dadismanc3110

Hello everyone.
My driver window wont roll down. The motor sound when I press down or anything. When I press up I can hear the motor and the space displacement up in the jamb. All other windows work no problem from the same switch. Any suggestions?
Thank you for your reply.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

wow, this is like the third 3rd gen master window switch thread in like a week... they must all be failing

Carefully disassemble the switch and use qtip and isopropyl alcohol (or flux-off, or C-60 if you have it) to clean the contact points. Check the switch itself for evidence of burned traces (scorch marks on the PCB)

example of burned PCBs:

dadismanc3110

Well thank you good sir. Mine Probably looks somethinglike your pic. I dont know where to begin because I dont want to totally damage the door panel. Could yOnlyou or anyone else please direct me to some sort of blow by blow on how to remove the switch from the door?
Kind regards

audioflirt

It's not the fuse, checked. Pressing Any or All switches produce nothing, no movement, no sounds. I understand some models are equipped w/ a circuit breaker, but don't know if mine is. I purchased the car in this condition, it was a steal at 700$. I'm female and don't have many tools or testers. But if you could give me a step-by-step troubleshooting guide, please, I'll figure it out. btw every now and the door seat belt light and door chime will come on for a few seconds while driving. Don't know if this could be related, or a ground issue.

1994 SE 5-Speed.

maxima278

iTrader: (3)

These master switches go bad all the time, so from experience it seems like a definite suspect. Yours not working at all is a little odd. Usually they do something, just not all their normal functions. Do the other windows operate from their own switches? Do the power door locks work?

audioflirt

No windows work on any switches, front or rear. Power door locks work

maxima278

iTrader: (3)

First off, I'd like to see if anyone knows of another cause to this problem, like say a main relay or something that could shut down the whole system. Seems like you should at least here some clicking or something.

If there is something else, I'm not experienced with diagnosing that but I can tell you at least how to eliminate the switch as a possible cause without anything other than a flat and Philips screwdriver.

Do you have access to a junkyard? And are you handy at all? If so see if you can get another master switch at a junkyard for about $5. You may luck up and get a good one, but there will likely be something wrong with it, but it should at least do more than yours, if yours is the problem.

To take one out, first take a flat head screwdriver and remove the plug that is facing forward at the top of your inner door handle, the one you pull closed. Then remove the screw underneath it. then lift the lever to open the door and pop the small cover out from underneath it. Under that you'll find two screws, remove those and carefully pull the switches up and out. There are still clips holding it in. Then unplug the wires and take the master switch loose from the large cover.

At this point you are still better off not taking the switch apart, but if you see any burnt marks around the yellowish lower part then you can be sure it's fried. It's up to you if you want to risk taking it apart, but to do that, turn it upside down so no buttons fall out and use your screwdriver to pry the brown part away from the black, then uncover the circuit board and look for burns. I have one sitting in front of me that has a tiny burnt crater in it, easy to spot.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There is both a circuit breaker and a fusible link for the windows. Power from the battery goes to a 15 amp gray colored fusible link to the circuit breaker to the windows. The fusible link is under the hood in a box with several other fusible links and fuses. The box is on the engine side of the battery. The circuit breaker is buried under the dash, behind the fuse panel and against the firewall.

audioflirt

Ok... My fusible link under the hood plugged into the PW is Red, 10 amp I think. Could this be the problem?

audioflirt

Where is the main relay? Under the hood?

maxima278

iTrader: (3)

I haven't found one... Was hoping someone else would chime in.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

Everything you could ever need to know about the car's electrical system is in here.

electrical http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/el.pdf
body (power windows in door section) http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/bf.pdf

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Possibly. To start with, is it blown? Also, the lowest amperage for a fusible link is 25 amps.

However, I need to correct my self. I said that the fusible link was gray. That is wrong. It is green which I think is something like 40 amps, not sure on the amps.

One other thing regarding the fusible link and circuit breaker for the power windows - this also is the power source for the power door locks, the seat belt slider mechanism and the electric trunk opener. If these are working, then the fusible link and circuit breaker are good.

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

I got a used one from my local pick n pull that worked properly for about a month before it started to act up. Now it will roll the back seat windows down but not up, I have to reach into back seat to use the switches to roll rear windows up. Eventually I'll just have to pony up the dough for a new master switch from Nissan. Sometimes you can repair the master switch if the board isn't too bad. I need to get another F/P switch since this one has failed, it's a used switch of course. Then after you either replace/repair all the window switches your window regulators will fail/break. I've replaced 2 or 3 regulators so far but fortunately swapping in new regulators is fairly easy on the 3rdgen.

dadismanc3110

I dont understand the fsm electronic diagrams fully. Just a little over my experience level. Even if I could decifer all of it id still have to locate the equiptment on the car. Not that I havent used it, Caped. It is invaluable to us all. But my power locks are acting up as well. Worked about a month ago, quit for 2 week, worked suddenly for a day, quit and havent worked since. I do hear a clicking noise from under the dash when I push locks /unlock. But no locks.

maxima278

iTrader: (3)

The control for the power locks is on that same circuit card inside your power window master switch. In fact I had an extra master switch laying around so I popped it in, turned out it was in worse shape than what my car has, I hit the switch for the drivers window and the locks went haywire. I took it back out and popped it apart and it had a small crater where it looked like it had a tiny explosion on the circuit card...

Have you taken yours apart to look at it?

dadismanc3110

Ha ha damn, that sucks. I popped mine apart too...but it seems to look great. No black burnt spots or signs of corrosion. I havent put it under a magnifying glass but im going to. When I hooked it back up, the troubled window worked once like magic but quickly back to the same old trouble. Its the driver window. It wont roll down but will go up.
So...what did you end up doing?

maxima278

iTrader: (3)

Well, that one was just an extra, found it in a bin of stuff I got with a couple of cars a while back. I was hoping it might work better than mine. My actual switch in my car works mostly. Drivers side works ok, the rest will go up but not down, unless you go to the individual window switch.

It's nearly impossible to find a used master that works perfectly. You can try a local junk yard but I wouldn't pay much for one. With any luck maybe you can at least find one that will work well enough. You can buy new ones but they are over $100.

audioflirt

What about a bad ground? Can the ground suddenly be bad due to dirt, rust or just loosen?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

That is possible. The master window switch in the driver's door has to have ground going to it. The ground wire is in pin 2 of the smaller connector. Use an ohmmeter and measure for continuity from pin 2 of the wire harness to a good ground

audioflirt

These sections are perfect for trying to fix my issue, if I could read wire diagrams, diagnose and trouble shoot following a flow chart. Would you happen to have the link for the "GI" section of this manual..? Plz

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

Replace the xx.pdf on those links to gi

Heck, you can see all the sections by taking that section out.

MaxKGB

iTrader: (1)

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ch-repair.html

jakeru

Great thread and info, guys!

I had intermittent problems getting my front windows up, where there would be a squealing noise from the window switch (perhaps the relay cycling very rapidly) and the window would move up only very slowly. At times also, I recall the window going down on its own. I was working around the "unexpected down" problem by setting the window lock button.

Well, based on the good info on this board, I removed the master window switch, and refurbished it. Front windows are working reliably again. There was some grease that may be corrosive that got down on the board, and was causing corrosion of some of the soldered component leads. There was also one or two areas of the board that was disintegrated - perhaps corroded all the way through. I cleaned off most of the corrosion with mechanical scraping and isopropyl alcohol. I the soldered the broken traces by bridging with a very small multi-stranded wire. When scraping I scraped off completely one lead from a Surface mount transistor. I managed to delicately solder a small wire to the tiny metal stub that was remaining - confirmed by a multimeter.

I think this corrosion here is probably being exasorbated by he occasion time leaving the driver's widnow open or cracked open when it rained. Just wanted to pass on my story for the benefit of the rest of the maxima community.