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Daughter called and car (1991 Stanza) is not moving anymore. ..she exited the Cross Island Pkwy and lost all motion and rolled to a stop in our local exit...Tranny is a goner at 204,000 miles ((loaded with metallic specs) ,fluid is full, actually looks overfilled now? Bright red but its been changed regularly and has a spin out inline filter installed in the return line.. ...no forward no reverse...pulled out the trans today...it was a challange...it's a small transmission but its damn heavy or I'm am getting old...probably both.
I have rebuilt Chevy T350 and T200R4 many years ago with success but it was following along with a nice video on VCR (LOL) and a ATSG manual...there is no video on the RE4O2A that im aware of, but there is the ATSG manual....sooo, anyone have success rebuilding their trans??? What tools are needed or can be rigged? Anyone recommend a competent bench builder for these units in Long Island?
if you have rebuilt previous transmissions then this is very similar.
the only difference is the VB/solenoids orientation is different compared to a RWD unit.
what's the condition of the rest of the car. at 200K+ is the vehicle worth fixing? if you want to limp it for a few more months you can roll the dice on a junkyard trans and keep that moving. if you REALLY want to play with a FWD trans you can spend that time to rebuilt the broken unit that you pull out of the car while the junkyard unit is in service.
Figure it will run you a grand to do the jy swap and rebuild route
DanNY...Thanks for the reply...it's still in amazing condition ...runs excellent... body and interior is really nice and ice cold A/C..., we did the timing chain, head gasket , water pump , oil pan seals last summer...
...did you rebuild your RE4FO2A? I ordered the ATSG book today. I have a Nissan factory shop manual but its not going to get me through it...some of the tools used to check depth measurements look like there going to be impossible to find. LOL.
...I sprayed it down with Purple power and let it soak...washed it off with a portable RV type water heater....it removed the bulk of the caked on grease/dirt....I started the disassembly following the factory manual...the ATSG book should be delivered tomorrow.
Busy day doing the disassemble...pulled off speedometer, governer , valve body lid, valve body, assorted harness and sensors and unbolted the two case half sections....labeled everything and took many pictures....tomorrow I will test/check the 4 pack of solinoids on the bottom of the valve body., and pull the oil pump and check it carefully for wear.
...the ATSG book was delivered today..disappointed in it...it's just the Nissan trans manual been copied and put in a pamphlet...it has less info in that it doesn't show how to measure the depth settings that are in the factory manual...I've been searching EBay for that tool with no luck.
...did a couple more hrs on it today...the two half cases are stripped of all parts To base now...bought a large plastic storage container and filled it with cleaning solution and soaked both parts in Purplepower and hot water..used a brush to clean to tough spots...looks decent....im seeing some excess wear behind the oil pump on the casting...looks like high milage grooves cut into the aluminum...I saw a video on the tube and he mentions taking it to a machinist and cutting it flat to ensure pump pressure doesnt bleed off.....I 'll price around and see what that will cost or see if a new bell houseing is available..doubt it....tomorrow I'll test the solinoids for functioning.
...tested the 5 solinoids on the valve body and only two click when tested with 9 volt battery...at first I tested them with a Ohm meter and all were in spec but most will not function with voltage applied? At least i finally found the smoking gun. I need to stop by a transmission parts supplier and get an idea of the availability/ cost of parts.
...back at it again...good news bad news....went to a rebuilder/parts house in Brooklyn and got to talk with a real old rebuilder...he mentioned when checking the solinoids to ohm test and then use 12 volts to see if it clicks, but also mentioned to put a small paperclip in the solinoids to check for movement...he said some won't give off a detectable "click" but the movement is what is important. Sure enough, one that I thought was no good is fine. Bad news, called up Transtar Parts, big name trans parts outfit, and inquired for a replacement 4 pack solinoids set, nope out of stock and not likely to ever get more? Dammmmnnn, same as Rockauto....I asked if they had a tech who could recommend a substitute version? They will ask and find out if its possible next week. Looks like I might have to find a functional used set In a worse case ? Nissan wants 900...screw them.....picked up a rebuild kit, bushing kit, shift improver kit all on Amazon...decent kit, btw....anyone have any advice?
...overhauled the oil pump!....I had to buy a blind hole bushing remover (Harbor Freight) to extract these parts...I used my press to carefully press the new replacements to the proper depth and oil feed location.
...overhauled the high clutch assembly...New seals, frictions, and steels...I was able to add a extra steel by carefully scrapping/sanding off the clutch material on a old clutch piece and reinstalling...it allowed it to be set in the lower end of the specified clearance range of .055 - .071"....also air checked the assembly and the seals are not leaking...not a easy task getting those to install.
...more progress on the rebuild...overhauled the reverse drum with new bushing, seals and frictions/seals...also started adding the recommended parts from the TransGo kit.
Thanks James..my investment so far is (with Amazon shipping) Master kit with steels $137...Borg Warner band $15...full bushing kit $14.00...filter $5.00...Trans Go shift kit $28.00...Sonnax pressure regulator boost sleeve $12.00...Timing Solinoid $48.00...EBay cheapo and not to bad clutch compressor tool $22.00.... I'm still searching/pricing around for the four pack solinoids and a torque convertor.
Tomorrow the plan is to disassemble the valve body and see what kind of shape it's in...all the other sub assemblies are ready to be reinstalled into the case.
update...I bought a rebuilt torque convertor from PhoenixTrans on EBay for $130 shipped and a rebuilt Rostra valvebody with all solinoids for $240...rear main seal was $8.00...2 gallons of Wal-Mart Dex3 fluid.($20.00)
...installed the low clutch /reverse brake assembly in the bottom of case today...really sucks to get the new seals on the piston to drop into the case, but its done...tested it with compressed air and it snaps into operation...ve
y nice.
Last edited by mcx; Sep 23, 2019 at 08:31 AM.
Reason: Add pix
...damaged the oil pump on reassembly by cracking the vane retainer..stupid mistake....if someone has a spare they want to sell please send a message.thanks.
James....I'm thinking one of the pump rotors slipped out of position and was actually under the retainer as I was tightening in a cross cross manner......I suppose that caused the split...frustrating ,as it was assembled a few times already...the pump retainer or pump is not available anymore, I have searched high and low....project has been stalled in the garage....can you help locate one? LOL
I just completed another tranny swap on a 93 maxima and I still have the old tranny. If you think the parts are the same you are welcomed to it. FYI though, I have never tried to take an auto tranny apart and shipping the entire thing would probably be the last option.
I just completed another tranny swap on a 93 maxima and I still have the old tranny. If you think the parts are the same you are welcomed to it. FYI though, I have never tried to take an auto tranny apart and shipping the entire thing would probably be the last option.
...I found a local trans shop who dug through his stash and found a replacement for the broken vane retainer !! Nice guy ,who happens to put transmission disassembly videos all over Utube...anyway, my Rebuild proceeds again!!! I figured out the reason it cracked on reassembly. Placing the pump body over the vane assembly I didn’t center the cast iron rings so it didn’t drop in correctly.
...installed the oil filter ...than the paper gasket and placed the converter housing onto the case and carefully lowered into position..rtv on the bolt threads that enter the oil passages, anti seize on the others and torqued it down to spec...installed a cv axle and spun it and it seems good...no binding.
...set the brake band at four turns from snug by following the tip in the TransGo kit...btw, factory is set at 5.25 turns...I painted a white line to count the revolutions.
...disassembled the valve body to install the Transgo "white" spring in the pressure regulator channel and also to drill a .0775" hole in the separator plate...it's ready to be mounted on the case tomorrow.
Awesome man, great job. Nice find on the local transmission shop with the spare part you needed.
Thanks James...I went to Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon and bought a decent trans jack...no way I was using the floor jack to get this back into the car..I also ordered a rebuilt steering rack and hoses to replace since it’s a breeze to get at everything.
...started the reinstall and it’s attached to engine and one tranny mount...tomorrow will be the second mount and the assorted electrical connections, cv axles, etc.
...finished up the reinstall today...bled the steering rack and it feels great...refilled the transmission and it’s getting forward and reverse again...I didn’t have time to swap lic plates on her and see it it shifts correctly..,another day.
...played with the transmission Power/Comfort switch diagnostic checker and its all good..10 flashes and no pauses....the other good news is trans leak free after sitting over night...power steering rack had a small drip but a little extra tightening of the low pressure clamp seems to have stopped it.
