Code 33
Code 33
Checked the Ecu today, and pulled a code 33 and no other codes.
The car has been getting pretty bad gas mileage lately, which is the main reason i tried pulling codes. Also at low rpm's the car is stumbling and hesitating a lot "bogging down", but feels silky smooth and normal above 2k rpm. I thought it would have pulled a 6X, injector, but only a 33 was given. I tried pulling plug wires to see on idle if any cylinder was misfiring, but made no difference on any cyl.
So, does anyone know where I can get a cheaper 02 sensor and are all model 02 sensors swappable?
1993 GXE
Autotragic
The car has been getting pretty bad gas mileage lately, which is the main reason i tried pulling codes. Also at low rpm's the car is stumbling and hesitating a lot "bogging down", but feels silky smooth and normal above 2k rpm. I thought it would have pulled a 6X, injector, but only a 33 was given. I tried pulling plug wires to see on idle if any cylinder was misfiring, but made no difference on any cyl.
So, does anyone know where I can get a cheaper 02 sensor and are all model 02 sensors swappable?
1993 GXE
Autotragic
Last edited by Garf; Oct 2, 2009 at 04:07 PM.
if it says 33, it means 33. deadm o2 sensor will make the car run really rich all the time, which can cause stumbling.
first check to make sure none of the wires to the sensor are broken. i "wasted" $90 on a sensor when it turned out to be a broken wire. you may need to use a multimeter with extra long leads to test the continuity of the signal wire back to the ECU connector.
if none are broken then go ahead and cough up the dough for a new sensor. it'll pay for itself in no time. i went from 15mpg to 23mpg when i fixed my wiring (ie, went from NO sensor to brand new working sensor). your results wouldn't be as good (going from a worn out but working sensor to a new sensor) but even so you'd probably get a 4-5mpg improvement.
first check to make sure none of the wires to the sensor are broken. i "wasted" $90 on a sensor when it turned out to be a broken wire. you may need to use a multimeter with extra long leads to test the continuity of the signal wire back to the ECU connector.
if none are broken then go ahead and cough up the dough for a new sensor. it'll pay for itself in no time. i went from 15mpg to 23mpg when i fixed my wiring (ie, went from NO sensor to brand new working sensor). your results wouldn't be as good (going from a worn out but working sensor to a new sensor) but even so you'd probably get a 4-5mpg improvement.
if it says 33, it means 33. deadm o2 sensor will make the car run really rich all the time, which can cause stumbling.
first check to make sure none of the wires to the sensor are broken. i "wasted" $90 on a sensor when it turned out to be a broken wire. you may need to use a multimeter with extra long leads to test the continuity of the signal wire back to the ECU connector.
if none are broken then go ahead and cough up the dough for a new sensor. it'll pay for itself in no time. i went from 15mpg to 23mpg when i fixed my wiring (ie, went from NO sensor to brand new working sensor). your results wouldn't be as good (going from a worn out but working sensor to a new sensor) but even so you'd probably get a 4-5mpg improvement.
first check to make sure none of the wires to the sensor are broken. i "wasted" $90 on a sensor when it turned out to be a broken wire. you may need to use a multimeter with extra long leads to test the continuity of the signal wire back to the ECU connector.
if none are broken then go ahead and cough up the dough for a new sensor. it'll pay for itself in no time. i went from 15mpg to 23mpg when i fixed my wiring (ie, went from NO sensor to brand new working sensor). your results wouldn't be as good (going from a worn out but working sensor to a new sensor) but even so you'd probably get a 4-5mpg improvement.
Holy ***** yea i'm getting about 15mpg right now haha and it is hurting. Dude, now that I wrote it out I just realized that when I got my new flex section welded in one of the 02 sensor wires(raided ground wire) i think was all broken and corroded, it might just be that it's that wire. I completely forgot about that! thanks for the quick reply. I'll go fix/check that wire situation before anything else.
yea, i just wiped it off, no cleaning agents, just a rag. it was really really sooty. that normal? went for a drive around the lock, gassed up, came home and checked the codes again, got a 55, but i don't know if the drive was long enough for it to store one.
thanks for all the help caped.
the car is still stumbling whenever engine speeds are between 1500-2000rpm
thanks for all the help caped.
the car is still stumbling whenever engine speeds are between 1500-2000rpm
Last edited by Garf; Oct 2, 2009 at 05:43 PM.
yea, i just wiped it off, no cleaning agents, just a rag. it was really really sooty. that normal? went for a drive around the lock, gassed up, came home and checked the codes again, got a 55, but i don't know if the drive was long enough for it to store one.
thanks for all the help caped.
the car is still stumbling whenever engine speeds are between 1500-2000rpm
thanks for all the help caped.
the car is still stumbling whenever engine speeds are between 1500-2000rpm
I know that injectors can be a right PITA to get codes to actually show up. but ive ohmed in all mine and they are in spec still. So maybe time for a new airfilter/plug wires/disty/vacc line?
I don't believe i know how to "clear the codes" after reading the codes i just took the keys out and drove it.
I know that injectors can be a right PITA to get codes to actually show up. but ive ohmed in all mine and they are in spec still. So maybe time for a new airfilter/plug wires/disty/vacc line?
I know that injectors can be a right PITA to get codes to actually show up. but ive ohmed in all mine and they are in spec still. So maybe time for a new airfilter/plug wires/disty/vacc line?
no, i didn't clear them then. The wires are undamaged and the connector clip looks fine too, so it looks like i'll cough up the dough for the new one. Courtesy parts has them for 129$, Other places online have them as cheap as around 60-70$ is there anything to look out for as far as getting a crappy reman that'll just die, or a brand out there that just plain sucks etc. that i should avoid? also, are all 3rd gen o2 sensors swappable or do i need to find one specifically for a 93 gxe?
Last edited by Garf; Oct 3, 2009 at 07:31 AM.
no, i didn't clear them then. The wires are undamaged and the connector clip looks fine too, so it looks like i'll cough up the dough for the new one. Courtesy parts has them for 129$, Other places online have them as cheap as around 60-70$ is there anything to look out for as far as getting a crappy reman that'll just die, or a brand out there that just plain sucks etc. that i should avoid? also, are all 3rd gen o2 sensors swappable or do i need to find one specifically for a 93 gxe?
Thanks, went to Lordco and got one for 100$, they had one in stock which was lucky. It was a NTK. The old o2 sensor was NTK also.? still have to take it for a drive but it's lookin good.
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