I got error code 51 from my 92 maxima gxe

 

It spits out that code when you try to install Lambo doors.

 

No my check engine light came on for a couple seconds checked for codes and got 51 code

 

I've had a miss for a little while now but always got 55 which is everything ok but now got 51

 

Google Nissan OBD1 codes and see what a code 51 is.

 

 

Code 51 Injector circuit
What's that mean

 

Probably something up with either that sub harness to the 6 injectors under the manifold or somethings up with the harness for the front. Make sure that all the pigtails are connected.

 

Maixmo018 what do you mean

 

And when I put a screw driver on the injector I can hear them tick but I guess that doesn't mean there working

 

If you hear the tick then they are working.

 

Yeah but I've unplugged the spark plug wires one by one and 2&6 don't make a difference

 

Its probably getting a different voltage then it should. You might have a short somewhere touching bare metal. Messed with the harness lately? like moving it around? Old harnesses are very brittle and some right angles had to be designed in so there are stress points where they break. Im betting that you have some bare wire somewhere giving you injectors a pulsating voltage of some kind. Does the code give a specific injector or cylinder #? If not then its part of the main harness. You'll just have to look at it and find whats not right.

 

You unplugged and it doesnt make a difference? WHat does that even mean? The injector circuit has nothing to do with the spark plugs. Totally different wires although they probably run right next to each other over part of the main harness. If you don't even know what the injector circuit is, then I would highly advise you get somebody more experienced to deal with your electrical issues. If you don't know what you are doing you can short something and fry your entire ECU. If its just a bare wire though, wrap it in electrical tape and heat shrink and you should be good

 

I have not messed with the harness and don't I have to take the intake manifold off to get a good look at the injector wires

 

I think he means the idle didn't change when he unplugged those two coils, meaning that those two cylinders aren't firing properly. This may actually help diagnose his situation...

 

code 51 should trigger a check engine light

 

If your code is for the injector circuit then you have a problem with it. Im not familiar with the 3rd gen harness

 

My car don't have coil packs it has cap and rotor and right it didn't change the idle like when I unplugged the others

 

Get yourself a multimeter. Cheap one from Walmart will do.
FSM has a diagnosis procedure. In mine it's page EF & EC 115, but yours may differ. It'll be in the "Troubleshooting Diagnosis" section. The older VG Maximas had different injector plugs, not sure if this will affect the procedure. Someone else might be able to chime in about that.

 

you likely have a dead injector....pull the wire harness connectors off each injector, then stick a ohm meter across the injector prongs....a good injector should read between 11-14 ohms...any reading under/over that will be the bad injector...

 

Will this also cause a loss in power bad gas mileage and the way it hesitates from stop to accelerate

 

Im beginning to think your a troll. Your responses have nothing to do with the previous question or statement

 

If an engine is not running properly (like what your problem is...with bad injectors or w/e)...do you think it would show bad mileage? YES. Would it hesitate during acceleration...YES. if your V6 is not running on all 6 evenly, it will idle like **** and will drive like **** as well...

 

Actually this is really happening dude I've just had different responses from different people

 

Do what Greeny said. You might have to pull the subharness for the injectors to test one of them because of the distributor or intake manifold being in the way. Pinout/picture for it is in the FSM.

 

You can test the front injectors fairly easily. Test its getting power and for continuity back to the ECU. THe resistance should be in spec for your year as well

 

I can find FSM for my 92 maxi gxe does anyone have a PDF for it

 

post #11

click---> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...mbo-doors.html

 

Did the 1992s have 4-prong injectors, or was that only 1989-1991 models?

 

ALL of them were 2 prong injectors...where do you guys get your information..?

 

Greeny knows what he's talking about, follow his advise. VG's are known for having injectors going dead.

 

yeah VG's are known for injector problems, and yes a dead injector will make it run like crap

3rd gens also rarely trigger a CEL

 

See and take action on your other thread too and keep the problem in one single thread

 

I was just joking, the ECM doesn't know that you're turning your car into an exotic

Now, I probably shouldn't be giving you such a hard time about it. After all it was Lambroghini who used Nissan headlights on the Countach..

Anyway, if you have a miss coupled with the error code, then at least one injector is dead, or there is a bad connection causing the open circuit. By dead, I mean infinite resistance. It's rare for this to happen which is why it's rare for injector failure to throw a code. They are usually just out of spec or clogged. Technically extreme corrosion at the injector terminals could cause a miss and throw the code, but not very likely the problem. Find out which cylinder is missing and replace the injector.

 

Well I did everything everyone told me to try and cylinder one had a small leak and cylinder 5 injector connection was bad it would just move around but it didn't fix the stall or hesitation when accelerating but the other night I was drive and the gas pedal was a little more stiff to push down and had a lot more power then the next day it went back the way it always is I was thinking about checking the TPS next

 

Eh?

 

Accelerator pedal tension is nothing more than the cable's adjustment in our cars. I have a VE so I'm not sure if you have to remove the intake plenum in a VG to gain access to the rear injectors. As mentioned, it's better to test 'em with a multimeter for continuity and voltage to lock in the possible problem rather than trying to fix a good component.

 

I already did that and it still miss a little and the weird thing was yesterday was my inside fans stopped working after I turned my car off and the radiator fans only turn on when the defrost is on now

 

if your car is OFF, the cabin fans aren't supposed to run.

Your radiator fans ARE supposed to run when the ac or defrost are on...that's normal.

If you turn the car on and let it sit for 15 mins idling, then it'll get hot enough to turn the radiator fans on automatically due to engine temp alone, with defrost OFF.