On drive but does not move forward.
10-16-2009, 11:04 PM
#1
On drive but does not move forward.
so today i put my car on drive, and it doesnt move. i believe its the bushing? anyone want to help me out and talked to me about what needs to be done? is it expensive to fix? once i forced it more down, it would hit and move forward.
your input is appreciated.
your input is appreciated.
10-16-2009, 11:13 PM
#2
mine does that, if you go straight to D she wont move, i have to move the shifter a bit towards 2 and she goes into drive
i guess its the shifter bushing, $5 to fix ive been told. not fixing it doesnt do damage but its not a pricey fix. one of those things i have to get around to doing
i guess its the shifter bushing, $5 to fix ive been told. not fixing it doesnt do damage but its not a pricey fix. one of those things i have to get around to doing
10-16-2009, 11:22 PM
#4
yea it revs up like im on neutral. once i pull back harder itll hit and move forward. the D, hasnt happened to be before until today but it has affected me from starting the car. a few times i try to start the car it doesnt start, but once you push forward on the **** itll start. i guess it wasnt fully ON park? yep.
10-17-2009, 09:31 AM
#6
If it will engage drive when you put some pressure on the shifter/move the shifter then it sounds like it's most likely the bushing. It's pretty cheap and not very difficult of a fix.
10-17-2009, 09:33 AM
#7
yep, mine rev's but doesnt go anywhere too
i asked about this a few weeks ago and CapedCadaver wrote a good reply with a picture of what needs to be fixed, you might be able to find the thread or i dont remember if i posted it in the giant noob thread
i asked about this a few weeks ago and CapedCadaver wrote a good reply with a picture of what needs to be fixed, you might be able to find the thread or i dont remember if i posted it in the giant noob thread
10-17-2009, 09:42 AM
#8
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Moody/Pell City, Alabama
Posts: 124
I just got my '94 and it has the same problem, but I don't know about the "puttin it in drive problem: because I'm always starting off in 1; however, I probably would have that problem. How can it be fixed?
10-17-2009, 10:02 AM
#9
here guys this thread should be really helpful: http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...e-shifter.html
i should prolly be doing this to my max pretty soon. 220k and it has never been changed as far as i know
i should prolly be doing this to my max pretty soon. 220k and it has never been changed as far as i know
10-17-2009, 11:20 AM
#10
all you have to do is remove the 4-5 small bolts that hold the catalytic converter heat-shield, and slide it out of the way, then just pop the cotter pin off, slide the shifter cable end off the shifter, and put the new bushing on (big side toward the shifter, small side toward the cable end). if you do it while the exhaust is cool, you can do it in under 10 minutes.
there's another bushing on the backside of the transmission, same part# as the other one, that is sort of directly below the brake master cylinder. you don't have to jack the car up to get to that one.
now i'm assuming that the car will go if you shift straight into 2 or L, right?
there's another bushing on the backside of the transmission, same part# as the other one, that is sort of directly below the brake master cylinder. you don't have to jack the car up to get to that one.
now i'm assuming that the car will go if you shift straight into 2 or L, right?
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-17-2009 at 11:22 AM.
10-17-2009, 12:04 PM
#11
so i just came back from the mechanic. he said i need to change 2 engine mounts, and 2 transmission mounts in order for him to adjust the shifter. according to him the bushing is still usuable and not damaged. what do you guys think?
10-17-2009, 12:06 PM
#12
he quoted me
580 including labor for original nissan engine and transmission mount
or
380 including labor for generic engine and transmission mount.
when i drive i mean, it seems really smooth, im not quite sure. its alot of money.
eff my life.
580 including labor for original nissan engine and transmission mount
or
380 including labor for generic engine and transmission mount.
when i drive i mean, it seems really smooth, im not quite sure. its alot of money.
eff my life.
10-17-2009, 12:17 PM
#14
i think that's the biggest load of sh*t i've ever heard........... motor mounts have absolutely NOTHING to do with the shift linkage on an automatic. nothing at all. there are metal straps mounted to the body of the trans, and on the body of the car. the sheath itself stays put, which allows the cable inside to slide and push/pull on the selector shaft on the tranny. because the sheath is affixed to the body and the tranny, the drivetrain can move relative to the body without disturbing the adjustment of the shifter.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-17-2009 at 12:23 PM.
10-17-2009, 12:42 PM
#16
Probably tell my pops to help me out with this. so in that other thread, someone posted
is the bushing located where the red circle is?
so all i need to do is remove the heatshield,slide it down, and replace the bushing? thats it?
is there any tips or anything i need to know before performing this?
is the bushing located where the red circle is?
so all i need to do is remove the heatshield,slide it down, and replace the bushing? thats it?
is there any tips or anything i need to know before performing this?
10-17-2009, 08:02 PM
#18
10-17-2009, 08:06 PM
#19
Probably tell my pops to help me out with this. so in that other thread, someone posted
is the bushing located where the red circle is?
so all i need to do is remove the heatshield,slide it down, and replace the bushing? thats it?
is there any tips or anything i need to know before performing this?
is the bushing located where the red circle is?
so all i need to do is remove the heatshield,slide it down, and replace the bushing? thats it?
is there any tips or anything i need to know before performing this?
the heatshield itself you're going to have to bend just a little bit, but it will regain its shape naturally once you put it back in its proper position. it's pretty springy.just don't lose the washer that sits between the cable-end and cotter pin.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-17-2009 at 08:09 PM.
10-17-2009, 09:24 PM
#20
yea, where the red circle is. there is 1 bolt that is gonna be harder to get to than the rest of them (the middle-rear bolt) but the other ones are easy to get to. luckily my middle-rear bolt was rusted out so i didn't have to touch it the heatshield itself you're going to have to bend just a little bit, but it will regain its shape naturally once you put it back in its proper position. it's pretty springy.
just don't lose the washer that sits between the cable-end and cotter pin.
the heatshield itself you're going to have to bend just a little bit, but it will regain its shape naturally once you put it back in its proper position. it's pretty springy.just don't lose the washer that sits between the cable-end and cotter pin.
and also what are the symtoms of needing new engine and transmission mounts?
cuz when i drive it seems fine but iono my mechanic said i need new ones. please let me know, thanks alot capedcadaver, uve been a great help bro.
10-17-2009, 09:50 PM
#21
do i need to take off the wsp or can i work around it?
and also what are the symtoms of needing new engine and transmission mounts?
cuz when i drive it seems fine but iono my mechanic said i need new ones. please let me know, thanks alot capedcadaver, uve been a great help bro.
and also what are the symtoms of needing new engine and transmission mounts?
cuz when i drive it seems fine but iono my mechanic said i need new ones. please let me know, thanks alot capedcadaver, uve been a great help bro.
No you don't have to take the exhaust off. You just have to remove the heat shield above the cat. Once you do that, you can change the bushing in about 30 seconds tops
You should be able to inspect the mounts visually. You can inspect them quite easily. Just look at them - if they're not torn/split/cracked/etc. then they are likely fine. Generally on an automatic if your engine/transmission mounts are shot, then your car will "lunge" (or "clunk") pretty hard when you put it into gear. The fact that you have the play in your shifter wherein you need to just nudge it a little further back points almost exclusively to the shifter bushing.
10-19-2009, 05:37 PM
#25
i took my Max in to get some other stuff looked at, and asked them to look at my bushing because i have to wiggle the shifter in D and it does that crap where i have to rock her back and forth and you hear a click then she lets you start her
they said my bushing is fine and my whole shifter is fine? what else could cause it?
they said my bushing is fine and my whole shifter is fine? what else could cause it?
10-19-2009, 06:38 PM
#26
i took my Max in to get some other stuff looked at, and asked them to look at my bushing because i have to wiggle the shifter in D and it does that crap where i have to rock her back and forth and you hear a click then she lets you start her
they said my bushing is fine and my whole shifter is fine? what else could cause it?
they said my bushing is fine and my whole shifter is fine? what else could cause it?
on another note, when i took my car to the mechanic, he said i need new engine mounts and transmission mounts, but when i tried to shake my engine today it doesnt shake one bit, when i start the car, and switch the gears, it jerks which is probably normal. my mechanic said that if the engine and transmission moves, it can possible move the shifter.
so im kind of lost myself, i dont want to pay 580 bucks for something thats not broken. ill keep you updated if i find the problem. cuz my mechanic and dad said that my bushing is fine also.
10-20-2009, 06:17 AM
#27
if your motor jumps when you put it into gear, then you need mounts. Do all of them at once otherwise you will be continually replacing them because once one goes it takes out the next weakest one.
10-20-2009, 09:57 AM
#28
jumps or jerks? or is that the same, it jerks a bit . but when i drive it seems smooth. so much **** to fix and iono where to start -___-
10-20-2009, 09:58 AM
#29
and also what do you guys think of generic mounts as oppose to nissan oem mounts. its a 200 dollar differents pretty much.
580 nissan including labor
380 generic including labor.
he said once i replace those he can adjust it so that i can put my car on drive to work properly.
10-20-2009, 11:03 AM
#31
10-20-2009, 12:00 PM
#32
actually i have had HUGE problems with generic motor mounts. the absolute only way they would fit was to grind down the xmember. they are garbage. oem all the way for motor mounts. tranny mounts can probably go generic tho.
10-20-2009, 12:34 PM
#33
because the tranny doesnt move all that much right.
10-20-2009, 01:03 PM
#34
im so lost i dont even know where to start. i originally came to my mechanic to figure out what to do with the Drive and Park. Cuz sometimes when im on park i cant start the car unless i push the **** up. As for D i doesnt move up unless i pull it down hard or go into 2 then push it back to D. my mechanic said my bushing is fine, and my dad checked it out he said it was fine too, its not warn out or cracked or anything. so now i have 3 problems i needa fix and i have no idea what to do.
1. need to fix the P & D problem
2. supposedly need to change my engine and transmission mounts ( if i do this itll fix the p & d problem, however its alot of money)
3. the hissing problem which is coming from my exhaust manifold, supposedly i need a new gasket, on top of that there are 3-5 bolts stripped, so they need to drill it to take out the broken bolts. -_________- this can probably wait not quite sure. FML.
what do you guys thing i should do.
oh and also just to make sure theres 2 engine mounts and 2 transmission mounts correct?
1. need to fix the P & D problem
2. supposedly need to change my engine and transmission mounts ( if i do this itll fix the p & d problem, however its alot of money)
3. the hissing problem which is coming from my exhaust manifold, supposedly i need a new gasket, on top of that there are 3-5 bolts stripped, so they need to drill it to take out the broken bolts. -_________- this can probably wait not quite sure. FML.
what do you guys thing i should do.
oh and also just to make sure theres 2 engine mounts and 2 transmission mounts correct?
Last edited by Stwodahorty; 10-20-2009 at 03:16 PM.
10-20-2009, 06:44 PM
#36
10-20-2009, 06:48 PM
#37
haha yeah man. my dad took another look turns out it came out exactly like your video. the insulator is totally missing. the part number in the other thread isnt correct tho.
the part number is 34552-D4000. just picked it up right now, my dads gonna do it for me tomarow. good thing i didnt blow 580 bucks. i still needa fix the hissing problem tho, ill probably take it somewhere else to do it. iono want him ripping me off.
the part number is 34552-D4000. just picked it up right now, my dads gonna do it for me tomarow. good thing i didnt blow 580 bucks. i still needa fix the hissing problem tho, ill probably take it somewhere else to do it. iono want him ripping me off.
10-20-2009, 06:52 PM
#38
my mechanic is actually a great mechanic, but this is the very first it just didnt seem right you know. cuz when i drive its smooth as hell, and im thinkin wtf does that have to do with the shifting. -_-
10-21-2009, 06:54 AM
#40
yea the way it's mounted is similar to the brake cables on a mountain bike.. you can turn the handlebars whichever way and it has no effect on the adjustment of the cable.