No start
#1
No start
So i let my friend borrow my maxima to do some shopping while i was at work and it broke down shortly after he left he said it just shut off at a stop light and wouldnt turn back on i started messing with it and found out the starter wasnt engaging every time i turned the key so i replaced it and now it turns over but wont start it just keeps flooding i checked spark and its getting spark but i also realized that if i hit the gas pedal while cranking it my rpm gauge goes to about 4500 i tried to check fault codes and i just flashes both lights a few times (both at the same time) then flashes 2 3 4 5
#2
I'm not a 3rd Gen guy, but if the ecu can't tell what rpm the engine is cranking at, then it can't deliver proper ignition timing, or accurate fueling. You may have a bad crank sensor.
#3
This is how you check the ECU codes:
What the codes mean:
11. Camshaft position sensor
12. Mass air flow sensor (MAF)
13. Engine coolant temperature sensor (near the distributor)
14. Vehicle speed sensor
21. Ignition signal missing in primary coil
22. Fuel pump
31. ECU/ECM/ECCS control module
32. EGR function
33. Heated oxygen sensor
34. Knock sensor
35. EGR temperature sensor
43. Throttle position sensor
45. Fuel injector leak
51. Fuel injector
54. Automatic Transmission control
55. No malfunction
Source: Nissan Factory Service Manual
- Remove right side of lower center console cover
- Get in a good position to see the red and green LED lights (this can be tricky, LOL)
- Find the little diagnostic test mode selector. It's a tiny wheel that can be turned with a flat-head screw driver. Turn the diagnostic test mode selector with a screw driver fully clockwise once.
- The red and green lights will flash together in a sequence of 1-2-3-4-5 and repeat. These are the different diagnostic modes available for testing. We are concerned with mode 3 (self-diagnosis mode)
- After the inspection lamps have flashed 3 times, turn the diagnostic test mode selector fully counterclockwise.
- You are now in Diagnostic Test Mode 3. The codes will start flashing via the red and green lights. They will also blink the Check Engine light up on the dash in the same sequence (which can be helpful because of how hard it is to wedge yourself in to where you can see the red and green lights). The benefit of the red and green lights is that they are a different color, making the codes easier to read. If you have to, however, you can get your code(s) from the flashing Check Engine Light.
- I'll post what the codes indicate below, but once you have the codes, turn the diagnostic test mode selector clockwise again so it starts going through the 1-2-3-4-5 sequence again. Once it gets to 4 turn it counterclockwise to finish.
What the codes mean:
11. Camshaft position sensor
12. Mass air flow sensor (MAF)
13. Engine coolant temperature sensor (near the distributor)
14. Vehicle speed sensor
21. Ignition signal missing in primary coil
22. Fuel pump
31. ECU/ECM/ECCS control module
32. EGR function
33. Heated oxygen sensor
34. Knock sensor
35. EGR temperature sensor
43. Throttle position sensor
45. Fuel injector leak
51. Fuel injector
54. Automatic Transmission control
55. No malfunction
Source: Nissan Factory Service Manual
#4
#5
This is how you check the ECU codes:
What the codes mean:
11. Camshaft position sensor
12. Mass air flow sensor (MAF)
13. Engine coolant temperature sensor (near the distributor)
14. Vehicle speed sensor
21. Ignition signal missing in primary coil
22. Fuel pump
31. ECU/ECM/ECCS control module
32. EGR function
33. Heated oxygen sensor
34. Knock sensor
35. EGR temperature sensor
43. Throttle position sensor
45. Fuel injector leak
51. Fuel injector
54. Automatic Transmission control
55. No malfunction
Source: Nissan Factory Service Manual
- Remove right side of lower center console cover
- Get in a good position to see the red and green LED lights (this can be tricky, LOL)
- Find the little diagnostic test mode selector. It's a tiny wheel that can be turned with a flat-head screw driver. Turn the diagnostic test mode selector with a screw driver fully clockwise once.
- The red and green lights will flash together in a sequence of 1-2-3-4-5 and repeat. These are the different diagnostic modes available for testing. We are concerned with mode 3 (self-diagnosis mode)
- After the inspection lamps have flashed 3 times, turn the diagnostic test mode selector fully counterclockwise.
- You are now in Diagnostic Test Mode 3. The codes will start flashing via the red and green lights. They will also blink the Check Engine light up on the dash in the same sequence (which can be helpful because of how hard it is to wedge yourself in to where you can see the red and green lights). The benefit of the red and green lights is that they are a different color, making the codes easier to read. If you have to, however, you can get your code(s) from the flashing Check Engine Light.
- I'll post what the codes indicate below, but once you have the codes, turn the diagnostic test mode selector clockwise again so it starts going through the 1-2-3-4-5 sequence again. Once it gets to 4 turn it counterclockwise to finish.
What the codes mean:
11. Camshaft position sensor
12. Mass air flow sensor (MAF)
13. Engine coolant temperature sensor (near the distributor)
14. Vehicle speed sensor
21. Ignition signal missing in primary coil
22. Fuel pump
31. ECU/ECM/ECCS control module
32. EGR function
33. Heated oxygen sensor
34. Knock sensor
35. EGR temperature sensor
43. Throttle position sensor
45. Fuel injector leak
51. Fuel injector
54. Automatic Transmission control
55. No malfunction
Source: Nissan Factory Service Manual
#8
Sorry i forgot to update this i still havent gotten to swap the distributor but i checked for codes again and the cel flashes 5 times then nothing then 5 times slow again... Isnt it supposed to flash slow then fast for the code
#10
#12
I get fuel and spark but nothing one of the comments before said the crankshaft position sensor so im going to get another distributor there is an 89 maxima at my local junkyard that was wrecked but still runs and drives i will try to pull it off that car
#13
i replaced the distributor and it still wont start but my tachometer goes up and down if i hit the pedal while cranking it over could it be a wiring problem
#15
i dont know how old the timing belt is but just replaced the water pump 2 months ago and the timing belt still looked new and yes i did clock the distributor when i installed it it gets spark but it wont start
#16
You could see the timing belt and you didn't replace it?
#17
it still looked new so i didnt replace it but i have another belt to swap on when i got the car last year the guy i bought it from said he had replaced it when he bought it the year before but i dont know how many miles are on it
#22
Let's say that when your friend was driving the car and it died at the stop light that it died because the timing belt snapped. The car would still turn over but it would not start.
I just double-checked with a friend of mine who also has a VG30E Maxima. His timing belt stripped but the engine would still turn over.
My buddy says you can take the distributor cap off and watch for motor rotation. That would tell you if the timing belt was the issue.
I know it's unlikely from what you said, but I'm just throwing ideas at you since you are asking.
I just double-checked with a friend of mine who also has a VG30E Maxima. His timing belt stripped but the engine would still turn over.
My buddy says you can take the distributor cap off and watch for motor rotation. That would tell you if the timing belt was the issue.
I know it's unlikely from what you said, but I'm just throwing ideas at you since you are asking.
#23
Let's say that when your friend was driving the car and it died at the stop light that it died because the timing belt snapped. The car would still turn over but it would not start.
I just double-checked with a friend of mine who also has a VG30E Maxima. His timing belt stripped but the engine would still turn over.
My buddy says you can take the distributor cap off and watch for motor rotation. That would tell you if the timing belt was the issue.
I know it's unlikely from what you said, but I'm just throwing ideas at you since you are asking.
I just double-checked with a friend of mine who also has a VG30E Maxima. His timing belt stripped but the engine would still turn over.
My buddy says you can take the distributor cap off and watch for motor rotation. That would tell you if the timing belt was the issue.
I know it's unlikely from what you said, but I'm just throwing ideas at you since you are asking.
#24
#28
I still feel like this could be a timing belt with some stripped teeth. It would still turn over, crank, get fuel, spark, but it wouldn't start.
It would also explain why it died at a stoplight. If it fell out of time it would die and then would not start.
It would also explain why it died at a stoplight. If it fell out of time it would die and then would not start.
Last edited by AzureblueZ; 09-15-2017 at 09:58 AM. Reason: I can't spell.
#29
i just checked it again the timing belt is still there but doesnt move when i turn over the motor and the distributor doesnt turn
#30
The reason I mentioned the distributor is because you asked where the crank position sensor was on the vg. If your smelling fuel it could just as well be one or more bad injectors dumping fuel. Have you ohm tested the injectors to see if they're between 10-14 ohm? Sounds like you have fuel pressure up front so i doubt your fuel pump is the issue. Have you replaced any injectors recently or since you've owned the car? If the engine was flooded due to giving it gas while trying to crank it you may have to pull the fuel pump fuse, pull the plugs and crank it a few times to get the excess fuel out of the cylinders. Try ohm testing your injectors with a multi meter which is easy enough to do.
#31
Also looking back in your posts you mention a relay blew? Did it stick you mean? Did the main engine fuse under the hood pop? If so you may also have a short somewhere? Just some other things to look at.
#32
i think the timing belt lost a few teeth like i said in my last comment the timing belt is still there but doesnt move when i turn motor over and yes i replaced the main engine relay because when i pulled it it smelled burnt the new one hasnt blown so i dont think it is a short
#33
There is a pretty good chance that you'll be fine if you replace the timing belt and get the timing set properly. Might be a good opportunity to replace all the related timing goodies. I can get you a list and maybe some part numbers if you're interested. Certain years used a different style of belt than others.
Sorry I missed your reply for so long. You may already have it back on the road by now.
I have lots of info on this because I just did mine a few months back. I also did the same job 10 years ago.
#34
There it is
There is a pretty good chance that you'll be fine if you replace the timing belt and get the timing set properly. Might be a good opportunity to replace all the related timing goodies. I can get you a list and maybe some part numbers if you're interested. Certain years used a different style of belt than others.
Sorry I missed your reply for so long. You may already have it back on the road by now.
I have lots of info on this because I just did mine a few months back. I also did the same job 10 years ago.
There is a pretty good chance that you'll be fine if you replace the timing belt and get the timing set properly. Might be a good opportunity to replace all the related timing goodies. I can get you a list and maybe some part numbers if you're interested. Certain years used a different style of belt than others.
Sorry I missed your reply for so long. You may already have it back on the road by now.
I have lots of info on this because I just did mine a few months back. I also did the same job 10 years ago.
#35
Oh man that's terrible! Sorry to hear that. I hope you can get that situation sorted out and recover some of what you lost.
If you need any part numbers you don't have for any of the extra goodies around the timing belt job, just let me know.
Take particular note of the style of teeth on your old belt and make sure the new belt matches. Some belts were the "round tooth" style and some were the "square tooth." It is, of course, imperative that it matches. The new belt won't fit the cam gears and timing gear if it's the wrong style. If you're not sure, you can call a Nissan dealer, give them your VIN, and they will make sure it is the correct style (round vs. square).
If you need any part numbers you don't have for any of the extra goodies around the timing belt job, just let me know.
Take particular note of the style of teeth on your old belt and make sure the new belt matches. Some belts were the "round tooth" style and some were the "square tooth." It is, of course, imperative that it matches. The new belt won't fit the cam gears and timing gear if it's the wrong style. If you're not sure, you can call a Nissan dealer, give them your VIN, and they will make sure it is the correct style (round vs. square).
#36
Oh man that's terrible! Sorry to hear that. I hope you can get that situation sorted out and recover some of what you lost.
If you need any part numbers you don't have for any of the extra goodies around the timing belt job, just let me know.
Take particular note of the style of teeth on your old belt and make sure the new belt matches. Some belts were the "round tooth" style and some were the "square tooth." It is, of course, imperative that it matches. The new belt won't fit the cam gears and timing gear if it's the wrong style. If you're not sure, you can call a Nissan dealer, give them your VIN, and they will make sure it is the correct style (round vs. square).
If you need any part numbers you don't have for any of the extra goodies around the timing belt job, just let me know.
Take particular note of the style of teeth on your old belt and make sure the new belt matches. Some belts were the "round tooth" style and some were the "square tooth." It is, of course, imperative that it matches. The new belt won't fit the cam gears and timing gear if it's the wrong style. If you're not sure, you can call a Nissan dealer, give them your VIN, and they will make sure it is the correct style (round vs. square).
#38
#39
edit: the new tensioner didnt come with a new spring so i tried to use the old spring and didnt realize it was broken so i ordered a new spring it should be here on Wednesday
Last edited by That_93maxima; 09-29-2017 at 05:28 PM.
#40
i got the car here and swapped the belt (old one had quite a few teeth missing) i got it timed and the new belt on then cranked it over and it skipped timing even though i have it completely tightened
edit: the new tensioner didnt come with a new spring so i tried to use the old spring and didnt realize it was broken so i ordered a new spring it should be here on Wednesday
edit: the new tensioner didnt come with a new spring so i tried to use the old spring and didnt realize it was broken so i ordered a new spring it should be here on Wednesday
edit: i reset the distributor timing and got it to almost start but the valves are done for... i can hear the compression seeping out while cranking it
Last edited by That_93maxima; 10-04-2017 at 02:33 AM.