So I have a new set of wheels and tires. The wheels are 16x8.5", the tires are 245/45/16's. The wheels have a +37 offset. I'm good in the front, but in the rear I am hitting the struts. I can bolt the wheels on in the rear, but the tires push up against the strut. I am wondering what you guys think. Do have experience with this fitment? What size spacer should I run? I rolled my fenders over the weekend, so I have a little bit of extra room towards the outside. Thanks for any advice. Also I am posting this here since it's third gen spacific.

 

Stack washers onto the wheel studs until everything clears.
When you've figured out the amount of spacing you need, pull them off and buy a spacer to fit. If it's longer than 1/4", then you'll need longer ($$$$) wheel studs too.

 

That's what I was going to do tonight. I was just checking here to see if anyone had experience with a similar set up.

 

what's your experience with stud-in spacers for 15mm and higher? is it better/safer to buy long studs and use a stud-thru spacer or are stud-in spacers safe enough to trust?

 

on a 15+mm spacer, the only way to do it is the stud-in spacers. otherwise they just get too long (you'll need a 3+" long stud at that point!), and then they're weaker than the stud-in stuff.

you shouldn't need to go that far on spacers through. more like 1/4" or so for what you're doing.

 

well i meant for my car. i don't have tires on my wheels yet but i might need some thickish spacers when it's all said and done. i have my doubts about running 275's on a 9" wheel with 44mm of offset

 

PICS?!?!

 

I've been running 22 mm stud-in spacers for about 6-7 years now with no problems. I have a really nice set though, hub-centric and all that stuff. Built by Fred Goeske himself

 

if you are referring to my 275's, i'm talking about my z, not maxima. haven't bought the tires yet but that's what i will run as long as i get another shell that has the wider rear fenders (86+)

 

actually i was reffering to cardana.. but.. if u wanna post pics feel free.

 

so according to the washers I need about 3/8", 10mm more clearance to get the tires off of the struts in the rear. So, do I need stud in spacer, wheels spacers or do I need a 10mm wheel spacer and longer wheel studs. Is there a standard lengnth longer wheel stud? Is it about 10mm longer than stock? Any good spots to buy them? Thanks for the advice.

 

in due time

 

i have seen stud-in 10mm spacers, BUT.. they will only work if your wheel has empty space where the studs and nuts can go up into them since they will not be flush with the face of the spacer. if your wheels do have them then you should be ok.

 

I'm running 15mm studs on the rear in my 5th gen. I had to get a set of Nismo 60mm studs from Courtesy to fit with the stock wheels and the spacers.

 

How long are the stock studs?

 

Not sure of the length, but the rear studs stick out further than the fronts. I had to trim a cm or two off my rear studs because my wheels don't have the pockets in the back and so it was preventing the wheels from sitting flush.

 

Don't remember how long the stock ones are, but the NISMO studs are at least 10mm longer. I'm running the shorter of the nismo studs on my car with 10mm spacers and everything is happy.

The fun part is that you'll need to pop a wheel stud off EACH wheel hub and check the knurl diameter on your car. The older wheel hubs have one knurl diameter and thew newer ones have a different diameter. My rear hubs are different, as I replaced one of them about five years ago.

so pull a couple off and then buy the studs from Nissan based on what you find when you pull them apart.

 

I have no freakin' clue what knurl diameter is. I have replaced wheels studs before but it has always just been with a stock replacement from Advanced Auto.

Does anyone know which ones work for the rear of a third gen?

 

according to rockauto, the dorman stock replacements for the rear have a 12.83mm diameter

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&a=FR42-610378

From looking around, it seems that a xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Edit by Matt93SE... INCORRECT not even going to let bad info like this say posted. some idiot will try it and kill themselves.

 

So will these work? According to courtsey they fit all nissans except for a certian list.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo-l...-p-228102.html

 

i dunno... from what i've heard the 3rd gen uses different knurl (serrated part) sizes depending on some criteria (either year alone, or engine, or something).. it would suck to buy them only for them to not fit.

 

I see that our cars use different sizes from the front to the rear. I am not finding where they use differnt sizes in the rear across the generation. Is the Knurl dia. stampted on the the back of the stock studs? I can pull one out tonight if it is. I just need to know how I can varify it. I have a digital caliper at home that I can also use. I was just hoping to get these things in the mail today. I assume someone on the forum has replaced the rear studs on their third gen. and may know the answer to this.

 

this might help..

http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[40222]+\%28j30&cPath=1610_1611_1700_1701

http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[43222]+\%28j30&cPath=1610_1611_1700_1703

 

links to stock front and rear wheel studs?

 

Let me repeat myself.

The best thing for you to do is pull a stud out of EACH of YOUR wheel hubs and check the knurl diameter. the dial caliper will work just fine.
The Maxima originally had different knurl diameters front and rear, BUT if you've replaced any of your wheel hubs, they may be different now. I put a new OEM hub in my car a while back and the studs are a different diameter than the original 1993 hub.
IIRC, the fronts were 14mm and one rear was 13mm. the other (replacement) hub was 14mm.

Because of that and the fact your car is 20 years old and you haven't had it since new so you don't know if the hubs have been replaced or not, CHECK YOUR OWN HUBS BEFORE ORDERING. It will save you time and pain later. been there, done that.

As for which ones you have, they're pretty easy to see visually...
look at the difference in these two pics:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo-l...-p-227828.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo-l...-p-227851.html

See how the knurled part is larger on the second pic? they are the 14.3mm knurl. the first pic is the 13mm knurl. Pop a stud out of each wheel hub- or even pull a brake rotor off and you might be able to visually see it.. don't know- been a while since I've done it.

Also.. a 45mm stud IS NOT LONG ENOUGH to run a 15mm spacer. That's so dangerous I'm going to ban you if you even begin to argue. The factory studs are about 45mm long, and they're only good for about a 1/4" (6mm) spacer. anything longer than that and you need longer studs.
for a 3/8" (10mm) spacer, you need at least the 50mm studs. it can't hurt to just get the 60mm studs and then you can run whatever spacer you want. might have to get different lugnuts with open ends, but it will be much safer than trying to run on a stud that's too short and risk losing a wheel.

 

what is the best way to remove a stud that you want to re use? I have always just banged them out with a hammer but I was always replaced them. Do you just take a chance of bending them and replace them with new ones?

 

how about these?
http://www.frsport.com/Project-Kics-...d_p_15005.html

This is about the same cost of extended wheel studs and hubcentric spacers, and it is less work since I would not have to install extended wheel studs. What do you guys think about these? Anything bad about these? Would I need the hollow space in the center of the wheel like caped was talking about?

 

I wouldn't want to run those simply because they're not hubcentric.

To run those, you'd definitely need wheels with the hollow spaces. Any adapter-type spacer less than about 18mm and you'll need wheels with the hollow spaces.

 

Since I am not infront of my wheels right now, I googled imaged some pictures. I am pretty sure I do not have that space. I am going home to pull out a stud, then I will just order the nismo studs from the dealer. I will still need to pick up a 5x114.3 10mm hub centric spacer though, so I am open to suggestions.

 

What James said. you need something more like this, but I don't like the Ichiba stuff- heard bad things from the guys who drive hard on them.. Maybe if you can find some H&R or Eibach ones...

http://www.frsport.com/Ichiba-NS-502...mm_p_8969.html

As for how to remove the old studs, put the flat side of a regular lugnut facing out and screw it down to where the wheel stud is just barely recessed in the center of the lugnut. (or find another 12 x 1.25mm nut with a flanged head on it. I have a box of them from other projects..) This spreads the load out and down the threads vs. just hitting it on the end and destroying the last thread on the stud.

I also recommend using a large,heavy hammer. usually I use a 10lb sledge. hold the handle vertically over the stud and line up the face so it sits perfectly flush with the front of the nut. then just pull it back and give it a small whack (vs. a large, inaccurate swing with a ball peen hammer) and the stud usually pops loose.

Then just unscrew the nut and push the stud out the back.
make sense?

If you have removed the backing plates like I have, you can usually pop the studs out from the back without even pulling the rotor off.

 

I'll post more tomorrow. I have measurements on the studs. Now more importantly how do you go about repairing a rounded out lug stud hole? Should I just wait for the extended studs then spot weld it in? Long story short I messed up some threads knocking the wheel studs out and when trying to put one of them back in I guess the screwed up threads/crossing threading caused me to spin the splines in the hole, so it wiped the splines on the stud and the hole...lame. Advice?

 

those g35 wheels?

 

not that i'm aware of.. probably mustang wheels or something. i just found it on google.

edit:

TL type-S wheels http://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735118

 

If they're the 13mm studs, you can drill it out with a 14mm drill bit. (14.3mm = 9/16" BTW. you want to just just a tad smaller than that). so I used a 14mm bit and drilled out the smaller bore. pressed in the 14.3 stud and called it a day.
If that doesn't work, then pop in the new stud and tack weld it into place. just a couple little tacks to hold things in place- don't want to ruin the heat treatment on the whole stud.

 

I think I will just have it tack welded in once I get my extended studs. Until they get here I will just run four studs on the left rear.

When I pulled my rear studs out last night I took a few measurements. Both sides the diameter was 12.5mm so I assume this is considered the 13mm stud. I also check the lengnth just because I was curious, and they measured ~41mm

So with those measurements do you guys think I am safe in ordering the 13mm Nismo 60mm extended studs?

 

Yup. you'll be fine.
the 12.5 is because the top of the knurled part gets knocked down a tad when you press them into the wheel hub.

If it's a rear hub that's been damaged, you might just grab another from the junk yard vs. half-*** repairing that one. I figure they should be $20 or so from the junker. just grab one and press the new studs in, then swap them out on your car and call it a day.

 

I have a full stock suspension set up in my barn. I just assumed swaping over hubs is not that straight forward (never done it before). What work is required? I was worried I would have to have new bearing pressed in.

I just ordered a 10mm 5x114.3 hubcentric spacer. I am waiting for my dealer to call me back on the nismos studs.

 

wait.. front or rear? on the rear it's easy, you just pop the grease cap off, take out the cotter pin, and undo the big nut holding the hub on. it's machined for a precise fit but it slides without a problem. just pull the busted one off, put the good one on and that should be that. new cotter pin of course.

 

oh wow...okay, yeah rear. I guess I will give it a shot tonight.

I went ahead and ordered the 60mm studs from Courtsey, they said they had one more set in stock. I'll post back after I try swapping hubs.

 

Swapping rear hubs is caaaaake.
pull wheel, caliper, rotor, undo dust cap, remove nut- 32mm IIRC- slide off. clean old grease off. apply layer of new grease. install "new" hub. torque to spec (it's in the FSM). reassemble brakes. done.

it's a 5-10 min job once you get the wheels off.