need input - cv joints need to be replaced??
11-02-2002, 12:59 AM
#1
need input - cv joints need to be replaced??
I have recently noticed a clicking noise when I turn right at slow speeds. I have searched extensively and found that the problem is most likely the cv joint/boot. However, my question is, can I get away with just changing the boots and not both half axles? This is what I was initally planning to do, however, I read a post by daniel martin saying that for higher mileage cars (my max=102k), it would be better to replace both axles, rather than just the boots. 
is it common that if the boot rips and is replaced but the cv joint is not contaminated, that it would fail in the long run?
thanks in advance
is it common that if the boot rips and is replaced but the cv joint is not contaminated, that it would fail in the long run?
thanks in advance
11-02-2002, 02:12 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,208
Re: need input - cv joints need to be replaced??
Originally posted by kj043
I have recently noticed a clicking noise when I turn right at slow speeds. I have searched extensively and found that the problem is most likely the cv joint/boot. However, my question is, can I get away with just changing the boots and not both half axles? This is what I was initally planning to do, however, I read a post by daniel martin saying that for higher mileage cars (my max=102k), it would be better to replace both axles, rather than just the boots.
is it common that if the boot rips and is replaced but the cv joint is not contaminated, that it would fail in the long run?
thanks in advance
I have recently noticed a clicking noise when I turn right at slow speeds. I have searched extensively and found that the problem is most likely the cv joint/boot. However, my question is, can I get away with just changing the boots and not both half axles? This is what I was initally planning to do, however, I read a post by daniel martin saying that for higher mileage cars (my max=102k), it would be better to replace both axles, rather than just the boots.
is it common that if the boot rips and is replaced but the cv joint is not contaminated, that it would fail in the long run?
thanks in advance
11-02-2002, 05:07 AM
#3
To have a shop do it, replacing a boot is $45 for the part about $60 of labor. Total $105. 3 months down the road when the other boot on that axle wears out, you're looking at another $105. If you replace the axle with one from Raxles, your total cost for each side should be $180 and you get new joints as well.
I would find out which side clicks and replace that axle. In the long run, you're much better off doing this than just doing the boot.
I would find out which side clicks and replace that axle. In the long run, you're much better off doing this than just doing the boot.
11-02-2002, 05:41 AM
#4
I would go to http://www.motorvate.ca/ and check out the CV Fitness Checks Section
11-02-2002, 08:03 AM
#5
how long can i go for then?
alright, well i'm not very mechanically experienced, so do you think with chilton or haynes i could get through this? the thing is, i don't think ill have that much time to work on this until im back home in ny for thanksgiving break cause im in the middle of my semester up here in boston. is this something that could be potentially harmful if not taken care of immediately? i was thinking maybe id just take it to a shop, if i have to replace immediately or if the install is going to be too hard. any of you guys did this before? how hard would it be for someone like me? OR if i ordered the parts from raxles and took it to a shop, what can i expect as a labor charge?
11-02-2002, 08:55 AM
#6
I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,588
Re: how long can i go for then?
if it's clicking, ur joint is already fried..... u need the half shaft....www.raxles.com.. somethin like that
11-13-2002, 06:08 PM
#8
I have the clicking noise also, on the passenger side, when I turn left.
I had my car on the lift last week and looked at the boots on that side of the car, and they looked brand new. They were neither cracked nor slipped off.
I am driving 1500 miles to Phoenix next week and 1500 miles back for Thanksgiving.
Will it live? is that even really the problem? I read about the spring noise on motorvate.ca.....
could that be it? It's fairly faint, only when the car is just started up, and only when turning slowly left (like in a parking garage)
Thanks!
IanS
I had my car on the lift last week and looked at the boots on that side of the car, and they looked brand new. They were neither cracked nor slipped off.
I am driving 1500 miles to Phoenix next week and 1500 miles back for Thanksgiving.
Will it live? is that even really the problem? I read about the spring noise on motorvate.ca.....
could that be it? It's fairly faint, only when the car is just started up, and only when turning slowly left (like in a parking garage)
Thanks!
IanS
11-13-2002, 06:26 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 713
Well my boots have been torn since May.......so they can last as long as you are careful...you will damage the joint/axel this way though...I have NO boot left on the left side of my car...very bad...but I'm getting my axles new week so I'll be good then.....
11-14-2002, 10:33 AM
#10
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 325
its uncommon for a cv to "wear out" with less than 120K, IF the boot is good...but it happens. Once the boot tears, its much more cost effective to replace the whole axle with a cheapo from autozone ($80 each) or Raxles.com.....depends on how much you value your car....the extra $20 for Raxles.com is worth it to me.
driving with a worn CV can cause (other than clicking/grinding noises) steering wheel shakes, but has to be really bad before it will catastrophicly fail and strand you butt somewhere....just don't abuse it....
driving with a worn CV can cause (other than clicking/grinding noises) steering wheel shakes, but has to be really bad before it will catastrophicly fail and strand you butt somewhere....just don't abuse it....
11-14-2002, 10:37 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 146
Originally posted by iansw
I have the clicking noise also, on the passenger side, when I turn left.
I had my car on the lift last week and looked at the boots on that side of the car, and they looked brand new. They were neither cracked nor slipped off.
I have the clicking noise also, on the passenger side, when I turn left.
I had my car on the lift last week and looked at the boots on that side of the car, and they looked brand new. They were neither cracked nor slipped off.
I had the exact same problem a month ago, just a little bit of clicking from the right when the car was cold while I was making left turns. When I looked the boot over, it was in great condition - not worn out or torn anywhere. I swapped my right axle anyways, and the noise went away. It's possible to have a bad CV even if the boot is not torn. Do the whole side at once, it only costs a little more but it's worth it.
11-14-2002, 10:46 AM
#12
Originally posted by jbreit
its uncommon for a cv to "wear out" with less than 120K, IF the boot is good...but it happens. Once the boot tears, its much more cost effective to replace the whole axle with a cheapo from autozone ($80 each) or Raxles.com.....depends on how much you value your car....the extra $20 for Raxles.com is worth it to me.
driving with a worn CV can cause (other than clicking/grinding noises) steering wheel shakes, but has to be really bad before it will catastrophicly fail and strand you butt somewhere....just don't abuse it....
its uncommon for a cv to "wear out" with less than 120K, IF the boot is good...but it happens. Once the boot tears, its much more cost effective to replace the whole axle with a cheapo from autozone ($80 each) or Raxles.com.....depends on how much you value your car....the extra $20 for Raxles.com is worth it to me.
driving with a worn CV can cause (other than clicking/grinding noises) steering wheel shakes, but has to be really bad before it will catastrophicly fail and strand you butt somewhere....just don't abuse it....
weird then, when i bought my car from a dealership last year, my driver's side boot was ripped and replaced by them free. a year later, my passenger side one is ripped and i only have 90k miles on it. so is my car uncommon? it's not ripped bad yet but i should have it replaced soon i guess.
11-14-2002, 03:02 PM
#13
Originally posted by Jepht20
weird then, when i bought my car from a dealership last year, my driver's side boot was ripped and replaced by them free. a year later, my passenger side one is ripped and i only have 90k miles on it. so is my car uncommon? it's not ripped bad yet but i should have it replaced soon i guess.
weird then, when i bought my car from a dealership last year, my driver's side boot was ripped and replaced by them free. a year later, my passenger side one is ripped and i only have 90k miles on it. so is my car uncommon? it's not ripped bad yet but i should have it replaced soon i guess.
11-14-2002, 03:20 PM
#14
My car just hit 70,000 miles, and I seem to have a bad joint.
Would the fact that I'm lowered cause this?
If so, then they are going to be able to say that when I take it in and void my warranty.
IanS
Would the fact that I'm lowered cause this?
If so, then they are going to be able to say that when I take it in and void my warranty.
IanS
11-14-2002, 04:42 PM
#18
Originally posted by iansw
Either way - looks like I'm going to have to fix this myself.
IanS
Either way - looks like I'm going to have to fix this myself.
IanS
11-15-2002, 07:07 AM
#19
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 325
a lowered car might have something to do with it. Suspension design guidelines for CV joints is like a minimum of 5 degree angles with teh suspension at its normal ride height...this makes the rollers in the joint work back and forth....hence spreading the "wear" out. if your car is lowered so much that the axles are straight across, all the "wear" would be happening in the center.
but it could be the supercharger too.....
torn boots don't necessarily have to do with miles, more environment (rocks, road salt, sand etc..) and age (drying out) and how much time they spend at high steering angles (turning in a parking lot for example).
My 95 had a hummmm that turned out to be the passenger side support bearing....which comes with Raxles passenger half shaft assembly.
but it could be the supercharger too.....
torn boots don't necessarily have to do with miles, more environment (rocks, road salt, sand etc..) and age (drying out) and how much time they spend at high steering angles (turning in a parking lot for example).
My 95 had a hummmm that turned out to be the passenger side support bearing....which comes with Raxles passenger half shaft assembly.
11-15-2002, 07:41 AM
#20
Originally posted by jbreit
a lowered car might have something to do with it. Suspension design guidelines for CV joints is like a minimum of 5 degree angles with teh suspension at its normal ride height...this makes the rollers in the joint work back and forth....hence spreading the "wear" out. if your car is lowered so much that the axles are straight across, all the "wear" would be happening in the center.
but it could be the supercharger too.....
torn boots don't necessarily have to do with miles, more environment (rocks, road salt, sand etc..) and age (drying out) and how much time they spend at high steering angles (turning in a parking lot for example).
My 95 had a hummmm that turned out to be the passenger side support bearing....which comes with Raxles passenger half shaft assembly.
a lowered car might have something to do with it. Suspension design guidelines for CV joints is like a minimum of 5 degree angles with teh suspension at its normal ride height...this makes the rollers in the joint work back and forth....hence spreading the "wear" out. if your car is lowered so much that the axles are straight across, all the "wear" would be happening in the center.
but it could be the supercharger too.....
torn boots don't necessarily have to do with miles, more environment (rocks, road salt, sand etc..) and age (drying out) and how much time they spend at high steering angles (turning in a parking lot for example).
My 95 had a hummmm that turned out to be the passenger side support bearing....which comes with Raxles passenger half shaft assembly.
No cracks or tears anywhere.
IanS
12-11-2002, 03:15 AM
#23
Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Originally posted by Aaron95SE
I paid 470 for 2 new halfshafts, boots, grease, etc and labor.
Oh and they put my ypipe of for free at the same time.
Aaron
I paid 470 for 2 new halfshafts, boots, grease, etc and labor.
Oh and they put my ypipe of for free at the same time.
Aaron
(Also is it true that on a Maxima you have to replace front and rear pads together?)
Thank you, and excuse my newbness.
12-11-2002, 05:49 AM
#24
Originally posted by Silviagirl79
Hi, I'm new to the forum! I have a 96 Maxima GLE. My boots have been completely ripped for at least 4-5 months now. And this morning for the first time I heard like a grinding sound at slow speeds while turning left out of my apartment complex parking lot. The right shaft doesnt seem to be grinding. But my steering wheeling has been shaking for about 1 month now. I am going to replace both front axles when I have the money but I need to know how much longer you all think I have (or can wait), my car has 99,900 miles on it. Also, I'm always complaining to my husband about how crazy he drives, so could crazy driving (turning at high speeds, quick movements, hard braking, etc) have prematurely damaged the axles and boots and worn out the brakes (had front pads replced at 67,00mi)
(Also is it true that on a Maxima you have to replace front and rear pads together?)
Thank you, and excuse my newbness.
Hi, I'm new to the forum! I have a 96 Maxima GLE. My boots have been completely ripped for at least 4-5 months now. And this morning for the first time I heard like a grinding sound at slow speeds while turning left out of my apartment complex parking lot. The right shaft doesnt seem to be grinding. But my steering wheeling has been shaking for about 1 month now. I am going to replace both front axles when I have the money but I need to know how much longer you all think I have (or can wait), my car has 99,900 miles on it. Also, I'm always complaining to my husband about how crazy he drives, so could crazy driving (turning at high speeds, quick movements, hard braking, etc) have prematurely damaged the axles and boots and worn out the brakes (had front pads replced at 67,00mi)
(Also is it true that on a Maxima you have to replace front and rear pads together?)
Thank you, and excuse my newbness.
$470 is what I paid for everything including labor. Some places may be even cheaper.
Anytime you drive the car hard it adds more wear and tear. Chances are if the boots were not ripped apart you would be fine. With just the outer CV joints bad you could probably drive it as long as you dont beat on it turning and stuff. If they click when you are going straight accelerating then your inner CV joints are bad too.
It would be wise to replace both half-shafts and not just the bad boots or cv joints. I did just the outers on my GTI once and 2 months later the inner joints shelled out.
Your shaky steering is probably the alignment. Also you should inspect/replace brake pads or shoes every 30K or so. None of us do that either
Stock nissan pads suk for spirited driving tho.Get EBC greens, porterfield or hawk pads........longer life and less dust.
And most important, Welcome to the .Org!!
12-11-2002, 06:14 AM
#25
Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Aaron95SE
Well you should get them replaced as soon as possible, but I think most of us understand that its not easy coming up with that kind of money on the spot. Search around for new or rebuilt axles. I know Raxles.com has some.....I think when I priced mine they quoted around 300 or so. I ended up having a place here take care of them.
$470 is what I paid for everything including labor. Some places may be even cheaper.
Anytime you drive the car hard it adds more wear and tear. Chances are if the boots were not ripped apart you would be fine. With just the outer CV joints bad you could probably drive it as long as you dont beat on it turning and stuff. If they click when you are going straight accelerating then your inner CV joints are bad too.
It would be wise to replace both half-shafts and not just the bad boots or cv joints. I did just the outers on my GTI once and 2 months later the inner joints shelled out.
Your shaky steering is probably the alignment. Also you should inspect/replace brake pads or shoes every 30K or so. None of us do that either Stock nissan pads suk for spirited driving tho.
Get EBC greens, porterfield or hawk pads........longer life and less dust.
And most important, Welcome to the .Org!! [/QUOT
Thank you for the warm welcome and prompt response
Well you should get them replaced as soon as possible, but I think most of us understand that its not easy coming up with that kind of money on the spot. Search around for new or rebuilt axles. I know Raxles.com has some.....I think when I priced mine they quoted around 300 or so. I ended up having a place here take care of them.
$470 is what I paid for everything including labor. Some places may be even cheaper.
Anytime you drive the car hard it adds more wear and tear. Chances are if the boots were not ripped apart you would be fine. With just the outer CV joints bad you could probably drive it as long as you dont beat on it turning and stuff. If they click when you are going straight accelerating then your inner CV joints are bad too.
It would be wise to replace both half-shafts and not just the bad boots or cv joints. I did just the outers on my GTI once and 2 months later the inner joints shelled out.
Your shaky steering is probably the alignment. Also you should inspect/replace brake pads or shoes every 30K or so. None of us do that either
Stock nissan pads suk for spirited driving tho.Get EBC greens, porterfield or hawk pads........longer life and less dust.
And most important, Welcome to the .Org!! [/QUOT
Thank you for the warm welcome and prompt response
12-11-2002, 06:37 AM
#26
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 325
a worn CV joint CAN cause a steering wheel shake....if you can grab the axle shaft and wiggle it around in the outer CV joint, that is the cause of your steering wheel shake....i've diagnosed this on half a dozen cars, and is the case on my car currently
4-5 months of a torn boot....yep, they're gone....replace the whole axle with a rebuilt.....local auto zone or advance auto parts will be around $80 a side....Raxles.com is about $180 for the pair and is a good unit from what I have heard here on the forum (i will be finding out soon myself). i would expect labor to be a couple to three hours tops. i wouldn't procrastiate any longer than you have too...eventually the cage in the CV will shatter or a ball bearing will fall out....and worse, you may not get your core charge back for them if they are not rebuildable...which will double the cost of your parts.
cv boot tears are in general caused by old age (the boot dries out and cracks) or by abrasion (rocks and grit getting pinch iin the folds). driving style can have some impact on them...by my car has 101K and was pampered by its previous owner and needs the passenger side half shaft replaced.
front and rear brakes can be done independantly. 67,000 on a set of front brakes is pretty typical for the maxima...perhaps on the low end though....i think I heard one lister had 100K out of fronts, but like 40 or 50K out of the rears. OEM pads are not worth the money, there are better choices out there...raybestos, hawk...etc.
welcome aboard....doesn't be scared to ask questions.
4-5 months of a torn boot....yep, they're gone....replace the whole axle with a rebuilt.....local auto zone or advance auto parts will be around $80 a side....Raxles.com is about $180 for the pair and is a good unit from what I have heard here on the forum (i will be finding out soon myself). i would expect labor to be a couple to three hours tops. i wouldn't procrastiate any longer than you have too...eventually the cage in the CV will shatter or a ball bearing will fall out....and worse, you may not get your core charge back for them if they are not rebuildable...which will double the cost of your parts.
cv boot tears are in general caused by old age (the boot dries out and cracks) or by abrasion (rocks and grit getting pinch iin the folds). driving style can have some impact on them...by my car has 101K and was pampered by its previous owner and needs the passenger side half shaft replaced.
front and rear brakes can be done independantly. 67,000 on a set of front brakes is pretty typical for the maxima...perhaps on the low end though....i think I heard one lister had 100K out of fronts, but like 40 or 50K out of the rears. OEM pads are not worth the money, there are better choices out there...raybestos, hawk...etc.
welcome aboard....doesn't be scared to ask questions.
12-11-2002, 06:38 AM
#27
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 325
a worn CV joint CAN cause a steering wheel shake....if you can grab the axle shaft and wiggle it around in the outer CV joint, that is the cause of your steering wheel shake....i've diagnosed this on half a dozen cars, and is the case on my car currently
4-5 months of a torn boot....yep, they're gone....replace the whole axle with a rebuilt.....local auto zone or advance auto parts will be around $80 a side....Raxles.com is about $180 for the pair and is a good unit from what I have heard here on the forum (i will be finding out soon myself). i would expect labor to be a couple to three hours tops. i wouldn't procrastiate any longer than you have too...eventually the cage in the CV will shatter or a ball bearing will fall out....and worse, you may not get your core charge back for them if they are not rebuildable...which will double the cost of your parts.
cv boot tears are in general caused by old age (the boot dries out and cracks) or by abrasion (rocks and grit getting pinch iin the folds). driving style can have some impact on them...by my car has 101K and was pampered by its previous owner and needs the passenger side half shaft replaced.
front and rear brakes can be done independantly. 67,000 on a set of front brakes is pretty typical for the maxima...perhaps on the low end though....i think I heard one lister had 100K out of fronts, but like 40 or 50K out of the rears. OEM pads are not worth the money, there are better choices out there...raybestos, hawk...etc.
welcome aboard....don't be scared to ask questions.
4-5 months of a torn boot....yep, they're gone....replace the whole axle with a rebuilt.....local auto zone or advance auto parts will be around $80 a side....Raxles.com is about $180 for the pair and is a good unit from what I have heard here on the forum (i will be finding out soon myself). i would expect labor to be a couple to three hours tops. i wouldn't procrastiate any longer than you have too...eventually the cage in the CV will shatter or a ball bearing will fall out....and worse, you may not get your core charge back for them if they are not rebuildable...which will double the cost of your parts.
cv boot tears are in general caused by old age (the boot dries out and cracks) or by abrasion (rocks and grit getting pinch iin the folds). driving style can have some impact on them...by my car has 101K and was pampered by its previous owner and needs the passenger side half shaft replaced.
front and rear brakes can be done independantly. 67,000 on a set of front brakes is pretty typical for the maxima...perhaps on the low end though....i think I heard one lister had 100K out of fronts, but like 40 or 50K out of the rears. OEM pads are not worth the money, there are better choices out there...raybestos, hawk...etc.
welcome aboard....don't be scared to ask questions.
12-11-2002, 07:06 AM
#28
Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Thanks again guys! I went to this website also: http://catalog.nissanpartswholesale.com Are they any good? They said 140.00 (with a 70.00 core charge) for the "axle assembly Front-Left". Does this mean I only buy one, or I have to buy two? Because the site doesnt have right and left options, just Axel Assembly front-left.
Also I noticed today, my front left brake pad is soo low that now there is a scraping sound against the rotar, and my front left rotar is scrachted this just started today. Will I have to get a new rotar now or can they just refinish it? I guess I should get those new brake pads ASAP, eh?
Also I noticed today, my front left brake pad is soo low that now there is a scraping sound against the rotar, and my front left rotar is scrachted this just started today. Will I have to get a new rotar now or can they just refinish it? I guess I should get those new brake pads ASAP, eh?
12-11-2002, 09:24 AM
#29
Originally posted by Silviagirl79
Thanks again guys! I went to this website also: http://catalog.nissanpartswholesale.com Are they any good? They said 140.00 (with a 70.00 core charge) for the "axle assembly Front-Left". Does this mean I only buy one, or I have to buy two? Because the site doesnt have right and left options, just Axel Assembly front-left.
Also I noticed today, my front left brake pad is soo low that now there is a scraping sound against the rotar, and my front left rotar is scrachted this just started today. Will I have to get a new rotar now or can they just refinish it? I guess I should get those new brake pads ASAP, eh?
Thanks again guys! I went to this website also: http://catalog.nissanpartswholesale.com Are they any good? They said 140.00 (with a 70.00 core charge) for the "axle assembly Front-Left". Does this mean I only buy one, or I have to buy two? Because the site doesnt have right and left options, just Axel Assembly front-left.
Also I noticed today, my front left brake pad is soo low that now there is a scraping sound against the rotar, and my front left rotar is scrachted this just started today. Will I have to get a new rotar now or can they just refinish it? I guess I should get those new brake pads ASAP, eh?
Yes you will need two, a RT side and LT side unless you only have a bad cv joint on one side of the car. If you can, I would replace both axles (halfshafts), It could save you additional labor charges and downtime if you replace one and then the other one goes out.
When you order or find them make sure your getting the whole axle w/both inner and outer cv joints.
Yes...you definately need new pads now. They should be able to turn the rotors for you. If you do need a new one, a fellow on here had blank rotor (not slotted or cross-drilled) for around 57$. I think his site is www.eatricezone.com Pads are anywhere from 50 to 90ish depending on brand....type....etc. OEM pads are good, dont get us wrong, but for the type of driving most of us do.....they don't last
Feel free to ask any questions you need too! Also up in the top right of the page you can use the search feature. It is quite helpful. I think most everything asked frequently is in there!
Tons of info from other members as well.
Take care and again Welcome to the .Org
www.maximadriver.com has a helpful "How To" section.
He explains how to change pads out. If you or your hubby feels adventurous it can save ya the labor charges.
12-11-2002, 09:41 AM
#30
Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Originally posted by Aaron95SE
Thats a real good place as well.
Yes you will need two, a RT side and LT side unless you only have a bad cv joint on one side of the car. If you can, I would replace both axles (halfshafts), It could save you additional labor charges and downtime if you replace one and then the other one goes out.
When you order or find them make sure your getting the whole axle w/both inner and outer cv joints.
Yes...you definately need new pads now. They should be able to turn the rotors for you. If you do need a new one, a fellow on here had blank rotor (not slotted or cross-drilled) for around 57$. I think his site is www.eatricezone.com Pads are anywhere from 50 to 90ish depending on brand....type....etc. OEM pads are good, dont get us wrong, but for the type of driving most of us do.....they don't last
Feel free to ask any questions you need too! Also up in the top right of the page you can use the search feature. It is quite helpful. I think most everything asked frequently is in there!
Tons of info from other members as well.
Take care and again Welcome to the .Org
www.maximadriver.com has a helpful "How To" section.
He explains how to change pads out. If you or your hubby feels adventurous it can save ya the labor charges.
Thats a real good place as well.
Yes you will need two, a RT side and LT side unless you only have a bad cv joint on one side of the car. If you can, I would replace both axles (halfshafts), It could save you additional labor charges and downtime if you replace one and then the other one goes out.
When you order or find them make sure your getting the whole axle w/both inner and outer cv joints.
Yes...you definately need new pads now. They should be able to turn the rotors for you. If you do need a new one, a fellow on here had blank rotor (not slotted or cross-drilled) for around 57$. I think his site is www.eatricezone.com Pads are anywhere from 50 to 90ish depending on brand....type....etc. OEM pads are good, dont get us wrong, but for the type of driving most of us do.....they don't last
Feel free to ask any questions you need too! Also up in the top right of the page you can use the search feature. It is quite helpful. I think most everything asked frequently is in there!
Tons of info from other members as well.
Take care and again Welcome to the .Org
www.maximadriver.com has a helpful "How To" section.
He explains how to change pads out. If you or your hubby feels adventurous it can save ya the labor charges.
Thank you again so much, I heard semi-metallic is not very good. Either is ceramic. I think I will get Organic pads.
12-11-2002, 10:08 AM
#31
Update:
I went to the dealership, as I am under warranty, to have them look at it.
None of my CV Boots were torn, but it definately is a bad CV Boot. They blamed it on the car being lowered, and wouldn't cover it under warranty. I don't really et this thinking (If it's not torn, how can you say I broke it?)
I asked them for a quote for the Joint - get this: $650 just in parts for ONE side!!!! And that's ONLY the joint, not the whole axle!
So I called mtrai760 (on this forum) - He's done it before and will help me out - ordered it from Raxles for $185 shipped, we'll put it in next weekend.
IanS
I went to the dealership, as I am under warranty, to have them look at it.
None of my CV Boots were torn, but it definately is a bad CV Boot. They blamed it on the car being lowered, and wouldn't cover it under warranty. I don't really et this thinking (If it's not torn, how can you say I broke it?)
I asked them for a quote for the Joint - get this: $650 just in parts for ONE side!!!! And that's ONLY the joint, not the whole axle!
So I called mtrai760 (on this forum) - He's done it before and will help me out - ordered it from Raxles for $185 shipped, we'll put it in next weekend.
IanS
12-11-2002, 10:15 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 324
I have a billion miles on my 95gle (ok just 203,000) and my boots tore probably around 120K-140K. didnt replace till like 180,000. I think they were around 250 bucks after i got the core chage back. I did both sides (half axles).
As for the shaking in steering. I have this happen to me every time i get 40,000+ miles on the tires and it's time for new tires. I have never had an alignment issue with the car.
As for the shaking in steering. I have this happen to me every time i get 40,000+ miles on the tires and it's time for new tires. I have never had an alignment issue with the car.
12-11-2002, 10:50 AM
#34
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 325
a haynes manual will have a worn CV as one of the possibilities under "steering wheel shake". Yes, tire balance and alignment come first, but in "silvergirls" case i think it clearly indicates a CV as it started shaking in the last month. If the CV is worn bad enough that that shaft gets off center it will be just like a tire being out of dynamic balance....its really easy to check before dumping $100 into having an alignment and tires balanced.
Raxles.com is one of the only places i know that puts on a "new" outer CV, at least they claim such on their web site...otherwise most are just ground to fit a larger bearing. unless you go with Raxles.com, i wouldn't bother with mail order...shipping back to half shafts will cost at least $30, and you will be waiting 6 weeks to get the refund. OEM half shafts i think are $450 a piece (aaanissanparts.com).
Raxles.com is one of the only places i know that puts on a "new" outer CV, at least they claim such on their web site...otherwise most are just ground to fit a larger bearing. unless you go with Raxles.com, i wouldn't bother with mail order...shipping back to half shafts will cost at least $30, and you will be waiting 6 weeks to get the refund. OEM half shafts i think are $450 a piece (aaanissanparts.com).
12-11-2002, 10:55 AM
#35
Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Originally posted by jbreit
a haynes manual will have a worn CV as one of the possibilities under "steering wheel shake". Yes, tire balance and alignment come first, but in "silvergirls" case i think it clearly indicates a CV as it started shaking in the last month. If the CV is worn bad enough that that shaft gets off center it will be just like a tire being out of dynamic balance....its really easy to check before dumping $100 into having an alignment and tires balanced.
Raxles.com is one of the only places i know that puts on a "new" outer CV, at least they claim such on their web site...otherwise most are just ground to fit a larger bearing. unless you go with Raxles.com, i wouldn't bother with mail order...shipping back to half shafts will cost at least $30, and you will be waiting 6 weeks to get the refund. OEM half shafts i think are $450 a piece (aaanissanparts.com).
a haynes manual will have a worn CV as one of the possibilities under "steering wheel shake". Yes, tire balance and alignment come first, but in "silvergirls" case i think it clearly indicates a CV as it started shaking in the last month. If the CV is worn bad enough that that shaft gets off center it will be just like a tire being out of dynamic balance....its really easy to check before dumping $100 into having an alignment and tires balanced.
Raxles.com is one of the only places i know that puts on a "new" outer CV, at least they claim such on their web site...otherwise most are just ground to fit a larger bearing. unless you go with Raxles.com, i wouldn't bother with mail order...shipping back to half shafts will cost at least $30, and you will be waiting 6 weeks to get the refund. OEM half shafts i think are $450 a piece (aaanissanparts.com).
12-11-2002, 12:02 PM
#36
Originally posted by Silviagirl79
Thank you again so much, I heard semi-metallic is not very good. Either is ceramic. I think I will get Organic pads.
Thank you again so much, I heard semi-metallic is not very good. Either is ceramic. I think I will get Organic pads.
when they first came out. I think they are more expensive now tho. I hear Hawk pads are great as well. Thats what Im switching to when I covert to 300ZX front brakes.
Tire rack.com has a good selection of pads too.
12-11-2002, 12:58 PM
#37
Originally posted by nismo2020
add me to the list. left side is torn not clicking. im going to check out that raxle place.
add me to the list. left side is torn not clicking. im going to check out that raxle place.
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