Coolant temp sensor question
Coolant temp sensor question
I know there are two different "temperature" sensors, one is a sending unit for the gauge, the other reports to the ECU. When looking for a replacement for the ECU one, is it called anything different? Is there a standard part number or something else to determine which one it is? I think mine might be giving false info so I wanted to replace it but I want to get the right one, thanks!
The simplest way to get the right sensor, the temperature sensor that sends the info to the ECM has two pins and the one that sends it to the gauge has one prong. So just make sure it has 2 pins and you should be good.
On the Nissan FSM, the one that goes to the ECM is called the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor and the one that goes to the gauge is called the Thermal Transmitter.
EDIT: Here is a picture of the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Note: The number listed at the dealer website is not the original part number, even though it is the original part.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22630-e...-p-183520.html
On the Nissan FSM, the one that goes to the ECM is called the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor and the one that goes to the gauge is called the Thermal Transmitter.
EDIT: Here is a picture of the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Note: The number listed at the dealer website is not the original part number, even though it is the original part.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22630-e...-p-183520.html
Last edited by jbbons25; Sep 24, 2009 at 11:20 PM.
Yeah I had to replace mine 3 days ago. I replaced the sending unit about 2 years ago, and got it from advance auto parts, they tried to sell me the one I didnt need. The sending unit is like between $5 to $8. The sensor is like $16. My car was running like crap, giving signs that It was over heating, when it actually wasnt. Both Cooling fans would come on at full speed everytime I started that car. Then when the car actually started to get a little overheated the fans would not come on at all, and I would have to shut it off. But the new sensor stopped all that.
Yeah I had to replace mine 3 days ago. I replaced the sending unit about 2 years ago, and got it from advance auto parts, they tried to sell me the one I didnt need. The sending unit is like between $5 to $8. The sensor is like $16. My car was running like crap, giving signs that It was over heating, when it actually wasnt. Both Cooling fans would come on at full speed everytime I started that car. Then when the car actually started to get a little overheated the fans would not come on at all, and I would have to shut it off. But the new sensor stopped all that.
It DID throw the proper code on the ECU. It was the only time it has ever thrown a code.

The sensor was under $20 and took like 5 minutes to replace.
Pretty much the same thing with mine. It ran like crap, fans kept turning on and it was kind of scary, like the car was possessed with demons.
It DID throw the proper code on the ECU. It was the only time it has ever thrown a code.
The sensor was under $20 and took like 5 minutes to replace.
It DID throw the proper code on the ECU. It was the only time it has ever thrown a code.

The sensor was under $20 and took like 5 minutes to replace.
Hah ha ha, thats a good one! I should have checked my ECU to see whether or not it threw a code, since ive got dying injectors and all it want to do is throw a code 55 everytime.
Hmm I wonder if thats what my issue is then. Its not doing anything like that. It is more of a cold running problem, once its up to temp it runs fine but during warm up its bad. Its also dumping fuel with smelly exhaust and poor economy but I know that could be leaky injectors too. I hate changing parts for no reason.....sigh
Pulled me out of retirement for this one. I changed the sensor and it did nothing for me, it was cheap enough to change without bothering to check it first. Im sure if you check the manual there is a spec for resistance across the terminals.
You ain't retired, you just went silent. There is nothing reliable about a resistance check, I have parts that "ohm" out correctly that is beyond dysfunctional. What he should do even though newbie is in the wrong forum is to plug up a code reader even though the car might not be throwing a code an go from there. If you have a 1996 and up vehicle a code reader is your friend. And it's cheaper than a few rounds at the bar.
Last edited by Augustus Maximus; Nov 4, 2010 at 04:48 PM.
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