Getting back on the road after 1.5 years problems...
Getting back on the road after 1.5 years problems...
After 1.5 years im getting her back on the road... why? you gotta love the 3rd gen... anyways having some trouble... I have a list of things I need help with:
the car is now running...
1. My car is running on 4 cylinders... the two that's on the pass side of the car are not working... yes they are getting fire to them...
2. When you turn the key twice all doors are suppose to unlock... they stopped hear the timer clicking behind the dash the relay must be stuck? went to they jy and the 91 is completely different when it comes to that...
3 the problem that is really getting on my nerves... my battery keeps dieing i have two of them ill charge one and then put the other one it but they dont hold their charge one of them is a optima red top and they other is a interstate...
my dad ran a check on it and there is something that pulling 1.3 amp from the batt when car is off... but i doubt thats enough to kill the battery... what could be the cause of this?
the car is now running...
1. My car is running on 4 cylinders... the two that's on the pass side of the car are not working... yes they are getting fire to them...
2. When you turn the key twice all doors are suppose to unlock... they stopped hear the timer clicking behind the dash the relay must be stuck? went to they jy and the 91 is completely different when it comes to that...
3 the problem that is really getting on my nerves... my battery keeps dieing i have two of them ill charge one and then put the other one it but they dont hold their charge one of them is a optima red top and they other is a interstate...
my dad ran a check on it and there is something that pulling 1.3 amp from the batt when car is off... but i doubt thats enough to kill the battery... what could be the cause of this?
- only running on 4 cylinders most likely means you have 2 bad injectors
- door lock problem may be the door lock timer, does the keypad under your door handle unlock the doors?
- if the battery's are good and holding a charge it has to be the parasitic draw draining them
- door lock problem may be the door lock timer, does the keypad under your door handle unlock the doors?
- if the battery's are good and holding a charge it has to be the parasitic draw draining them
What sup Chrome... long time no see...
-go ahead and just replace the two?
-i never had the code for the keypad but it does light up and when u push any number it beeps light its suppose to
-good news on the battery the optima does hold a charge now...
-go ahead and just replace the two?
-i never had the code for the keypad but it does light up and when u push any number it beeps light its suppose to
-good news on the battery the optima does hold a charge now...
not saying its 100% the injectors, run a few more tests. but most likely being a VG its the injectors
when my door lock timer crapped out, the keypad would still open the trunk and windows but not the door locks. the door lock/unlock buttons inside wouldnt work either. had to use the key to get in and manually unlock or lock the doors from the inside. if your buttons inside dont lock/unlock the doors its probably the timer, if they do work its something else
when my door lock timer crapped out, the keypad would still open the trunk and windows but not the door locks. the door lock/unlock buttons inside wouldnt work either. had to use the key to get in and manually unlock or lock the doors from the inside. if your buttons inside dont lock/unlock the doors its probably the timer, if they do work its something else
i have read of a test for drain is to
try pulling fuses one at a time and see if the draw stops on a certain one,
but on newer cars i guess certain circuits will have some power draw so
this test may be false,heads up
Parasitic draws can take a long time to find. I used to have one on my old Pontiac bonniville and it took me almost a month to find that the wire inside my door that went to the lite key ring holes for the car was the culprit. The fuse test for our cars maybe an ok way to do it, but my guess is that if he is having an issue with the doors like that he may want to do like I am doing now and remove the dash slowly but surely. I have a ground problem in my dash maybe behind the aftermarket stereo someone messed up. I have all the diagrams, I bought both the wiring book and the nissan factory book and I am doing research on what all those issues I am having are. If I come across anything else that may help with that I will let you know. As far as the injectors or only firing on 4 cylinders, any local autozone has a loaner tool for injectors. its a noid light tester, Im not sure if it will do nissans but like dude said, check for resistance, or the only other way to check if they are working is to pull the rail and hook the injectors back up and see if they shoot fuel, but at that much effort miswell replace them. Check the connectors to the injectors too, I had to replace a couple when I did my head gaskets because they got brittle and broke. If its a connector then you dont have enough juice going to the injector.
pulling fuses sounds like a good idea but they optima battery hold a charge now... so batt prob is fixed... still dont know what it was but i will have him check to see if its still pull that.
There are no wires on the door lock timer it's a just big circuit board essentially. You have to resolder a bunch of the joints because they crack, which is what causes them to fail. I've only had mixed results with this and it's incredibly tedious to resolder them
Last I checked a year ago. I thought I had a similar issue but it turns out its my driver door lock (in the door). Its intermittent so I'm not real aggravated yet.
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