The picture speaks for itself. Actually is alot worse than the pictures look. How am I going to get this out? Its really in there

 

first spray with wd-40 or penetrating oil, let it sit for a few minutes so it'll work into threads, then use a vise grip and get the plug off. get a replacement plug from dealer. Good Luck.

 

i would bring it to a pro and let them do their thing!

goodluck,

Ant

 

Thats the fill plug...I always go down the street and have my car put up on a lift and have them loosin it before I drain it out so Im not stuck in my driveway with no loosin it...and no oil in the tranny

-Matt

 

Wait a min... thats the fill? If so where is the drain? Ohhh boy someone please fill me in!

 

The drain is at the back of the tranny towards the rear of the car on the pass side corner..youll need to use an open ended wrench to get it lose (12mm i think If I remember correctly)...its in a stupid place because its up against the midframe...
slide under the car with right hand towards the pass side..reach up towards the back of the tranny and look...you should see it..its on the side NOT THE BACK of the trans

-matt

 

Good Advice. When this happened on my NX-2000, I had to use a small pipe wrench, and grab the plug on the outside. Presto! It was out in 5 minutes.....

Good Luck!

 

I tried to remove that myself... went out and bought a breaker bar too but it didn't work. I just paid money to have a shop w/ an air-ratchet remove it... then had him tighten it back to spec. I was afraid of ruining the thread too. Good luck... and that IS the fill bolt.

 

The force required to deform the metal (as pictured) puts this seizure well beyond the abilitiy of vice-grips to fix.

If you want to take a crack at this yourself, a pipe-wrench (as MaxVQ suggested) would probably do the trick. It would probably even be worth it for you to buy one for this job.

If you don't have a pipe-wrench, you could try this:

Things you'll need-

1) A replacement tranny plug
2) Liquid-Wrench or other super-penetrant
3) Butane/propane torch
4) 1/2" Breaker bar (a ratchet will not do for this, oh no.)
5) "Expendable" short (2" long or less) 1/2" ratchet extension
6) Masking tape
7) J/B Weld
8) Small wire brush or scrap of sandpaper
9) Brake parts cleaner

Ok, (wringing hands together) here goes:

1) Get front of vehicle supported on ramps or jackstands.

2) Slide under car w/ wire brush or sandpaper in hand. Do your best to remove any surface rust/debris inside the (formerly square) fill-plug recess. When done, spray the inside of the recess with brake parts cleaner to prep the surface & remove any oils/grease. Allow plug to dry thoroughly (2-3 mins)

3) Mix up the J/B Weld according to the directions (use about 1/4-1/3 of each tube)

4) Have your "expendable" short ratchet extension ready, as well as the masking tape.

5) Using a popsicle stick or piece of cardboard, spread the mixed JB Weld into the fill-plug recess until you can insert the ratchet extension into the recess such that any space between the male end of the extension and the recess walls is filled completely with the JB Weld.

6)Now, find a way to hold the extension firmly in place (B creative: bungees, coat hangers, wood scraps, whatever) until the J/B Weld completely cures. It is very important that the extension be as centered as possible, and not leaning (off-axis in any direction) relative to the plug.

7) Mask around the perimeter of the plug/extension shaft to keep the J/B Weld from sagging out of the recess (it WILL drain out partially, unless you do this)

8) Allow to cure for (I think 24 hrs - check the package)

9) After about 12 hours, apply a liquid penetrant to the plug threads & allow to soak in while the J/B weld continues to cure.

10) J/B Weld is now cured. Remove masking tape and supports from the ratchet extension. Have your torch and the breaker bar handy. It's GO-TIME!

11) Pull the hose/wire (can't remember) running next to the fill-plug away from that area - hold out of the way w/ a bungee or rope. (You need to heat that area).

12) Light the torch. Use common sense when working with a torch: don't set yourself, your car, or your house on fire. Ok, you're under the car now. . . Your goal is to heat the area surrounding the threaded fill-hole opening on the tranny bell housing - with the goal of heat-expanding it outward and away from the fill-plug. (This technique is effective at removing seized nuts from bolts & the operating principle is the same).

13) Now, being careful of where the torch is pointed at all times & what is behind the flame-flow, heat the area on the bell-housing surrounding the fill-plug, careful not to hit the plug or the J/B Weld with the flame. Use a slow, circular motion around the outside of the fill opening to expand the metal around the threaded fill-hole. Continue with this for about 5 mins. Don't stop moving the torch - you must hit the entire circumference of the fill-hole as evenly as possible for this to work.

14) While the bell housing is still hot, snap your breaker bar onto the ratchet extension at a workable angle and give it all you've got. If you have a pipe extension to slide over the breaker bar for more leverage, even better. (Remember: counter-clockwise!) Be careful not to burn yourself - the area around the plug should be HOT about now!


Hopefully, you'll get it one way or another. Be sure to put a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plug before re-installing.

Let us know how it goes!

 

To me, it doesn't look like the deepest part of the hole was affected (looking at the pic). It looks like it was stripped because the 1/2" ratchet you used was not inserted deep enough before force was exerted. It even looks like you could still use a 1/2" extension with ratchet to remove the plug. I would definitely order a replacement from the dealer though.

 

My thoughts exactly. Make sure the end of the ratchet is nice and flat, there appears to be enough meat on that plug to grab it.

 

To add to what KWheelzSB said: Immediately after removing the torch, you can hold a candle to the threads. As the case cools slightly, the liquid wax will be sucked into the threads, penetrating deeper than oil will. Now all your threads are lubricated as you try to turn the plug.

 

and if you dont want to do deal with it, go buy a replacement from the dealer take it to a shop and let them loosen it for you. I know that the impact gun has a lot of torque to spin that off in a jiffy.

 

Just buy a new tranny pan...~$60?

 

You must drive an auto. There is no pan on a 5 speed. That's the tranny you're looking at.

Dave

 

Oh..a 5 speed. In that case, drop in a new tranny. This is another prime example of auto ownz.

 

So. . .How'd it go?????

 

 

It's on the side of the transmission bell-housing. Just look for the thing that looks like the picture in the first post - you can't miss it.