short throw shifter/ slop is 5 speed
Pacesetter use to make one but gl finding one now. You should use the search and look back in the 3rd gen section. Michael already discussed this and has a how to with pictures on how to turn your stock shifter into a short shifter (not short throw so much). As for the slop that would be the shifter bushing (black rubber bar with bolt running through it under the shifter trim. I replaced mine with a new one. Its not that expensive from Courtesy.
Yeah, mine fell all apart a few months ago, and it took me a couple of hours to swap.
Granted, I was being stubborn, and didn't drop the exhaust. Would have save me soooo much more time.
aside from my own "laziness," the job was super-simple.
Granted, I was being stubborn, and didn't drop the exhaust. Would have save me soooo much more time.
aside from my own "laziness," the job was super-simple.
Thats how I replaced mine. took me an hour. I didn't feel like dropping the exhaust and putting all that back together. I even got lazy and left my heat shield off.

how do you drive around with no heatshield there my legs get hot just from being next to that plastic there.
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Pacesetter use to make one but gl finding one now. You should use the search and look back in the 3rd gen section. Michael already discussed this and has a how to with pictures on how to turn your stock shifter into a short shifter (not short throw so much). As for the slop that would be the shifter bushing (black rubber bar with bolt running through it under the shifter trim. I replaced mine with a new one. Its not that expensive from Courtesy.
The pacesetter (designed for 3rd gen) is adjustable, but I don't think they make them anymore. None on ebay and the pacesetter site doesn't even show STS at all.
Stillen also made an STS, but it was not adjustable and fairly expensive. There are probably some floating around out there. If you find one it would probably be like a needle in a haystack.
To this day I still have excess heat on the side of the shifter where all that plastic is and the heat shield above the cat is as perfect as it can be. It never use to be like that before I did the job...I feel like heat from the cat is flowing around the shield and getting up there.
how do you drive around with no heatshield there my legs get hot just from being next to that plastic there.

how do you drive around with no heatshield there my legs get hot just from being next to that plastic there.
Plus its Texas its always hotter outside. Remember that hot cat heats up that heat shield. Spray the cat with several coats of high temp ceramic coat paint.
I would not be able to wear pants in texan weather your a real trooper.
Oh wow thanks I wasnt famaliar with that technique/trick or even aware about ceramic coat paint i'll def give that a try. I need a new cat anyway you should see what the bolts look like at the flanges of mine just looks like a slob of rust.
I would not be able to wear pants in texan weather your a real trooper.
I would not be able to wear pants in texan weather your a real trooper.
I'm not trying to saute my legs with that damn thing they call the sun. Im that guy that wears pant most of the year and shorts in the winter. I love the cold!Better yet ceramic coat the cat and heat shield. Use some of that engine high temp enamel if you want.
Alright thats you.
I'm not trying to saute my legs with that damn thing they call the sun. Im that guy that wears pant most of the year and shorts in the winter. I love the cold!
Better yet ceramic coat the cat and heat shield. Use some of that engine high temp enamel if you want.
I'm not trying to saute my legs with that damn thing they call the sun. Im that guy that wears pant most of the year and shorts in the winter. I love the cold!Better yet ceramic coat the cat and heat shield. Use some of that engine high temp enamel if you want.
Alright ill def get on that asap. Yo maximo cld you help me out I dont really want to start a new b.s thread. I see a lot of clutch kit's on ebay and im ready to purchase one. I looked up the ACT one and i realize now it was a joke..cause its like $500..
. Or Idk maybe just one I looked up.I plan on going for the exedy oem clutch kit its about $140..a friend told me that the clutch kit's should come with a new TO bearing but they dont list that...do you recommend this clutch kit and do you happen to know the part# on courtesyparts for TO bearing =).
I was looking at this XTD stage 1 clutch kit for about $110..is going for a stage1 or stage2 really make a difference when it comes to performance or getting that extra umph?
If you buy a clutch off ebay, look up "clutch kit" so it will include the disc, pp, TOB and alignment tool.
I just bought one a couple months ago. It was under $120 for an exedy kit. It was OEM, but I am done driving my car at the track.
I would say unless you buy an ACT or exedy stage 1 or 2, getting one of those "racing" clutches is probably a gamble. I had an ACT and it does provide better grip. It also has a lot stronger pressure plate, which is a bit of a PITA during traffic, but you get used to it.
I just bought one a couple months ago. It was under $120 for an exedy kit. It was OEM, but I am done driving my car at the track.
I would say unless you buy an ACT or exedy stage 1 or 2, getting one of those "racing" clutches is probably a gamble. I had an ACT and it does provide better grip. It also has a lot stronger pressure plate, which is a bit of a PITA during traffic, but you get used to it.
If you buy a clutch off ebay, look up "clutch kit" so it will include the disc, pp, TOB and alignment tool.
I just bought one a couple months ago. It was under $120 for an exedy kit. It was OEM, but I am done driving my car at the track.
I would say unless you buy an ACT or exedy stage 1 or 2, getting one of those "racing" clutches is probably a gamble. I had an ACT and it does provide better grip. It also has a lot stronger pressure plate, which is a bit of a PITA during traffic, but you get used to it.
I just bought one a couple months ago. It was under $120 for an exedy kit. It was OEM, but I am done driving my car at the track.
I would say unless you buy an ACT or exedy stage 1 or 2, getting one of those "racing" clutches is probably a gamble. I had an ACT and it does provide better grip. It also has a lot stronger pressure plate, which is a bit of a PITA during traffic, but you get used to it.
My problem is I need to change the TO bearing when doing the clutch too cause I was told it's right there when replacing the clutch and mine is making a noise that its on its way out. Just cant find the TO bearing on courtesy parts.
yeah thats exactly what I've been looking at going to go with the one you purchased aswell the oem exedy clutch kit. Alright cool thanks for all the valuable info I think im just going to go for oem what I really want is too expensive for my budget right now which is a fidanza flywheel.
My problem is I need to change the TO bearing when doing the clutch too cause I was told it's right there when replacing the clutch and mine is making a noise that its on its way out. Just cant find the TO bearing on courtesy parts.
My problem is I need to change the TO bearing when doing the clutch too cause I was told it's right there when replacing the clutch and mine is making a noise that its on its way out. Just cant find the TO bearing on courtesy parts.
The reason why you can't find it is because its not called a throw out bearing on Courtesy. Its a Clutch Release Bearing part #30502. Also don't forget that its highly recommended that you resurface your flywheel. You could have whom ever does that lighten it when they do the work. Probably won't be as light as a Fidanza, but there should be a change in its performance. I think Matt did this a while ago on his.
Also on courtesy there are two clutch release bearings one for a 89-92 MT and one 89-94 they have the same part #.
I would go with the 89-94. Don't ask my why. I just feel more secure with it. I'd also let a reputable machine shop (expertise) do my flywheel.
Find another OEM shifter, heat the rod and ball up in the oven and slide it down a bit. I did it on my car back in the day. Works great! There is a thread on it somewhere around here, do a search for it.
You mean slide the ball up. This changes the leverage point and gives you more "throw" at the bottom and less at the top. I did this to my stock shifter and it works great
I had a big thing typed out, then found this:
http://mustangforums.com/forum/6764787-post5.html
explains an sts 100x better than I could.
what we are doing "raising the fulcrum and lengthening the shaft below" to achieve a shorter shift throw.
This is a "poor man's mod" but effectively the same as what the name brand parts would do.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/6764787-post5.html
explains an sts 100x better than I could.
what we are doing "raising the fulcrum and lengthening the shaft below" to achieve a shorter shift throw.
This is a "poor man's mod" but effectively the same as what the name brand parts would do.
I had a big thing typed out, then found this:
http://mustangforums.com/forum/6764787-post5.html
explains an sts 100x better than I could.
what we are doing "raising the fulcrum and lengthening the shaft below" to achieve a shorter shift throw.
This is a "poor man's mod" but effectively the same as what the name brand parts would do.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/6764787-post5.html
explains an sts 100x better than I could.
what we are doing "raising the fulcrum and lengthening the shaft below" to achieve a shorter shift throw.
This is a "poor man's mod" but effectively the same as what the name brand parts would do.
I see the point about decreased mechanical advantage, but what you lose in mechanical advantage, you gain in the shorter distance required to shift from one gear to the next, along with a more direct and accurate throw. I do notice this when i go drive my VE with the modified shifter versus my other VE with the completely stock shifter. The modified one shifts more direct and quicker while the stock one shifts more "comfortable" with less effort
Now this would also depend on what the driver is looking to get out of the particular car he/she is driving. If you daily drive the car and sit in stop and go traffic constantly changing gears every day, Id rather have the stock "comfortable" and easy shift. But for a sportier feel and for quicker shifts Id go short throw. Im not saying the short throw is a burden to drive but its all relative
What i did to mine was put the shifter rod/ball assembly in a vice and torched/heated the ball until i could clamp it with a vice grip and slowly moved/shimmied it up the shift rod. I think i only moved it about one half the ball diameter to a full diameters length up the rod. I didnt move it too far because i only wanted a slight change in the shift, and also if you move the ball too much (which lets the lower portion of the rod sit lower under the car) it will hit the cat heat shield. I did have to bang the heat shield to get a little more clearance but everything sits nicely installed and nothing bangs or scrapes, including the cat
Now this would also depend on what the driver is looking to get out of the particular car he/she is driving. If you daily drive the car and sit in stop and go traffic constantly changing gears every day, Id rather have the stock "comfortable" and easy shift. But for a sportier feel and for quicker shifts Id go short throw. Im not saying the short throw is a burden to drive but its all relative
What i did to mine was put the shifter rod/ball assembly in a vice and torched/heated the ball until i could clamp it with a vice grip and slowly moved/shimmied it up the shift rod. I think i only moved it about one half the ball diameter to a full diameters length up the rod. I didnt move it too far because i only wanted a slight change in the shift, and also if you move the ball too much (which lets the lower portion of the rod sit lower under the car) it will hit the cat heat shield. I did have to bang the heat shield to get a little more clearance but everything sits nicely installed and nothing bangs or scrapes, including the cat
I see the point about decreased mechanical advantage, but what you lose in mechanical advantage, you gain in the shorter distance required to shift from one gear to the next, along with a more direct and accurate throw. I do notice this when i go drive my VE with the modified shifter versus my other VE with the completely stock shifter. The modified one shifts more direct and quicker while the stock one shifts more "comfortable" with less effort
Now this would also depend on what the driver is looking to get out of the particular car he/she is driving. If you daily drive the car and sit in stop and go traffic constantly changing gears every day, Id rather have the stock "comfortable" and easy shift. But for a sportier feel and for quicker shifts Id go short throw. Im not saying the short throw is a burden to drive but its all relative
What i did to mine was put the shifter rod/ball assembly in a vice and torched/heated the ball until i could clamp it with a vice grip and slowly moved/shimmied it up the shift rod. I think i only moved it about one half the ball diameter to a full diameters length up the rod. I didnt move it too far because i only wanted a slight change in the shift, and also if you move the ball too much (which lets the lower portion of the rod sit lower under the car) it will hit the cat heat shield. I did have to bang the heat shield to get a little more clearance but everything sits nicely installed and nothing bangs or scrapes, including the cat
Now this would also depend on what the driver is looking to get out of the particular car he/she is driving. If you daily drive the car and sit in stop and go traffic constantly changing gears every day, Id rather have the stock "comfortable" and easy shift. But for a sportier feel and for quicker shifts Id go short throw. Im not saying the short throw is a burden to drive but its all relative
What i did to mine was put the shifter rod/ball assembly in a vice and torched/heated the ball until i could clamp it with a vice grip and slowly moved/shimmied it up the shift rod. I think i only moved it about one half the ball diameter to a full diameters length up the rod. I didnt move it too far because i only wanted a slight change in the shift, and also if you move the ball too much (which lets the lower portion of the rod sit lower under the car) it will hit the cat heat shield. I did have to bang the heat shield to get a little more clearance but everything sits nicely installed and nothing bangs or scrapes, including the cat
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...sts-today.html
I just read it and realized he didn't modify the stock shifter just got an aftermarket 4th gen shifter from ebay. Actually I did both modifying the stock and 4th gen sts. The 4th gen sts is whats in there now. (Just wanted something more legit)
I just read it and realized he didn't modify the stock shifter just got an aftermarket 4th gen shifter from ebay. Actually I did both modifying the stock and 4th gen sts. The 4th gen sts is whats in there now. (Just wanted something more legit)
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...sts-today.html
I just read it and realized he didn't modify the stock shifter just got an aftermarket 4th gen shifter from ebay. Actually I did both modifying the stock and 4th gen sts. The 4th gen sts is whats in there now. (Just wanted something more legit)
I just read it and realized he didn't modify the stock shifter just got an aftermarket 4th gen shifter from ebay. Actually I did both modifying the stock and 4th gen sts. The 4th gen sts is whats in there now. (Just wanted something more legit)
So it wasn't my bushing that made it bad with slop. Where the linkage connects to the tranny one of the bolts was loose and the spring that connect the linkage together that keeps the shifter in the middle in nutural was disconnected so I just put the spring back and tightin the bolt and wala fixed lol thanks guys. But I still want to do the short throw



