I was at the store and my friend stayed in the car, we came back to the car and she unlocked the door from inside, no big deal right? Well apparently since I bought the car used I thought the alarm was not functional because I didn't get an alarm remote with itBUT since she did that my car alarm went of so to shut it off I disconnected the battery. Problem solved......or so I thought, now my interior lights don't turn on until I turn my car on and sometimes the alarm goes off til I turn off my car. Is this a fuse issue, or did I fry something in my circuit by disconnecting my battery?

 

Short circuit some where

 

The true factory way to stop the factory alarm when it's going off is to stick the key in the door and turn it. Nissan did a very poor job getting that message out. I remember when I was a teenager and my mom first accidentally set off the alarm on her 3rd gen we had no idea how to turn it off. She used to get stranded out places with it when it would go off. I would bet the vast majority of 3rd gen owners don't/didn't even know the car has a factory alarm or how it works.

I just disabled mine. Mine was getting to the point where even unlocking the door with my key would set it off. If I unplugged the battery, it would stop. But as soon as I hooked the battery back up it would start going off again.

 

See thats the problem though, the alarm only activates now when my car is on and I open the door to get out, then shuts off when I kill the engine. So when I turn the key to the on position, I expect the dash to light up and everything else to function but it doesnt til I turn the engine over. I looked at all the fuses and they looked fine except for the relays which I cant tell if theyre out or not. What do you guys think might be going on here?

 

go to Nissan and see if they can make you a remote from the factory alarm, if they can't or it's to expensive then just go and get a new alarm installed.

 

wth? why are 5th gen guys giving advice about 3rd gens?

3rd gens didn't come with a factory alarm remote. that came into play with the fancy 4th gen guys.

the only way to turn off (stop if from beeping) the factory alarm is to stick the key into the key hole and turn it. yeah it sucks...i think if you turn the key in the truck it also turns the alarm off.

 

you sure it's not an aftermarket alarm?

sounds like a wire came apart in the ignition harness. look under the dash and check it out. these issues are really tough to solve on line since with the age of the car who knows how many people butchered the wiring under there.

 

True, but I cant try turning the key in the lock because the car is essentially dead until I turn it on then the lights kick on. Its not preventing me from starting it and driving, theres just no power when its off so I cant use the power locks. Whats weird is that the headlights still work

 

Do you have a GXE? Entering the unlock code on the keypad also turns off the alarm.

 

Its an SE, here's whats happening so far, I can start the car no problem no weird issues there, but when the engine is off there is absolutely no power anywhere EXCEPT the headlights, so I'm thinking wtf?? Then when I start my car the power comes on a split second after, sometimes it takes longer. This all started when that alarm when off. Could I have blown something by disconnecting the battery to disarm the alarm? Im just baffled at how my car can be dead when off but fire up like nothing. Cant be an alternator issue because then it wouldnt start at all. The only thing I can think of is a fuse or relay. Does anyone know if theres a fuse or relay that keeps electricity going through the car at all times?

 

Ill add that this works only for the driver side door (and the trunk). Whenever i unlock the passenger door with the key, provided the entire car is already still locked, the alarm goes off.. Unless I am wrong correct me, but on my car its only the driver door and trunk that shut the alarm off

 

That's my problem though, the alarm only goes off when the car is on now, I can't pull the key out because that means turning off the car which cuts off all power completely, its like I have to reprogram the computer to think its not being robbed or or something

 

It's supposed to work on both front doors. Your alarm definitely shouldn't go off by unlocking the passenger door. I remember mine used to periodically set the alarm off when I unlocked the passenger door with the key. Then when that started happening to me on the driver door it was definitely disable time.

 

Well I took out the fuses for the alarm and the relay, disconnected the theft module and I still don't get power when the engine is off, not only that but something drained my battery from just sitting there in my driveway all night. Is there any way of finding out what's sucking out the juice from my car while its off?

 

There is, but it is a hit or miss thing. What you do is disconnect a battery cable (pos/neg, it doesn't matter) then connect an ammeter in between the cable and battery. Depending on your meter, you may have to observe polarity, but usually digital meters don't care.

Once connected the meter will show some amount of current flow. Note the number on the meter and then start pulling fuses, checking the ammeter each time you pull a fuse.

Please note that you should never never get a zero reading. The alarm system, clock and radio are always using power, but that should be less than 100 milliamps.

 

Wow that's a huge help thanks!! I have a standard digital meter, that should work right?

 

Also, when I'm testing the fuses, how do I know when I found the faulty ones

 

Not all digital meters have the ammeter function. The real inexpensive ones may not. On meters that I've seen that measure amperes you have a connection where you can plug in another test lead along with ampere positions on the selector switch you use to select volts or ohms. You don't need an actual 3rd wire, you move the one wire (usually red) from the volts connector to the ampere connector. Leave the black wire in the COMMON connector. If your meter can do amperes, I hope it is AT LEAST 10 amps.

Set the meter to the highest ampere scale it has and read the current. Let's say it reads minus 1.5 amps. This means that you have the leads connected backwards. It doesn't matter for this task, but if the minus sign bothers you, switch the wires. Now go and pull a fuse and check the meter reading. If it is still showing 1.5 amps, that means that the electrical stuff that that fuse controls is not causing the problem. Put the fuse back in and try another fuse.

When you pull a fuse and the meter reading drops to zero, then you have found the electrical circuit that has the problem. Now you have to identify what that fuse controls. Look at the fuse diagram and start checking whatever that fuse controls. If you don't have a diagram, let us know.

2 CAUTIONS -

Block off the door switch that turns on the dome light. The current used by the dome light is normal, so keep that switch pressed down as if the door was closed.

DO NOT turn on any electrical devices like the headlights or blow the horn while you are doing this because it will cause too much electrical current to go through the meter. Usually this will only blow a fuse inside the meter, but I have seen meters go up in smoke.

 

Ok I will try that out, I do need a fuse diagram, the factory service manual I downloaded was very vague and confusing on what most of them control

 

So, before the alarm issue at the store, everything was working normally? Right up until you disconnected the battery? There is a White wire with a red stripe that should be connected to the battery positive. On cars this old the original plastic connector and battery terminal arrangement has usually been rigged by cutting the connectors off the 12v accessory feeds and attaching eyelets so the feed wires can be re-attached to the replacement battery terminal stud with a nut. In the heat of the moment these wires can sometimes be overlooked...

 

Yes, before the alarm went off I had ZERO issues with the cars electronics, battery and whatnot. I am wondering if by disconnecting the battery I shorted something somewhere. I took a reading of the battery across the terminals and it read 12v when not connected to the car, but when I connected the terminals I got a 11.49 reading, so that means something is pulling current pretty heavily I would say no?

 

1/2 volt doesn't mean a thing. We need to know the amperage of the draw. The ECU and alarms are always drawing current. Make sure you have all the wires attached to the battery positive. See the pic I added to my previous post.

 

I can check the white with red stripe wire but the outer most one has been cut off, but I didn't have a problem before so I don't think it mattered

 

Have you checked the "theft warning control unit" under driver dash? Try making a copy of "master key" to use on driver door while you have car running with original key to shut alarm off. Obviously you have many man hours of working under the dash to clean up the mess previous owners made. You need to go threw everything and replace everything that looks suspect. Mine has a key pad but if the alarm goes off I still have to use master key on driver door.

 

Where could I get a master key copy of my car done at?

 

Power Distribution. The blue is White on the car.

 

can you send me the file to that diagram? I cant zoom into it without it getting blurry. I made a copy just earlier of my master key and tried that when the horn when off again and it shut off but I still am not getting any power when the engine is off. So now I can probably rule out the alarm. I should have mentioned that when the alarm first went off and I disconnected the battery cable I didnt have any tools so I basically yanked it off because apparently it was a tad bit loose and I was able to work it off of the terminal. I wonder now if I may have damaged the battery cable going to it. Well I bought a multimeter with a 10A option so Im going to see what reads on the battery, I'll keep you guys posted. Thank you all so much for your help!!

 

That is page 8 of the electrical section of the FSM. It goes with page 9.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1994/EL.pdf

Here is the link to the entire FSM
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1994/

 

would the alternator being bad cause the car to not have power when its off? I did a few alternator tests and am planning on taking it in but I was curious to know if you guys knew if that was possible. I've tried a lot of things, all my fuses were ok, the relays i'm not so sure about. Is there also a relay or fuse that controls all the lights and power locks when the car is off?

 

The alternator would have to have a dead short to rob current from your system with the engine off. The entire electrical system is fed by the three connections to the battery positive. The main cable goes to the starter motor to supply current when cranking. The White wire goes to Alternator Output. The White Wire with the Red trace is the main fused feed to the ignition switch, lighting system and theft system. Recall too that every device needs a return to ground.
The fact you can turn the ignition on and power up everything hints that at least the White\Red circuit to the switch MAY be good, or the ignition has been forced to draw power from somewhere else through re-engineering or a wire shorted to power or mis-attached to a power source. There are three fusible links and two fuses in that circuit. They are all located in the skinny box between the battery and the fender well.

My real guess is some how the connection at the battery for the White \Red has been broken and the system is powering up via stray accessory feedback through the ignition switch.

Not sure how many of these surviving 3rd gens still have the owners manual. My guess from the used cars we get on our lot, not very many. So, from my 1994 Maxima owners manual:
Theft Warning
The theft warning system provides visual and audio alarm signals if parts of the vehicle are disturbed.
How to Activate the Theft Warning System
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2. Close all windows. Close and lock all doors, hood and trunk lid. The doors can be locked either with or without the key.
NOTE: The system can be activated even if the windows are open.
3. Confirm that the indicator (Security) light comes on. The light should glow for about 30 seconds and then go out. The system is now activated. If, during this 30 second time period, the door is unlocked or the ignition key is turned to "ACC" or "ON", the system will not activate.

Caution: If the key is turned slowly when locking the door, the system may not activate. Furthermore, if the key is turned excessively to the unlock position, the system may be deactivated when the key is removed. If the indicator light fails to glow for 30 seconds, unlock the door once and lock it again.

Even when the driver and/or passengers are in the vehicle, the system will activate with all doors, hood, trunk lid and back door locked and ignition key off.

Turn the ignition key to "ACC" or "ON" to turn the system off.

Theft Warning System Operation
The warning system will give the following alarm:
*The headlights blink and the horn sounds intermittently. In addition, the starter motor will not operate.
*The alarm automatically turns off after 2 to 3 minutes; however, the alarm will reactivate if the vehicle is tampered with again. The alarm can be shut off by unlocking a door or trunk lid with the key.

The alarm is activated by:
*Opening the door or trunk lid without using the key (even if the door is opened by releasing the door inside lock ****) or opening the trunk lid or back door by operating the opener lever.
*Opening the hood.
*Pushing in or pulling out the key cylinder on the door or trunk lid.

How to stop alarms
The alarm will stop only by unlocking a door or trunk lid with the key. Alarm will not stop if the ignition switch is turned to "ACC" or "ON".

Digital Touch Entry System
To activate the theft warning system, close the hood and trunk. The door may be locked with or without the key by pressing the 9-0 button.
To deactivate the system or turn off the alarm:
*Unlock the door or trunk with the key, or
*Unlock the door using the personal code number.

If the system does not operate as described above, have it checked by your NISSAN dealer.

 

I gotta take a pic here soon of those wires, the ignition wire and battery wire are booked up but the white going to the alternator is not, its missing a short cable in between the clips, I imagine that should have had an impact before all this not after? I remember when I disconnected the positive to shut the alarm off I hooked it back on and the alarm came back on for a second or two and the turned off, so I assumed it did the trick

 

The white wire to the alternator has\had a fusible link between the battery terminal and the wire. Since you think this was not hooked up and everything worked I wonder if someone added a new wire and ran it somewhere else like from alternator output to the starter terminal where the battery cable hooks up? If the White\Red is attached to the battery terminal and has a good connection so that 12v can be measured in it by piercing the insulation with a pin or needle then, the next stop for this wire is the fusible link box. make sure all the fuses and links in this box have 12v to them and through them. After it leaves the fusible link box it goes straight to the ignition switch, headlamp system, and anti theft system. Drop the trim from around the steering column and find the harness going to the ignition switch. With the key off is there power on the White\Red wire there? If not, find the wire that does have 12v at the switch connector with the key off and let me know what color\terminal it is.

 

so here's a pic of the missing link, I really couldnt see any wires that looked like they were modified, I guess the next step is to test those wires for the 12v? Does that imply testing between the wire and the terminal?

 

Alright. Exactly what I pictured. It looks like the terminal where the Alternator output belongs has corrosion on it. At this stage, unplug the White\Red and see what condition the spade it connects to is in. This is where co rrosion builds up and breaks the connection. This is also where people (me) usually cut this connector block out, crimp eyelets onto the wires and put those under the nut that is holding the connector block. If you find corrosion at the White\Red terminal, clean it or just do what most do and get rid of the connector and install eyelets. While those wires are disconnected, put your voltmeter in the range to measure 12v. put the negative lead on the battery negative and check the disconnected wires for 12v. There should be no voltage on either. If there is, then someone most likely added wiring somewhere else in the system to bypass this connection at the battery because they didn't understand. Something else I would be interested in knowing is if the white\red has power on it when disconnected but with the key on. That could indicate that an accessory or added circuit is indeed feeding back through the ignition switch. If everything checks out good here. Reconnect the White\Red, and move over to the fusible link box. With the voltmeter on 12v or a 12v test light, see if the 2 15amp fuses have power on both sides by touching the exposed metal points on top of the fuse. The fusible links are the larger amperage 'fuses' the three most forward (Sometimes just 2) are in the White\Red circuit. Remove them and check that one terminal in each location has 12v. Put your meter in Ohms and measure across the spade connectors of each fusible link, any that does not have continuity replace. If everything is OK here, move on to the igniton switch as outlined in post #32.


I will also mention here that the unattached white wire also feeds, power windows, power locks, automatic seat belts, trunk opener, sun roof and, shift interlock system.

Edit: I just went out to my car and was filming how to check this stuff out. I left the white wire disconnected like you say yours is and It duplicated your problem on my car. So, I seem to be partly wrong about the White\Red but not wrong about they need to be attached.

 

You are right PsychGen, it was that wire. And my alternator tested dead so I replaced that too. Now everything is back to normal, I hope haha. Thanks so much everyone!!! You guys are all great!!!

 

Great!.

One other thing though. I noticed with my wire disconnected it appears to disable the security system. I never could get the alarm to go off like you reported. I was wondering how long after you started the car did it take for the alarm to go off?

 

I disconnected the battery right away when it went off, I couldn't start it when it was sounding, seems to be reactivated now but I don't really want to test it out in case it doesn't turn off again

 

OK. I think I understand. For a moment it sounded as if it may have an aftermarket alarm system overlain on the harness. As long as your security light now functions as outlined in post 30 sounds like the factory system is still working.

 

Ya everything is fine now, no more weird issues, I don't know what I would have done without the help of all you guys, I probably would have sold the car since I couldn't afford to pay for the incredibly high labor charges mechanics have nowadays. It's hard to own a car on a minimum wage budget haha

 

Used car lot I do work for gets a lot of cars from auction that I can tell were sold because the owner\dealer gave up hunting a simple problem. We get cars the only reason they were sold\traded in: the tires were worn out!