1990 Max
My power valve actuator is leaking.
Dealer no longer has it.
Anyone modify something else to work?????

 

is this because you see the green and brown solinoids have a crack in them?
i always wondered if that was a body around a metal inside
my 91 se had both cracked,(i think 1 is egr)all the junkyard cars had cracks in those as well
(they are under the air intake plastic "S" bent tube
if we are talking about the same thing)
there is a test for the power valve in the fsm,i can look at my book and post it here later if you need

 

I haven't checked the solenoids yet.
The actuator will not hold vacuum, so I know the diaphragm is blown.
I have a extra set of solenoids from another junked Maxima.
I'll check them for cracks.
I also have a factory manual.

 

Anyone know if some place sells a replacement????

 

ive repaired it myself (the diafram) with flexible glue. it worked for a while but the back to nothing. i was thinking of adding a electric solenoid to close the intakes runners inside but haven't found a solinod to use. but i did one day spot a vacuum actuator from a different car that would work but i would have to make a bracket for the new actuator.
but if you have no luck with anything just plug up the vacuum hose and dont worry about the actuator. its effects/gains are not that noticeable. it just gives you extra torque at a lower rpm when needed but is usually open mose of the time.

 

I've been looking at pictures of different actuators.
It seems that Nissan used them for a while on different engines.
I'll have to take a trip the the junk yard and see if anything would work.
Bracket will have to be modified, but that's not a problem.

 

yrah thats basically the only hope is to adapt a different vacuum actuator. i believe the 2002-2006 v6 altima and maxima have a metal power valve on its intake manifold since those engines utilize 2 runners different lengths as well.

 

I see that it's used in many years of Nissans.
Mini van, Altima, Pathfinder, others.
Not with the same mount, but the vacuum part looks the same.
I'll check out the junk yards to see if I can find one and modify the mount

 

Just curious.. but what kind of effects is the malfunctioning actuator having?

 

You might not notice it.
The low end will feel stronger, the high end will have a more steady pull.
It's more of a feel thing.
Millage will also be better.
I tried tying it in the close position.
First thing I noticed is the idle got higher.
The feel of acceleration flattened out. I don't feel it keep pulling.
With it tied open, it had less pull at low speeds.
Overall, just less performance.

 

Do you have a pic of the part? I'm picturing the green plastic one that under the air intake that I thought was referred to as the swirl valve?

 

 

O.k. when mentioned in a previous post it was on the intake manifold I thought of that part aswell. If it doesn't seize up how can you tell it's defective? Have you just checked it by opening the throttle under the hood while monitoring it? If it's more beneficial with it in the closed position could it not just be removed and blocked off? Or close it and unplug the vacuumed line? When it's defective does it leak somewhere or the plunger inside go defective or something? Sorry for all the questions just getting a little insight on it as I've never really bothered with it. Kinda out of sight out of mind and not really a part of regular maintenance but my curiosity is kinda peaked to see if it is noticeable on the butt dyno so to speak lol.

 

Doing my yearly maintenance, I check water hoses, vacuum hoses, and other normally checked things.
Also check any vacuum holding components with a hand vacuum pump.
You probably would not notice if its bad.
I have the vacuum line going to it plugged, so not to have a vacuum leak.
It's normally in the open position at rest, so didn't need to wire it open.
I did try to wire it closed, and found that I would rather have it open.
Some of the newer models of different Nissans still use it.
I've read that some have a problem with the valves inside the manifold falling off. NOT GOOD.
I'm planing to check out the junk yards to see if I can find an actuator that still works, and I might be able to modify to fit.

 

I just cut the actuator off and then secured the rod so that the butterfly's are open. Shift power from low end to upper end. These engines have such great low end power, I never really noticed the loss of a few hp down low.

 

My power valve doesn't want to accept it's fate and squeals like nobody's business. I'm probably just going to plug the tube and forget about it unless I find a cheap one in a junk yard. (ear rape valve squeals attached)