CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

1) Are new complete VTC's still available to buy?
2) Are VTC rebuild kits still available to buy?
3) Are VE valve train components like lifters, cams, guides, sprockets, tensioners and chains still available to buy?
4) Is this eBay ad legit, do you know anyone who have ordered this kit? My concern is that they could have listed the engine wrong http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-94-3-0L-N...300?rmvSB=true

RockAuto have quite a lot of individual VE valve train components listed on their website. Hopefully their website listing is correct

After 21 years of ownership, I'm soon to be at a turning point with my VE. Should I continue or get rid of? I have 250,000+ miles on the engine, I rebuild the VTC (I think) at 120,000, the valve tapping is becoming more and more noticeable and I'm not really interested in grounding the VTC.

My intent if components are available, disassemble the entire valve train, inspect and/or replace all that's worn. I might even consider doing a complete rebuild, but that also depends on parts availabilty

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

1) No - maybe from Nissan Japan but not here. JoeyChrome (IIRC that's his username) I believe bought the very last two complete assemblies a year or two ago

2) Kits are still plentiful - but the RIGHT kits are not. The kits came with two different sized springs, unfortunately no way to identify them because they all had the same part number. If you get a kit that does not have the taller spring, the assembly will just fail and clack again. You can do some searching with Aaron's old posts about it, I believe he's the one who discovered the taller vs. shorter spring issue and figured out that's why some rebuilt VTC's failed again so quickly. I think myself and Jeff (madmax123) got the last of the correct kits with the taller/correct spring. Of course it's possible there

3) There are a lot of individual VE parts listed on eBay as well. If you just search "VE30DE" there are lifters, valves, etc. all listed on there for the VE.

4) Yes that eBay listing was legit. But you know what's even MORE legit? This one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain...FYz8XU&vxp=mtr

$20 - yes, $20. There's no point buying one of those $150+ kits that are the same parts. CarPartsWholesale is apparently trying to get rid of their stock of these hence the incredible price. I bought a couple of them a year or two ago back but they're even cheaper now. I think I paid $30 for mine.

I'm running this exact kit in my turbo/blue VE as we speak. The ONLY thing to make note of is the lower chain guide.

Here's a picture of mine. This picture has an arrow I added pointing to the tensioner but again I'm only talking about the chain guide here, directly to the right of the tensioner.



I noticed that the metal part of my chain guide on the timing chain kit did not "float" as freely as my OEM. It seemed the diameter of the bolt hole on the aftermarket kit was just a tiny bit too small and thus when you tightened that Allen head bolt down it kind of locked the guide in place ever so slightly. This was the only thing that even remotely "concerned" me about my $30 timing chain kit but even that is slightly too strong a word.

Anyway, what I did, was just took the plastic guide piece off the of the aftermarket one and put it on my OEM metal piece. Problem solved.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

1) 10-4

2) Curious, over the years has anyone measured the height of the short and tall springs?

3) I remember when the VE wasn't as known and some vendors listed them as VG30DE. Good to know the VE parts are more known in today's time.

4) Heck yes, for $20 also I just bought on. Thanks for the heads up

I also got your reply to my private message, so thanks. Would you happen to have a picture of the main bearing girdle? I'm curious to know if there's room to roll in new main and rod bearings while the engine is still in.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

2) Yep - the "bad" short springs are 2.6" tall, the "good" tall springs are 2.8" tall.

4) About this I also meant to add that TonyJr is also running this exact same timing chain set in his car too. I recommended this same cheap kit to him as well, and I think when he bought it it was about $30 for him as well back then.

This is the best I have, I don't seem to have any pictures with the girdle off:

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Looks like the main bearing "caps" is the gridle itself. So rolling in main bearing might not be possible because the gridle will have to be taken completely off

TonyJr

Timing chain working good so far. It's been 8 months so far. I'll post pic soon when I start my rebuild in a month of earlier

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

1) I got my $20 timing chain kit in the mail today. Looks good, awesome deal
2) I've always read grounding the VTC is no guarantee the tapping will stop. Well my VTC is proof of that. I grounded them today, they are still tapping
3) After grounding, is the tapping suppose to stop immediately, after a test drive, after several hundred miles of driving?
4) How about the VTC solenoid valves, how are those checked? I put my ohm meter on the terminals and got a open circuit. Could be normal
5) I realized ordering VTC rebuild kit is a roll of the dice since we don't know which height spring will come in the kit.
6) Where can we buy rebuild kits?
7) I see the SR20DE crew are also victims of Nissan 90's timing technology
James, the eBay link you sent me with the new revised VTC's no longer exist. When I click the link it send me to a totally different website. I took a video of my tapping, will post soon

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Interesting VTC technology info. Not specific to Nissan but very similar

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Wouldn't you know it, the VTC actuator solenoid (left) I ohmed out was actually dead. The open circuit reading was a indication of that. I ohmed out the right solenoid and got 12 ohms.

I applied 12v and ground to the open solenoid (with the harness unplugged) and got nothing. Did the same to the right solenoid and I got clicking from the solenoid. I had a spared solenoid that ohmed good and clicked when I applied voltage and ground, so I installed my spare solenoid in the left head and attached both solenoid harness

Disconnect my VTC ground wire and started the engine. Sure enough the engine is still tapping but the tapping sounds different, if that makes sense. I'm going to drive for the few days with the VTC ground not attach and see what happens.

It still makes we wonder how soon does the VTC usually stop tapping after grounding?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

The grounding is instant, and the tapping is instant. It's literally like a light switch - instant on/off (quiet vs. tapping). If your VTC's are actually making noise even when grounded, then either your VTC's are soooooo far gone (which seems unlikely) or your tapping isn't actually your VTC's and indeed might actually be lifter noise. You grounded them via just tapping into the green/yellow wire on only ONE solenoid (I assume the non-dead one) - correct and grounding that wire?

You can buy rebuild kits from any dealer, but yes like you say it's a crapshoot as to whether you'll get the right spring sizes.

That listing I showed you only had a day left on it when I found it, so the listing is surely ended now. I'm sure if you message that seller they can re-list it for you. I highly doubt anybody bought them.

*edit* The link I PM'd you is working for me. Not sure why it's not working for you? I went into my sent PM's and clicked it and it works for me.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

I was afraid it's suppose to be like a light switch. I had grounded the left actuator. The link worked the first day you sent it. I'll recheck

Here a video of my tapping

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Your video definitely sounds like VTC noise to me. Does it ever go away when it warms up? Or it stays that noisy constantly?

I can't really tell how you grounded them - but you seem to have several wires in there. Can you describe exactly what/how you grounded them? You should only have one single wire. Not to second guess you but since I see several wires in there just want to make sure you grounded them correctly.

You just tapped into the yellow/green wire and grounded it correct?

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Guess what, my VTC is fine. It was a bad actuator that caused the VTC to tap. I can still hear some sort of knocking, which I'm thinking is rod bearing. After seeing one of Tony's video with his old pan off, it confirms I can probably drop the main bearing girdle and roll in new main and rod bearings, which I will probably do sometime soon. My engine has 252,000 miles and all internal parts are original

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

And yes James, I only grounded the yellow/green wire

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

It's been a long time since I've Googled "VE30DE" and I see parts availability has come a long way. I did come across this info which you probably already knew and unrelated to the VTC

"A major difference between the VE30DE and the VG30DE engine is the heads. The low under-hood clearance on the 1992–1994 Nissan Maxima demanded a special head to be developed with 30°, rather than 46°, between the valves. Lack of space also demanded a redesigned camshaft drive system, so a special chain drive was developed. The engine is otherwise similar to the VG30DE"

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Cool beans - did you happen to have a spare actuator sitting around to replace it with?

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Yes I did, I've had it in my tool box for many years

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

I know the importance of correct valve and ignition timing, so I have to say this. In the past few days, my engine has idled much, much smoother in gear than it ever had in a long time.

My vibration at idle in gear was getting so bad, I would sometimes put it in neutral whenever someone was riding with me. Over the past several years, I just summed it up as 90's technology in a 250,000 engine.

Since correcting my VTC actuator. most of my vibration at idle has gone away.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Well, it's back. The tapping noise and this time it seems louder and more distinct than before.

The VTC solenoid in the right head has been leaking oil (very minor) for years. And it's leaking oil where the electrical connector plugs in. Once again I tried grounding the VTC and noise did not go away. It kept tapping

I checked both solenoids and they measured 12-13 ohms. I applied positive and negative to both solenoid and I can hear them click.

Now it's time to search local junk yards, classified section and internet to see if I can find any solenoids. If I can't find anything, it may be time to get rid of the car. Parts availability for this 90's variable cam technology has become non-existent. Besides the loud tapping (which catches everyone attention) the engine has lost power. You can tell the valve timing is way off

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

It's all about dat 3000 block VG gang yo.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

If I had a clean 3rd gen VG, I might consider continueing. 3rd gens have become rarity in the salvage yards which is not good.

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. I used to spot at least 3 per visit. Now there are times I don't see one. Last weekend. I saw my Black 91 SE in the Pick-A-Part. I had to give it up due to not passing SMOG and the structure issue on the front passenger struct housing.

I forgot to add I live in an apartment, and have no way of storing it.
Never again.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I think I have some extra solenoids in my attic if you want. Mine have always leaked too and gotten oil in/around the connectors but never caused any issues. I can't imagine you've now had TWO failed solenoids when I've never had a single one fail any any of my four VE's over the years. I can't say I remember hearing about anybody else having that issue with the actual solenoids. Are you certain at this point that you don't have run of the mill valve tapping noise seeing as grounding the VTC's does not change the noise?

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

James, honestly at this point I have no idea what's making the noise. VTC, valvetrain, timing chain, whatever. I'll post another video sometime soon.

I also tested the two solenoids and they tested good in my book. 12-13 ohms each and when I apply positive/negative, I can hear them click

Same thing when I ground the VTC's with the engine running, I can hear something click but the sound doesn't go away.

I'm hoping the one that's leaking oil is leaking oil internally and not diverting the oil pressure/flow where it needs to go.

I'll take your spare solemoids if you can find them, thanks.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Does it come a time where there's possibly no stopping the VTC valve tapping noise? Regardless of being ground or not.

I'm afraid the writing is on the wall for my VE.