Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Anyone have a how-to for rear brake pad replacement on a 1997 Maxima SE. I've done the front, but the rear looks a bit more complicated. A link to some instructions would be most helpful. Thanks.
-Rob
-Rob
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,024
It's basically the same process only you need to twist the piston to get it back in. Don't force it with a C clamp, it wount move and you'll damage it.
I used a good sized needle nose plier to grap the nubs and turn it clockwise. (to the right)
Make sure the dust cover doesn't get hung up when you turn it.
I used a good sized needle nose plier to grap the nubs and turn it clockwise. (to the right)
Make sure the dust cover doesn't get hung up when you turn it.
not tearing the piston boot...
... I am in the same (brakerebuilding) boat - except I am wanting to do a full rebuild on all four calipers. Anyone know of a site that has a "how to" on caliper rebuilding? When I tried to turn the rear piston in the piston boot got all wound up. Is it connected to the piston? My impression is that it is tight in the bore (caliper) and that it is supposed to allow the caliper to turn when everything is working properly. My (1995) calipers have never been worked on and there may be some corrosion at the piston boot connecting point - I wonder what the insides will look like when I tear them down for a rebuild. I have seen a number of posts suggesting Motul 600 brake fluid - is this the best brake fluid to use? Brake Safely, Mark V.
Re: not tearing the piston boot...
I JUST finished with my rear brakes, it's really easy. Disconnect the two bolts holding the calipers on. Replace pads. You can get a tool at Autozone for twisting the pistons, or you can use the needlenose pliers. I had a REALLY had time turning mine, so I completely disconnected the calipers and carefully took some huge pliers to them. Also, I first removed the piston by twisting it all the way out. I took the rust off it with some derust stuff and very fine sand paper. When I put it back it (after fiddling with the stupid boot for 20 mins because it's tight, and it's not supposed to twist with the cylinder, btw) it screwed very easily. Screw it all the way back, re attach calipers to brakes, and you're done. Probably a good idea to bleed the system while you're at it.
-E
-E
The Haynes manual does an excellent job at describing this process. I had a caliper go on Friday and by the time I was able to fix it had ruined my router. I followed the Haynes manual step by step and it took me less than an hour from taking the wheel off to changing the caliper and router to bleeding the system, back to putting the wheel back on.
Mahk
Mahk
Originally posted by gtr_rider
I'll make one in a little bit
I'll make one in a little bit
hi,
just wondering if you got a chance to make one. if you did, can you point to me where it is located. thanks.
**i checked the faqs and couldn't find it there.
Originally posted by mahk
Oh yea, the tool for turning in the piston from AutoZone makes your life sooo much easier. I do recommend dropping the 10$ for this. It will probably save you from a bloody knuckle or two.
Oh yea, the tool for turning in the piston from AutoZone makes your life sooo much easier. I do recommend dropping the 10$ for this. It will probably save you from a bloody knuckle or two.
If you still need it...
Clicky Clicky
Clicky Clicky
Re: not tearing the piston boot...
Originally posted by MAXIMARK
... I am in the same (brakerebuilding) boat - except I am wanting to do a full rebuild on all four calipers. Anyone know of a site that has a "how to" on caliper rebuilding?
... I am in the same (brakerebuilding) boat - except I am wanting to do a full rebuild on all four calipers. Anyone know of a site that has a "how to" on caliper rebuilding?
Originally posted by mahk
Oh yea, the tool for turning in the piston from AutoZone makes your life sooo much easier. I do recommend dropping the 10$ for this. It will probably save you from a bloody knuckle or two.
Oh yea, the tool for turning in the piston from AutoZone makes your life sooo much easier. I do recommend dropping the 10$ for this. It will probably save you from a bloody knuckle or two.
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