Was up everybody. Im about to get the Maxima bak on the road and I Just wanted someone elses opinion. The guy who I was going to get to do the job wants $725. He has a used transmission in a 93 maxima like mine that has somewhere near 216,000 miles. That is alot of miles considering mine blew at 224,000 miles. He told me $250 for the tranny over the phone. Then When I get there now its $350 for it. I told him I know someone else who will install the tranny for me for $250, and I know where I can get a tranny for $350 with less mileage than the one he is trying to sell. So the guy says to get new seals ex. Torque converter seal, rear main seal, and driveaxle seals, plus the gasket, and the $50 transmission fluid plus the lucas additive would run about $80, plus his $250 for labor. Does that sound like a reasonable deal. I dont think I feel to good about this one. I feel like im gonna ge ripped off. Ive never heard of $50 tranny fluid?

 

well the fluid can add up for all 8 or 9 quarts of some good fluid and new seals would be a good idea ! BUT if you dont feel good about it than DONT DO IT ! And yes why would you awnt a used trans with only couple thousans miles less than the one you just had. You shouldnt need any lucas additive if its a good trans anyways ! That right there tells you something is already wrong with as those stupid additives only serve one purpose and thats to quiet up problems before you sell a car (this is my opinoin though) ! Things like White Shepard oil seal additive is the only thing I have ever personally seen work !

 

Yeah that's a lot of miles for a replacement auto tranny for any car, especially a VG. Pass on it unless it's been rebuilt which it doesn't seem like it has.

 

yah you are right! The guy also claims that the lucas stuff costs about $25 a bottle, when its in wal-mart for about $10. Plus he's like well you cant find a cheaper tranny because they sell for $500 and up. I was like well I can get one for much less, I should have left. I paid him $100 to start on the tranny, Im going to get my money bak and call it a day.

 

For "$500 and up" it must be a tranny with 10k miles or so. I think, they don't exist so you can only get with higher miles and significantly cheaper. His tranny is junk and he should pay to get it disposed . Please don't put any additives there, it should work fine without.

 

that dude is a ******* ripoff artist. I wouldn't pay $10 for a VG tranny with that many miles, let alone $350.

 

Thanks I kinda thought so too! Great I will tell him I dont want his peice of junk!

 

Tell him you'll give him 350 for the whole car or else he can shove than trans up his

 

Tell him to go to hell.


Oops!
Did I say that out loud?

 

wtf??? that much for a USED(note the caps) tranny? that guy has got to be state certified retarded...lol i wished i would pay that much for that many miles...i'd shoot myself in the d**k like cheddar bob on 8mile lol...i mean damn i got quoted 500 for a 97 5spd tranny with both axles and it had 107k on it...i laughed at the guy...but yeah always go with ya gut instinct...that doesnt even sound good to be true just plain dumb as hell. you need to call a junkyard and ask them to locate you a tranny on their teletype...

 

When the price changed would have been the end of the conversation for me.

 

You better hurry up and get your money and car before he has it apart, otherwise chances are he won't put it back together until you pay him what he wants!

 

Thanks for everyones opinion! I went and got my money back today! He is full of Sh$$ thinking that Im gonna give him all that money, and there is no guarantee if the tranny worked or not, All he cared about was making a $$$ and not whether or not I would be riding for 1month or 3 weeks on a lucas filled transmission nearly on its death bed, then I would have had to pay him to take it out and start the whole process of looking for another tranny. I dont have money like that and I dont think anyone does! But i am going to go with the first guy that told me he'd do it for $250. Wish it was a little warmer and I had some time to work on taking the tranny out myself. What is the hardest part of the job? I even started spraying penatrating oil to loosen most of the parts that have to be removed, Ive loosened the top three tranny to engine bolts, both struts, and hub nuts, 2 of the pass. side cv joint carrier bearing bolts, the third one is hell to get at without a universal joint(gotta go buy one). Ive heard that the part near the exhaust is the hardest to get at, but also the driverside cd joint seems stuck, but I bought an extra long screw driver to see if I can Pry it out. People these days, I just cant trust around here, because lots of people have maximas of the 3rd generation.

 

imo, hardest part woudl be either gettting the four bolts out that hold it to the motor, or, if the tq converter is supposed to come out with the trans (only worked on one auto max, and I gave less than 1/2 a crap about the trans), getting the bolts off that hold it on the flywheel.
also, depending on who's advice you take, the pass axle is kinda a pain, too.
all this is doable in a weekend (easily), providing you have the replacement trans, and proper tools already.

 

Those used trannies go for around 100 to 160 tops. Check car part dot com. Don't put lucas in it. For fluid just go to walmart and buy the 20L pail of SuperTech ATF , it's good stuff. The most annoying part form me was when the torque converter came out slightly and the bloody thing would not mate up for hrs, I was going insane. I finally figured out it was the torque converter that moved out ever so slightly. So you got to make sure it doesn't move. The way it moved on me, was separating the tranny from the engine, to re-torque the flex plate to crankshaft bolts. When you move the tranny away from the TQ that little **** thing in the center of the TQ to the end of the crankshaft, it can slightly get stuck and move the torque converter a bit. That's what happened until I figured it out hrs later.

 

well its a task im going to have to tackle on my ol lady's 4th gen cuz her tranny locked us out of 1st and 2nd two days after getting tags and s**t and almost $300 worth of brake work done to it....plus i gotta tackle a clutch replacement kit on my 3rd gen either this weekend or while on my vacation from work next week lol...hope it stays in the 50's next week or im gonna be sick as s**t when and if i get done and not pissed at it first lol

 

unless supertech is synthetic, don't get it. the correct spec trans fluid is a low ash formula which other than nissan you will only find in a synthetic. DEXIII is not low ash (nor is it a specification anymore) DEXRON VI is synthetic and backwards compatible (not to mention also a controlled spec)

 

Somehow I don't believe that these old trannies are THAT sensitive. SuperTech Dino ATF says Dexron IIE on the label. 3rd Gen Manual says Dexron IIE for the fluid.

 

doesn't matter what you believe, it matters what the manual said and what works better.
DEXRON IIE is no longer a supported standard so anything mentioning it can be whatever it wants.

 

Of course it matters what we believe. All we have are beliefs and hope unless you have exact data on both sides of the equation. You have no data to support that this Dino ATF does not conform to the IIE standard right? If you do have that data, i'd be interested in a posting. If you don't, then all we have are beliefs and hopes.

 

He doesn't have to do that - if his statement that Dexron IIE is not a supported standard is true and therefore there's no liability for non-compliance you can put Dexron IIE label on a can of water. Not that it will keep sales high for long ...

 

waaaaiiiitt...... youve been here over a year, actively, seen what number of vg-autos die.... and you say they aren't "that sensitive"?

what?

 

bingo.

The Dexron standard is OWNED by GM, they were licensing it out to other companies to use. They stopped licensing out any dexron that does not conform to the DexronVI standard

http://www.gm.com/experience/technol...ase_30NO07.doc

 

So what are you guys trying to say ? Here fill this in :

3rd gen maximas use this trans fluid: ________

 

synthetic

 

So I should get Supertech synthetic transmission fluid??

 

Also what is the best method to remove the 3 screws from the CV Axle carrier bearing thing, Ive gotten 2 of them out so far, its one in there thats in a weird spot? Looks like the only way im going to be able to pull my driver side axle out is to remove that dam passenger side one first! That way I can push the car!

 

Use either a swivel head socket or a wrench. Sometimes that one can be a pain in the bum.

 

you could, not first choice in brands though.

 

Point is, Nobody still has any scientific data that shows the SuperTech DINO is NOT FIT for the RE4F02A. It's all speculation. Until you post proof that it isn't up to par, then I'm going with my Dino garbage ATF...it's so cheap, and when I did the cooler hose exchange method, it takes WAY TOO MUCH to get a true exchange. If I put some rip off synthetic in there, god knows how much it would cost.

OEM fluid up here in Canada is Dino for the 3rd Gen. Synthetic for the newer maximas, called MATIK K.

Benstoked, alot of those trannies likely died due to wear and tear, nobody has any concrete proof it's because of fluid. From the rebuilding community that I converse with, supposedly they say some of the japanese trannies weren't built too robust in the first place. Again, who knows where they actually get their data from. Maybe just word of mouth...which can have some merit...but the guys I deal with a PRO american (GM, Ford etc...)and stock car engine builder type guys so they HATE japanese cars in the first place, so they are already biased.

We'll see how long my JY tranny lasts with the SuperTech in it. I guess this will be sort of a rudimentary test.

 

Sales? Try liability. Do you think Walmart would take that kind of risk? Just to put something on the bottle for no reason?

My original point is, will the SuperTech Dino ATF be sufficient for the 3rd Gen, and really, nobody has any proof that it is not sufficient yet. If one really wants to get down to it, I guess they'll have to get an oil sample of the SuperTech and get a sample of the Nissan MATIC D, and compare the 2.

And as for oil, I run now the cheapest possible Penzoil Yellow Bottle. Good enough for stock.

 

i meant more along the lines of examples dex3, dex4, dex6 , d-4

 

a dexronIII synthetic will be fine even though that standard is no longer licensed.
DexronVI is the current standard, but any synthetic should do.