3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994) Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.

i REALLY NEED HELP. SAFETY CONCERN

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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 07:43 PM
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i REALLY NEED HELP. SAFETY CONCERN

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZC75V...ature=youtu.be
Old Sep 7, 2013 | 07:43 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZC75V...ature=youtu.be
Old Sep 7, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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Definitely need a new master pw switch, I think you can get one from rockauto. Don't bother going to a junkyard on that one, cause most of the others are shorted out too. Just my experience.

On The tail light issue, I can only make a few suggestions, buy new bulbs for that side, and go to a junk yard and pick up another inner tail light assembly with all your bulb holders in it.

I guess I should ask, have you disconnected that assembly and tried the fuse?
Old Sep 8, 2013 | 01:38 AM
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Yeah, test both of them separately when the other is disconnected, find which one is faulty and inspect it, replace the bulbs, ect. If you aren't sure about that splice job on the RH side, ditch it completely or rewire it correctly. A bulb shouldn't be burning holes in the plastic, brake light might have been on constantly.
Old Sep 8, 2013 | 09:15 AM
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The fuse is blowing because of excessive current in that circuit...just got to figure out cause of excessive current. The melted plastic tells us that the bulb is most likely constant, if the bulb is constant then somehow it's finding another path to ground. The taillight inner assembly rewiring work is probably source of issue. Problem circuit might be shorting to ground threw that bunch of wires. You can get the inner assembly at a JY and swap it in or try rewiring yourself. Good Wrenching!!
Old Sep 8, 2013 | 11:16 AM
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if you end up needing a master PW switch and cant find one, i think i have one i pulled from a JY car years ago you can have if you pay shipping.
Old Sep 8, 2013 | 03:06 PM
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Maxima278. Yea i went to the local pull and pay for a new light assembly, didn't really do much. The gxe light fixture did not fit properly in my SE ficture.

But do you guys think LED'S will help with the amperage problem?
Yesterday i put in a 20 amp fuse and it has been working fine since.
I just want to fix this problem once and for all.

Yea thanks for the rockauto link.

Hectic - yea i think my next step should be to remove all the bulbs and see which one is causing it

shiloh and chrome and all of you do you think new rims would fix the tire pressure problem??
Old Sep 8, 2013 | 06:40 PM
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i skimmed through the video last night, whats the tire pressure problem?
Old Sep 8, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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you need to take that 20 amp fuse out NOW or youre gonna have bigger problems if you dont already.

your problem is still in your bulb sockets. either your parking lights are bleeding into your brake circuit or vice versa. you need to figure out that problem first
Old Sep 9, 2013 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by DMad8724
you need to take that 20 amp fuse out NOW or youre gonna have bigger problems if you dont already.

your problem is still in your bulb sockets. either your parking lights are bleeding into your brake circuit or vice versa. you need to figure out that problem first
+1 wit 20A fse.
Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:18 AM
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i had the same exact problem man check to make sure the light bulb sockets have the correct bulb in them i think one of the sockets takes 1156 and the other two are 1157 good luck
Old Sep 10, 2013 | 04:40 AM
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Dmad. - are my wires going to be damaged because they are meant for 15 amps.?

Lux- I think it tells me the numbers on the light fixture right? I'll check today. Do you think LEDs will help? I have older versions of the lights,I think the original.

Chrome- one of my tires kept losing tire reassure. 6 or so months ago I put slime in it
http://www.walmart.com/ip/16782749?w...068870&veh=sem


It worked for 6 months and recently started losing pressure again. Yesterday I put a refill. I think my stock 15's are corroded around the circumference. Perhaps it is puncturing the tire. I think new rims and tires is the solution?
Old Sep 10, 2013 | 07:55 AM
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Fire is eminent with a fuse over the amp specified.

Sylvania has a bulb finder site that is fairly accurate. Otherwise check your owners manual.

A new rim and tire will fix the slow leak.
Slime should only be used to help you make it home/emergency IMO. That stuff does nasty things to the inside of your tire. Off balance, etc.

...& why the splicing job on your rear light..?
I'm not understanding the purpose of that?

Last edited by Fakie J Farkerton; Sep 10, 2013 at 08:01 AM.
Old Sep 10, 2013 | 11:03 AM
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http://www.carid.com/1993-nissan-max...-10264958.html
Old Sep 10, 2013 | 05:08 PM
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I had the same issue with my fuse blowing. Including with the lack of dash lights, I notice that one of those ground wires was loose from the plastic and touching other things, causing a short and blown fuse like yours. I agree, get a new assembly or a multimeter.
Old Sep 10, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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for the tire leak, get a mist spray bottle. fill it up with some dish soap and water and mix it. take the wheel off, and spray the tread of the tire. if anythings leaking, it will bubble up from the soap. it will be quite obvious

if theres no leaks on the tread, spray the area where the rim meets the bead of the tire. spray the inner and outer side, if it starts bubbling around there, your rim has corrosion on it. the tire has to be removed and the corrosion ground off with a grinder. any tire place can fix that, ive fixed hundreds of rims with rim corrosion

i havent really seen that Slime stuff fix leaks, ive removed tires to properly fix them where someone put Slime on the inside and that stuff reeks and burns your lungs lol
Old Sep 13, 2013 | 05:49 PM
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the reason the fuse is blowing is because theres too much in the circuit. the bulb is corroded to the point where your brake light is leaking into your parking light wiring, parking lights are only 8w but now they're joining up with the 27w brake lights -> why the fuse is blowing. it might not be the bulb but its either that or where the bulb makes contact in the socket, or wiring in the bulb holder.

also, the reason you hear that 'click' and have to use the shift lock button is because that runs off the same fuse, so if it blows that will happen. unplug one of the tail lights on either side completey. hit the brakes and if it blows then your problem is with that side. if it doesnt blow try the other side find your problem

adding a higher rated fuse will only allow that increased current to go straight to your TCU or whatever the box under the dash you're going to end up burning up with the higher rated fuse. NEVER USE A HIGHER RATED FUSE
Old Sep 29, 2013 | 01:57 PM
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Sorry you guys for the delay, I was waiting for a quote from my local Collision Center.


They said they can fix the master power control for $ 174 (labor included). Good deal?

And thank you Dmad and all others, i put a regular 15 amp fuse in .
Old Sep 29, 2013 | 01:59 PM
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Also,i think some oil is leaking a little. Do i need new gaskets?Any solution
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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looks like valve cover gasket.
Old Sep 30, 2013 | 06:14 PM
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is it a major problem sir? Should i go to a professional mechanic?
Old Sep 30, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Lilcurry
is it a major problem sir? Should i go to a professional mechanic?
define major?
is it going to blow up your motor...MAYBE...you have an oil leak. if you just keep it topped off your engine will more or less survive.

once that grease/oil hits the exhaust manifolds things will get a little stinky in the cabin.

change your PCV valve
Old Sep 30, 2013 | 07:41 PM
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Don't pay $175 to have your master window switch replaced. It's a 10 minute job and easy enough to find a working used one for little or no money. Literally everyone here has replaced at least one, so if you need help in any way, everyone here is qualified to help. Same goes for regulators.

Oil leaks from the VE valve covers are very common, you're looks a little worse than the typical case. Replacing it might make it worse or cause new leaks. Wipe that sludge off and keep an eye on it and the oil level. Take Dan's advice and replace the PCV valve, it's another 10 minute job and it's probably clogged to no end.
Old Oct 1, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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PCv valve. Ok thanks. Couple someone explain the function of it to be though?

Also when wiping the valve cover, should I just use a rag? Any soap?
Old Oct 12, 2013 | 09:14 PM
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Turns out that the '93 se model doesn't have a pcv valve!
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Lilcurry
Turns out that the '93 se model doesn't have a pcv valve!
Wrong. Why would you think that? It's on the back of the rear head on the passenger side
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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PCV valve just kinda reuses air in the engine, it gets rid of moisture from the crankcase and throws it into the intake manifold so it gets burned off and doesnt cause sludge

i think nearly every car in the last 30+ years have had a PCV valve, EGR some cars never
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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I looked behind the throttle stuff like the Haynes manual said. Couldn't find it autozoneauto zone people said it wasn't in the car
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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5 min search and i found this....

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...e-located.html

c'mon man...there's a search on the forum for a reason...please use it to help YOURSELF in fixing your car.



photo credit to greeny.
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 05:31 PM
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just a heads up, 99.9% of Autozone, Partsource, etc employees know next to nothing but what the computer tells them. most of them have no field experience
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Thanks so much you guys. Sorry I'll be me self sufficient next time!
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