Which plugs and distributor cap should I get?
#1
Which plugs and distributor cap should I get?
Seems my max is overdue for a spring tuneup and she is not running so nicely these days. Very rich, smelly exhaust, lumpy and sputtering idle plus hesitation on acceleration when cold. Obviously its time to do some things To rule out some issues I'm going to repair whats necessary and replace some suspect parts along the way one at a time to see what my issue was. The list is as follows:
1. Engine Temp sensor
2. cap and rotor
3. spark plugs
4. fuel lines
5. vacuum lines
6. intake and ISC motor cleaning
7. resistance readings on injectors
8. New y-pipe and cat
9. Check timing (do I need to?)
So if it still runs crappy then I really have issues because I have no idea what to look at next! So any suggestions on plugs, cap and rotor?
FYI: The tranny is fine, the coils seem to be ok visually and the plug wires are new.
1. Engine Temp sensor
2. cap and rotor
3. spark plugs
4. fuel lines
5. vacuum lines
6. intake and ISC motor cleaning
7. resistance readings on injectors
8. New y-pipe and cat
9. Check timing (do I need to?)
So if it still runs crappy then I really have issues because I have no idea what to look at next! So any suggestions on plugs, cap and rotor?
FYI: The tranny is fine, the coils seem to be ok visually and the plug wires are new.
#4
Well, no. Those are random facts for the people who might try to diagnose my issues as the few items I have already ruled out. I find if you post about an issue you have to answer all questions ahead of time so you dont waste bandwidth telling people you already checked that part. So I'm telling people ahead of time that my transmission is not responsible for the driveability problems and neither are old wires or a faulty coil pack
#5
for the extra bit of $$ (maybe $6 per plug instead of $4/plug), I always splurge and put in NGK Platinum. They also last longer. I noticed a big difference, but I was also overdue for a tune up.
On cap & rotor, I think I went with run-of-the-mill brand carried by the parts store, German name like Niehoff (??). I didn't see a big change from swapping out my rotor & cap, although they both looked worn.
I didn't see air filter on that tune up list!! I'd do that too.
yes, I'd check timing. mine was off by a degree or two and I set it back to the mark, but the manual says +/- 1 or 2 degrees (IIRC).
On cap & rotor, I think I went with run-of-the-mill brand carried by the parts store, German name like Niehoff (??). I didn't see a big change from swapping out my rotor & cap, although they both looked worn.
I didn't see air filter on that tune up list!! I'd do that too.
yes, I'd check timing. mine was off by a degree or two and I set it back to the mark, but the manual says +/- 1 or 2 degrees (IIRC).
#6
Ok good advice on the plugs, thanks. I was thinking of a bosch cap and rotor but if it makes no difference than I wont bother. I just put in a K&N filter BTW, but youre right, thats a first step on a tune up.
#7
Update if anyone cares
Changed items 1,2 and 3 and it runs much smoother but I think I still have issues. I wound up with NGK BKR6EGP plugs. Steps 5,6,7 and 9 come next I really hope the mileage picked up, the plug gaps were way open, ranging from .48 to .52!!
Changed items 1,2 and 3 and it runs much smoother but I think I still have issues. I wound up with NGK BKR6EGP plugs. Steps 5,6,7 and 9 come next I really hope the mileage picked up, the plug gaps were way open, ranging from .48 to .52!!
Seems my max is overdue for a spring tuneup and she is not running so nicely these days. Very rich, smelly exhaust, lumpy and sputtering idle plus hesitation on acceleration when cold. Obviously its time to do some things To rule out some issues I'm going to repair whats necessary and replace some suspect parts along the way one at a time to see what my issue was. The list is as follows:
1. Engine Temp sensor
2. cap and rotor
3. spark plugs
4. fuel lines
5. vacuum lines
6. intake and ISC motor cleaning
7. resistance readings on injectors
8. New y-pipe and cat
9. Check timing (do I need to?)
So if it still runs crappy then I really have issues because I have no idea what to look at next! So any suggestions on plugs, cap and rotor?
FYI: The tranny is fine, the coils seem to be ok visually and the plug wires are new.
1. Engine Temp sensor
2. cap and rotor
3. spark plugs
4. fuel lines
5. vacuum lines
6. intake and ISC motor cleaning
7. resistance readings on injectors
8. New y-pipe and cat
9. Check timing (do I need to?)
So if it still runs crappy then I really have issues because I have no idea what to look at next! So any suggestions on plugs, cap and rotor?
FYI: The tranny is fine, the coils seem to be ok visually and the plug wires are new.
#8
ibetyouro2sensorisdeadsinceyourrunningrich
#10
get rid of that K&N filter. If improperly oiled it will damage your maf and cause incorrect readings. Stick to a plain paper air filter unless you are running a true CAI.
#11
my brother used K&N air filters on his s13 forever.
maybe read this?
http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/MAFTestresults.htm
Last edited by Garf; 10-20-2009 at 09:48 AM.
#12
I've never heard of the oil in K&N air filters screwing up MAF readings???
my brother used K&N air filters on his s13 forever.
maybe read this?
http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/MAFTestresults.htm
my brother used K&N air filters on his s13 forever.
maybe read this?
http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/MAFTestresults.htm
#13
#14
I heard of this as well from a nissan mechanic. He told me to get rid of my K&N air filter b/c it would damage my maf. Well I didn't believe him and now a year later my maf is now done.
#15
you're probably doing it wrong.
#16
Over-oiling is the main cause for MAF failure, not just on 3rd gens. If you oil the filter correctly, very very lightly, and let it set before use, you will minimize the risk of killing your maf.
The MAF is a heated wire that measure the temperature difference based on the heated wire. Heated wire + oil = No good.
As for the plugs, I've always used NGK V power in all of my Nissan and Mazdas. Works the best and only $2.00 each.
Here is a fabulouse link for Plug wires.
http://www.kingsbornewires.com/
Very good quality, and very good prices. I bought my first set of Kingsborne wires over 8 years ago. I don't have the car any more, but I would bet money they are still running strong, and looking great.
The MAF is a heated wire that measure the temperature difference based on the heated wire. Heated wire + oil = No good.
As for the plugs, I've always used NGK V power in all of my Nissan and Mazdas. Works the best and only $2.00 each.
Here is a fabulouse link for Plug wires.
http://www.kingsbornewires.com/
Very good quality, and very good prices. I bought my first set of Kingsborne wires over 8 years ago. I don't have the car any more, but I would bet money they are still running strong, and looking great.
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