Good find, I'll check it out. And good find too on the fuel pipe tool. I'm pretty sure I'll order it from the US and just pay for the shipping. Can't find that tool around here.

 

if you get a new/rebuilt a/t then it'll have a rev sensor on it.

 

doesnt the self diagnosis start with a long start signal this may be mistaken for the rev sensor so yours is prob ok
it should go ,start signal then 10 "judgement flickers" if all 10 the same
duration then ok if any are longer duration that number relates to the diagnosis chart,
the 3rd gen has these self diagnostic features for= engine(5 different modes) ,trans,abs,airbag,some sensors,digi climate and digi gauges if equipped
3rd gens dont really need them though because ive only seen codes like twice
in 9 years although to say the least ecu mode 4 helps adjust tps sensors,and modes 1+2
can tell you if your running rich or lean and if your o2 sensor works and mode 5
can help find intermittent problems while running
I have to read the fsm page like 4 times to make sure im not missing something
sometimes its over explained or doesnt make sense till i re read and apply it

 

new question about the re4f02a tranny. sorry for hijacking the thread. i dont have the privilege to post.

my trans is jerky and slippy between 1-2 gear. i have not gone through all the test sequences from the factory service manual yet. but it feels like to be a solenoid problem.

looking from outside, the oil pan is on top of the transmission. i am wondering if it is possible to check and replace the solenoids without take the transmission off the engine. please share your experience on this. really appreciate.

i have kept this car for 12 years, replaced fuel injectors, timing belt(s), axles, etc. i hate to let her go.

 

it might just be solenoids meaning your valve body which obviously sits under the oil pan that you are talking about. once you remove that pan from above the valve body is right on top and can be easily taken out. damn, now that all you guys are having trouble with your auto trannies i recently threw out a good valve body when my car was an auto. i would have sold it to you one of you for like $100 since it was a rebuilt unit. oh well.

 

thanks very much for replying. it really encouraged me. i wish i could buy your vb too.

i went through the electronic sequence. no problem was found. so i went ahead taking the valve assembly body out. indeed, it has some metal powder residue sticking on the solenoids and the valve body. by measuring the resistance of each solenoid i dont see any thing wrong with them.

reading through others post, i saw some people fixed the problem by replacing it anyway.


I am wondering if i can apply the battery voltage to test them.
also is it possible just clean the vb from outside (i dont have the rebuild kit) clean and re-seat the solenoids to get the whole thing work?

thank you!

 

could it be the metal powder? is it making a path around any exposed electrical stuff? gumming up anyting?and wheres it from? i havent ever seen the insides of vg autos
ive only swapped the autos i do have a ve 5-speed opened up tho

 

im not sure about applying battery voltage to the solenoids??? have you tried searching for a rebuilt VB unit? look into that. like i said when my car was an auto and i needed a rebuilt VB, i paid about $100 for it and just swapped it out with the old one.

 

if it only slips on 1-2 and not anything else i doubt it's your VB. your 1-2 shifts are used most often and they wear out 1st. if you tested it and it looks ok then don't even bother going any further. pull the unit down and replace the clutch packs.