Quick info please? Size of manual tranny drain plug
08-10-2002, 12:11 PM
#1
Quick info please? Size of manual tranny drain plug
Hello, I'm about to go buy a closed ended wrench for the drain plug. I just need to know what size it is before I do.
I'll delete this thread right after I get an answer. Thanks everyone!
I'll delete this thread right after I get an answer. Thanks everyone!
08-10-2002, 01:17 PM
#3
I would suggest using a socket. If my memory serves me it is 12mm, not certain though. A closed ended wrench won't generate enough torque and you risk stripping the plug. Yeah, I know it's really tight down there, so tight that the wrench looks like the only option. What I did was loosen the bolt that holds the black bar that is sitting in the way. Gently nudged the bar out of the way just enough to get at the drain plug with a socket.
DW
DW
08-10-2002, 03:04 PM
#5
After realizing that it will be a pain to torque the thing back together, I'm taking this job to someone else (Turbo95Max).
I really have no convenient place to dispose of the tranny fluid, plus, I didn't it was really worth it to buy some cheap tools when I'm saving up for a big set in the near future.
I really have no convenient place to dispose of the tranny fluid, plus, I didn't it was really worth it to buy some cheap tools when I'm saving up for a big set in the near future.
08-10-2002, 06:36 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,007
That's a good idea
I just did mine today, and let me tell you, if all the *uckin' a55hole idiots on the assembly line didn't overtorque every damn bolt practically to the point of instant seizing, we'd all have less problems. My car just hit the 60K m / 96K km mark, and I began the service myself yesterday (I only had four hours to work, so I had to do the brakes and tranny today).
When trying to remove the bolt, you'll soon realize that there was a STUPID engineering mistake, which means you cannot get a good 6 point socket or a closed/box wrench (perferably 6 point) over the drain plug. Which means 99% of us will be using open ended wrenches. This plug is supposed to be torqued to 18-24 ft. lbs. MY *uckin' *** it was! And let me tell you, it was not stuck from rust/corrosion. The bolt and threads were fine, but the plug was just WAY over torqued for the hardness of the bolt. I managed to get a crescent wrench (basically a 6 point box/closed wrench but with part of one wall cut off, used for things like brake line fittings, and what not) between the bolt and the STUPID *** piece of metal less than an inch away. As it started to round off the bolt, I said *uckit, cut the washer off, relieve the stress, and the bolt should come right off. I ended up using a dremel rotary tool and cutting the steel (not soft copper or aluminum, but steel! C'mon engineers! Use your brains) washer, and a bit of the drain plug flare, then using pliers and a screwdriver to rip the washer off. After that, the bolt came off as it should've.
By now, I had lost TOTAL trust in this bolt and the washer. I ended up going to a machine shop and buying an M12 1.25 pitch bolt (the same diameter (12mm) and thread pitch (1.25)) of the stock drain plug, but was about 2 times the length. I then cut the bolt to size, and voila! The best part is, the bolt I replaced it with is a stronger bolt, and the hex part is MUCH taller, allowing for more contact between bolt and wrench in the future. I also bought M12 copper washers, which are nice and soft, and won't cause the damn bolt to get stuck as easily, and allow for better sealing between the bolt and the transmission casing with much less torque.
All in all, I'm very happy with this change in drain plug.
BTW, for all you guys doing your 60K m, and 96K km service, don't skimp, and you'll be happy you didn't. I'm running NGK Laser Platinums (OEM, but bought from Can Tire for MUCH less), Nissan coolant, Nissan PCV valve, Nissan 300ZX fuel filter, Nissan OEM oil filter (btw, I've been told by a parts guy at my Nissan dealership that the 300ZX oil filter fits on our cars as well, is longer, and should last longer, I haven't seen it, so I can't vouch for him, but it would be interesting to see if it is possible), AMSOIL 5W-30, AMSOIL Series 2000 75W-90, Motul 600 brake fluid in the brakes and the clutch. I took the extra step of running a cheap synthetic gear oil for about 20 minutes to REALLY clean out the tranny before I put the expensive AMSOIL in, I flushed out the entire coolant system twice with water, ran two bottles of Redline SI fuel injector cleaner, I used to run Mobil 1, so I used AMSOIL's engine flush before putting in the AMSOIL, and some other things that I can't remember right now. But man, my car feels like it's had its clock rewound a couple tens of thousands of kms. The car feels like it's lost 300-400 pounds of weight. The shifter shifts with two finger tips. While just going for a fun run and leak down check today, I blasted a latest gen prelude lowered, and with an exhaust and intake (my only mod is a prototype intake I designed and made myself). By about 90km, I had about a car and a half on him, by about 130km (around the 3-4 shift), he started gaining, but not anything noticeable, he shut it down and admitted loss. BTW, I've always loved AMSOIL, and have been running it in my previous baby, a Volvo 850 Turbo religiously. And up until today, my Maxima had never received this loving treatment (just Mobil 1 synthetics). But today, she got the AMSOIL kiss, and she paid me back in spades.
Anyways, just had to rant and rave after all this recent car work.
When trying to remove the bolt, you'll soon realize that there was a STUPID engineering mistake, which means you cannot get a good 6 point socket or a closed/box wrench (perferably 6 point) over the drain plug. Which means 99% of us will be using open ended wrenches. This plug is supposed to be torqued to 18-24 ft. lbs. MY *uckin' *** it was! And let me tell you, it was not stuck from rust/corrosion. The bolt and threads were fine, but the plug was just WAY over torqued for the hardness of the bolt. I managed to get a crescent wrench (basically a 6 point box/closed wrench but with part of one wall cut off, used for things like brake line fittings, and what not) between the bolt and the STUPID *** piece of metal less than an inch away. As it started to round off the bolt, I said *uckit, cut the washer off, relieve the stress, and the bolt should come right off. I ended up using a dremel rotary tool and cutting the steel (not soft copper or aluminum, but steel! C'mon engineers! Use your brains) washer, and a bit of the drain plug flare, then using pliers and a screwdriver to rip the washer off. After that, the bolt came off as it should've.
By now, I had lost TOTAL trust in this bolt and the washer. I ended up going to a machine shop and buying an M12 1.25 pitch bolt (the same diameter (12mm) and thread pitch (1.25)) of the stock drain plug, but was about 2 times the length. I then cut the bolt to size, and voila! The best part is, the bolt I replaced it with is a stronger bolt, and the hex part is MUCH taller, allowing for more contact between bolt and wrench in the future. I also bought M12 copper washers, which are nice and soft, and won't cause the damn bolt to get stuck as easily, and allow for better sealing between the bolt and the transmission casing with much less torque.
All in all, I'm very happy with this change in drain plug.
BTW, for all you guys doing your 60K m, and 96K km service, don't skimp, and you'll be happy you didn't. I'm running NGK Laser Platinums (OEM, but bought from Can Tire for MUCH less), Nissan coolant, Nissan PCV valve, Nissan 300ZX fuel filter, Nissan OEM oil filter (btw, I've been told by a parts guy at my Nissan dealership that the 300ZX oil filter fits on our cars as well, is longer, and should last longer, I haven't seen it, so I can't vouch for him, but it would be interesting to see if it is possible), AMSOIL 5W-30, AMSOIL Series 2000 75W-90, Motul 600 brake fluid in the brakes and the clutch. I took the extra step of running a cheap synthetic gear oil for about 20 minutes to REALLY clean out the tranny before I put the expensive AMSOIL in, I flushed out the entire coolant system twice with water, ran two bottles of Redline SI fuel injector cleaner, I used to run Mobil 1, so I used AMSOIL's engine flush before putting in the AMSOIL, and some other things that I can't remember right now. But man, my car feels like it's had its clock rewound a couple tens of thousands of kms. The car feels like it's lost 300-400 pounds of weight. The shifter shifts with two finger tips. While just going for a fun run and leak down check today, I blasted a latest gen prelude lowered, and with an exhaust and intake (my only mod is a prototype intake I designed and made myself). By about 90km, I had about a car and a half on him, by about 130km (around the 3-4 shift), he started gaining, but not anything noticeable, he shut it down and admitted loss. BTW, I've always loved AMSOIL, and have been running it in my previous baby, a Volvo 850 Turbo religiously. And up until today, my Maxima had never received this loving treatment (just Mobil 1 synthetics). But today, she got the AMSOIL kiss, and she paid me back in spades.
Anyways, just had to rant and rave after all this recent car work.
08-10-2002, 06:51 PM
#7
Re: That's a good idea
Originally posted by Sin
Anyways, just had to rant and rave after all this recent car work.
Anyways, just had to rant and rave after all this recent car work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post