Repairing OEM spoiler
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,134
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Repairing OEM spoiler
I'm at the point where I want to reinstall my spoiler. Several years ago I took it off when I got the car painted. The spoiler was also panted seperately.
Today I got new trunk grommets
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4004_large.jpg
The underside of the spoiler seems to be okay. It's not rusted out like some of the ones we've seen
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4001_large.jpg
Before reinstalling the spoiler, I wanted to see if there's anything I can do to the underside of the spoiler to make it more structural sound and last longer. I did a search and someone mentioned pouring self leveling cement on the underside.
Here's his thread and pic
http://forums.maxima.org/4163886-post1.html
Keep in mind I'm not planning on removing the plastic clips in my spoiler, I just want to use something to delay rust and to make it stronger. What's your thought?
Today I got new trunk grommets
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4004_large.jpg
The underside of the spoiler seems to be okay. It's not rusted out like some of the ones we've seen
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4001_large.jpg
Before reinstalling the spoiler, I wanted to see if there's anything I can do to the underside of the spoiler to make it more structural sound and last longer. I did a search and someone mentioned pouring self leveling cement on the underside.
Here's his thread and pic
http://forums.maxima.org/4163886-post1.html
Keep in mind I'm not planning on removing the plastic clips in my spoiler, I just want to use something to delay rust and to make it stronger. What's your thought?
Hmm.. I've never seen that self-leveling concrete post/thread before. Must've been during my extended absence a few years ago.
I'd say that if you were to do the self-leveling filler thing, to insert the mounting hardware before the filler completely dries. I'm not sure I'd want my spoiler hung on with double-sided tape and I'm skeptical that that ever worked properly (again, never saw that before so I'm not sure how that turned out). You could make a template first that way you know exactly where the clips go. But if you aren't going to remove the clips I guess there's no need for that.
I'd say that if you were to do the self-leveling filler thing, to insert the mounting hardware before the filler completely dries. I'm not sure I'd want my spoiler hung on with double-sided tape and I'm skeptical that that ever worked properly (again, never saw that before so I'm not sure how that turned out). You could make a template first that way you know exactly where the clips go. But if you aren't going to remove the clips I guess there's no need for that.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,134
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Hmm.. I've never seen that self-leveling concrete post/thread before. Must've been during my extended absence a few years ago.
I'd say that if you were to do the self-leveling filler thing, to insert the mounting hardware before the filler completely dries. I'm not sure I'd want my spoiler hung on with double-sided tape and I'm skeptical that that ever worked properly (again, never saw that before so I'm not sure how that turned out). You could make a template first that way you know exactly where the clips go. But if you aren't going to remove the clips I guess there's no need for that.
I'd say that if you were to do the self-leveling filler thing, to insert the mounting hardware before the filler completely dries. I'm not sure I'd want my spoiler hung on with double-sided tape and I'm skeptical that that ever worked properly (again, never saw that before so I'm not sure how that turned out). You could make a template first that way you know exactly where the clips go. But if you aren't going to remove the clips I guess there's no need for that.
If I couldn't reuse the mounting clips in my spoiler, I wouldn't be concern with attaching the spoiler with double sided tape. With a good prep work and a quality 3M tape, it should stay stuck for a long time because it's not supporting the weight of the spoiler. Our door molding is applied with tape.
...
If I couldn't reuse the mounting clips in my spoiler, I wouldn't be concern with attaching the spoiler with double sided tape. With a good prep work and a quality 3M tape, it should stay stuck for a long time because it's not supporting the weight of the spoiler. Our door molding is applied with tape.
If I couldn't reuse the mounting clips in my spoiler, I wouldn't be concern with attaching the spoiler with double sided tape. With a good prep work and a quality 3M tape, it should stay stuck for a long time because it's not supporting the weight of the spoiler. Our door molding is applied with tape.
haha, this brings back fond memories of digging all the rusted metal out of my badly warped spoiler. when I got the car, all the clips had detached from the spoiler due to rust and were just chilling out in the trunk holes...
I ended up using this really noxious fiberglass paste, drilling it down after it was dry, and epoxying the clips back into their places. Wish I would've known about the self-leveling stuff... anyway, I tried to use the 3M mounting tape, but it was too warped and kept lifting off the trunk, so I just gunned a bunch of clear silicone caulk under/around it. Kinda ghetto but what can ya do. At least it's not flying around in the wind anymore, lol
I ended up using this really noxious fiberglass paste, drilling it down after it was dry, and epoxying the clips back into their places. Wish I would've known about the self-leveling stuff... anyway, I tried to use the 3M mounting tape, but it was too warped and kept lifting off the trunk, so I just gunned a bunch of clear silicone caulk under/around it. Kinda ghetto but what can ya do. At least it's not flying around in the wind anymore, lol
Repairing OEM spoiler
I'm getting ready for a complete paint job on my 1990 SE, and have been looking at the spoiler repair issue in great depth for over a year. IMO the OEM Nissan spoiler is design flawed from the outset. When they decided to use FOAM instead of fiberglas for the spoiler - plus using that arcane mouting system on the outer tips. Nissan's design allowed water beneath the spoiler mounts which not only corroded the mounting clips and trunk lid, but allowed water to wick up into the entire spoiler and rot the structual rods. Below is a photo from old post (called Spoiler Rot if recall).

Yesterday, I ordered a fiberglass factory style spoiler from Wings West International, their Part No 49148L. $188 plus shipping (was $48 to me in OK). Looks just like the OEM spoiler, but is fiberglass with studs cast in. Studs in the center match the OEM trunk lid holes, but I'll have to drill for the studs at the ends. I'm planning to use a soft Black 2 part Flexible Urethane putty, Shore durometer 60A, to make a water tight seal at all mounting locations. Apply mould realease to the trunk lid, apply to putty to the spoiler areas that contact the trunk lid, and mount the spoiler with nuts just hand tight and allow to cure. Then remove the spoiler for painting. The Flexible Urethane putty is McMaster-Carr Part No 8644K18, and the spray mould release is McMaster-Carr Part No 1409K34.
Before I abandoned the idea, here is what I had planned. I was going to use the same general idea as the "Self Leveling Cement Fix" post, but with bolts cast in and different materials:
1. Brownells Acraglas Gel: 1st cast, to fix bolts in place.
2. McMaster-Car 8644K18 Flexible Urethane 94A: 2nd cast to fill like the self leveling cement shown in photo below.
3. The same soft Urethane putty I'm using for the new spoiler.
Below is a composite photo from the old Self Leveling Cement post, but with bolt (or stud) locations added in red.

Yesterday, I ordered a fiberglass factory style spoiler from Wings West International, their Part No 49148L. $188 plus shipping (was $48 to me in OK). Looks just like the OEM spoiler, but is fiberglass with studs cast in. Studs in the center match the OEM trunk lid holes, but I'll have to drill for the studs at the ends. I'm planning to use a soft Black 2 part Flexible Urethane putty, Shore durometer 60A, to make a water tight seal at all mounting locations. Apply mould realease to the trunk lid, apply to putty to the spoiler areas that contact the trunk lid, and mount the spoiler with nuts just hand tight and allow to cure. Then remove the spoiler for painting. The Flexible Urethane putty is McMaster-Carr Part No 8644K18, and the spray mould release is McMaster-Carr Part No 1409K34.
Before I abandoned the idea, here is what I had planned. I was going to use the same general idea as the "Self Leveling Cement Fix" post, but with bolts cast in and different materials:
1. Brownells Acraglas Gel: 1st cast, to fix bolts in place.
2. McMaster-Car 8644K18 Flexible Urethane 94A: 2nd cast to fill like the self leveling cement shown in photo below.
3. The same soft Urethane putty I'm using for the new spoiler.
Below is a composite photo from the old Self Leveling Cement post, but with bolt (or stud) locations added in red.
Nissan wants an arm and a leg for their crummy foam spoiler ($318.53 + shipping at Courtesy Nissan). Take a better look at the "Spoiler rot" photo in my post. Go with Wings West or Stillen. Cheaper and better. You got to have it painted either way. No Advantage at all going with the OEM spoiler.
Nissan wants an arm and a leg for their crummy foam spoiler ($318.53 + shipping at Courtesy Nissan). Take a better look at the "Spoiler rot" photo in my post. Go with Wings West or Stillen. Cheaper and better. You got to have it painted either way. No Advantage at all going with the OEM spoiler.
first; rmax, what part of OK?
second, I cannot imagine that self leveling cement is stronger than the 2-part epoxy I used to "fix" mine. that was about two years ago, and it broke six months ago.
currently in the market for a black gxe trunk lid, gonna go without.
Shiloh, the stillen looks sick, as well as the ww. neither will be a bad choice, as long as it's not that foot-tall one they (hopefully "used to") sell.

second, I cannot imagine that self leveling cement is stronger than the 2-part epoxy I used to "fix" mine. that was about two years ago, and it broke six months ago.
currently in the market for a black gxe trunk lid, gonna go without.
Shiloh, the stillen looks sick, as well as the ww. neither will be a bad choice, as long as it's not that foot-tall one they (hopefully "used to") sell.

Last edited by BenStoked; Oct 2, 2010 at 12:23 PM.
I SURE HOPE you meant to say "slick" and not "sick" referring to the West Wings spoiler I just bought. WW Site photo was very small (low resolution), but I remembered old positive posts about West Wings spoilers (make that real old posts)
. But not the old Dodge Charger style "Whale Wing" you're showing.

i remember a month or so ago posting something like "buy this one
" and IIRC it was James92SE that whipped out some old school pics of one of his 3rd gens with the spoiler
BenStoked, I'm in Tulsa, Oklahoma.
I SURE HOPE you meant to say "slick" and not "sick" referring to the West Wings spoiler I just bought. WW Site photo was very small (low resolution), but I remembered old positive posts about West Wings spoilers (make that real old posts)
. But not the old Dodge Charger style "Whale Wing" you're showing.
I SURE HOPE you meant to say "slick" and not "sick" referring to the West Wings spoiler I just bought. WW Site photo was very small (low resolution), but I remembered old positive posts about West Wings spoilers (make that real old posts)
. But not the old Dodge Charger style "Whale Wing" you're showing.so, sick, slick, yeah, ww and stillen (oem-ish) are good in my book.
not so much for the ricer wing(s).
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