BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

yeah im a little surprised myself it lasted this long but James gave me the idea to drill in some self tapper screws from the buttom to bolt up to that mount you see. I got dead on with just one self tapper and I literally felt the bracket raise up towards that mount. It was an idea to get me going until i could weld it.

Man..that first month I tried that it literally felt like my tranny had 0 miles it was sooooo smooth..as time went on the bracket became looser and smoothness was compromised.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

The only way to really fix it is to weld it and be done with it.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

thanks, still trying to figure out what to do about removing the clutch assembly tho so they cld weld it...tho mine looks like there still some viable metal on the bottom so maybe it cld be welded with it on?

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

brang it to the "recommended" welder today and had him take a look at it. He tells me to pop my hood...so he could see whats on the opposite side of the clutch assembly/mount..then he proceeds to tell me that plastic bug guard thing has gotta come off nd the wipers too before he welds..cuz it cld catch on fire...on top of that he said he would need the car for the day..aswell as $350... Tho im pretty sure that included HIM taking off the assembly and putting it back on, regardless no thanks..


I try a couple of other shops I havent been to. Finally come across one guy who seemed confident and said yah sure I could do it just come back tomorrow, all i'd need to do is remove more of that insulation to clear out of his way and remove the clutch assembly which i told him I'd probably do right outside of his shop then push the car in.

one thing im a lil foggy on is once its removed(clutch assembly) and he puts a lil metal plate there, do i reinstall assembly then have him weld that to the new bottom part . im guessing he'll know wut to do it was almost as if he's seen somthing like that before meanwhile everyone else i showed my car too looked like they were seeing a ghost.

VEvolution

I really hope tommorrow that clutch assembly won't be a PITA to remove. Im going in there with a positive mind set. James, how was it to remove?

a 1/4 mile at a time and self tapper screws

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

lol!

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

loll * fingers crossed **

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

It's not bad at all with the dash out. Just a few bolts/nuts. Make sure to remove the clevis pin from the clutch master cylinder otherwise you won't be able to get the clutch pedal assembly out.

Moe.. You can either have the welder weld the assembly to the new piece of metal or just have him weld the metal on there and then you can attach the pedal assembly yourself with a large self tapping screw or screws. Ideally, the welder would weld a nut onto the inside so you could just screw a bolt through it just like stock. For the guy wanting $350, I'd definitely insist on this.. Though that still seems way too high for the tiny bit of welding required

If you have him weld it, I would make sure your assembly is in good shape and not too tweaked. Otherwise you'll have a persistent squeaking/creaking constantly because the assembly will be warped/tweaked but then forced over into the original position with the weld. That make sense? Though it might not be an issue at all. Mine was pretty tweaked and I welded it into the original position and ended up with a persistent "click" noise each time I engaged he pedal but it wasn't a big deal.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

thanks a lot for the response bro it's currently in the shop right now I went to someone else who seemed very confident and didnt think twice bout doing the job he wants $150 thats doable for me so ill try to be optimistic. I would have loved to go to the guy who wanted $350 because he has over 30 years experience but hes the type of guy to not wana work on a job like this if hes not getting paid big bucks =/ he doesnt wana waste his time..and i dont even have $350...

This guy tho doing it for me said we wldnt nessecarily need to remove the clutch assembly he thought of the idea of putting a mini jack underneath and pushing it up to the mount (after removing the screws of course ) and then proceed to basically weld around it where the assembly and mount meet. He mentioned something about putting a metal plate on after on both as like reinforment..tho that idea was a lil cloudy... I know your probably thinking, why the hell is he not doing the way you recommened and its pretty much cuz it was this guys way or the highway..or charge me more..which I dont have. Tho honestly theres a lot of viable metal on the "bottom of the box", theres just a semi small hole around that nut but it looks like theres a lot of metal around it...im hoping this kind of weld will work out.

Yeah I think my assembly is in pretty good condition I mean the squeeks I read up on are pretty common and its because of some spring within it IIRC but I been driving around like that for ever now im passed it, other then that it is slightly slanted but i figured that because its been slowly falling off the mount I imagine welding it would put it back into its place like you mentioned.

thanks a lot tho for the info and opinions i just got a call right now im gonna go pick it up and i hope all is well will give update soon!

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

Got the car back feels great! The welder put in a new washer&nut like you assumed james. Looks like he got a nice clean weld job too but im no expert so ill let the pics speak for that . As far as shfting goes it feels nice and smooth, the pedal looks nice and sturdy doesnt move at all wen depressing clutch.

He noticed my pedal needed some adjusting, I also always thought there was way too much free play in it. I recently started researching threads about that and actually came across your thread with this very same problem lol it was interesting reading your original post about it possibly being the slave or master. Its still a lil foggy to me tho but i'll figure it out.

Oh and this guy said he noticed my brake assembly was a lil on its way out to becoming loose..and as a courtesy spot welded it too while everything was all off. idk..if it was nessecary..but i guess its good right.

thanks again btw guys for your patience and help!

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

interested in hearing your thoughts about the weld!

http://imageshack.us/g/807/1312476320317.jpg/

VEvolution

Looks and feels like a sturdy weld mate. Funny how they left that little self tapper still there. Too lazy to remove it?

Im glad this worked out and hopefully it lasts. Thanks a bunch James, and everyone else who helped out. We also banged out the heater core after some confusion on how the hell it comes out. That bar should definitily be moved out of the way, and if I could go back, I might not have removed the Evap box. I just thought it was all one peice.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

sigh..just a couple of weeks after believing i was tranny problem free im yet again experiencing shifting problems.

In thr last week or so my shifting has become.very notchy and sticky as if the shifter itself be being binded to somthing. Problem was an intermitent problem at first but now its getting progressively worse. I checked the clutch pedal and mount and its still 100% sturdy since they welded it, im sure thats not the problem instead i believe its the shift linkage because thats pretty much the only thing left i havent checked tho i dont exactly know what to check for.

A good friend of mine and also veteran org member Brudda bob test drove my Ve just the other day and he also felt that the shifting felt sticky( as if it were being binded froom a worn gear/shift linkage ) he could def feel the tranny is a good tranny tho hes drivin so many 5 spds he cld jus feel it.

Anyway when I looked underneith at the linkage itself while i had Veevolution change the gears from.inside the car i didnt really see much play in the shift linkage but then again i dont know exaxtly what wld happen if the linkage was good or bad.

I also popped out the shifter boot inside the car to see if maybe somthin was binding there and i found a cracked rubber with a.nut in it i wasnt exactly sure what it does but i took some pics..I could be wrong and was told maybe the clutch needs adjusting.or possible needs.bleeding.but answer this..How come 2 weeks after a perfect clutch assembly weld and my car was shifting perfect then outa no where it starts acting all notchy? Keep in mind the sturdyness in the clutch is the same also when we jacked the car up in the air i was able to run through all the gears smoothly but when it was on the groundit was sticky again.I would seriously ãppreciate help as soon as possible please i dont wana risk drivig my car around like this and school starts in days!

VEvolution

It was notchy up in the air too. It was smooth on and off. Where the pics at?

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

here are some pics of the shift linkage idk maybe you guys can see somthing i cant idk if the bushing inside that linkage is what needs to b replaced then i also took a pic of whats underneath the shifter in the xar idk if that means anything.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...190603825.jpg/

VEvolution

Theres a nice little crack on that rubber bushing looking thing in front of the shifter where that bolt is. There is some play in that bushing when you go to shift. Anyone know the purpose of that thing or if maybe it could be causing these shifting issues?

Bklynsmoe, there were some nice upclose shots there too.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

i hope someone has some nice feedback or a nice steer in the right direction..tranny doesnt even have 100k on it yet :/

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

That rubber thing you keep referring to is called a shifter bushing. You can replace it with a new one from Courtesy or poly fill the one you already have. Try re-greasing the ball on the shift rod. While you got that out check the bushing at the bottom of the rod where it connects to the linkage. I have a good feeling that its that shifter bushing.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

!!!!! thankssss! !! i personally wldnt be able to remove that shifter rod and greaseeee it but friendly local shop cld give it a wack..

Alright so you say while the rod is off check the bushing that connects to it, how does one check? Just see if its torn or cracked?

So you believe its the shifter bushing the part thats in the car? do you happen to have the part # for that and the shift linkage bushing? I get a lil worried somtimes im ordering the wrong part but same name..thanks again maximo ur a hugee help

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Actually you can.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I did mine. Remove the heat shield above the cat. There you will expose linkage to rod. There is one bolt that connects the rod to the linkage. Once disconnected you can move to the interior. Get back to the step that you had in the pic. The housing for the shifter bushing is held in by 4 bolts (I believe they are 10mm). After removing that you expose the retainer for the ball (brown/ rusty looking bracket surrounding the ball in your pic). I believe those 2 are 12mm. After removing that wiggle and twist shift rod a bit and it should be free. There is a 2 piece plastic shroud around the ball. Separate and lubricate. (wow that sounded dirty). Perform in reverse for install. While your at it if you desire you can modify your stock shifter to a diy short throw shifter if it hasn't already been done.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Wait now that I think about it. Michael has a thread with a write up dedicated to doing this with pics.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

i can grease it myself? i mean just jacking it up and going underneath is fine? its so tight to work underneith the car with my drop..idk ive never done that before ill just be wasting my time thats a lil advnced for me..(removing the rod part and putting it back how i found it)

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Its easier done than said as long as theres no rigging already done. I did once on my own, but then again I've been known to jump feet first into stuff. Its pretty self explanatory. Your drop has nothing to do with this. My car has a 2" drop= low as **** and I performed replacing my shifter bushing and shorting my shifter without much of a problem. If you can sit there an figure out how to remove the upper intake manifold this would be nothing to that.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Here you go just follow this. http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...sts-today.html

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

wow totally disregard that post because I was org'ing on my phone and I totally did not see that DIY post you gave me on replacing everything or else I wouldnt have sounded like a whiney baby lol I was jus getting a lil baffled but you definitly cleared things up.. thanks for your patience sorry for the confusion, and awesome thread you looked up for me too.

Sounds like a cool project I need to get started on asap. I've ALWAYS wanted a sts but I wasnt aware I could modify my stock shifter to an sts.Possibly something to consider..

Honestly all I need is the exact list of parts I should be buying right now and i'll get started asap...its just a lil confusing on courtesy they dont quite have the same exact name your giving me...I'd like to replace all possible bushing you recommend while i'm already at it. Is this what im looking for?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/34557-b...4-p-48225.html

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Ah its kool man. Just throw the rod in the oven for 300 degrees for 10 mins. The ball isn't gonna budge that easy out of the stock position bcuz there are notches on the rod that hold it in place. I used a pickle fork to pry it up. 2 good hits and I moved it up just below the bend. Remember its still HOT! from the oven so use mittens. The shifter bushing I'm talking about is part# 34560N Its $35.01. Also when shortening my shifter I had to remove the heat shield above the cat. With as low as I wanted mine and that high flow cat it wouldn't fit without binding.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

IIRC you can't buy a new bushing by itself (and the stock one isnt removable anyway) - you have to buy a whole new assembly, but even that is pretty cheap.

I wouldn't worry about trying to mess with the shift rod/ball. That crack in the bushing is entirely enough to give you bad shifting. Watch that crack as you try to go through the gears, I bet the crack opens up/expands with pressure and the whole shift assembly moves quite a bit. It only takes a few cm of movement to get your shift alignment off-kilter.

Moe, this is exactly what you want here:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/34560n-...4-p-48227.html

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

ah wow thanks for the feedback james im getting a lil overwhelmed tho with the different things to try..should I not grease the spindle underneith the car on the shifting rod or should I be greasing the stick from inside the car like how micheal did in that thread maximo provided..or should I just shoot striaght for replacing the bracket and call it a day.

Honestly I replaced that striking rod boot a couple of months ago and it was properly lubed during the swap I dont see why it would need to be greased again so soon now that I think about it. ( sry prolly shlda mentioned that sooner ) Thought before you mentioned this bracket thing I was thinking about removing my shifter and doing that whole mini project with greaseing the shift stick on the bottom where it meets that rusty bracket.

Let me know your opinion tho, should I might aswell grease the shifter too or im doing extra work. thanks again for the response

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

wait after looking that a lil more carefully im assuming you would still need to disconnect the shifter from the rod underneith to instal that or im just over thinking it..

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

No, see that bolt/nut right in the middle of the rubber bushing? Remove that and the whole shifter assembly/shift rods will just drop down. Put in your new bushing assembly and then raise the shifter/rods back up and bolt it up. It literally won't even take 10 minutes.

Also, a heads up, you may have trouble getting it loose on the old bushing. It will probably just twist the whole rubber around and not actually come loose so you might have to fight with it some.

You can lube the shifter if you want but IMO it will only have a marginal effect. Most of the issue stems from the shift rod bushing in question. But your motor mounts also need to be in good shape as well as making sure the stationary rod is attached securely to the tranny. They can loosen up.

Also, are you sure the tranny is in good shape? Beyond that, Nissan manual transmissions as a whole are generally viewed as being "notchy" anyway, so you may never get rid of it completely. Redline gear oil (MT-90 IIRC) does help to some extent though.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I need to get some Redline

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

Idk why my phone decides to show everyone elses posts timely but yours lol this is wierd anyway thanks for the tips and that valuable info! I think i'm going to replace that bracket first tho honestly before I put any striking rods in my mom's oven and messing around with any of that. I def would do that if the problem remains but I'd personally rather take one step at a time just so I could know for my own peace of mind what exactly was the problem .

I'd probably also prefer to do that when I actually modify my shifter to a short throw one which im still a lil hazy on what exactly needs to be done...

Thanks! I ordered and look foward to feeling the results It's amazing how many different tranny related problems occured to me in the past months (leaky striking rod boot,leaky axle seal,clutch bracket,now this bracket assembly holder lol )tho the tranny itself feels great during those periods of time where im problem free..if that makes sense..hoping this is the last of it for a slightly longer period of time

I'll keep that in mind, with the degree of rust my car has its no surprise I have to fight with it pretty much every job.

My motor mounts are only months old so they're fine and as I mentioned to maximo I would rather swap this bracket assembly before greasing the spindle underneith. Stationary rod = shift linkage rod?

As much as I would hate to say my tranny is in bad shape(cuz I alrdy blew 1) I definitly would still just go ahead and admit it but only if I honestly feel it is performing poorly. BUT! lol when it was first installed it was shifting amazingggggg you could ask VeEvolution he owned the maxima prior for 3 yrs+..he said it shifted better then when he first owned it the car.

The tranny I purchased supposedly was Grade A tested with 60 k on it..I bought it for 500 and the guy did not wana budge literally even 10 or 20 bucks for gas $ to go home(and i have the best bargaining skills lol) he said it shifted perfectly before they pulled it.

Anyway after months of glorious shifting I started having leaks I had no idea where from, shifting smoothness was becoming compromised due to lack of gear oil..then eventually I replaced the striking rod boot and axle seal..then hallajula perfect shifting again at this point I already purchased Redline gear oil and that boosted shifting smoothness exponentionally

Outa no where my clutch bracket started acting up..self tapper it up(temporary fix ftw)..perfect shifting again ..then it became loose ..bad shifting ..So I welded it(cool experience)..perfect shifting again..and now..this lol bracket assembly..Idk if you catch my drift or think im crazy but I let VeEvolution drive it all the time during the problems too and we both feel how during these "problem free" stages the car feels fine.

The other day Brudda bob test drove my Ve and he swore the tranny felt good it was just the shifting from the shifter itself felt like its binded to something or simply something in that paticular area felt funky. To you answer you question tho..i havent driven any other ve 5 spds to agree or disagree with the general concensus of the tranny being "notchy" but I just know during the duration of this one its always been smooth if it wasnt for some lingering problem.


It made hell of a difference also noticed during cold days on a morning start up just after 20 seconds of idle the tranny shifts as if its fully warm nice and smooth..my old gear oil would still be a lil notchy after 5-10 mins of driving on a cold start up.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

How much Redline cost? And where u get it? My friend swears by royal purple but I know Redline is like royal purple for Maximas.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

It varies between $10-13 a quart depending from who, the cheapest for ME is from summitracing considering shipping and all. I hear royal purple is excellent too but IIRC the only problem is they dont make a gear oil thats only gl-4. They have a gear oil with the same weight and viscosity we need except it's designed for gl5 & gl4...which means it has minerals in there that would eat away at the tranny so just go for the redline.its awesome.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Well, there are two rods with the shift linkage. One connects to the strike rod on the transmission (you probably remember this one from changing the strike rod seal) - this one moves. The other is mounted to the transmission and is stationary. It attaches to the transmission case with a bracket that kind of snakes around the passenger side axle seal.

I'm not sure why, but I've had several of these brackets loosen up on me over the years. Grab this rod and check for any wiggle/play. There shouldn't be any. If there is any play it'll mess with your shifting smoothness.

And Chris - I always get my Redline at myoilshop.com. Actually, I bought a couple of cases last go around so I'd be stocked for years to come Redline is the only synthetic oil I've ever known of over the years that is GL-4 specific. Like Moe said, all the other stuff out there is normally GL-5 stuff that claims to "also be compatible" with GL-4 but that's a no go with our copper synchros. Make sure your tranny case is leak-free (good axle seals, strike rod seal, case sealant itself) before going with it. It's a shame to drop this money on it and check it later on and see it dripping out

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Oh no shes good. The only leak I had was the timing cover. I got a hook up at work to give ma an alignment for $25 and I get my inspection there also. Because of where I work I get another hook up at the Midas down the street to weld my muffler on. Then Final peace and quiet. Myoilshop.com Ima have to check that out. Right now I got Napa's stuff in there temporarily.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

Ah ha okay well put. Thats exactly what I was checking for play and didnt find any. Though I asked VeEvolution to shift the gears from within the car while I was looking at the stationary rod from underneath and noticed it wiggled slightly if at all sometimes through shifts idk if thats normal.

Wow really so does that mean that you had to go through the process of removing the dash and re-welding a new bracket or what? I would imagine someone of your expertise would eventually design a reinforced bracket that can last the heavy footed-ness of guys like us . That sucks tho no offence, im interested in hearing what it was like to have it fail after the 1st time. Should I expect this?


Yeah....I learned that -the first car owner - way.

BklynsmoeVE

iTrader: (1)

After 10 long days of waiting for the part =/ it finally comes in except its been raining for days here in nyc. Its not the funnest to be working on your car on the streets but I got fed up of just looking at the part sit there so I decided to get started.

Took off the heat shield over the cat( it was so rusted two of the bolts just broke off as I was loosening..i know I prolly shlda used PB ). I went in the car to start loosening that bolt on the rubber and it just started to spin in place like predicted.I took a look at those bolts holding the bracket from underneith the car and they look seriously rusted. When I put the socket to see if its a 12mm the bolt it self looked like it was crumbling apart...

Should I just spray some pb on it and go ahead and loosen em up im just afraid that they'll break like the heat shield bolts and that bracket will be in there for ever or prolly pay big bucks to remove those broken bolts. what ya think just go for it and hope for the best?