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stock 1992 ve highschool kid build thread..follow me from the start, (pictures)

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Old 03-16-2009, 06:10 PM
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stock 1992 ve highschool kid build thread..follow me from the start, (pictures)

3/13 start



ok where to start. i will always update this thread so keep checking in. Im setting this up like its march 13th, the friday before the weekend. its now the 16th and much has happened but you will just have to keep following. i got this 1992 black se last summer and this summer before college im putting a little money into it. please give me your input and ideas on what to do.

The bad:

little rust
whole exhaust
suspension
window regulators
hood dent
224,000 miles

Mods that will happen soon (all of these are in the mail now, or im picking up)

17 inch adr rims with tires
warpspeed y pipe
kyb gr2 struts
1.7 inch drop springs/ greenys
window regulator
hood bra
new cold air intake
advanced timing (dont worry i already run 93 octane)

mods that will happen within a little time.

patched or replaced exhaust manifold/new studs
replaced mid pipe 2.25
5.5 gen muffler

Mods that will happen in future((maybe))
exedy clutch
fidanza flywheel
or maybe ill just do a 3.5 swap
rust removal

pics 3/15












Last edited by makowski; 03-16-2009 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:13 PM
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UPDATE 3/15

I just picked up the rims and installed them. You almost see in the pics what they look like. Those pics were taken on sunday but lets just say they were taken on friday. I will get pics up soon, the reason i dont have pics is because, well just read the next update. also the window regulator is in and the bra too.



Last edited by makowski; 03-16-2009 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:19 PM
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Don't do kyb struts with the B&G's dude...tokico struts at least, koni preferred..
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:19 PM
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Update 3/16

on my way to work i hit a bump and felt a wobble, the rims have been driven on for about 15 miles and i notice they vibrate...great they are bent a little and now i need to fix them. so i go to slow down and crash i hit the ground and watch my left front tire roll into the dominoes parking lot...so much for work. i laugh and look around. 3 of these tuner kids walk over and help me out, they were nice. then a cop comes great..to make it short now i have an accident on my record because the cop said i garuntee there is over 1000 in damage all i need is a rotor and quarterpanel. do you think thats over 1000? i dont but whatever i drive accross the street to local shop and they said they would do it all, balance tires, rotor, align, and fix any suspension problems. ill get pics tomorrow and show you guys the damage, and new rims.

Last edited by makowski; 03-16-2009 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:21 PM
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thats what i thought and was doing, but then 2 of my friends said they had tokico blues and theres blew within a few weeks. also they said they switched to kyb the other to something else but still. they said they know others too who have had problems with tokico. but remember im in highschool everything else was too much money.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:25 PM
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Oh dear!! holy crap dude, did you tighten the lug nuts down??
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
thats what i thought and was doing, but then 2 of my friends said they had tokico blues and theres blew within a few weeks. also they said they switched to kyb the other to something else but still. they said they know others too who have had problems with tokico. but remember im in highschool everything else was too much money.
Umm.. no tokico>kyb any day of the week...i ran toks with my B&G's for 2 years, the struts still had plenty of rebound/resistance when i removed them for re-sale..

BTW, Tokico made the OEM struts on our cars, so yeah they know what they are doing..

Last edited by Greeny; 03-16-2009 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:02 PM
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eyy well ive heard good about them so w/e. they are already being shipped.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Oh dear!! holy crap dude, did you tighten the lug nuts down??
????
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:34 PM
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yes, but i think they vibrated loose because they were just barely bent a little. even the kids said that and mechanic. but whatever i needed new suspension parts anyway. but not a quarter panel.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:36 PM
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
eyy well ive heard good about them so w/e. they are already being shipped.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
ok where to start. i will always update this thread so keep checking in. Im setting this up like its march 13th, the friday before the weekend. its now the 16th and much has happened but you will just have to keep following. i got this 1992 black se last summer and this summer before college im putting a little money into it. please give me your input and ideas on what to do.

The bad:

little rust
whole exhaust
suspension
window regulators
hood dent
224,000 miles

Mods that will happen soon (all of these are in the mail now, or im picking up)

17 inch adr rims with tires
warpspeed y pipe
kyb gr2 struts
1.7 inch drop springs/ greenys
window regulator
hood bra
cold air intake

mods that will happen within a little time.

patched or replaced exhaust manifold/new studs
replaced mid pipe 2.25
5.5 gen muffler

Mods that will happen in future((maybe))
exedy clutch
fidanza flywheel
or maybe ill just do a 3.5 swap
rust removal
welcome to the org lets hope u maintain this build thread unlike so many others.....

as for input:

1.if one regulators bad unless they were replaced all of them are soon to go (my 3rd just popped last night)

2.if ur getting the struts and springs u might wana consider a lower tie bar, sway bar and rstb for improved suspension(blehmco.com)....by the way thats the first bad word ive ever heard about tokico (other than koni's are better) everyone loves them here

3.if u got exhaust problems its most likely a broken stud get those replace with z31 turbo studs also a common problem is that ur flex section is prolly rotted out

4.if u want a true CAI u will have to cut off a chunk of your fender and u might have problems with a DD with rainwater flooding your intake u prolly wont have any problem with it but the minimal gains IMHO arent worth it stick with the pop charger u got atleast for awhile

5. if u get a y pipe go with warpspeed but unless ur really looking for a specific kinda sound i would just get their whole kit for example u say u want a 2.25" mid pipe idk why u picked that size but the y-pipe is 2.5" mandrel bent to the mm that might cause some problems

6. take a chance right now to clean the MAF TB and intake manifold, drain ur power steering that might help ur pump last a lil longer.........and start learning what the word VTC means

7.other than that if u have some noticeable rust.... give nissan a call u might get some free rustwork based on a safety recall..... but u might have to sell the car if the rust is already out of control


good luck and have fun!!!!!!
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:09 PM
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thanks man but ive been on this forum "silently" for a little while now. i know what vtcs are and i need them rebuilt...WHERE CAN I GET THE KIT???? ive looked everywhere with no luck, and i am getting the warpspeed y, you quoted it and ive read on here that 3 inch is way to big and even 2.5 so 2.25 should be good and others have agreed.
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:34 PM
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good luck man
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
thanks man but ive been on this forum "silently" for a little while now. i know what vtcs are and i need them rebuilt...WHERE CAN I GET THE KIT???? ive looked everywhere with no luck, and i am getting the warpspeed y, you quoted it and ive read on here that 3 inch is way to big and even 2.5 so 2.25 should be good and others have agreed.
yea ive read those threads too what they were talking about is the whole exhaust system though the wsp y-pipe is 2.5" some guys get 3" exhaust and without a turbo it actually drains power ive heard arguments that a 1 3/4" pipe would be best but what i was saying is that a perfectly even size all the way through the exhaust so a mismatched mid pipe might drain power as well

if u want 2.25" thats fine might actually be better then the 2.5 just make sure u get a y-pipe too match
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:14 PM
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i will follow the build good luck!
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:28 PM
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dude I dont know where you are (aside from WI plates) but I saw this car a couple of weeks if not days ago here in chicago...unless someone here has a black max with the same sawblades painted
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by makowski
thanks man but ive been on this forum "silently" for a little while now. i know what vtcs are and i need them rebuilt...WHERE CAN I GET THE KIT???? ive looked everywhere with no luck, and i am getting the warpspeed y, you quoted it and ive read on here that 3 inch is way to big and even 2.5 so 2.25 should be good and others have agreed.

this link is for the VTC rebuilt kit from nissan courtesy in texas...

CLICK

I got this link from a member on here. I would call Courtesy and double check. Or maybe someone here can confirm I have provided you the right info.
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:41 PM
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Update 3/17

im at a crossroads...its going to cost 700 from the shop to fix. control arm, control arm buhings, inner and outer cv boot, and joints. or i could sell the car, or part it out and buy a new car....i have 4 boxes of exhaust and suspesion parts ready to be put on but now im double thinking.
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:08 PM
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uh.... rebuilt axle(boots already installed): approx. $100
control arm (with bushings, they come installed): $60
DIY for FREE!: Priceless.
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Old 03-17-2009, 03:03 PM
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http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=508876
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Old 03-17-2009, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
uh.... rebuilt axle(boots already installed): approx. $100
control arm (with bushings, they come installed): $60
DIY for FREE!: Priceless.
brian sells NEW axles for cheaper than that
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...4_45_4870.html
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Old 03-17-2009, 04:40 PM
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well thanks guys...im thinking i want to do that but then again there is 224000 miles on it..
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Old 03-17-2009, 05:15 PM
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If you like the car. parts are cheap. and easy to replace if you know how to do it. an engine ain't much at a yard. I got a brand new transmission for 700$ to my door, these cars are great, just the V6 kinda blows on the mpg, but it's fun for revving around town.
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Old 03-17-2009, 05:51 PM
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good news...while looking for a new car i came across a black 1992 maxima se. amazing...now i can use all the parts, and he is asking 1800 but said he would go lower. so now sunday im taking a ride down there to give it a look.
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:47 PM
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kool....
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:17 PM
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You're buying a new car because you won't replace the axles / control arms on your current one?



You're in for a big suprise later down the road man.

EDIT: unless the car was in an accident, you shouldn't need to replace the arms unless they're dinged to ****. just replace bushings.

PLEASE Don't spend 1800$ on a car that you don't need (unless you really want to) Your mechanic is more than likely taking you for a ride. as I could get axles and control arms changed at a maximum of 500$ here. going to a mid price shop

Double EDIT: read about said accident, sorry man. but still, that mechanic is reaming you for just axles and arms

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Old 03-18-2009, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
Update 3/17

im at a crossroads...its going to cost 700 from the shop to fix. control arm, control arm buhings, inner and outer cv boot, and joints. or i could sell the car, or part it out and buy a new car....i have 4 boxes of exhaust and suspesion parts ready to be put on but now im double thinking.
where are you in wisconsin?
I may be able to find someplace to do it more economically, or bring it down to chicago I know it will be done cheaper.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:19 PM
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if everything else mechanically seems ok, I would just buy the axles from Brian(internetautomart) And new control arms, not sure what brian is able to sell them for, but I found front and left with new bushings and new ball join for $99 shipped.

If you do the work yourself, you should be able to get 2 new control arms, and 2 new axles for around $300. Can buy the parts and if you cant do the work, see if a shop will with yourparts and then youd probably end up paying $200 or so(just a guesstimate) for the labor. So Like what Mystikal was saying, all that should only be about $500.


But 224k can be alot of miles if the car wasn't maintained well, you could be looking at more stuff in the future. So as for selling and buying a different one I guess all depends on what you want to do and the overall condition of what you have now.

EDIT: lookin at the picture and what you listed wrong, only thing I would be worried about is the rust. where is it and how bad.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:23 PM
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alright here is the what would be billif i went through this shop (its a cheap shop)

rack and pinion 426
misc 25
labor 336

right front control arm 141
right front axle shaft 104
labor 210

left front axle shaft 104
labor 151

but 1800 for another 92, and the guy said he would do 1500. its a texas car with a jdm ve with 40,000. what do you guys think, and its one of those things where i know more will go wrong with my 92, its just a matter of time, you can just tell 224000 miles.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:26 PM
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hold on im getting pics now...
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
alright here is the what would be billif i went through this shop (its a cheap shop)

rack and pinion 426
misc 25
labor 336

right front control arm 141
right front axle shaft 104
labor 210

left front axle shaft 104
labor 151

but 1800 for another 92, and the guy said he would do 1500. its a texas car with a jdm ve with 40,000. what do you guys think, and its one of those things where i know more will go wrong with my 92, its just a matter of time, you can just tell 224000 miles.
how is the body, and most of all does he have the paper to go with th "JDM" engine. dont get excited by JDM, correct me if im wrong but the same motor.

anway, 15 for 92 se is not bad, could be lower. just make sure he did the usual work, water pump, belts tune ups. check the LCA bushings, and get the abstract on the VIN. it give you bargaining power.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:39 PM
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jdm meaning it came from japan...japaneese domestic market. things are differnt over there, thats why the honda lovers all want jdm parts cuz there different and unique and most of the time better
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:53 PM
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:54 PM
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i know you cant tell anything from these pics but i took them so ill put them up...i know its pointless.




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Old 03-18-2009, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
jdm meaning it came from japan...japaneese domestic market. things are differnt over there, thats why the honda lovers all want jdm parts cuz there different and unique and most of the time better
Well the hype over JDM is just that Hype, yes some engine there are made to a different quality but not all and i have never seen anyone push a JDM VG VE any hard than a domestic. i have bodies in the import crowd that have build high out put motors with both JDM and domestic, they tell me the same thing, it just a few shiny letters.

anyway so long as the guy has documentation on the motor and isnt blowing it up you a**, you should be fine. receipts are gold!
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
jdm meaning it came from japan...japaneese domestic market. things are differnt over there, thats why the honda lovers all want jdm parts cuz there different and unique and most of the time better
true but if i remember correctly there really isn't much difference on the JDM VE and the USDM VE (but don't quote me on this). i know Jeffy did this to his old SE but can't recall if he noticed much of a difference. remember this cars aren't HONDA'S. as for the bill that you posted with the quotes; just the rack and pinion is way too much. i paid $225 for a reman. and installed. then about 1 year later i replaced it again cuz it was leaking again but this time i paid $125 for another reman. and installed it myself which wasn't hard at all and it was my first time doing this. lower control arms are even easier to replace along with the axles. you could save so much money on this car and be able to buy more mods for it. if you want to save money, buy an FSM and learn how to work on your car, thats the only way you will learn and know just about anything on the 3rd gens. many have helped me on here with similar problems and to this day im still not done with it, but you know what, i have saved so much thanks to the members in here. and they all know who they are.
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:08 PM
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yes....alright guys i think you dont understand what im saying....this is what the shop told me, there is no way i would have the shop do it, i would, its just why spend the money when something else is bound to go wrong. also i never said its got a jdm omgodzzzzzzzzzzzzz no, i only said that because i figured most would say yea right theres no way theres only 40000 original miles, so i said it was an imported jdm motor.
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by makowski
yes....alright guys i think you dont understand what im saying....this is what the shop told me, there is no way i would have the shop do it, i would, its just why spend the money when something else is bound to go wrong. also i never said its got a jdm omgodzzzzzzzzzzzzz no, i only said that because i figured most would say yea right theres no way theres only 40000 original miles, so i said it was an imported jdm motor.
40k is kinda hard to believe on these 3rd gens. original motor i don't know about that either but if the motor was rebuilt then its not original anymore. or they might have rolled back the mileage but these are just things to think about on these cars. oh and you did say it has a jdm motor just to correct you on that one.

alright here is the what would be billif i went through this shop (its a cheap shop)

rack and pinion 426
misc 25
labor 336

right front control arm 141
right front axle shaft 104
labor 210

left front axle shaft 104
labor 151

but 1800 for another 92, and the guy said he would do 1500. its a texas car with a jdm ve with 40,000. what do you guys think, and its one of those things where i know more will go wrong with my 92, its just a matter of time, you can just tell 224000 miles.
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