Hi,

I have a 1992 GXE with the VG. My locks are not working and windows are somewhat crazy. (I already know that I have to clean the windows contacts.)

I've search and found quite a few threads discussing the door lock problem. Thing is the threads are old, links are broken and pictures are missing. I read something about the door lock timer under the dash. Any pictures of what has to be soldered would be nice also the location of the box would be a plus. I also read about another module on the drivers door, and that the traces on the PCB get burned, any information about this will be greatly appreciated.

Also is there a way to know the code for the door keypad? Or to reprogram it?

Thanks!

 

It's a crapshoot. You don't need pictures. Remove your switch and examine it for burnt traces or leaking SMD caps. Repair traces, replace caps or get a working one from the junk yard. You need to baby the MWS, the window circuits require a ton of current which is routed through the switch. Traces will burn out if you push them to the limit. For example, rolling multiple windows up simultaneously or holding switch(es) for several seconds when a window is struggling or barely moving. Roll up one window at a time, if one struggles, replace the motor, lube the weather strip, or at the very least roll it up in 3 second increments.

Lubing and using strong motors is the best defense. Won't draw as much current through the switch.

 

Im sure it's been discussed alot in the past. My door locks were working intermittently then eventually not at all and thanks to the great info you can find in the forums i realized it was my power door lock timer which apparently is very common. If you push your door lock button you should hear a clicking noise under the dash on the drivers side under the steering column that should help you narrow it down. Keep pushing your door lock button until you find where the clicking noise is coming from it will be a square box which is the door lock module either black or grey in colour and approx. 3" x 3". Im not sure how well you can solder but once you have it out if you release the tabs on either side of the module the circuit board should slide out. Then just check the bottom of the board for any bad solder points and re solder them. Then put the board back into the module plug it back in and test it before screwing it back in incase you have to take it out and re check it. Good Luck!

 

Also if your keypad beeps when you push the buttons for the code chances are it works. sometimes moisture can cause them to stop working depending on what kind of shape your car is in. If you take it to a nissan dealership chances are they will clear the code and put in a new one of your choice free of charge. Atleast they did for me. Up under the passenger side dash there is a series of numbers you have to put in to the keypad to clear it then you will hear a long beep during that long beep you put in your new code and you have to do it fairly quickly and i believe it has to be 4 to 6 digits but your best to just to take it to nissan and hopefully they will reprogram it for you at no charge. Hope this helps and again good luck!

 

Don't even bother removing the whole box, you can just slide the board out from the bottom with the box still in place. Those screws on the box are a pain.

 

Lol Thats true. Just becareful not to snap the board or anything on it while taking it out if you leave it in.

 

Thanks guys.

Will see if I have some time tomorrow, work and college are sucking the life out of me.

I little lazy to quote but:

Hectic, I will use some silicon spray to lube it all up

ac max I'm good with the soldering iron I doubt a dealer will help. Hell my girlfriend has a 2010 Kia and I had to print out a transmission update tsb because they wouldnt perform it. Nissan wont change the seatbelt module of my 240sx even though it has lifetime warranty. The only thing I can say is Viva Puerto Rico (it sucks! except for the women and beaches though).

I cant find Maxima parts on junkyard they are not common here. In fact Nissan's in general are hard to find in junkyards.

 

Dealer can't legally deny warranty work man. If the issue is legitimately covered under warranty, they are in breach of contract (the lifetime warranty being the contractual obligation to warrant the restraint system for non-wear and tear problems for the life of the vehicle per their own warranty terms) Call Nissan corporate and rat on them.

 

WOW Levsimus you sound like you'd be a good lawyer if not one already lol

 

El Cangri, Just follow those steps as far as getting your board out of the power door lock timer and soldering it and you'll be fine. And it's not too difficult resetting your code for the keypad if you do some searching around on the forums here i believe there is a thread on here with the steps to do it. If im not mistaken the set of numbers to reset your code is either in the passenger side kick panel or if you lay on the passenger side floor at look up behind the dash you may find them there aswell. Good luck! Its a shame the 3rd gens are hard to find there or nissans in general. If you like it and its a little rare all the more reason to take good care of it.

 

Nah, I work at a Nissan stealership doing collision repair, legal shenanigans don't exactly fit under my area of expertise I just know how the routine works, having dealt with numerous warranty problems with a motorcycle as well as the seatbelt warranty on my own 3rd gen. I've been around the block a few times when it comes to having to fight a dealer regarding warranty work (for the bike, not the Max. Our service department doesn't suck, thankfully!)

Whenever a dealer tries to sidestep warranty work, the onus is on them to prove its not covered under warranty, and corporate will coil off a massive steamer on them if they try to avoid writing up warranty jobs without a legitimate reason - some dealers REALLY hate having to deal with our older cars as there is no money to be made in warranty work (warranty jobs pretty much always pay way less than standard book rate) and older cars are generally a pain to work on compared to much cleaner, newer cars.

Never let a dealer tell you they will not service your vehicle under warranty if you know it is definitely covered - they are breaking the law, not to mention Nissan corporate would LOVE to hear all about it so they can break some legs over at your local shop on your behalf. Nissan corporate doesn't want a lawsuit on their hands because of a dealer trying to make its own rules and pick and choose its warranty jobs so they're generally pretty good about providing an attitude adjustment on the customer's behalf. It is worth noting this applies to any other brand of vehicle, but naturally the subject here is Nissan.