Sick Max unidentified ECU codes
07-23-2002, 07:50 PM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8
Sick Max unidentified ECU codes
This is my first post here because I'm usually able to do a search and find the info I need. I've got a '98 Maxima SE 5spd. 50k. I've had it for about a year and it's never ran real well, it lags when you get on it at all. I figured some running good gas would cure the problem after a few tanks but it hasn't. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran great for a couple days but than went back to it's sickly ways.
Recently the check engine light has been coming on I got the codes and if I did it right they are:
4/13: unidentified 3/4: knock sensor 4/9: unidentified
Pulled the plugs (the 3 front ones) and they looked good.
I reset the check engine light and it has come on again so I'll check the codes and see if they're the same. Does any one have any ideas? Is cleaning the injectors something I can do myself, I've already tried running injector cleaner through the gas (Chevron Techron injector cleaner).
help....
Recently the check engine light has been coming on I got the codes and if I did it right they are:
4/13: unidentified 3/4: knock sensor 4/9: unidentified
Pulled the plugs (the 3 front ones) and they looked good.
I reset the check engine light and it has come on again so I'll check the codes and see if they're the same. Does any one have any ideas? Is cleaning the injectors something I can do myself, I've already tried running injector cleaner through the gas (Chevron Techron injector cleaner).
help....
07-23-2002, 08:07 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Canada
Posts: 325
Mmmmm. No wonder you have sputtery engine performance.
Looks like it's your oxygen sensors.
0413 Upstream oxygen sensor circuit slow response fault (left bank)
0409 Upstream oxygen sensor circuit slow response fault (right bank)
Basically both your front oxygen sensors are not working. "Slow response" might be fixed by cleaning them up with some carb cleaner (have you had crappy gas in there?), or they may need replacing outright.
The knock sensor code often kicks in with an oxygen sensor fault, so you may want to try addressing the oxygen sensors first and seeing if the knock sensor code goes away.
Looks like it's your oxygen sensors.
0413 Upstream oxygen sensor circuit slow response fault (left bank)
0409 Upstream oxygen sensor circuit slow response fault (right bank)
Basically both your front oxygen sensors are not working. "Slow response" might be fixed by cleaning them up with some carb cleaner (have you had crappy gas in there?), or they may need replacing outright.
The knock sensor code often kicks in with an oxygen sensor fault, so you may want to try addressing the oxygen sensors first and seeing if the knock sensor code goes away.
07-23-2002, 08:09 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 458
Re: Sick Max unidentified ECU codes
Originally posted by SprBlk
This is my first post here because I'm usually able to do a search and find the info I need. I've got a '98 Maxima SE 5spd. 50k. I've had it for about a year and it's never ran real well, it lags when you get on it at all. I figured some running good gas would cure the problem after a few tanks but it hasn't. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran great for a couple days but than went back to it's sickly ways.
Recently the check engine light has been coming on I got the codes and if I did it right they are:
4/13: unidentified 3/4: knock sensor 4/9: unidentified
Pulled the plugs (the 3 front ones) and they looked good.
I reset the check engine light and it has come on again so I'll check the codes and see if they're the same. Does any one have any ideas? Is cleaning the injectors something I can do myself, I've already tried running injector cleaner through the gas (Chevron Techron injector cleaner).
help....
This is my first post here because I'm usually able to do a search and find the info I need. I've got a '98 Maxima SE 5spd. 50k. I've had it for about a year and it's never ran real well, it lags when you get on it at all. I figured some running good gas would cure the problem after a few tanks but it hasn't. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran great for a couple days but than went back to it's sickly ways.
Recently the check engine light has been coming on I got the codes and if I did it right they are:
4/13: unidentified 3/4: knock sensor 4/9: unidentified
Pulled the plugs (the 3 front ones) and they looked good.
I reset the check engine light and it has come on again so I'll check the codes and see if they're the same. Does any one have any ideas? Is cleaning the injectors something I can do myself, I've already tried running injector cleaner through the gas (Chevron Techron injector cleaner).
help....
Well 0413 is Upstream Oxygen Sensor circuit slow response fault (left bank of the engine.
0409 is Upstream oxygen sensor circuit slow responce fault (right bank)
Well my explanation to why your car has always been laggish is cuz the knock sensor was always bad. But when the O2 sensors went and tripped the CEL, the knock sensor code came with it. Since im not the best at solutions, i would say change the Knock sensor- get you power in you engine back. Reset the ECU, the wait for the O2 sensor code to come back...Or replace all of them...
07-23-2002, 08:29 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Canada
Posts: 325
And I just accidentally stumbled upon this from the great DBM:
"Diagnostic Trouble Code 0409 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5. The Engine Control Module determined that the response of the voltage signal from the sensor takes more time than it should. In simple terms, the Oxygen Sensor is still working but it is not doing its job well. Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Bad Oxygen Sensor sensing element
- Bad Oxygen Sensor heater
- Fuel pressure out of spec
- Fuel injector malfunction
- Intake air leaks
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
The Oxygen Sensor sensing element may be tested with an electronic tester made for this purpose, or with an automotive oscilloscope. The Oxygen Sensor heater my be tested with an ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
Follow the wires away from the Oxygen Sensor until you find the nearest electrical connector. Disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are three terminals. They are numbered 1-3, right to left. Be sure to measure the terminals in the connector half which is attached to the Oxygen Sensor, not the one which leads to the Engine Control Unit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
The reading should be infinity (no connection)."
"Diagnostic Trouble Code 0409 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5. The Engine Control Module determined that the response of the voltage signal from the sensor takes more time than it should. In simple terms, the Oxygen Sensor is still working but it is not doing its job well. Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Bad Oxygen Sensor sensing element
- Bad Oxygen Sensor heater
- Fuel pressure out of spec
- Fuel injector malfunction
- Intake air leaks
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
The Oxygen Sensor sensing element may be tested with an electronic tester made for this purpose, or with an automotive oscilloscope. The Oxygen Sensor heater my be tested with an ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
Follow the wires away from the Oxygen Sensor until you find the nearest electrical connector. Disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are three terminals. They are numbered 1-3, right to left. Be sure to measure the terminals in the connector half which is attached to the Oxygen Sensor, not the one which leads to the Engine Control Unit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).
Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
The reading should be infinity (no connection)."
07-23-2002, 08:40 PM
#5
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8
That was fast, I just went out and checked the codes and already have my questions answered. I had all 3 codes again so I have a couple other questions. I went to the vbxmaxima website (like the sticky says), what am I doing wrong that the codes come up unidentified? Where do you guys find the codes? I'm almost afraid to ask an ecu question for fear my thread will be locked and I'll be banned for life...
...anyway, should I start throwing parts at the thing or would I be better off in the long run to take it to the dealer? Maybe the dealer would just start throwing parts at it too, I don't know. I did buy an extended warranty that is supposed to cover electrical components. Past experience with warranties leaves me less than optimistic that my problem will be covered.
davy,
I bought the car used so it could very well have had quicky-mart gas run in it. The fuel filter was'nt too bad when I replaced it but I can't figure out why it ran so well for just a couple days on a new one. I've been running Chevron Supreme or Mid-Grade (we're at 4,000'+)since I've had it.
...anyway, should I start throwing parts at the thing or would I be better off in the long run to take it to the dealer? Maybe the dealer would just start throwing parts at it too, I don't know. I did buy an extended warranty that is supposed to cover electrical components. Past experience with warranties leaves me less than optimistic that my problem will be covered.
davy,
I bought the car used so it could very well have had quicky-mart gas run in it. The fuel filter was'nt too bad when I replaced it but I can't figure out why it ran so well for just a couple days on a new one. I've been running Chevron Supreme or Mid-Grade (we're at 4,000'+)since I've had it.
07-23-2002, 08:48 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 458
Originally posted by SprBlk
That was fast, I just went out and checked the codes and already have my questions answered. I had all 3 codes again so I have a couple other questions. I went to the vbxmaxima website (like the sticky says), what am I doing wrong that the codes come up unidentified? Where do you guys find the codes? I'm almost afraid to ask an ecu question for fear my thread will be locked and I'll be banned for life...
...anyway, should I start throwing parts at the thing or would I be better off in the long run to take it to the dealer? Maybe the dealer would just start throwing parts at it too, I don't know. I did buy an extended warranty that is supposed to cover electrical components. Past experience with warranties leaves me less than optimistic that my problem will be covered.
davy,
I bought the car used so it could very well have had quicky-mart gas run in it. The fuel filter was'nt too bad when I replaced it but I can't figure out why it ran so well for just a couple days on a new one. I've been running Chevron Supreme or Mid-Grade (we're at 4,000'+)since I've had it.
That was fast, I just went out and checked the codes and already have my questions answered. I had all 3 codes again so I have a couple other questions. I went to the vbxmaxima website (like the sticky says), what am I doing wrong that the codes come up unidentified? Where do you guys find the codes? I'm almost afraid to ask an ecu question for fear my thread will be locked and I'll be banned for life...
...anyway, should I start throwing parts at the thing or would I be better off in the long run to take it to the dealer? Maybe the dealer would just start throwing parts at it too, I don't know. I did buy an extended warranty that is supposed to cover electrical components. Past experience with warranties leaves me less than optimistic that my problem will be covered.
davy,
I bought the car used so it could very well have had quicky-mart gas run in it. The fuel filter was'nt too bad when I replaced it but I can't figure out why it ran so well for just a couple days on a new one. I've been running Chevron Supreme or Mid-Grade (we're at 4,000'+)since I've had it.
Well the website thats on the sticky doesnt have ALL the ECU diagnostic trouble codes. And i got mine from my Haynes Repair Manual. You might want to pick one up at an auto parts store. Also there is a Chiltons manual which people say is better, but im doin just fine with my Haynes.
Also if you have a warranty on the vehicle then by all means take it in for the necisary repairs (since its feww and all) but if the dealer says its not covered, then you can change it yourself... Do your self a search, and find out how to change the parts. But i recommend getting a repair manual, instead spending hours finding what you want...
Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ballerchris510
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
9
09-10-2015 09:35 PM