3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994) Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.

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Old 08-22-2017, 03:10 PM
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So i let my friend borrow my maxima to do some shopping while i was at work and it broke down shortly after he left he said it just shut off at a stop light and wouldnt turn back on i started messing with it and found out the starter wasnt engaging every time i turned the key so i replaced it and now it turns over but wont start it just keeps flooding i checked spark and its getting spark but i also realized that if i hit the gas pedal while cranking it my rpm gauge goes to about 4500 i tried to check fault codes and i just flashes both lights a few times (both at the same time) then flashes 2 3 4 5
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:23 PM
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I'm not a 3rd Gen guy, but if the ecu can't tell what rpm the engine is cranking at, then it can't deliver proper ignition timing, or accurate fueling. You may have a bad crank sensor.
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:10 AM
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This is how you check the ECU codes:
  • Remove right side of lower center console cover
  • Get in a good position to see the red and green LED lights (this can be tricky, LOL)
  • Find the little diagnostic test mode selector. It's a tiny wheel that can be turned with a flat-head screw driver. Turn the diagnostic test mode selector with a screw driver fully clockwise once.
  • The red and green lights will flash together in a sequence of 1-2-3-4-5 and repeat. These are the different diagnostic modes available for testing. We are concerned with mode 3 (self-diagnosis mode)
  • After the inspection lamps have flashed 3 times, turn the diagnostic test mode selector fully counterclockwise.
  • You are now in Diagnostic Test Mode 3. The codes will start flashing via the red and green lights. They will also blink the Check Engine light up on the dash in the same sequence (which can be helpful because of how hard it is to wedge yourself in to where you can see the red and green lights). The benefit of the red and green lights is that they are a different color, making the codes easier to read. If you have to, however, you can get your code(s) from the flashing Check Engine Light.
  • I'll post what the codes indicate below, but once you have the codes, turn the diagnostic test mode selector clockwise again so it starts going through the 1-2-3-4-5 sequence again. Once it gets to 4 turn it counterclockwise to finish.

What the codes mean:

11. Camshaft position sensor
12. Mass air flow sensor (MAF)
13. Engine coolant temperature sensor (near the distributor)
14. Vehicle speed sensor
21. Ignition signal missing in primary coil
22. Fuel pump
31. ECU/ECM/ECCS control module
32. EGR function
33. Heated oxygen sensor
34. Knock sensor
35. EGR temperature sensor
43. Throttle position sensor
45. Fuel injector leak
51. Fuel injector
54. Automatic Transmission control
55. No malfunction

Source: Nissan Factory Service Manual
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bryan163
I'm not a 3rd Gen guy, but if the ecu can't tell what rpm the engine is cranking at, then it can't deliver proper ignition timing, or accurate fueling. You may have a bad crank sensor.
3rd gen doesnt have a crank sensor
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
This is how you check the ECU codes:
  • Remove right side of lower center console cover
  • Get in a good position to see the red and green LED lights (this can be tricky, LOL)
  • Find the little diagnostic test mode selector. It's a tiny wheel that can be turned with a flat-head screw driver. Turn the diagnostic test mode selector with a screw driver fully clockwise once.
  • The red and green lights will flash together in a sequence of 1-2-3-4-5 and repeat. These are the different diagnostic modes available for testing. We are concerned with mode 3 (self-diagnosis mode)
  • After the inspection lamps have flashed 3 times, turn the diagnostic test mode selector fully counterclockwise.
  • You are now in Diagnostic Test Mode 3. The codes will start flashing via the red and green lights. They will also blink the Check Engine light up on the dash in the same sequence (which can be helpful because of how hard it is to wedge yourself in to where you can see the red and green lights). The benefit of the red and green lights is that they are a different color, making the codes easier to read. If you have to, however, you can get your code(s) from the flashing Check Engine Light.
  • I'll post what the codes indicate below, but once you have the codes, turn the diagnostic test mode selector clockwise again so it starts going through the 1-2-3-4-5 sequence again. Once it gets to 4 turn it counterclockwise to finish.

What the codes mean:

11. Camshaft position sensor
12. Mass air flow sensor (MAF)
13. Engine coolant temperature sensor (near the distributor)
14. Vehicle speed sensor
21. Ignition signal missing in primary coil
22. Fuel pump
31. ECU/ECM/ECCS control module
32. EGR function
33. Heated oxygen sensor
34. Knock sensor
35. EGR temperature sensor
43. Throttle position sensor
45. Fuel injector leak
51. Fuel injector
54. Automatic Transmission control
55. No malfunction

Source: Nissan Factory Service Manual
i tried but it just keeps flashing both lights at the same time then going 2 3 4 5 i will try resetting it and trying again but when the car died the relay for the ecu blew
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
3rd gen doesnt have a crank sensor
The ve I believe has its own crank sensor and the vg's is built in the distributor.
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ac max 92
The ve I believe has its own crank sensor and the vg's is built in the distributor.
mine is vg30e but i could try replacing the distributor
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Old 09-09-2017, 09:08 PM
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Sorry i forgot to update this i still havent gotten to swap the distributor but i checked for codes again and the cel flashes 5 times then nothing then 5 times slow again... Isnt it supposed to flash slow then fast for the code
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:15 AM
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I believe 55 is no malfunction.
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ac max 92
I believe 55 is no malfunction.
it flashes 5 times slow both times i thought its supposed to flash slow then fast for ones and 10s places and how could i get no malfunction code but the car wont start
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:10 PM
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I believe ac max 92 is right. You aren't throwing any codes.

It doesn't mean you don't have a problem, just that your problem is not one covered by the codes.
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
I believe ac max 92 is right. You aren't throwing any codes.

It doesn't mean you don't have a problem, just that your problem is not one covered by the codes.
I get fuel and spark but nothing one of the comments before said the crankshaft position sensor so im going to get another distributor there is an 89 maxima at my local junkyard that was wrecked but still runs and drives i will try to pull it off that car
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Old 09-14-2017, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
I get fuel and spark but nothing one of the comments before said the crankshaft position sensor so im going to get another distributor there is an 89 maxima at my local junkyard that was wrecked but still runs and drives i will try to pull it off that car
i replaced the distributor and it still wont start but my tachometer goes up and down if i hit the pedal while cranking it over could it be a wiring problem
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:56 AM
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how old is that timing belt?
also you're sure you clocked the distributor correctly before installing it?
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
how old is that timing belt?
also you're sure you clocked the distributor correctly before installing it?
i dont know how old the timing belt is but just replaced the water pump 2 months ago and the timing belt still looked new and yes i did clock the distributor when i installed it it gets spark but it wont start
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
i dont know how old the timing belt is but just replaced the water pump 2 months ago and the timing belt still looked new and yes i did clock the distributor when i installed it it gets spark but it wont start
You could see the timing belt and you didn't replace it?
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
You could see the timing belt and you didn't replace it?
it still looked new so i didnt replace it but i have another belt to swap on when i got the car last year the guy i bought it from said he had replaced it when he bought it the year before but i dont know how many miles are on it
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:44 AM
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It can be easy to install the distributor backwards (180 degrees flipped) as well. Something to look for.
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
It can be easy to install the distributor backwards (180 degrees flipped) as well. Something to look for.
i will double check it when i can the car is currently at my exs house
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:47 AM
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I know this is unlikely but if the timing belt snapped at that stop light back when, would the engine still crank as it is doing for you?
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
I know this is unlikely but if the timing belt snapped at that stop light back when, would the engine still crank as it is doing for you?
what do you mean
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
what do you mean
Let's say that when your friend was driving the car and it died at the stop light that it died because the timing belt snapped. The car would still turn over but it would not start.

I just double-checked with a friend of mine who also has a VG30E Maxima. His timing belt stripped but the engine would still turn over.

My buddy says you can take the distributor cap off and watch for motor rotation. That would tell you if the timing belt was the issue.

I know it's unlikely from what you said, but I'm just throwing ideas at you since you are asking.
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
Let's say that when your friend was driving the car and it died at the stop light that it died because the timing belt snapped. The car would still turn over but it would not start.

I just double-checked with a friend of mine who also has a VG30E Maxima. His timing belt stripped but the engine would still turn over.

My buddy says you can take the distributor cap off and watch for motor rotation. That would tell you if the timing belt was the issue.

I know it's unlikely from what you said, but I'm just throwing ideas at you since you are asking.
i still get spark which means the distributor is moving so i dont think the belt snapped
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
i still get spark which means the distributor is moving so i dont think the belt snapped
My buddy asks: is it turning over unusually fast or slow?

Also, how did you determine you have fuel?
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:05 AM
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My buddy suggests lining up top-dead-center using the timing marks and checking the distributor position (which I mentioned as well, it's easy to flip it 180, though it wouldn't explain why it happened originally).
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:05 AM
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It cranks over the same but sometimes its faster sometimes slower but im pretty sure that is because it is flooded with gas i can smell it when i crank it over and i pulled the spark plugs and they are soaked
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:17 AM
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Alternative idea: I've heard of the factory alarm system preventing a start before under certain conditions.
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:23 AM
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I still feel like this could be a timing belt with some stripped teeth. It would still turn over, crank, get fuel, spark, but it wouldn't start.

It would also explain why it died at a stoplight. If it fell out of time it would die and then would not start.

Last edited by AzureblueZ; 09-15-2017 at 09:58 AM. Reason: I can't spell.
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Old 09-18-2017, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
I still feel like this could be a timing belt with some stripped teeth. It would still turn over, crank, get fuel, spark, but it wouldn't start.

It would also explain why it died at a stoplight. If it fell out of time it would die and then would not start.
i just checked it again the timing belt is still there but doesnt move when i turn over the motor and the distributor doesnt turn
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:10 AM
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The reason I mentioned the distributor is because you asked where the crank position sensor was on the vg. If your smelling fuel it could just as well be one or more bad injectors dumping fuel. Have you ohm tested the injectors to see if they're between 10-14 ohm? Sounds like you have fuel pressure up front so i doubt your fuel pump is the issue. Have you replaced any injectors recently or since you've owned the car? If the engine was flooded due to giving it gas while trying to crank it you may have to pull the fuel pump fuse, pull the plugs and crank it a few times to get the excess fuel out of the cylinders. Try ohm testing your injectors with a multi meter which is easy enough to do.
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:44 AM
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Also looking back in your posts you mention a relay blew? Did it stick you mean? Did the main engine fuse under the hood pop? If so you may also have a short somewhere? Just some other things to look at.
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ac max 92
Also looking back in your posts you mention a relay blew? Did it stick you mean? Did the main engine fuse under the hood pop? If so you may also have a short somewhere? Just some other things to look at.
i think the timing belt lost a few teeth like i said in my last comment the timing belt is still there but doesnt move when i turn motor over and yes i replaced the main engine relay because when i pulled it it smelled burnt the new one hasnt blown so i dont think it is a short
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
i just checked it again the timing belt is still there but doesnt move when i turn over the motor and the distributor doesnt turn
There it is

There is a pretty good chance that you'll be fine if you replace the timing belt and get the timing set properly. Might be a good opportunity to replace all the related timing goodies. I can get you a list and maybe some part numbers if you're interested. Certain years used a different style of belt than others.

Sorry I missed your reply for so long. You may already have it back on the road by now.

I have lots of info on this because I just did mine a few months back. I also did the same job 10 years ago.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
There it is

There is a pretty good chance that you'll be fine if you replace the timing belt and get the timing set properly. Might be a good opportunity to replace all the related timing goodies. I can get you a list and maybe some part numbers if you're interested. Certain years used a different style of belt than others.

Sorry I missed your reply for so long. You may already have it back on the road by now.

I have lots of info on this because I just did mine a few months back. I also did the same job 10 years ago.
i have a new belt and tensioner but i havent gotten to work on it its still sitting at my exs house i was going to have it towed here but someone stole my bank account info and wiped my account a few days ago so im pretty short on money at the moment
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:26 AM
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Oh man that's terrible! Sorry to hear that. I hope you can get that situation sorted out and recover some of what you lost.

If you need any part numbers you don't have for any of the extra goodies around the timing belt job, just let me know.

Take particular note of the style of teeth on your old belt and make sure the new belt matches. Some belts were the "round tooth" style and some were the "square tooth." It is, of course, imperative that it matches. The new belt won't fit the cam gears and timing gear if it's the wrong style. If you're not sure, you can call a Nissan dealer, give them your VIN, and they will make sure it is the correct style (round vs. square).
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Old 09-27-2017, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
Oh man that's terrible! Sorry to hear that. I hope you can get that situation sorted out and recover some of what you lost.

If you need any part numbers you don't have for any of the extra goodies around the timing belt job, just let me know.

Take particular note of the style of teeth on your old belt and make sure the new belt matches. Some belts were the "round tooth" style and some were the "square tooth." It is, of course, imperative that it matches. The new belt won't fit the cam gears and timing gear if it's the wrong style. If you're not sure, you can call a Nissan dealer, give them your VIN, and they will make sure it is the correct style (round vs. square).
i already checked it mine is round tooth and i have a new round tooth belt and i just got my money back a few hours ago and im planning on towing both my cars today (93 maxima and 91 rx7) and im going to try and get them both back on the road soon
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Old 09-27-2017, 01:57 PM
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Rock on. Good luck! If you think to, let us know how it goes
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Old 09-27-2017, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AzureblueZ
Rock on. Good luck! If you think to, let us know how it goes
i just got off the phone with the tow truck company they said they cant tow them until 9am i will be working on the maxima on friday and i will make sure to tell you guys how it goes
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Old 09-29-2017, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
i just got off the phone with the tow truck company they said they cant tow them until 9am i will be working on the maxima on friday and i will make sure to tell you guys how it goes
i got the car here and swapped the belt (old one had quite a few teeth missing) i got it timed and the new belt on then cranked it over and it skipped timing even though i have it completely tightened
edit: the new tensioner didnt come with a new spring so i tried to use the old spring and didnt realize it was broken so i ordered a new spring it should be here on Wednesday

Last edited by That_93maxima; 09-29-2017 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by That_93maxima
i got the car here and swapped the belt (old one had quite a few teeth missing) i got it timed and the new belt on then cranked it over and it skipped timing even though i have it completely tightened
edit: the new tensioner didnt come with a new spring so i tried to use the old spring and didnt realize it was broken so i ordered a new spring it should be here on Wednesday
so im having another problem its still jumping time i replaced the belt + the tensioner and spring but i try to crank it over and nothing i set it back to tdc and check the timing and the belt is way off i dont know what is going on
edit: i reset the distributor timing and got it to almost start but the valves are done for... i can hear the compression seeping out while cranking it

Last edited by That_93maxima; 10-04-2017 at 02:33 AM.
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