Don't Know How You Guys Got Those Clips Off
04-08-2009, 09:13 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Don't Know How You Guys Got Those Clips Off
Man, I had the worst time removing those plastic clips from within the trunk, that hold the back part of the back seat (3 along the top). I got so fed up after trying to pry them off, I literally took a torch to them and melted them off.
Access was hard, I had to climb into the trunk.
By the way, there's loctite on those OEM strut mount nuts (3) near the speaker grills. Do you have to torch them first, or is it a risk trying to do it with a flex bar, as in they could snap the studs (without torching them). There are a ton of wires near by.
Access was hard, I had to climb into the trunk.
By the way, there's loctite on those OEM strut mount nuts (3) near the speaker grills. Do you have to torch them first, or is it a risk trying to do it with a flex bar, as in they could snap the studs (without torching them). There are a ton of wires near by.
04-08-2009, 09:18 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 252
Man, I had the worst time removing those plastic clips from within the trunk, that hold the back part of the back seat (3 along the top). I got so fed up after trying to pry them off, I literally took a torch to them and melted them off.
Access was hard, I had to climb into the trunk.
By the way, there's loctite on those OEM strut mount nuts (3) near the speaker grills. Do you have to torch them first, or is it a risk trying to do it with a flex bar, as in they could snap the studs (without torching them). There are a ton of wires near by.
Access was hard, I had to climb into the trunk.
By the way, there's loctite on those OEM strut mount nuts (3) near the speaker grills. Do you have to torch them first, or is it a risk trying to do it with a flex bar, as in they could snap the studs (without torching them). There are a ton of wires near by.
04-08-2009, 09:20 PM
#3
wait, what?
you mean the cups for the... whachumacallits, prongs?.... along the top of the back seat? you shouldn't have needed to touch those. the seat needs to be lifted up from the inside, after it gets unbolted. a little difficult to do the first one or two times, but its doable.
I would use an impact wrench on those bolts. loctite, or no, they should still be able to break loss, unless whoever put it on was a moron, and used the wrong stuff.
you mean the cups for the... whachumacallits, prongs?.... along the top of the back seat? you shouldn't have needed to touch those. the seat needs to be lifted up from the inside, after it gets unbolted. a little difficult to do the first one or two times, but its doable.
I would use an impact wrench on those bolts. loctite, or no, they should still be able to break loss, unless whoever put it on was a moron, and used the wrong stuff.
04-09-2009, 12:37 AM
#4
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Are they cups? They were the same rectanglish plastic things that were on the bottom seat, but I tried what you said from Walt's (Wikings) photos, I got to the part when you unbolt the two screws at the bottom, and the 2 behind the little divider pad thing in the middle that comes down. It wouldn't move upwards no matter how I tried. The design of these clips are, they had 2 tab type things on the sides that I think you pry with screwdrivers, but it was so tight in the trunk I couldn't do it - got fed up and burned them up. I don't think they are the original ones - but who knows - a mechanic did my fuel pump 2 yrs ago and I noticed the clips looked different after I got them back.
Re: Torch - that's a common way to remove certain loctite's - you have to heat it up with a torch.
I notice something odd - my car doesn't have those twin load sensing valve things in the back - even though it is ABS in the front.
Re: Torch - that's a common way to remove certain loctite's - you have to heat it up with a torch.
I notice something odd - my car doesn't have those twin load sensing valve things in the back - even though it is ABS in the front.
04-09-2009, 12:45 AM
#5
Are they cups? They were the same rectanglish plastic things that were on the bottom seat, but I tried what you said from Walt's (Wikings) photos, I got to the part when you unbolt the two screws at the bottom, and the 2 behind the little divider pad thing in the middle that comes down. It wouldn't move upwards no matter how I tried. The design of these clips are, they had 2 tab type things on the sides that I think you pry with screwdrivers, but it was so tight in the trunk I couldn't do it - got fed up and burned them up. I don't think they are the original ones - but who knows - a mechanic did my fuel pump 2 yrs ago and I noticed the clips looked different after I got them back.
Re: Torch - that's a common way to remove certain loctite's - you have to heat it up with a torch.
I notice something odd - my car doesn't have those twin load sensing valve things in the back - even though it is ABS in the front.
Re: Torch - that's a common way to remove certain loctite's - you have to heat it up with a torch.
I notice something odd - my car doesn't have those twin load sensing valve things in the back - even though it is ABS in the front.
as for the LSVs... not all ABS cars had them... i think maybe just VEs did or something. just a guess tho.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 04-09-2009 at 12:51 AM.
04-09-2009, 01:43 AM
#6
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Caped - I found something strange - I think my GXE has the VLSD thing. If you rotate one wheel the other one goes in other direction right? I hope though I got the right axle then, the part no. didn't specify VLSD or not. From what FAST told me, there were 2 axles, ABS or non-ABS...but then I was reading on Walt's page that there were other flavors....ie VLSD or non.
I did check with my specific VIN# in FAST - so does this mean the 93 GXE only came VLSD?
I did check with my specific VIN# in FAST - so does this mean the 93 GXE only came VLSD?
04-09-2009, 07:53 AM
#8
Wow. you're making this job 10,000x harder than this needs to be.
grab the top of the back seat and pull.
stick a 14mm socket on the strut mount bolts and turn. they just unscrew.
There's no loctite on them from the factory. they use an all-metal locknut that always has a bit of tension on it so they don't rattle loose with time.
Using an impact on those will wear them out and cause galling on the threads of the strut mount. just use a 14mm deep socket or a short extension on a ratchet and you're done...
If you're having this much trouble with the inside, you're going to HATE working on the stuff under the car.....
grab the top of the back seat and pull.
stick a 14mm socket on the strut mount bolts and turn. they just unscrew.
There's no loctite on them from the factory. they use an all-metal locknut that always has a bit of tension on it so they don't rattle loose with time.
Using an impact on those will wear them out and cause galling on the threads of the strut mount. just use a 14mm deep socket or a short extension on a ratchet and you're done...
If you're having this much trouble with the inside, you're going to HATE working on the stuff under the car.....
04-09-2009, 08:45 AM
#9
Wow. you're making this job 10,000x harder than this needs to be.
grab the top of the back seat and pull.
stick a 14mm socket on the strut mount bolts and turn. they just unscrew.
There's no loctite on them from the factory. they use an all-metal locknut that always has a bit of tension on it so they don't rattle loose with time.
Using an impact on those will wear them out and cause galling on the threads of the strut mount. just use a 14mm deep socket or a short extension on a ratchet and you're done...
If you're having this much trouble with the inside, you're going to HATE working on the stuff under the car.....
grab the top of the back seat and pull.
stick a 14mm socket on the strut mount bolts and turn. they just unscrew.
There's no loctite on them from the factory. they use an all-metal locknut that always has a bit of tension on it so they don't rattle loose with time.
Using an impact on those will wear them out and cause galling on the threads of the strut mount. just use a 14mm deep socket or a short extension on a ratchet and you're done...
If you're having this much trouble with the inside, you're going to HATE working on the stuff under the car.....
04-09-2009, 01:47 PM
#10
Caped - I found something strange - I think my GXE has the VLSD thing. If you rotate one wheel the other one goes in other direction right? I hope though I got the right axle then, the part no. didn't specify VLSD or not. From what FAST told me, there were 2 axles, ABS or non-ABS...but then I was reading on Walt's page that there were other flavors....ie VLSD or non.
I did check with my specific VIN# in FAST - so does this mean the 93 GXE only came VLSD?
I did check with my specific VIN# in FAST - so does this mean the 93 GXE only came VLSD?
anyhow, vlsd makes them turn in the SAME direction. no such thing as a factory GXE with VLSD. Only way to get VLSD on a GXE is to do what I did - swap on a VE5 tranny. (or rewire some stuff*, get a quest flexplate, and put on a VE auto w/ axles and hubs)
* rather complicated
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 04-09-2009 at 01:50 PM.
04-09-2009, 02:04 PM
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Pheww....thanks for confirming non-vlsd....I was worried I ordered the wrong axle, then loss of money and time on shipping. I need to go to Lake Placid NOW. Working under the car is fine for me, it's working in the car that bugs me - like I would go nuts if I had to dismantle the dash - that would drive me insane.
Next - I need to buy the MIG setup, but one thing at a time. Put the new suspension in and the axle....do the injector....buy the MIG....patch the hole....remove the engine....repair the manifold....replace the seals..... the never ending story.
Next - I need to buy the MIG setup, but one thing at a time. Put the new suspension in and the axle....do the injector....buy the MIG....patch the hole....remove the engine....repair the manifold....replace the seals..... the never ending story.
04-09-2009, 02:10 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Wow. you're making this job 10,000x harder than this needs to be.
grab the top of the back seat and pull.
stick a 14mm socket on the strut mount bolts and turn. they just unscrew.
There's no loctite on them from the factory. they use an all-metal locknut that always has a bit of tension on it so they don't rattle loose with time.
Using an impact on those will wear them out and cause galling on the threads of the strut mount. just use a 14mm deep socket or a short extension on a ratchet and you're done...
If you're having this much trouble with the inside, you're going to HATE working on the stuff under the car.....
grab the top of the back seat and pull.
stick a 14mm socket on the strut mount bolts and turn. they just unscrew.
There's no loctite on them from the factory. they use an all-metal locknut that always has a bit of tension on it so they don't rattle loose with time.
Using an impact on those will wear them out and cause galling on the threads of the strut mount. just use a 14mm deep socket or a short extension on a ratchet and you're done...
If you're having this much trouble with the inside, you're going to HATE working on the stuff under the car.....
04-09-2009, 08:08 PM
#13
Don't even think you're going to be able to fix your rusted out POS with just a MIG.... you need to just dump that thing and buy another clean car.
They go for $500 around here with ZERO rust. it'll cost you that much to buy the welder.... then think of all the labor you have to put into it.. and you STILL have a rusted out hunk of crap.
STOP WORKING ON THAT POS!!!!!
They go for $500 around here with ZERO rust. it'll cost you that much to buy the welder.... then think of all the labor you have to put into it.. and you STILL have a rusted out hunk of crap.
STOP WORKING ON THAT POS!!!!!
04-09-2009, 09:42 PM
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Don't even think you're going to be able to fix your rusted out POS with just a MIG.... you need to just dump that thing and buy another clean car.
They go for $500 around here with ZERO rust. it'll cost you that much to buy the welder.... then think of all the labor you have to put into it.. and you STILL have a rusted out hunk of crap.
STOP WORKING ON THAT POS!!!!!
They go for $500 around here with ZERO rust. it'll cost you that much to buy the welder.... then think of all the labor you have to put into it.. and you STILL have a rusted out hunk of crap.
STOP WORKING ON THAT POS!!!!!
I hear you bud on replacing this GXE, probably in about 2 yrs I'll do it. Right now it's a self fulfilling prophecy...if I bought a new one I wouldn't be able to buy tons of tools...and now i've become a tool collector
Literally.For me it's simple economics. If the costs of the tools is less than the cost of the replacement car (which would need tools too eventually), then i'll go with the tools and the existing car for now. Sure there's labor and work too - so I should be factoring that in....but i'm sort of a different kind of lad....so the time and labor doesn't equate to dollars really....plus when you enjoy doing something it's not work.
Technically I'm sort of in the non-working class for now and the last 8 yrs, so I have alot of free time, it's not really labor then...just a hobby. I do appreciate your opinions though.
[Actually - wait, where are they 500 bucks? I looked on craigs list and they looked more like 1 grand US...then the flights for me to fly there. Maybe this summer I'll buy a 2nd one, then I can move my new parts into that? But for now i'm buying the MIG for the fun of it and playing around with it on this one.]
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 04-09-2009 at 09:46 PM.
04-10-2009, 12:26 AM
#16
Just had to cut off the parallel link bolts with a Walter zip wheel. Wouldn't come un-done with the air tools. Ooodles of work, i've got to admit - I love it though.
I hear you bud on replacing this GXE, probably in about 2 yrs I'll do it. Right now it's a self fulfilling prophecy...if I bought a new one I wouldn't be able to buy tons of tools...and now i've become a tool collector Literally.
For me it's simple economics. If the costs of the tools is less than the cost of the replacement car (which would need tools too eventually), then i'll go with the tools and the existing car for now. Sure there's labor and work too - so I should be factoring that in....but i'm sort of a different kind of lad....so the time and labor doesn't equate to dollars really....plus when you enjoy doing something it's not work.
Technically I'm sort of in the non-working class for now and the last 8 yrs, so I have alot of free time, it's not really labor then...just a hobby. I do appreciate your opinions though.
[Actually - wait, where are they 500 bucks? I looked on craigs list and they looked more like 1 grand US...then the flights for me to fly there. Maybe this summer I'll buy a 2nd one, then I can move my new parts into that? But for now i'm buying the MIG for the fun of it and playing around with it on this one.]
I hear you bud on replacing this GXE, probably in about 2 yrs I'll do it. Right now it's a self fulfilling prophecy...if I bought a new one I wouldn't be able to buy tons of tools...and now i've become a tool collector
Literally.For me it's simple economics. If the costs of the tools is less than the cost of the replacement car (which would need tools too eventually), then i'll go with the tools and the existing car for now. Sure there's labor and work too - so I should be factoring that in....but i'm sort of a different kind of lad....so the time and labor doesn't equate to dollars really....plus when you enjoy doing something it's not work.
Technically I'm sort of in the non-working class for now and the last 8 yrs, so I have alot of free time, it's not really labor then...just a hobby. I do appreciate your opinions though.
[Actually - wait, where are they 500 bucks? I looked on craigs list and they looked more like 1 grand US...then the flights for me to fly there. Maybe this summer I'll buy a 2nd one, then I can move my new parts into that? But for now i'm buying the MIG for the fun of it and playing around with it on this one.]
04-11-2009, 01:59 AM
#17
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Hey bud. No worries, nothing will snap - that's why EVERYTHING is getting replaced down below. Now a hole in the wheel well, won't cause a car to veer across the road, for your info.
Honestly though, pretty much anyone in the 3rd gen forum that lives from NYC or north would have simlar conditions - so it's not to big of a deal....of all the hundreds, we haven't heard of any veering off the road so far right? In actual fact, because I'm such a perfectionist....and actually repair things - my car is the least likely to snap and veer as opposed to many older cars on the road.
Today my progress was good - I cut off the other parallel link bolt with the air grinder...it took REALLY long - and finally got down to the spindle. I torched everything to death - if it weren't for the impact wrench I would have been there all day. I couldn't figure out how to separate the ABS Sensor Gusset from the Adapter Plate....so I just disconnected the wires and pulled them out.
Tommorow more progress. These Parallel Link bolts are hard to get....pretty long, so the car will be down for a week or maybe 2. It will take that long to order them.
Honestly though, pretty much anyone in the 3rd gen forum that lives from NYC or north would have simlar conditions - so it's not to big of a deal....of all the hundreds, we haven't heard of any veering off the road so far right? In actual fact, because I'm such a perfectionist....and actually repair things - my car is the least likely to snap and veer as opposed to many older cars on the road.
Today my progress was good - I cut off the other parallel link bolt with the air grinder...it took REALLY long - and finally got down to the spindle. I torched everything to death - if it weren't for the impact wrench I would have been there all day. I couldn't figure out how to separate the ABS Sensor Gusset from the Adapter Plate....so I just disconnected the wires and pulled them out.
Tommorow more progress. These Parallel Link bolts are hard to get....pretty long, so the car will be down for a week or maybe 2. It will take that long to order them.
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 04-11-2009 at 02:06 AM.
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