I had a post a while ago about emissions problems. Well I tried putting an Adj. FPR and tuning it down to lean out the car but under load it still wont pass. It actually got worse. But at least the car runs better IMO. Anyways I was wonderin if you had any suggestions or tricks.

 

Find a mechanic thats your friend, talk to him about how much "It would cost to pass your inspection". My mechanic charges me a $100.00.

 

*cough*illegal*cough*

 

Everything is legal if you don't get caught

 

What sucks is taht In california, theres a new law passed that make you go to test only stations. That means you can fail... Tricks to pass are to keep the car hot. Drive around for at least 40 min. yes, 40 min. I drove in traffic for 30 min and still didnt pass. If you have a Y-pipe, might as well take it off. It will raise your HC levels like crazy. My HC levels with y-pipe on was 157 at 15mph test and 55 at 25mph test. With stock Y pipe, the levels were 9 and 8. Another thing you can do if you know how is to retard the timing. My friend with the american honduh (acura) did this and it lowered the HC levels. But doing this raises some other thing... I forgot, probobly CO%. but I have to look that up. Good luck with Smog and take it to some ghetto place.

 

Haha yea, its fully automatic here in Cali, in order for a gas station to be certified for smog inspection, they need to get the smog inspection machine and you have to hook it up to the car, and run the tests, then they use a barcode to scan ure VIN barcode number and it dials into DMV and sends the reports automatically. Anywho, i just got my smog checked a couple weeks ago and i passed WAAAAAAAAAAY below the average

 

Dunno if it will work on a fuel-injected max but these tips used to work for getting old carb'd big blocks to pass....

1) "Dry gas" is your friend. Dump at least a gallon of pure isopropyl alcohol in the tank. Try to only have a few gallons of gas left.

2) Drive the **** out of it right before the test. Lots of sustained high-rev activities. Keep it hot.

3) Drill a few large holes in the exhaust pipe right after the cats. Won't work if they can see/hear it of course. Weld 'em up when you're done.

4) Worked once on a 383 Dodge Hemi that couldn't pass. The old emissions equipment consisted of a simple metal probe that was slipped up the tailpipe. As long as air was coming out it read ok. There were no variable speed tests back then. We actually terminated the real exhaust pipe right after the muffler. The pipe coming out the back was a fake with a trick high-velocity fan with two speed settings that we could manipulate from within the car. It worked. Funny thing was there were still enough HC's, NO and CO in the area from the real exhaust that it showed a few very low readings. The good old days of 7-10 mpg....

-RMB


4)

 

The rt cat sucks at lowering emissions. That's why many later model (97 or 98+) will have the check engine light come on after the install.

 

That didn't work for me in atlanta....

 

I thought the RT Cat kept the same as stock for emmisions?