i got an alignment after i had soem shock work done, this is what my report gave me. i have no camber bolts or anything. do the numbers look correct?

FRONTS
caster spec min/max: 0.50' to 2.00'
my LF: 0.63' before, 0.63' after
my RF: 0.77' before, 0.77' after

camber: -1.00' to 0.50'
my LF: -1.00' before, -0.27' after
my RF: -0.82' before, -0.39' after

toe: 0.04' to 0.14'
my LF: -0.94' before, 0.09' after
my RF: -0.91' before, 0.08' after

REARS
camber: -1.31' to 0.19'
my LR: -0.08' before, -0.16' after
my RR: -0.70' before, -0.82' after

toe: -0.13' to -0.03'
my LR: -0.08' before, -0.06' after
my RR: -0.50' before, -0.06 after


do these numbers look correct? shouldn't my camber be way off, it looks to me taht my camber, toe, and caster all all within spec up front, am i reading something wrong? the rears look like their camber is within spec, but the toe is outside of the maximum range by 0.03'.

help! i've been looking at a camber kit that i can buy, becauase i did notice uneven tire wear on my tires (i dont remember whether they were the front or rears that were wearing fast)

 

the -0.8 rear camber is what's causing the uneven tire wear.

the rest of the specs are fine.

on the toe, what you're concerned about it the cross-toe. i.e. the difference between the sides. since both are the same, they'll drive perfectly straight.
And actually, the rest toe is stll within spec. the range is -0.13 to -0.03. you're at -0.06, which is 0.03 INSIDE the limit, not outside.

 

Who did the work? Most generic align places can't adjust more than just the toe.

Tru-Line?

 

and everything was within spec, and I still get very noticeable wear on the inside of my front tires. I wonder if some of it is related to the friggen ruts in all the roads from the morons that think they need studded tires from october to april when it snows maybe ONE day out of the year!!!!

 

I remember Matt saying he had his alignment done with him in the car. I don't know if there is enought weight with someone in the car to cause premature tire wear, but anythings possible.

 

I didn't have it done in the car, but you should probably have it done that way.

Then again, I read in the FSM not long ago that the alignment specs listed are for an "unladen" car. i.e. full gas tank, all factory accessories in place, no eztra cargo or passengers.

BUT.. we do ride around ever day in these cars. there IS weight in them. my car has several hundred lb of extra jump in it all the time. trunk full of exhaust manifolds and spare parts. pass rear floorboard has about 60lb of tools in it, and driver rear floorboard has a 50lb box of junk (more parts) that always rides around back there.

Soooo, with all the crap I have in my car, it's probably a good idea to leave it in there when aligning it.

 

i'm looking at the data and it shows that all the camber numbers should be within the factory spec? isn't -.27' and -.39' within -1.00 to 0.50' and -0.16' and -0.82' within -1.31' to 0.19'?


camber: -1.00' to 0.50'
my LF: -1.00' before, -0.27' after
my RF: -0.82' before, -0.39' after

camber: -1.31' to 0.19'
my LR: -0.08' before, -0.16' after
my RR: -0.70' before, -0.82' after

 

top

 

anybody..? i'm still lost...and i dont know if i need front, rear, or front and rears?

 

So what's your question? yes, they're obviously within spec to begin with, but they're closer to "center of spec" now.
And no you don't need to buy any camber kits for anything. you're fine.

 

So when I take my car in, can I request that they setup everything to "center of spec"?
Jay

 

Depends. Camber is not adjustable w/o camber kits or bolts and caster is not adjustable period. So only toe and camber can be adjusted. But some shops won't even do that.

If you have some camber bolts and your camber is not off by too much, you can arrange to have a shop(that knows what they are doing) adjust those to pretty much where you want it. For camber, I would want it nearer the outside limit. Like .8-.9 neg. I have one of the fronts at neg 1.1 and both rears ended up at neg .9ish. The inside rears are starting to show some wear a little faster than the one good front side(at about .7ish or something)

 

the shop will always adjust them to center of spec as best they can (unless you request something different).

also, by loosening the two front strut bolts, you can adjust camber quite a bit just from the slack in the bolt holes. if the camber is out of spec, have them loosen the bolts and pull on it a bit and they should fall closer to spec. mine was almost 1.5 neg once and he pulled it to -1.00, and said there was room to go.. that was without any other camber kits/correction devices.

 

better too much than too little, imho.

 

how is your alignment now? is your wear even? sorry for all the questions, i'm trying to figure this out for myself, and so i can write up an aricle on it.

 

Article for whom? I could write one in about 30 minutes.

 

to add to my FAQ collection

 

Here is an email I recieved regarding the camber sets I should pick up:

> I recommend the #3541 PR in the front and the #3827 in the rear. Both of
>these kits will get in to specs and up to 0 degrees camber if you choose.
>The front is $40 and the rear is $100.

 

On your cardomain site? I don't see it. Who did the work again?

 

who did the work for what?

http://annulardesign.com/maxima

 

aH..who ALIGNED your car. You did it yourself?

 

les schwab

 

should those kits work?