It started saturday morning. Early in the morning I remote started it and let it warm up. Then I tried to put is 1st and it wouldnt go. 2nd also it wouldnt go in. I kept trying and finally it went in gear and I launched it a bit and heard a small sound i cant describe but it felt like something in the clutch did something. anyway it drove ok so I took it on the highway and drove all day listening. The sound never came back and all day long it was shifting just fine( actually the car drove a little different , but in a good way- i was thinking it finally noticed i put the Y-pipe on it!). Now, this morning I go out and the same thing happened like yesterday minus the noise i heard. So i finally get into 2nd gear and drove around my parking lot and parked. I think my clutch is about to die on me. Then i was thinking maybe it was the shifter bushing acting bad. Idk... any comments welcome
I just wish i could afford a new clutch and fidanza flywheel with new master and slave clutch thingamajigs.

 

Could be one of these things

Bad input shaft bearing(inside the transmission)

Or possibly one of the clutch springs has popped out causing binding when you push the clutch pedal in.

 

could also be a bad clutch master/slave cylinder..

 

check this first^^^

Does your pedal still push back at you? Is it letting out closer to the floor than usual?

 

does the clutch pedal feel normal?

any 'growling' from the tranny in lower gears, or is it completely silent (you shouldn't hear the tranny at all....)


I'm betting it's input shaft bushings. last time that happened to me, a chunk of the bearing was lodged in the shifter linkage inside the tranny...

bearing guts:
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/drivetra...y/IM001405.JPG


stuck in here:
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/drivetra...y/IM001411.JPG

it would occasionally keep me from going into 1/2... then it locked me out of 1/2 and 5/r... I'd stick it in 3rd and get the car rolling (and slosh oil around) and then I'd be able to go into 1st again. sounds like your problem as well.

 

^^^^^^
Same thing happened with both of my trannies...but i had major input shaft bearing noise prior to both of the failures..

 

i have had that happen with one of my old hondas and it turned out there was like ZERO trans fluid in it, i filled her up with fully synthetic royal purple and not only did she slide right back into gear but it improved shifting, but that was a civic so i'm thinking that these dudes above me are probably correct but its worth a shot, double check the tranny fluid, sometimes you get lucky with stupid fix's like that

 

Ok thx for the replies. Ok so yes the clutch pedal feels the same as before, there is no growling or any other noise except clutch chatter which i always had when the clutch is fully released. Im going to try again later on.

 

the clutch shouldn't make any noise- especially when fully released. sure you're not mistaking bearing noise for clutch chatter?

 

no I'm not sure about that, what bearing?

 

any bearing, but specifically the ips bearing.

 

i have mine in the shop rght now, it's wining and grinding in 1st and second and when the clutch is NOT engauge it sounds like the throwout bearing is spinning, even though i think it's the opposite... slips out of gear at high rpms in all gears... i LOVE having a 5speed but you tend to dog it more... =( Any good suggestions/prices for clutches?

 

Ebay has the best prices on fidanza and clutch combo atm.

 

My 91SE 5 spd. is making a making a noise in 4th and 5th gear [loudest in 5th] it is louder on cold mornings [teens here in the northeast recentley] and less noticable when its warmer [65 here yesterday].Putting in first gear seems to be a bit harder when cold but otherwise fairly normal. Trans fluid was changed about a month ago an it seemed to be a little less noisy.If I am driving in 5th and put in neutral it goes away. Pressure on the shifter to the right or left in neutral will bring the noise back but not as loud.Is my tranny on its way out?...or could it just be an ISB? I am the original owner and its been well maintained with 115K mi.

 

1. check fluid level. might be low.
2. what kind of fluid? might be crap.

check that, answer back.

 

Spoke to shop that changed the tranny fluid, they used a standard 80w-90 Kendal gear oil, level is good. Im thinking that I should drain it and put in Redline MT-90 and see if it is better.

 

Fluid changed to MT-90, noise is about the same I hear it in 4th and loudest in 5th but not at all in 1,2,3 gears...could it be the shifter bushing?

 

IT's not the shifter bushing. I highly doubt it anyway. I'd bet it's more internal to the tranny.

 

Thanks for your reply...I was afraid it might be.At this point the noise is not too loud and is noticeable only with the windows closed and the radio off. I think I will just monitor it an hope it doesn't get worse.

 

THAT is exactly what's happening to me. Clutch goes all the way in. NO pressure. Fluid level was low - I refilled..tried to bleed but I seem to be leaking elsewhere - still couldnt get much pressure back to clutch pedal. I just lightly pressure washed everything to see if I can find leak. At almost 169K, should I just replace master/slave? Car is undriveable - only goes into gear when engine off and w/ no clutch..kinda wants to lunge.

 

First thing to do is figure out which part is leaking- master, slave, or plumbing.

Look under the dashboard for a leaky master cylinder. they'll usually leak out the back and down the inside of the firewall.

If it's not that, then check the slave cylinder and plumbing. you can usually pop the hood and have someone watch while you pump the pedal. watch the slave cylinder and the hoses for juice squirting out somewhere.

Find the leak. replace that part.
But with 170k miles on your car and it being 12+ years old, it's very likely they're all on their way out. If you have the cash, it wouldn't hurt to just replace master, slave, and the flex line. (stainless or rubber, your choice). Just keep the old working parts as 'emergency spares' and chunk the broken bits.

 

Thanks. Good advice and pretty much what I'm doing. I couldnt narrow down the leak but am picking up a new master and slave. I'd really like to get a SS line but, will have to settle for a rubber one for now. Car is useless as is and I'm not confident I'll get it bled properly. Guy that's going to do it says he will bleed both clutch and brakes, flip out MY parts, for 2 bills. That's worth it, for me.

 

yeah, that's about 3 hrs of work. $200 is fair if you're taking it to a "real" mechanic.
Hell, it'd be worth $100 for someone else to change the master cylinder for me. Man that was a beyotch the first time I got under the dash!

 

i can change one in 10 minutes

course, having done the 5spd swap instead of buying an already-5spd car means i have a more intimate understanding of the installation/removal/existence of parts that most people haven't had to touch at all. if you ever need a new master cylinder put i'll be glad to make $100

 

i had this exact problem about 5 months ago... it drove fine the only thing i found weird was a noise kind of a clicking rubbing sound coming from the engine bay but only when i let the clutch out. Then one day 1st and 2nd gear went out.....I could only take off in 3rd gear thus burnign up my clutch...I found a used 5-speed tranny at a local junk yard for $450 and a new clutch from napa for $165 and the problem was fixed...Easy to do also if u are doing it ur self....

 

o and by the way a slave cylinder or master cylinder are very easy to change and on a vg maxima they are both easily accessible and would take only a matter of minutes to change. Just remember with changing the slave cylinder dont let the push rod over extend when it is released from the t.o.b fork.

 

I have to bump this because I'm having the same problem. On the way to work this morning I lost 1st & 2nd gears. The serious downside is I *just* got the car back last week from having a mechanic replace my ipsb and clutch - while they were in there they also resurfaced the flywheel and bled the slave cyl. The guy who worked on the trans said the gears and synchros looked flawless, the master & slave cyl's were working properly (replaced just a few years ago by the p/o), so I assume no trouble there. Given that the clutch and ipsb were just replaced a few days ago, do you guys have any idea what the heck could cause this? I'd like to have an idea before I take the car back and have this guy crack the tranny open again (on his dime, of course).

 

How's the clutch fluid level? Was the shift boot oil changed/cleaned?

 

so can you get into the left side of Neutral and then just not engage 1 or 2, or are you locked out of moving the shifter to the left at all? also can you ever get the gears to engage, when the car is stopped, or at any speeds? when you try to engage those gears does it grind? or just puts up resistance that you can't push through?

shift boot oil??????? pics or it doesn't exist

 

Nah, it's clean. I replace it with fresh Armor All every two weeks or 1000 miles

No problem getting left of neutral, it's just engaging 1 & 2... rather, it's not engaging. I tried engaging with the motor off, with the motor running & the vehicle at a stand still, as well as with the engine running and the car rolling at <15 mph, but nothing happens, just completely locked out. I also haven't heard any grind to speak of.

One thing I did notice this afternoon before the rollback came to take the car back to the shop was that there was occasional difficulty putting it in reverse. With the engine off & sitting still, I would shift 3-4-5 then try to shift in reverse, but the shifter would slide back in to 4th, almost as if it were hitting something. I would throw it back in third then immediately to reverse and it would engage without a problem. I'm beginning to wonder if there might be a loose shim in there somewhere.

 

You have a failed Input shaft bearing not allowing 1st and 2nd gear to engage... i had the same exact problem but atleast i swapped my clutch After tranny swap instead of Before but anyways, you could probibly get arebuild kit for liek 150-200 bucks but i would advise you to get another tranny because you are only going to want to do this once..... our transmissions are SOOOOOOO Heavy lol the case is practically bullet proof... you might get lucky and find one at one of your local JY's........and as for the problem getting into reverse... i think this is a common issue with our transmissions.. i have trouble getting it into reverse almost everytime i go to engage but i just pull the clutch and give it a bit of gas and then try again and it usually goes in

 

i'd be surprised for it to be the ISB.... he said he JUST got the car back from having it replaced! >j00

 

Eh, like Caped said (and I said before him) the ISB was just replaced, maybe has 200 mi on it tops...if it went out again I'ma straight cut somebody.

Thanks for the input though - you nailed the original problem and I do appreciate the effort. Now I'm curious about what's causing the new set of problems.

 

well how many bearings were replaced in total? just the one by the bellhousing or the other one on the other end of the shaft also?

 

What I paid to have done and what the receipt shows is a full replacement for all input shaft and throw out bearings. It doesn't give a total count though so i can't say for certain.

 

did they actually re-shim it or did they just put everything back together? if the new and old bearings had very different tolerances i suppose that improper re-shimming could have worn out the new ISB at a really fast pace from having too-much or not-enough preload on it.

 

I still definitly believe your problem is in the transmission, and i still think you have a faulty ISB..... none the less get a transmission that you know works and put it in there it saves alot of time and work...

 

That, sir, is a very good question! They did have a problem with a shim slipping after they put everything back together & it was causing 1st & R to lock out. The mech opened the tranny back up and fixed the problem, but now I really wonder how much of a 'fix' it was! I'll pose this question when the garage opens tomorrow.

LOL if you nailed it I owe you a brew

 

come to Maxus with Choray (also in the Nooga) and i might take you up on that

the only other thing i can think of that would prevent you from getting into an entire gate, is the interlock checkballs that you access from inside the tranny, that prevent more than one shaft from engaging at a time. but somehow if yours were installed wrong, or otherwise misaligned, it might prevent that entire shift rod/fork from moving.

 

Yes You should always double check your Check *****...