Rack and Pinion
02-18-2002, 05:35 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 174
Well, I wasn't sure if you could just change the boot. I know on the CV boot, when that goes, you have to change the whole axle. My axle used to go out at least twice a year. But if I can just change the boot, that would be great.
Originally posted by DanNY
if it steers ok and no leaks then just change the boot.
if it steers ok and no leaks then just change the boot.
02-18-2002, 10:16 PM
#5
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,941
Have you tried calling up some local stores and seeing if there's any such animal as a "split boot" for the steering? (Make sure you say "steering/R&P" boots or they might be dozing and think you mean CV!) Good luck and let us know.
02-19-2002, 03:10 AM
#8
WTF? not too expensive?! that's several hundred bucks!
a new bellows boot is about $10 from the dealer, and you won't even need an alignment if you do it right.
before you remove the tie rod end, clean the threads and stuff with brake cleaner and a wire brush.. then squirt it with some color of bright spray paint, so you can see exactly where the threads stop on the bolts. then unscrew the tie rod end and replace the boots. do both sides at the same time, and buy new tie rod end bushings at the same time. that'll put you about $30 for both parts on both sides if you do the labor yourself.
if you get the alignment off when you put it back together, then of course you'll need to have it aligned again. that's another $30-60. obviously only need front end, assuming the back was okay before...
whole job takes about an hour. it's messy, but easy to do and MUCH easier than changing out the entire steering rack.
a new bellows boot is about $10 from the dealer, and you won't even need an alignment if you do it right.
before you remove the tie rod end, clean the threads and stuff with brake cleaner and a wire brush.. then squirt it with some color of bright spray paint, so you can see exactly where the threads stop on the bolts. then unscrew the tie rod end and replace the boots. do both sides at the same time, and buy new tie rod end bushings at the same time. that'll put you about $30 for both parts on both sides if you do the labor yourself.
if you get the alignment off when you put it back together, then of course you'll need to have it aligned again. that's another $30-60. obviously only need front end, assuming the back was okay before...
whole job takes about an hour. it's messy, but easy to do and MUCH easier than changing out the entire steering rack.
02-19-2002, 06:04 AM
#9
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Posts: n/a
Well, I don't know exactly where you go for your parts but, I'd rather change the whole thing with a rebuilt and know that I have a reliable steering system. Alignment isn't too expensive either. That's why I shop around... There's a bargain around the corner..
02-19-2002, 06:20 AM
#10
IMO...do what you want..i say if it still works then leave it and swap boots..if you sleep better changing the entire rack..so be it. just don't complain about the cost of a rack..you can shop around...but the cheapest rebuild is not always the best.
02-19-2002, 06:55 AM
#11
hmmm rack from a salvage yard is $125 used.. and who knows how long it'll last.
rebuilt rack is over $300 from carparts.com.
new boots and bushings (which you'd have to replace if changing the rack anyway), $30.
it takes one hour to change the boots. it takes one DAY to change the rack.
why shoot the horse if it only needs a new shoe?
rebuilt rack is over $300 from carparts.com.
new boots and bushings (which you'd have to replace if changing the rack anyway), $30.
it takes one hour to change the boots. it takes one DAY to change the rack.
why shoot the horse if it only needs a new shoe?
02-19-2002, 11:19 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
what that guy just said... if the boot is just torn.. you can just replace the boot, and it should be fine.. i drove my maxima with a torn boot for several months.. nothing is wrong so far.
i just changed the boot and added new grease to th join.. thats all really to it.. i dont see any need to replace the whole rack.
i just changed the boot and added new grease to th join.. thats all really to it.. i dont see any need to replace the whole rack.
02-19-2002, 02:20 PM
#13
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Posts: n/a
Alright, I'm not saying it's the most economical thing to do or even the easiest. If you have a torn boot and you know it hasn't been that way for too long, meybe a boot change is better for you. Now a day to change the rack??? Where did you learn to do maintenance??? Also, has anyone ever heard of "Preventive Maintenance"? Again, if you have a known good system and you haven't been driving around like this for too long or driving on dirt or sandy roads, you should be fine to change the boots. All I'm saying is, I had the same problem and I changed the whole rack in about two and a half hours, than had an alignment for $30 and I am happy knowing that my steering is good for a while. I wouldn't feel confortable if I just shoved some grease in there and put boots on. Who know what dirt and grit is in there wearing your seals away. As for the price, try ROCKAUTO.COM and hit the red button when you get there. $172.14. For me, a small price to pay for a reliable steering system. I know if I ended up somewhere without power steering, I'd wish I had shot the horse. Preventive Maintenance is my way of doing business for my vehicles. Oh yeah, When you buy the complete rack and pinion, it comes ready to go and you don't have to put boots on it. They are already there.
If you feed your horse rocks, he'll undoubtedly will blow an O-ring
If you feed your horse rocks, he'll undoubtedly will blow an O-ring
06-05-2002, 12:50 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 781
Chilton's or Hanes manual on Rack and Pinion boot change?
I was wondering if anyone has a Hane's or Chilton's manual for a 3rd gen (91 SE) with instructions on how to change the Rack and Pinion "bellows" boots at each end between the rack and the tie rod? I'm sure I can figure it out, but why not have real instructions just to be safe. If anyone has it, could you scan the pages and perhaps email or post it on here? Thanks folks... I'm doing a friend a favor by changing them for him, it'll save him $380 from a Nissan dealer.
my email is young1976@hotmail.com
my email is young1976@hotmail.com
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