digital dash swap question
07-19-2009, 09:09 PM
#1
digital dash swap question
I havent installed yet but I have tested out my DD instrument cluster by just plugging it in with the correct OEM harness and sure enough it worked. 2 things though: 1) how difficult is it to install the new necessary digital fuel pump? anything specific i should/shouldn't do when installing it?
2) the odometer on my old DD shows the mileage at 69,000 and the car i'm installing it in has 132,000...is there a way to recalibrate the DD or do something so the mileage is right?
thanks
2) the odometer on my old DD shows the mileage at 69,000 and the car i'm installing it in has 132,000...is there a way to recalibrate the DD or do something so the mileage is right?
thanks
07-20-2009, 09:07 AM
#3
I'll consider the drill/spinning idea. Is the speed sensor on the DD/cluster or somewhere else on the car? How would I even go about doing that?
07-20-2009, 04:01 PM
#5
also, I just realized, I misread your first post. I thought the new one had fewer miles... that may work, but if it does, it will take FOREVER to do... you gotta spin it, until it reaches 1,000,000 mi/km, and then bring it up to the current 68k... may want to get a replacement speed sensor (or ten), just in case it dies...
07-20-2009, 11:21 PM
#7
I havent installed yet but I have tested out my DD instrument cluster by just plugging it in with the correct OEM harness and sure enough it worked. 2 things though: 1) how difficult is it to install the new necessary digital fuel pump? anything specific i should/shouldn't do when installing it?
2) the odometer on my old DD shows the mileage at 69,000 and the car i'm installing it in has 132,000...is there a way to recalibrate the DD or do something so the mileage is right?
thanks
2) the odometer on my old DD shows the mileage at 69,000 and the car i'm installing it in has 132,000...is there a way to recalibrate the DD or do something so the mileage is right?
thanks
Don't want to sound like an ***, but a little credit would be nice..Anyway, I've been really busy and didn't have time to answer your second message where you asked these questions. It's not very difficult to swap the fuel pump. Kill the fuel pressure, remove the back seat, remove cover bolts, remove pump bolts, remove fuel lines, disconnect wiring and pull it out. Do this on the parts car first so you know what you expect. You can either swap complete pumps, or you can swap the sending unit itself which will require removing a single screw, desoldering a wire and doing the reverse when installing on the pump you want to use.
As far as the mileage. You can either desolder the correct IC from the MCU and dump the data, study the bin file and find out where the mileage is stored and edit that, then reburn the data onto a new chip of the same type with a programmer and resolder it to the board.
Or you could simply make a note of the actual mileage of the car and what the digital odometer reads prior to the swap, do the math, and not worry that it doesn't show the exact mileage
Last edited by Hectic; 07-21-2009 at 01:09 AM.
07-21-2009, 07:17 AM
#8
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Yeah, "sure enough it worked" after I told you what to do via PM Don't want to sound like an ***, but a little credit would be nice..
Anyway, I've been really busy and didn't have time to answer your second message where you asked these questions. It's not very difficult to swap the fuel pump. Kill the fuel pressure, remove the back seat, remove cover bolts, remove pump bolts, remove fuel lines, disconnect wiring and pull it out. Do this on the parts car first so you know what you expect. You can either swap complete pumps, or you can swap the sending unit itself which will require removing a single screw, desoldering a wire and doing the reverse when installing on the pump you want to use.
As far as the mileage. You can either desolder the correct IC from the MCU and dump the data, study the bin file and find out where the mileage is stored and edit that, then reburn the data onto a new chip of the same type with a programmer and resolder it to the board.
Or you could simply make a note of the actual mileage of the car and what the digital odometer reads prior to the swap, do the math, and not worry that it doesn't show the exact mileage
That would be me. I was using a free host that went down without warning months ago and I haven't bothered with it since.. You motivated me to find a new server and re-up the page which I did just now. Seems to be a pretty decent server, hopefully it sticks around for awhile. The page is far from finished, I haven't worked on it since the day I started it, so it's not a complete tutorial or anything.. http://pearlmax.t35.com/dd/dd/digidash.htm
Don't want to sound like an ***, but a little credit would be nice..Anyway, I've been really busy and didn't have time to answer your second message where you asked these questions. It's not very difficult to swap the fuel pump. Kill the fuel pressure, remove the back seat, remove cover bolts, remove pump bolts, remove fuel lines, disconnect wiring and pull it out. Do this on the parts car first so you know what you expect. You can either swap complete pumps, or you can swap the sending unit itself which will require removing a single screw, desoldering a wire and doing the reverse when installing on the pump you want to use.
As far as the mileage. You can either desolder the correct IC from the MCU and dump the data, study the bin file and find out where the mileage is stored and edit that, then reburn the data onto a new chip of the same type with a programmer and resolder it to the board.
Or you could simply make a note of the actual mileage of the car and what the digital odometer reads prior to the swap, do the math, and not worry that it doesn't show the exact mileage
That would be me. I was using a free host that went down without warning months ago and I haven't bothered with it since.. You motivated me to find a new server and re-up the page which I did just now. Seems to be a pretty decent server, hopefully it sticks around for awhile. The page is far from finished, I haven't worked on it since the day I started it, so it's not a complete tutorial or anything.. http://pearlmax.t35.com/dd/dd/digidash.htm
...i m changing my '' WHITE FACE GAUGES CLUSTER'' to digital cuz i want something new lol and i just spent 2 hours figuring out which wires go where and comparing analog and digital...seems like several wires are the same color and should be pretty easy except swapping the digital cluster's matching fuel pump and splicing some wires or MANY wires...since u have already done it so tell me can i just cut the analog cluster's harness and put the digital's in...? i don't feel like taking the whole dash out or neither i m interested in putting HUD....just the digi cluster....is the VE tach signal same as VG? yes? no?and thanks alot for making that page alive...appreciate that....
Last edited by burhan92SE; 07-21-2009 at 07:40 AM.
07-21-2009, 05:50 PM
#9
Yeah, a lot of the corresponding wires are the same color between both analog and digital, but there are 9 more wires going to the digital harness compared to analog. It's been a long time, but I believe they are mostly +12v and ground wires, so you need to tie into those and branch them out. I wouldn't recommend trying to rewire in the car, taking the dash out is almost required. That way you can check continuity and make sure you've wired everything correctly, and trust me, you're going to want a comfortable table or bench to work at. You're also going to want to use the FSM diagrams, you could possibly get away with blindly wiring colors together, but that's fools gold, there are certain wires that are the same color as others and you could easily get confused or make mistakes.
Both the analog and digital tachs operate on a signal from the ECU which acts as a pass through. This signal is the same for a VG or VE.
Both the analog and digital tachs operate on a signal from the ECU which acts as a pass through. This signal is the same for a VG or VE.
Last edited by Hectic; 07-21-2009 at 06:00 PM.
07-21-2009, 08:10 PM
#10
Yeah, a lot of the corresponding wires are the same color between both analog and digital, but there are 9 more wires going to the digital harness compared to analog. It's been a long time, but I believe they are mostly +12v and ground wires, so you need to tie into those and branch them out. I wouldn't recommend trying to rewire in the car, taking the dash out is almost required. That way you can check continuity and make sure you've wired everything correctly, and trust me, you're going to want a comfortable table or bench to work at. You're also going to want to use the FSM diagrams, you could possibly get away with blindly wiring colors together, but that's fools gold, there are certain wires that are the same color as others and you could easily get confused or make mistakes.
Both the analog and digital tachs operate on a signal from the ECU which acts as a pass through. This signal is the same for a VG or VE.
Both the analog and digital tachs operate on a signal from the ECU which acts as a pass through. This signal is the same for a VG or VE.
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