brake pad help choosing / install questions
brake pad help choosing / install questions
Hi guys
Well after sitting here at work and spending a good half hour searching around and reading all these posts I think I have decided to go w/ Raybesto Quick Stops. My other option was OEM pads but as of now... all i want are QUIET brakes. I could probably care less about the dusting... altho i probably should but w/ the current semi-metallic pads I have on now, the brake squeeling is horrible. I wouldn't know how OEM pads feel like because I did buy my car used and it had the squeeling pads on em ever since the beginning. Do the OEM's dust alot? I have come across a couple threads that had ppl complaining about squeeling OEM pads so that's why I'm leaning more on getting the Raybestos.
Now that I've finally come upon choosing the Raybestos... I'm now thinking about putting OEM pads on one end and Raybestos on the other. Would it this really make a difference? And if so, should the Raybestos or OEM go up front. Well, I really don't think I would go this route anyways because I wouldn't want to put two different brands... kinda reminds me of tires, always should stay the same on all 4 corners.
As for the install, I am going to do this myself... is motorvate.ca the only place w/ the instructions/pics?? Actually the instructions on that site is for front brake assembly removal but i do get the idea on how to change the pads. The only thing i'm confused about is the rear brakes. Are those harder to take out or require some special method? I only ask because removing the front calipers doens't look too hard because the wheels are turned whereas the rear one's can't obviously.
Oh yeah, and a no0b question... all brake pads are the same sizes for all cars right?
Alright thanks guys. Any feedback, links, advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
Well after sitting here at work and spending a good half hour searching around and reading all these posts I think I have decided to go w/ Raybesto Quick Stops. My other option was OEM pads but as of now... all i want are QUIET brakes. I could probably care less about the dusting... altho i probably should but w/ the current semi-metallic pads I have on now, the brake squeeling is horrible. I wouldn't know how OEM pads feel like because I did buy my car used and it had the squeeling pads on em ever since the beginning. Do the OEM's dust alot? I have come across a couple threads that had ppl complaining about squeeling OEM pads so that's why I'm leaning more on getting the Raybestos.
Now that I've finally come upon choosing the Raybestos... I'm now thinking about putting OEM pads on one end and Raybestos on the other. Would it this really make a difference? And if so, should the Raybestos or OEM go up front. Well, I really don't think I would go this route anyways because I wouldn't want to put two different brands... kinda reminds me of tires, always should stay the same on all 4 corners.
As for the install, I am going to do this myself... is motorvate.ca the only place w/ the instructions/pics?? Actually the instructions on that site is for front brake assembly removal but i do get the idea on how to change the pads. The only thing i'm confused about is the rear brakes. Are those harder to take out or require some special method? I only ask because removing the front calipers doens't look too hard because the wheels are turned whereas the rear one's can't obviously.
Oh yeah, and a no0b question... all brake pads are the same sizes for all cars right?
Alright thanks guys. Any feedback, links, advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
The rears aren't really any more difficult than the fronts. I had to lube the piston boot before I could get the piston compressed with a pair of pliars. The boot had gotten really dry and wouldn't turn along with the piston. Just take your time, you don't really want to find your mistakes when you need to stop
Originally posted by pezking4
The rears aren't really any more difficult than the fronts. I had to lube the piston boot before I could get the piston compressed with a pair of pliars. The boot had gotten really dry and wouldn't turn along with the piston. Just take your time, you don't really want to find your mistakes when you need to stop
The rears aren't really any more difficult than the fronts. I had to lube the piston boot before I could get the piston compressed with a pair of pliars. The boot had gotten really dry and wouldn't turn along with the piston. Just take your time, you don't really want to find your mistakes when you need to stop
so the piston is holding the brakepad in place?
check a FSM, Haynes, Chiltons, motorvate, or chiltons online (http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/chilton...oot/index.html) and you'll find all the info you need
(or search)
(or search)
Dood - you need to buy a Hayne's manual
-to better understand exactly what's up with brakes.
You'll write 20 different posts and get bits and pieces of information along the way that will mostly just confuse you, if you don't already have a clear working knowledge of the components in a braking system. Trust me - the manual is $ well spent.
Also, all brake pads are not the same size, shape, etc., vehicle to vehicle.
Study hard. . .THEN do brakework. Safety-first, ya know?

See also: http://www.maximadriver.com/ (Brake-pad How-2)
You'll write 20 different posts and get bits and pieces of information along the way that will mostly just confuse you, if you don't already have a clear working knowledge of the components in a braking system. Trust me - the manual is $ well spent.
Also, all brake pads are not the same size, shape, etc., vehicle to vehicle.
Study hard. . .THEN do brakework. Safety-first, ya know?

See also: http://www.maximadriver.com/ (Brake-pad How-2)
Re: Dood - you need to buy a Hayne's manual
Originally posted by KWheelzSB
-to better understand exactly what's up with brakes.
You'll write 20 different posts and get bits and pieces of information along the way that will mostly just confuse you, if you don't already have a clear working knowledge of the components in a braking system. Trust me - the manual is $ well spent.
Also, all brake pads are not the same size, shape, etc., vehicle to vehicle.
Study hard. . .THEN do brakework. Safety-first, ya know?
-to better understand exactly what's up with brakes.
You'll write 20 different posts and get bits and pieces of information along the way that will mostly just confuse you, if you don't already have a clear working knowledge of the components in a braking system. Trust me - the manual is $ well spent.
Also, all brake pads are not the same size, shape, etc., vehicle to vehicle.
Study hard. . .THEN do brakework. Safety-first, ya know?
so how about the opinions w/ the raybestos? Based on the experience of ppl w/ these on their cars, should I be ensured they'll be quiet? Thanks alot guys.
I put Raybestos QS pad on my front about 3 weeks ago. Love em.
The only time they make a little squeek is the first few seconds after being parked for a long time. Probably something to do with the winter weather.
The only time they make a little squeek is the first few seconds after being parked for a long time. Probably something to do with the winter weather.
all you really need is the damn tool to push the piston back into the caliper (only on the rear brakes). The tool looks like a little cube and can be bought at your local auto parts store.
The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory.. remove calipers, change pads, put calipers back on. and dont lose those little metal clips, if you have those. Oh yeah and use some freakin anti-squeal goo on the back of the pads.
The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory.. remove calipers, change pads, put calipers back on. and dont lose those little metal clips, if you have those. Oh yeah and use some freakin anti-squeal goo on the back of the pads.
Originally posted by spiff56747
all you really need is the damn tool to push the piston back into the caliper (only on the rear brakes). The tool looks like a little cube and can be bought at your local auto parts store.
The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory.. remove calipers, change pads, put calipers back on. and dont lose those little metal clips, if you have those. Oh yeah and use some freakin anti-squeal goo on the back of the pads.
all you really need is the damn tool to push the piston back into the caliper (only on the rear brakes). The tool looks like a little cube and can be bought at your local auto parts store.
The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory.. remove calipers, change pads, put calipers back on. and dont lose those little metal clips, if you have those. Oh yeah and use some freakin anti-squeal goo on the back of the pads.
As for the OEM pads, I've had absolutely no problems. They seem to dust a little less than other vehicles I've seen. As long as you use new shims (which should come with new pads, or can be bought at Auto Zone) and use Disc Brake Quiet on the backs of the pads, they won't squeal. Mine have never squealed at all. It may have something to do with the rotor also. I have stock rotors. You should have yours resurfaced when doing a brake job if they feel rough or have ridges in them. I resurface mine regardless.
Keep in mind that brakes are the most important part of a car. They aren't hard to do, but make sure you do them right. A Haynes or Chiltons is a very good investment.
Dave
wow thanks for the bundle of info. You know what, I think from reading all these threads, the people who installed my pads probably forgot to install the shims. All the parts i'd ever need would come w/ pads right? Meaning all in the box. Great, thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. wish me luck!
Originally posted by nadir_s
wow thanks for the bundle of info. You know what, I think from reading all these threads, the people who installed my pads probably forgot to install the shims. All the parts i'd ever need would come w/ pads right? Meaning all in the box. Great, thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. wish me luck!
wow thanks for the bundle of info. You know what, I think from reading all these threads, the people who installed my pads probably forgot to install the shims. All the parts i'd ever need would come w/ pads right? Meaning all in the box. Great, thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. wish me luck!
Ask for a shim kit/brake hardware kit.
EDIT: Ok, according to some people here, the Raybestos Q.S. pads come with their own self-adhesive shims. Many pad manufacturers do not provide shims. That's a slight plus for the R.Q.S.'s
Originally posted by nadir_s
wow thanks for the bundle of info. You know what, I think from reading all these threads, the people who installed my pads probably forgot to install the shims. All the parts i'd ever need would come w/ pads right? Meaning all in the box. Great, thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. wish me luck!
wow thanks for the bundle of info. You know what, I think from reading all these threads, the people who installed my pads probably forgot to install the shims. All the parts i'd ever need would come w/ pads right? Meaning all in the box. Great, thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. wish me luck!
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
hey dude
the QS series are good pads, they are quiet and brake pretty good. all my customers that ive installed or sold them to were real happy with them. Keep in mind alot of brake jobs that squeak is due to installation more then the pads, even good pads will squeak if done poorly.
the QS series are good pads, they are quiet and brake pretty good. all my customers that ive installed or sold them to were real happy with them. Keep in mind alot of brake jobs that squeak is due to installation more then the pads, even good pads will squeak if done poorly.
Raybestors QS --- Good choice
Originally posted by nadir_s
wow thanks for the bundle of info. You know what, I think from reading all these threads, the people who installed my pads probably forgot to install the shims. All the parts i'd ever need would come w/ pads right? Meaning all in the box. Great, thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. wish me luck!
wow thanks for the bundle of info. You know what, I think from reading all these threads, the people who installed my pads probably forgot to install the shims. All the parts i'd ever need would come w/ pads right? Meaning all in the box. Great, thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes. wish me luck!
JPMax is right. The Raybestos QS come with the self-adhesive shims. I used the factory shims that came with the car when it was new. I thought that those shims seemed to cover more of the pad than the self-adhesive ones from Raybestos did. But I am sure that either one is fine. I bought the Raybestos QS pads for all 4 wheels but I found that only the back pads needed replacement. This was at 60K. The front pads were only half used. But I have read on here that some people get over 100K on the front pads and that the 5sp is usually easier on the pads than the Autos. As the other folks have said, get the Haynes manual. It will give you great info on all your repairs to you car. It is $14 well spent. Anyways I hope this helps. Good luck!
Originally posted by Dave Holmes
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn the rear piston back in so you don't buy a tool you'll use once every 5 years.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn the rear piston back in so you don't buy a tool you'll use once every 5 years.
I recommend Porterfields every chance I get. Fantastic break pads!
changing brake pad is really easy.
1. take off ur wheel
2. 2 14mms on each caliper's end
3. remove caliper
4. remove brake pad
5. slap the new ones on
6. put back caliper
7. secured 2 14mm bolt
8. put wheel back on
9. test drive
it's the same for front and rear.
if u need help i can help u
1. take off ur wheel
2. 2 14mms on each caliper's end
3. remove caliper
4. remove brake pad
5. slap the new ones on
6. put back caliper
7. secured 2 14mm bolt
8. put wheel back on
9. test drive
it's the same for front and rear.
if u need help i can help u
Originally Posted by happyricefob
changing brake pad is really easy.
1. take off ur wheel
2. 2 14mms on each caliper's end
3. remove caliper
4. remove brake pad
5. slap the new ones on
6. put back caliper
7. secured 2 14mm bolt
8. put wheel back on
9. test drive
it's the same for front and rear.
if u need help i can help u
1. take off ur wheel
2. 2 14mms on each caliper's end
3. remove caliper
4. remove brake pad
5. slap the new ones on
6. put back caliper
7. secured 2 14mm bolt
8. put wheel back on
9. test drive
it's the same for front and rear.
if u need help i can help u

this thread is over a year old lol
Originally Posted by nadir_s
um
this thread is over a year old lol
this thread is over a year old lol
aite back to my own brake problem
Originally Posted by spiff56747
all you really need is the damn tool to push the piston back into the caliper (only on the rear brakes). The tool looks like a little cube and can be bought at your local auto parts store.
The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory.. remove calipers, change pads, put calipers back on. and dont lose those little metal clips, if you have those. Oh yeah and use some freakin anti-squeal goo on the back of the pads.
The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory.. remove calipers, change pads, put calipers back on. and dont lose those little metal clips, if you have those. Oh yeah and use some freakin anti-squeal goo on the back of the pads.
I'm not sure what's up with that cube thing, but I saw it online for $6--it looksl like you attach a ratchet to it or something. Even though it might work, I don't think you'd channel the forces effectively. I have a tool set that cost $32, but somebody told me you can "borrow" the same thing from an autoparts store and you get your deposit back when you return it. It's the same principle as the C-clamp only you fit the adapter into the piston and as you turn it, it will spread the distance between the piston and the housing. The whole idea is the rotation of the piston. I did not have the tool when I did the fronts and that seemed ok with a c-clamp and piece of plywood so as to distribute the force over the piston.
what i got, i said remember that
are the thin metal pieces that fit next to the brake pads the shims? what are the purpose of those things? are they even necessary??
i have to change my rear brakes (rotors, calipers, pads) sometime and i was wondering if i could just leave those out, as well as remove the dust shield? thanks.
i have to change my rear brakes (rotors, calipers, pads) sometime and i was wondering if i could just leave those out, as well as remove the dust shield? thanks.
Originally Posted by aznsap
are the thin metal pieces that fit next to the brake pads the shims? what are the purpose of those things? are they even necessary??
i have to change my rear brakes (rotors, calipers, pads) sometime and i was wondering if i could just leave those out, as well as remove the dust shield? thanks.
i have to change my rear brakes (rotors, calipers, pads) sometime and i was wondering if i could just leave those out, as well as remove the dust shield? thanks.
you need to put anti-squeel paste or whatever the heck (it's like goo). Its supposed to be applied between the shims and the back of the brake pads. They are necessary in order to prevent squeeling.
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