mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

Ok, i'm leaning on the injectors being bad cause we had them cleaned and this never came up until it was cleaned. When i start the car and give it about 1/4 throttle the things wants to die if i give it full throttle it will barely move then eventually will take off real hard. When it rains the thing wants to die unless i'm on full throttle. Any ideas? Also, sometimes when my tires spin out in the rain the tranny will all of the sudden only stay in a certain gear. Usuaully it stays in first or third gear then i have to switch the car off then back on and it works fine. Anyone experience any similar problems and know how to fix it? Thanks.

91mizzax

i am having nearly the same problem... my max was running pretty good until i did a self-diagnostic test. i turned the screw on the ecu into diagnostic mode (clockwise)... and there were no problems... then i tried to set it back to it's previous idle with no luck... the rpm's now jump up and down when idling, and my max hesitates when accelerating. i didn't have this problem before i jacked with the ecu.... is there a certain position that screw needs to be in for it to run correctly? i am going to check the injectors later... any comments would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

Have you checked your MAF sensor too?

91mizzax

how do i check it? it didn't come up as faulty/bad when i ran the diagnostic check on the ecu.... and should i disconnect the battery every time i change the idle control screw on the ecu so it can reset?

catman316

Hey!!! im having the very same problem as you!!!!
The Rpms drop up and down and mu muffler shakes, I think mabe my ecu its bad, the coil or my MAF sensor because I have check all the other things.
I will tell you if I find the problem. post you too if you solve the problem

brrrett

About checking the computer.

I recently checked the computer for problems and when I was turning it it wouldn't stop. Like I stripped it. I finally got it in diagnostics mode and nothing was wrong. I tried to get it to low idle mode again and it just kept turning forever and blinking like reset mode. The check engine light would blink with it. So i took the battery off for a minute and then tried again. It kept turning clock wise but I noticed a rough spot at a certain poit. So real softly I stopped on the rough spot and it checked itself again. VERY slightly I turned CW a little more and the lights stopped. I noticed when I did that the idle changed and then went to normal.

I haven't had the problem since.

Wierd but it seemed to work.

91mizzax

i checked my injectors... they seem to be fine. I am convinced that I should've never touched that ****ing ECU. I'm just gonna keep "slightly adjusting" the idle control screw until I get it back to normal. The hesitation when accelerating really ticks me off, and when my car warms up... the idle really jumps up and down. almost stalling then jumping up to 1200.. hopefully this won't continue.

HDMcLamb

I had the same problem, so I removed the vacuum from the EGR and haven't had a problem since.

91mizzax

OK, the max is almost back to normal.... I "fine-tuned" the idle adjustment screw while the ecu was in diagnostic mode... then turned the ecu screw back full counterclockwise, and she purred like a kitten...

ChrisCheezer

were on the ECU is this adjuster screw? i need to raise my idle badly! .. is it bad to bring it up to-much?

91mizzax

sorry about the wording in previous replies to this post.... the idle adjustment screw is not on the ecu.... go ahead... flame away. i'm gonna go stick my head in a hole for awhile.

ChrisCheezer

your good bro.! can you tell me how i can bring my idle up? were is the ajustment screw anyway?

91mizzax

on my max (91 se) the idle adjustment screw is on the top of the A.A.C. You have to pull off a small rubber plug in order to see the screw.

ChrisCheezer

THE AAC!!!! ok if I im thinking about the same thing as you are the AAC is that cylinder like thing comming out of the intake.. there is a rubber line going into it, comming form the "S" intake pipe.... is this right? then on top of that you see this little rubber plug you pull that off and their will be a odd looking screw.. is this it?
clockwise or counter-clockwise? what brings it up ??

thanx in advance

91mizzax

well, i am not that mechanically inclined but... if you have the same year and model as me that is where it's located.. turn counter-clockwise to raise idle....

DaBoxSE

iTrader: (5)

I cleaned out my AAC today. I took the 3 screws out, and pulled out the sensor and MY GOD! there was a mountain of carbon on it! I took a soft brass brush to it and scaped off all the carbon gently. then I took a dry towel and cleaned it all off. there was some crud inside too and I just wiped it all out. put it back together, and started it up... Next thing I know, my car wont idle lower than 1300. I thought I messed something up, but I shut the car off, left it for a while and started it back up and drove it around the parking lot. By the time I was done, it was idling PERFECTLY! Before this, my idle speed was messed. It would stay around 900-1k. you guys should definitely take a look at yours. Good Luck!

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

aac?

Cincy94Max

Turn screw on ECU clockwise to put it in self-diagnostic mode. When you're done checking the codes or setting the idle, turn the screw on the ECU counterclockwise. Pretty simple and yet I was baffled by the same problems until I discovered that I had forgotten to turn the stupid screw on the ECU fully counterclockwise. Go figure.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

what's kind of weird about that though is i checked the codes then turned the screw all of the way back and it was giving me idling trouble so i turned the screw a little bit clockwise and it stopped giving me idle trouble, for a little while.

Uncle Pete

iTrader: (1)

The AAC refers to the auxiliary air control valve. This is a stepper motor device that bleeds air into the inlet manifold without it passing through the main throttle chamber, thus controlling the idle speed.

tilt

This might be helpful. I couldnt find the forum link, but I had this copy and pasted to text on my drive.


idle speed adjustment
not sure if yours is 5-speed or auto. idle spec for 5-spd is 750 rpm +-50. someone here can give you what the spec is for auto. procedures are similar

1. locate your ECU from passenger side. it is behind and below the radio on the floor. remove the plastic piece that is hiding it. find the little adjustment **** in hole. (you can) turn it with a small screwdriver.

2. turn on your car. if manual, stay on flat surface, put it neutral, parking brake on.

3. on the ECU, turn the **** all the way to the clockwise until it can't move.

4. in the engine bay, locate the idle adjustment screw. in the pic below, it's circled on the bottom right with an arrow pointing to the screw.
<img src="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1235399&a=9121220&p=33703529"/>

this is what you turn to increase/decrease your idle speed.

5. check your idle speed as you turn the screw. i used the tach in the car. adjust to factory spec.

6. when adjusted to spec, turn **** on ECU all the way counterclockwise.

done.

this is from memory, i think i got most of it correct. someone correct me if something is not right.

good luck

andy

[Edited by andy90se5spd on 11-22-2000 at 09:39 AM]

jp91se

I know that the throttle body cleaning subject has just about been beaten to death..but as another member said, why put a bandaid on it? Wouldn't you rather find out what is making your idle so low and fix it? My idle was really low and varying (would intermitently drop to ~500 and back up to 600). Today I cleaned out my throttle body and damn was that nasty. Getting that old gasket off was a pain... anyways..it more or less fixed my idle problem. Next weekend I'm gonna try cleaning that AAC sensor that Clark was talkin about. Try it out.

3RDGEN

UM, guys we dont have idle screws. The idle is programed into the ecu. That screw controls how much air is allowed into the engine. You'll notice the sound when you open it.