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So apparently Nissan doesn't think it's necessary to include this specification in the service manual. Long story short, the clutch will not disengage. Clutch pedal pressure feels normal. I was accelerating on the on-ramp, popped out of gear and would not go back in. On a couple of attempts there was not much resistance in the clutch pedal, but then pressure returned. After inspection, the slave will push the fork at what appears to be a sufficient distance, but there is not much fluid coming out when I open the bleeder. I lost track of the times I attempted. So there may be some air in there preventing sufficient strike rod travel, but without knowing the specification, I can't be sure. There were whining sounds and whatnot when I was driving back home, and my initial thought was that something broke, however If I drop the tranny and find out there is nothing wrong with the clutch, fork, or throwout bearing, it's going to be a waste. I pulled the starter off and there is some pressure released from the clutch. I can push and pull the car a bit when in gear and the clutch pedal down, but if I try to start the car it will lunge forward, so it is still partially engaged with the flywheel.
Looks pretty consistent and sufficient to me. Sure doesn't sound right though. Not sure if it squeaked before or not. There's been some sound at the master cylinder for several years now, but the squeak in the video sounds pretty close to the camera.
You shouldn't need to adjust the rod. It very likely needs to be bled, or, failing that, the slave/master is bad. You'll know if the master is bad if you see brake fluid leaking from the master where the rod comes out. Check for leaks behind the boot on the slave cylinder too.
The squeak you hear in the engine bay is normal, its the sound of the piston rubbing against the clutch fork.
It could also be a broken pressure plate diaphragm. but I would be incredibly surprised if that was actually the issue.
Your issue is between the pedal and the clutch fork. You could use the parts cannon and replace both master and slave, they're not expensive, if you really don't feel like messing with it. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the hose, thinking about it just now, if it was swollen internally, that could easily cause the issue.
You shouldn't need to adjust the rod. It very likely needs to be bled, or, failing that, the slave/master is bad. You'll know if the master is bad if you see brake fluid leaking from the master where the rod comes out. Check for leaks behind the boot on the slave cylinder too.
The squeak you hear in the engine bay is normal, its the sound of the piston rubbing against the clutch fork.
It could also be a broken pressure plate diaphragm. but I would be incredibly surprised if that was actually the issue.
Your issue is between the pedal and the clutch fork. You could use the parts cannon and replace both master and slave, they're not expensive, if you really don't feel like messing with it. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the hose, thinking about it just now, if it was swollen internally, that could easily cause the issue.
Hey what's up man, still got that max? I ended up dropping the transmission because I spent more than enough time bleeding the system, I even swapped slaves with a spare that I had on hand. Both gave me the same result. So it was pretty apparent that the hydraulics were not the issue. I didn't even have to take the clutch housing off to see the problem.
So the displaced spring was jammed in the diaphragm keeping pressure against the flywheel. Thankfully I had a Valeo clutch kit that I bought probably 8 years ago for $30 from some local guy. I wish it were OEM, hopefully it doesn't feel much different than what I'm used to. Took the opportunity to replace my steering rack as well which I needed to do for a long time but was dreading. Not too much room to work there when the transmission is installed.
I'm doing my timing belt, tensioner, stud and spring after I get the transmission bolted up, then finally welding on a factory pearl core support that I cut out from PNP a couple months ago. Ironically these were the only jobs I had planned on doing before the clutch broke. Glad it didn't happen after I had already replaced the timing belt and core support though.
Hey what's up man, still got that max? I ended up dropping the transmission because I spent more than enough time bleeding the system, I even swapped slaves with a spare that I had on hand. Both gave me the same result. So it was pretty apparent that the hydraulics were not the issue. I didn't even have to take the clutch housing off to see the problem.
So the displaced spring was jammed in the diaphragm keeping pressure against the flywheel. Thankfully I had a Valeo clutch kit that I bought probably 8 years ago for $30 from some local guy. I wish it were OEM, hopefully it doesn't feel much different than what I'm used to. Took the opportunity to replace my steering rack as well which I needed to do for a long time but was dreading. Not too much room to work there when the transmission is installed.
I'm doing my timing belt, tensioner, stud and spring after I get the transmission bolted up, then finally welding on a factory pearl core support that I cut out from PNP a couple months ago. Ironically these were the only jobs I had planned on doing before the clutch broke. Glad it didn't happen after I had already replaced the timing belt and core support though.
Hah, go figure, the one time the simplest answer wasn't the right one LOL well, good that you found the cause and have the parts, saves a huge hassle.
I do indeed still have mine, though I am waffling around on selling it, since most of the time it just sits. Sort of at a crossroads with it, keeping it going and cleaning it up one day, vs drive it til it dies, vs selling it with the knowledge it'll die a horrible death at the hands of a random, run into the ground after all the efforts to get it running smoothly again.
I love driving it, love the car, I just can't dedicate the money and time to it that it needs to get the body cleaned up and the destroyed leather seats replaced.
I was actually just wondering if you still had yours, a pearl max came through the shop the other day, reminded me of yours.
The broken off tab feels like under-engineered compared to the springs.
It's kind of skimpy, but it did last 26 years (155k). I may have initiated the damage a few months ago, when I tortured the clutch a couple times. Felt different for at least a few days, or maybe I just got used to it.
Originally Posted by Levsimus
Hah, go figure, the one time the simplest answer wasn't the right one LOL well, good that you found the cause and have the parts, saves a huge hassle.
I do indeed still have mine, though I am waffling around on selling it, since most of the time it just sits. Sort of at a crossroads with it, keeping it going and cleaning it up one day, vs drive it til it dies, vs selling it with the knowledge it'll die a horrible death at the hands of a random, run into the ground after all the efforts to get it running smoothly again.
I love driving it, love the car, I just can't dedicate the money and time to it that it needs to get the body cleaned up and the destroyed leather seats replaced.
I was actually just wondering if you still had yours, a pearl max came through the shop the other day, reminded me of yours.
I got the transmission back in today. Clutch is operating smoothly, but there is no gear oil in there. I'll fill it and start it to check before draining the engine oil for the timing belt job. As much as I want to test the steering and clutch on the road, it's staying on the jack stands until I get everything else done.
Good to hear you still have your car. Maybe we can work a deal for seats.
Got a good shot here of the new clutch with the starter, radiator and condenser out.
I got the transmission back in today. Clutch is operating smoothly, but there is no gear oil in there. I'll fill it and start it to check before draining the engine oil for the timing belt job. As much as I want to test the steering and clutch on the road, it's staying on the jack stands until I get everything else done.
Good to hear you still have your car. Maybe we can work a deal for seats.
Oh boy, you're starting on that **** of a project. I don't envy you. Hopefully you'll have a better go of it than I did. I am loathe to do another timing belt with the engine in LOL
I take it you still have those seats? Probably good that you bought them when you did, I'm getting the impression Nissan ****canned a bunch of older inventory - a LOT of OEM stuff is coming up out of stock in the last year or two. Noticing a lot fewer third gens on the road and in yards. Good parts are OE/used parts are feeling hard to come by compared to a few years ago.
I'll hit ya up if I decide to clean the car up more. I'm waffling pretty hard. I'd like to get a 300ZX TT, and that would more than likely replace the Maxima. If a house comes up before then, I'll probably keep the Maxima and just save for an R32 Skyline.
Oh boy, you're starting on that **** of a project. I don't envy you. Hopefully you'll have a better go of it than I did. I am loathe to do another timing belt with the engine in LOL
I take it you still have those seats? Probably good that you bought them when you did, I'm getting the impression Nissan ****canned a bunch of older inventory - a LOT of OEM stuff is coming up out of stock in the last year or two. Noticing a lot fewer third gens on the road and in yards. Good parts are OE/used parts are feeling hard to come by compared to a few years ago.
I'll hit ya up if I decide to clean the car up more. I'm waffling pretty hard. I'd like to get a 300ZX TT, and that would more than likely replace the Maxima. If a house comes up before then, I'll probably keep the Maxima and just save for an R32 Skyline.
Timing belt wouldn't too bad if it were only the belt, but I'm doing cam and crank seals, water pump, thermostat, tensioner, stud and spring while I'm in there. All are OEM parts, and I'm not going to think twice about leaving it for another 100k miles. The belt I put on 12 years ago looked great after plenty of abuse, same with the original one that came off at 90k miles. I moved onto the core support job after removing everything except the crank and cam gears because I have neither a cam locking tool or gear puller. Plus, I lost the conical washer for the tensioner, and looked for about 2 hours for it. A couple hours after I gave up looking for it I went outside, looked at my shoes and said "watch it be in my shoe". It was in the second shoe I reached into.
As far as the seats go, I'd like to install them, but at the same I'd prefer to recover some used GXE cushions and keep the new ones as they are. I was thinking that maybe we could trade factory seats. The rear seat back is in great shape, but the others are beat up as yours are. I can help with factory take off covers for pretty cheap though. Send me a PM if you're interested.
06-03-2017, 03:13 AM
