Jaybird180

The temperature here in Eastern NC is dropping down to 20-40. I seem to notice now that my GXE auto (198,000+ miles and still running strong) is taking a longer time to heat to normal temp. In fact, when I pull out in the morning to go to work, I get almost halfway there and then it will finally heat up. I drive most of the time at around 35mph. Today, the traffic was going about 55-60 on a long stetch of road, and I notice that the temp gauge begins to go back down. Is this normal for Max's to cool this much? I don't know, I've only had the car about 2 1/2 months now. Thank you for reading these few words.

Sith

iTrader: (1)

Is it leaking water or anti-freeze anywhere?
If it is leaking water and anti-freeze really bad then it's probably your water pump, or if it's not leaking too bad maybe a hole in a line or radiator.

If it's not leaking at all i'd say replace the Thermostat.
Good Luck.

brubenstein

The termostat is suppoed to regulate the amount of coolant flowing through the radiator to keep the engine at it's normal operating temp. The fact that your temp drops in the highway indicates that it's not closing. Another effect of the low engine temp is that the car will stay in a lower gear, trying to get the engine to heat up, and this will kill your gas milage. Flush the cooling system and replace the thermostat.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Just try the old truck driver's trick. Put a good sized piece of cardboard in front of your radiator to block wind. I've done this and it helps. Mine does the same thing and I've even got my timing advanced so it should run warmer, though I do also have a CAI. Try the cardboard, I live in Tennessee, near Virginia so it's been getting close to the same temp here too.

oaktreeguy

Definately thermostat, $5 item , 5 minutes to change. They don't last long. Some people will take them out totally in summer month's. There may not be one in there.

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

I've got the same problem with my 92 se, so I went to 2 local auto parts places (Napa and Checker, fyi) to price a thermostat, thinking that it's pretty cheap. The guy there told me....... $25!!! I looked at him as though he had lost his mind! I even gave him the exact specs on the engine, manufacturing date, everything! I know they've got to be joking. Aren't they???

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Yup, that doesn't surprise me at all.

the ones for the VG listed on courtesy's website are $11 each..
the ones for the VE on carparts.com are anywhere form $16 to $36 each.

$25 sounds about right for a local parts store.

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

I guess I'll have to buckle down and get a thermostat. But I've just read in a newsgroup about someone that had that same problem. Here's the answer they got (it's kinda long, so bear with it):

"1) Make sure the coolant system is full. Air pockets will detract from heater performance.

2) Make sure the thermostat is working. Does the temperature gauge show a normal reading? Does the upper radiator hose get really hot? A stuck-open thermostat may prevent the engine from reaching normal operating
temperature. This will detract from heater performance.

3) Check the air mix door and its control mechanism. The mix door blends cool outdoor air with heated air. If the mix door is in the 100% outdoor air position you will get no heat, even though the heater core may be hot.

4) Your Maxima may be equipped with a Water Control Valve. This valve controls the flow of engine coolant through the heater core. Its purpose is to keep the heater core cool while the A/C is running. It may be
operated by a steel wire control cable or by engine vacuum gated by a solenoid valve. If the Water Control Valve is closed you will not get any heat even though the engine is hot. See the Haynes '93-'99 Maxima manual, photo 11.7 on page 3-10 or the Chilton '93-'98 Maxima manual, Figure 18,
page 6-9. You may purchase these manuals at any large bookstore or auto parts store. You may find them on the shelf at your public library."

Hope it helps.