Over the weekend I replaced the calipers, rotors and Pads on ONLY BOTH REAR sides of the car. After doing this, I bleed all the brakes.

My car has since been pulling to the left side as I drive. In order to test if my brakes are locking up. I pulled the left side of my car up on a Jack and it seems like my Front Left wheel is pretty hard to rotate compared to my rear tire. Could this be the Culprit? Or do you think I need to get a wheel alignment done?

Note: Could having my entire Car on Jack stands for 48 hours cause my wheels to un-align?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Sounds like you might have a seized L/F caliper or even more likely the slide pins on the front left caliper are seized.

Having the car on jack stands will not effect alignment. you may also have worn control arm bushings in addition to a seized caliper/slide pins compounding the pulling to one side issue.

 

So I take it that the vehicle was not doing this before your rear brake maintenance? .................. if so go find what you screwed-up at the rear surely?

Replacing rear calipers eh - why?

 

Seized Pin was in the rear caliper. But as I said, I jacked my car up today and it seems like the rear wheels are turning nicely.

Just seems like my fronts are harder to move than the rear.

BUT** I took my car to a mechanic like 2 weeks ago to inspect my brakes. After his inspection he told me that I needed rotors, calipers and pads on BOTH sides for rear (WHICH HE LIED about: as I learned about when I did these repairs myself)

After he told me this, he said that my FRONT caliper was slidding/dirty and wanted $90 to clean the dirt up causing pre-mature wear.

If this guy was evil. What could he have done to my front Left caliper to mess it up?

What front left caliper problems could I be looking at?

 

bring it to me.. i will charge you half that to "clean out" your calipers

 

just making sure you're aware that your car is FWD........


ie, front wheels are connected to the tranny. rear one's aren't. so front ones have to spin the differential or the opposite side wheel... rear ones just spin.

always compare left vs right. comparing front vs rear is just a waste of your time.

 

i have the same problem but im guessing its just bad tires that got it pulling to the left or causes the wheel to shake during take off

 

did you rotate the tires to see if it changed the symptoms yet? mine shake a little bit, because the tire shop didn't balance these as well as they did my previous set... my 300c rims were IMPERCEIVABLY smooth on the highway, but not my 5th gen wheels. Rotated them and nothing changed, so i guess i'm stuck with it until i feel like shelling out some money for rebalancing.

 

Now that I think about it. I actually did a tire rotation when I replaced my calipers. BUT I only did (fronts to backs) and (backs to fronts). I just discovered that I may have done this wrong. I guess I need to cross them too. So front-left to Rear-Right and so on..

Apparently, this is because in Canada (not to mention many other places) we make many more right turns than left.



Thanks, and hopefully this is the problem!

 

meh, i did mine front to back, cuz my tires are directional.

 

It was because my driver side wheel has a knot in it and when then went to change it they found out that the wheel has a lock on them which i knew nothing about now i have to either find the key or just strip it and buy a new set. the tires on there are 195*60*15 is that a good size or the stock size wheel that should be on there?

 

Could someone please clarify.. how do you get a knot in the tire?

 

It's technically called a bulge..

 

jesus!!! 195/60/15 is tiny (24.2" OD)! stock size is 205/65/15 (or any other 25.5" OD size.. like 225/60/15 is good too if your wheels are wide enough... stock SE wheels should be OK for those, but GXE is a bit narrower than i'd put 225's on)

 

actually it's a busted cord that causes the bulge.
Separated cords cause shaking.

 

looks like that person's been riding with that tire near-flat for a long time too... look at all that scuffing. figure that had something to do with weakening the cord since tires are not designed to run on the sidewalls like that?

 

yep, it was ran mostly flat for a good while..

 

I took my car to a Tyre shop and apparently I'm 2 grades below what I need. I'm at 'grade S' when I need 'grade H'.. do you guys follow this system? They guy wants me to pay $400 to get all my tyres up to standard. But I'm holding back for now.

I also brought up the issue with my car pulling to the left. He said that my suspension could be un-even and that if he did a wheel alignment it would be pointless if this were the case.

But I know for sure its not my brakes.

 

mines is pulling to the left on my car right now...went thru and had alignment done before i found out my symptom and as soon as alignment was done...ill be da**ed car started pulling again...come to find out my rack and pinion was leaking for one and somewhere in there i think i might have something loose from when motor swap was done...dont remember why or wut tho...mechanics told me almost $1000 to fix my rack and pinion...i laughed at him while walkin out lol

 

Find another alignment shop - the guys are jerking your chain thats all.

Tyre grade has no bearing on straight line stability or "allignability" of the vehicle at all.

Well - your friendly fucxers certainly how to blow smoke up their customer's asses. If your suspension "could be uneven" what the hell did they do the alignment for in the first place. Get somebody that knows what they are doing and talking about - if they stick their tools on your vehicle they will immediately be able to tell you that your "suspension is uneven" and that an alignment is not possible

"suspension could be uneven" ................ now I have certainly heard it all.

 

those are speed ratings. you are supposed to have H rated tires on the car. I know the better tire shops here won't sell you a lower rated tire (legal liability)
Not sure what he meant by uneven. it can mean lots of things, some an issue, some not.

 

What a joke - these guys are classic. I don't know if it's that all shops are scrambling right now to make gains wherever they can....or they have skyrocketing overhead so whoever walks in the door is a potential target...but here's a funny one for you.

I went to a pretty well known med size chain shop, and he said to do the suspension I would HAVE to replace both the control arms at the same time...if wanting to do the struts. The bill for just the front would be about $1000.00 or more. (I find their markup on parts these days is 100-130% over online prices)

I had all the parts at home ready to do myself, but sometimes I like to drive to shops out of curiosity just to see what they would charge.

 

I called it a knot but yeah the pic shows what i was talking about i have one in the middle of the tire and yeah I have 195/60/15's on there they came on it so i just replaced them with the same size. im about to get some aftermarket wheels anyhow so ill keep them on until then and i couldnt get my hands on the SE-R wheels the guy didnt wanna let them go but ill come across something soon thanks for the advice

 

my accord is running 195/60/15s
S13 wheels and tires yo. (yah, rly)