this is direclty from the FAQ

Anyway, this kid soldered the alarm output directly to the circuit board and now my locks work perfectly all the time. If yours is hooked up like mine was, when you disarm the
alarm, the alarm will chirp (to indicate it is disarmed), and then you hear a bunch of clicks (if you're close enough--the relay is doing its thing), and then the door locks
pop--about a 1-2 second delay after the alarm is disarmed. With the output directly soldered, there is *no* delay, and the locks pop instantaneously with the alarm arming or
disarming. It's perfect.


Anyone know how to do this exaclty? what has to get wire to where? Thanks

Kevin

 

they told me what they did when they put my viper 800 with window and sunroof modules, but i forget..

talk to ny96max (anthony)

 

Do you actually want your locks to work this way, or do you NOT want the delay? I have mine with the 1-2 second delay, but it all depends on the battery charge. Mine seems to work much faster in the summer time than in the winter time. If you want to solder the wire INTO the circuit board, just take out the driver's side door switch and tap into the circuit where the green/yellow wire hooks up to. Then, all four doors will open at the same time. Good luck!

 

Yeah don;t want th delay just want an instan lock/unlock with the button. I will take a look at what they did and also look at what you said. ONe more quesiton, where is the relay that they would have hooked the keyless into? same place, drivers door?

KEvin

 

Our cars have a built in relay that requires a double pulse to lock /unlock. Wiring your alarm output directly to the solenoid will bypass this but i would recommend putting a relay and fuse inline with the wire.
And if you have a factory alarm, it might work as good.

 

Yes, I would think that they hooked up the relay in the drives's side switch, since all the power lock fuctions are controlled here.