OnTheRoad

My manual has a torque of 117-124 ft Ibs for this 12 mm bolt. This seems to be high for a 12 mm bolt and higher than for a 12.9 bolt.

What grade is it and is that why the manual says replace instead of reuse? I don't know anybody who actually replaces instead of reuses.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Can't tell you much on why they spec those, but I've never had a problem with those bolts stripping, breaking, or anything and I've had my suspension apart more than probably anybody here. still using the original 20 yr old bolts and I torque them down an impact wrench set on 'obliterate.'

OnTheRoad

How tight is obliterate? I've broke left handed lug nuts by hand lossening the wrong direction. Didn't think that a 12 mm bolts can with stand over 400 ft Ibs without breaking. Impact wrenches 70 ft Ibs for 3/8" wrench or 150 to 700 ft Ibs for 1/2" impact. I was thinking to back off the torque by 5 to 10% for a de-rated bolt for reusing. The after market name brand bolts seems to vary in quality 10.9 and 12.9 grade within the Moog brand and different design with the same part number. IMHO some had poor design -- welded pin instead of a forged or machined cam. The pin seems like a high stress point and possible area for bolt failure. I was also told of lots of counterfeit bolts.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Yeah, stay away from the camber bolts. they're called "crash bolts" for multiple reasons.
If you insist on using them, get one from a 95+ Maxima that's designed for the 14mm bolt holes, then enlarge your strut and knuckle to a 14mm.

As for the factory bolts, I've had to remove them by jumping on the end of a 3' cheater pipe. And they weren't rusted. since I weigh 230lb x 3' x 2 for jumping, that's about 1500 ft lb to break them loose. I doubt they were torqued that tight from the factory, but they were still a good 3-400ft lb.

when I put those together on cars, I just set the impact to its highest setting (rated to like 600ft lb, but it really only puts out about 200.... they're ALL over rated.) and zap them into place.

OnTheRoad

I already installed the 12 mm crash bolt, but might be willing to enlarge the holes.

How long does it take to drill out a 14mm id hole in ~1.5 inches of steel. I only have a 1/2 MILWAUKEE angle drill for this and no bits that size. No drill press and will likely try drilling it out on the car. Or will this be too hard?

Possible drilling out 14mm hole only on the two sides so the factory 12mm bolt can be used.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

For what it's worth, I've been running the same set of Specialty Products camber bolts for 10 years now with no problems at all on 3 different 3rd gens.

OnTheRoad

I saw 3 different types of Specialty Products camber bolts for the 3rd generation Maxima. First 2 with 10.9 grade bolt with pin welded as the cam and another with a plastic cam. The third was like the Axis camber bolt, one was 10.9 grade and other with a 12.9 grade bolt. I think the manufacturing might be contracted out.

Good to hear that your going on 10 years without a failure. What was the torque used and torque recommended on the SP camber bolt? Did you install once and finished or readjusted x times?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

The kit I have definitely does not have a plastic cam. When I bought the kit I don't recall there being three different kits so I'm not sure which one mine is.

I have no clue at all on the torque rating. When I put them in I just install them myself and tighten them down pretty hard, then take it to the alignment shop to have them adjust them perfectly (make to to verify with your shop first that they know how to work with them). I've had them off the car, realigned, installed on another car etc. probably dozens of times over the years. They haven't shown any visible signs of wear or anything.

OnTheRoad

Thanks James. Glad to heard they are working after re-use. One alignment shop refused to adjust aftermarket camber bolt on my Seinna (17mm bolt, so no fear of over torquing).

On the types of bolts, the funny looking on with the pin was from Moog not SP. SP and Moog had the one with the plastic inserts on a thinner bolt (12mm to 10 mm). (called Magna Cam by another brand). I was told that too many people miss install the plastic insert. I didn't see much value in plastic insert kits over a 2 mm thinner bolt. The solid metal with forged cam is a new design. The real value is in the washer with the off-set tab to stabilize the thinner bolt in the hole. A better design from Nissan would of been slot holes instead of round holes in the strut pocket.

Is the caster (now too neg, 0.6) and SAI (now too positive, 17.3) using the camber knuckle bolt? Those two are now out of spec after installing them. I wont