So I got my clutch and flywheel off to replace my rear main seal. I noticed the rear main seal retainer was all oily too and the whole block above the rear main seal is virtually completely caked in oil (i.e., doesn't look like it's just the rear main seal leaking). This was after I spent a good amount of time degreasing. You can see the rear main seal retainer area is all caked in RTV.



Per Courtesy Parts it looks like this piece should just use a normal gasket (12296E):

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1612_1615.html

http://www.courtesyparts.com/12296e-...-p-183316.html

I think I'll just go ahead and replace this for peace of mind and sine I'm doing the oil pan and rear main seal too I might as well. I would really hate to opt to NOT do this and find out later on it's leaking.

Anyway, I can't find a procedure anywhere in the FSM for this (unless I'm missing it). I have the older FSM with no index or anything so it's kind of hard to find stuff. I did go through the entire EM section and found nothing. Does anybody know for certain whether or not this piece uses JUST the gasket? Or is it a gasket+bits of RTV like on the oil pan. I don't recall seeing any RTV on this this part on any of my other VEs. I wonder if somebody did all the RTV on it as a band-aid or if they did it in lieu of the gasket at some point.

Also, looks like the bolts are labeled "7" and according to the FSM these bolts are to be torqued 32 ft. lbs since they're head style bolts and not flange bolts - sound right?

 

On yours I can see the paper gasket underneath all the RTV. it almost always comes off in pieces, but they're like $1.50 so you should replace it. you'll have to remove the entire thing to replace the rear main seal. I always put a light coat of RTV on both sides of the paper seal and then a shload of it around the rubber lip seal. I haven't had any leak that way, and it helps make things go back together a tad easier. pressing that thing back into place while the oil pan is on the engine is a PITA. best to do it while the oil pan is off.

Part of the instructions are on EM-68 in the '94 FSM. at the end of the oil seal section.

Torque specs are 4.6- 6.1 ft-lb for those little guys. (remember, the bolt diameter is NOT the socket size. it's the diameter of the threads. these are like M4 or M6, not M10.)
Torque specs are shown on the cylinder block page. EM-80 in my FSM.




edit.. for the VG, it's EM-18 for the instructions and EM-35 for the exploded view of the block. what's strange is the VG doesn't show a torque spec on those bolts where the VE does. error during publication I guess. The specs should be the same on both engines since it's a nearly identical part (if not identical..)

more edit.. STRANGE... the VG section shows removing the entire bracket from the block and pressing the seal out.
The VE section shows the seal being pried out of the bracket while it's still bolted to the block.

I've always removed it form the block and replaced the seal on my workbench so I have a nice flat surface to work.

 

Good looking out on the bolt size. I looked at it and saw "10" and I guess I correlated it wrong in my head. Boy, that would've sucked if I torqued those to 30+ ft. lbs and stripped them or something.

Yeah, I've always done the rear main seal on the car with no issues. But I would guess now maybe this explains why this retainer piece has been off/messed with before - if it's common to remove the whole thing to replace the seal. Of course, this could have been 100k miles ago for all I know. Something in there was definitely leaking pretty bad so I'll be happy to just do all of it.

Thanks Matt!