Who has done more then bolt-ons for NA power?
04-06-2003, 07:11 PM
#41
Originally posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
Try this, build up the motor and then get a ECU, Make your car more stable, Suspension, Raise it up a few inches in the back, and lower it in the front, (for better grip) get something that reduces Wheel Hop, The widest Z rated tires you can fit, with steel rims, (the ones that you put hub caps on) cause they are light, Weight reduce the Max, get 3" exhaust with 3" y-pipe and all the other pipes, this has to be an Auto with a Torque Converter, A Valve Body Mod and a Tranny Cooler, Or a Really Really good Stick Driver, Also increase the Rev Limiter to 7500, o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car, If it doesnt run 12's or under, get a SC then you can be running REALLY REALLY low
Try this, build up the motor and then get a ECU, Make your car more stable, Suspension, Raise it up a few inches in the back, and lower it in the front, (for better grip) get something that reduces Wheel Hop, The widest Z rated tires you can fit, with steel rims, (the ones that you put hub caps on) cause they are light, Weight reduce the Max, get 3" exhaust with 3" y-pipe and all the other pipes, this has to be an Auto with a Torque Converter, A Valve Body Mod and a Tranny Cooler, Or a Really Really good Stick Driver, Also increase the Rev Limiter to 7500, o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car, If it doesnt run 12's or under, get a SC then you can be running REALLY REALLY low
04-06-2003, 07:19 PM
#43
Originally posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
Try this, build up the motor and then get a ECU, Make your car more stable, Suspension, Raise it up a few inches in the back, and lower it in the front, (for better grip) get something that reduces Wheel Hop, The widest Z rated tires you can fit, with steel rims, (the ones that you put hub caps on) cause they are light, Weight reduce the Max, get 3" exhaust with 3" y-pipe and all the other pipes, this has to be an Auto with a Torque Converter, A Valve Body Mod and a Tranny Cooler, Or a Really Really good Stick Driver, Also increase the Rev Limiter to 7500, o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car, If it doesnt run 12's or under, get a SC then you can be running REALLY REALLY low
Try this, build up the motor and then get a ECU, Make your car more stable, Suspension, Raise it up a few inches in the back, and lower it in the front, (for better grip) get something that reduces Wheel Hop, The widest Z rated tires you can fit, with steel rims, (the ones that you put hub caps on) cause they are light, Weight reduce the Max, get 3" exhaust with 3" y-pipe and all the other pipes, this has to be an Auto with a Torque Converter, A Valve Body Mod and a Tranny Cooler, Or a Really Really good Stick Driver, Also increase the Rev Limiter to 7500, o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car, If it doesnt run 12's or under, get a SC then you can be running REALLY REALLY low
04-06-2003, 07:19 PM
#44
Originally posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car,
o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car,
VQ38????
No one is doing such a thing. If you're speaking of Matt Pelto, he's just doing a VQ35 hybrid.
04-06-2003, 07:32 PM
#45
Originally posted by SR20DEN
VQ38????
No one is doing such a thing. If you're speaking of Matt Pelto, he's just doing a VQ35 hybrid.
VQ38????
No one is doing such a thing. If you're speaking of Matt Pelto, he's just doing a VQ35 hybrid.
04-06-2003, 07:35 PM
#46
Originally posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
naw man, im talking about that guy who is making his vq30 into a 3.8 liter, just like when you uprade the Rb25 with internals the liters go up and then its a RB30, thats what I like to call it
naw man, im talking about that guy who is making his vq30 into a 3.8 liter, just like when you uprade the Rb25 with internals the liters go up and then its a RB30, thats what I like to call it
04-06-2003, 07:36 PM
#47
All YOUR grammer belong to me
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,400
Originally posted by SR20DEN
VQ38????
No one is doing such a thing. If you're speaking of Matt Pelto, he's just doing a VQ35 hybrid.
VQ38????
No one is doing such a thing. If you're speaking of Matt Pelto, he's just doing a VQ35 hybrid.
I know he is all about the displacement, and I sware he is going to do something...
04-06-2003, 07:42 PM
#48
Originally posted by Craig Mack
I could have sworn Mardigras was going to do this. I should have kept those PM's he sent me. Can't search at the moment so no help there.
I know he is all about the displacement, and I sware he is going to do something...
I could have sworn Mardigras was going to do this. I should have kept those PM's he sent me. Can't search at the moment so no help there.
I know he is all about the displacement, and I sware he is going to do something...
From there you would need a custom made 86.6mm crankshaft to hit 3800cc's. The current 81.4mm crank is probably not too far from the block clearance limit.
04-06-2003, 07:56 PM
#49
Originally posted by VR6RACER
the function makes the form the best, basic and to the point.
the function makes the form the best, basic and to the point.
this is EXACTLY why i love the max, it has potential, and stock is very bearable until i am ready for some building up or FI
04-06-2003, 08:53 PM
#50
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 77
Yea, sorry to bring this back, but it was not my intent, however it can be applicable in tis situation where the talk about potential arises.
The VR6 is a very innovative and well engineered engine, however ti did have problems, like the intake design (meaning the intake on the block). Anyways seeing people have turbo'd it and gotten 1000hp+, and have gotten 228whp on a high compression NA setup, however 250-260whp is achievable with some more money na, people ar ejust beginingto dip into ITB, it wont be long until people in the states have crazy NA power, however people dont like making thier engines life go do Schit when they raise the compression up alot.
But using this as an analogy, not a comparison saying vr6's are better or anything, but using it merely as an example, it means the block you guys have in your max has potential, and it just needs to be explored. Personally I would probably just sell the car and buy a sports car if I wanted to make it so powerful, but then again it would not be a maxima then
and thats the point that it is this car and you did what you did with what you were given, meaning it was an accomplishment.
Eitherway it'll be fun and we'll all enjoy our cars nonetheless.
Keep the updates coming on the NA buildups.
G'night
The VR6 is a very innovative and well engineered engine, however ti did have problems, like the intake design (meaning the intake on the block). Anyways seeing people have turbo'd it and gotten 1000hp+, and have gotten 228whp on a high compression NA setup, however 250-260whp is achievable with some more money na, people ar ejust beginingto dip into ITB, it wont be long until people in the states have crazy NA power, however people dont like making thier engines life go do Schit when they raise the compression up alot.
But using this as an analogy, not a comparison saying vr6's are better or anything, but using it merely as an example, it means the block you guys have in your max has potential, and it just needs to be explored. Personally I would probably just sell the car and buy a sports car if I wanted to make it so powerful, but then again it would not be a maxima then
and thats the point that it is this car and you did what you did with what you were given, meaning it was an accomplishment.Eitherway it'll be fun and we'll all enjoy our cars nonetheless.
Keep the updates coming on the NA buildups.
G'night
04-06-2003, 09:11 PM
#51
Originally posted by Craig Mack
I could have sworn Mardigras was going to do this. I should have kept those PM's he sent me. Can't search at the moment so no help there.
I know he is all about the displacement, and I sware he is going to do something...
I could have sworn Mardigras was going to do this. I should have kept those PM's he sent me. Can't search at the moment so no help there.
I know he is all about the displacement, and I sware he is going to do something...
04-07-2003, 12:13 AM
#52
As far as the VQ30DE goes, I have done the following mods:
I think this is as much as has been done to this motor.
-JWT cams and ECU reprogram.
-9:1 pistons, valve springs, valve retainers from the VQ30DET.
-oil pump from the new 3.5 L motor
-exhaust manifolds opened up by removing 1 lb. of metal from each side.
-Cylinder heads CC'd and gasket matched and ported.
-intake manifold extrude honed and ported and gasket matched
-exhaust manifold gasket matched.
-370 fuel injectors and mass air sensor from 300ZXTT.
-Super charger with mustang impeller and 3.125 pulley.
-Air to water after cooler
-Water injection.
-75 shot of N2O.
-Full 3" exhaust.
-fully built tranny.
I dynoed the other day and hit 340hp and 290 ft lbs of torqe without the N2O. The nitrous wasn't hooked up but I hope to reach 400hp with the nitrous next week!!
I think this is as much as has been done to this motor.
-JWT cams and ECU reprogram.
-9:1 pistons, valve springs, valve retainers from the VQ30DET.
-oil pump from the new 3.5 L motor
-exhaust manifolds opened up by removing 1 lb. of metal from each side.
-Cylinder heads CC'd and gasket matched and ported.
-intake manifold extrude honed and ported and gasket matched
-exhaust manifold gasket matched.
-370 fuel injectors and mass air sensor from 300ZXTT.
-Super charger with mustang impeller and 3.125 pulley.
-Air to water after cooler
-Water injection.
-75 shot of N2O.
-Full 3" exhaust.
-fully built tranny.
I dynoed the other day and hit 340hp and 290 ft lbs of torqe without the N2O. The nitrous wasn't hooked up but I hope to reach 400hp with the nitrous next week!!
04-07-2003, 12:16 AM
#53
Most Perverted Member of the SE-L Club
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,512
Originally posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
Try this, build up the motor and then get a ECU, Make your car more stable, Suspension, Raise it up a few inches in the back, and lower it in the front, (for better grip) get something that reduces Wheel Hop, The widest Z rated tires you can fit, with steel rims, (the ones that you put hub caps on) cause they are light, Weight reduce the Max, get 3" exhaust with 3" y-pipe and all the other pipes, this has to be an Auto with a Torque Converter, A Valve Body Mod and a Tranny Cooler, Or a Really Really good Stick Driver, Also increase the Rev Limiter to 7500, o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car, If it doesnt run 12's or under, get a SC then you can be running REALLY REALLY low
Try this, build up the motor and then get a ECU, Make your car more stable, Suspension, Raise it up a few inches in the back, and lower it in the front, (for better grip) get something that reduces Wheel Hop, The widest Z rated tires you can fit, with steel rims, (the ones that you put hub caps on) cause they are light, Weight reduce the Max, get 3" exhaust with 3" y-pipe and all the other pipes, this has to be an Auto with a Torque Converter, A Valve Body Mod and a Tranny Cooler, Or a Really Really good Stick Driver, Also increase the Rev Limiter to 7500, o also the VQ38 mod that one guy is doing to his car, If it doesnt run 12's or under, get a SC then you can be running REALLY REALLY low
doesen't the ECU raise your rev limiter?
Besides which, we're all forgetting one thing: $$$$$. Sure, if we drove hondas, engine swaps/motor work would be common, but since we drive maxes, everything has to be unique, and being unique costs cash. Take the dude that wants to build custom headers for example. Any other car (integras, civics, crxs, accords, even sentras and 300sx's) and you'll see any part that is OEM can be changed to an aftermarket flashier/more powerful piece. But with the maxes, a lot of things have to be done custom, since there is a very small market for it. Look at cams. The only company that offers aftermarket cams is JWT, and they're f'ing expensive. Now look for cams for a civic: there's tons to choose from, and they're priced affordably. And i know that the topic at hand is turning a 3.0 to a 3.8, which would be unique for any car, not just a simple bolt-on.
I guess my point is that if we had more support in the aftermarket industry, you'd see more people wanting to push the VQ to it's full potential.
that, and i think i'm going to stop posting after drinking too much.
04-07-2003, 04:09 AM
#54
Originally posted by fearthegecko
doesen't the ECU raise your rev limiter?
doesen't the ECU raise your rev limiter?
04-07-2003, 06:58 AM
#55
Originally posted by i30krab
As far as the VQ30DE goes, I have done the following mods:
I think this is as much as has been done to this motor.
-JWT cams and ECU reprogram.
-9:1 pistons, valve springs, valve retainers from the VQ30DET.
-oil pump from the new 3.5 L motor
-exhaust manifolds opened up by removing 1 lb. of metal from each side.
-Cylinder heads CC'd and gasket matched and ported.
-intake manifold extrude honed and ported and gasket matched
-exhaust manifold gasket matched.
-370 fuel injectors and mass air sensor from 300ZXTT.
-Super charger with mustang impeller and 3.125 pulley.
-Air to water after cooler
-Water injection.
-75 shot of N2O.
-Full 3" exhaust.
-fully built tranny.
I dynoed the other day and hit 340hp and 290 ft lbs of torqe without the N2O. The nitrous wasn't hooked up but I hope to reach 400hp with the nitrous next week!!
As far as the VQ30DE goes, I have done the following mods:
I think this is as much as has been done to this motor.
-JWT cams and ECU reprogram.
-9:1 pistons, valve springs, valve retainers from the VQ30DET.
-oil pump from the new 3.5 L motor
-exhaust manifolds opened up by removing 1 lb. of metal from each side.
-Cylinder heads CC'd and gasket matched and ported.
-intake manifold extrude honed and ported and gasket matched
-exhaust manifold gasket matched.
-370 fuel injectors and mass air sensor from 300ZXTT.
-Super charger with mustang impeller and 3.125 pulley.
-Air to water after cooler
-Water injection.
-75 shot of N2O.
-Full 3" exhaust.
-fully built tranny.
I dynoed the other day and hit 340hp and 290 ft lbs of torqe without the N2O. The nitrous wasn't hooked up but I hope to reach 400hp with the nitrous next week!!
04-07-2003, 07:23 AM
#56
Disco Biscuit
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,791
Well, correct me if I'm wrong, but i30krab's motor was built more to handle boost than to create large amounts of N\A power. And since He's running a SC, he will only be able to createso much boost before the blower is maxed out. The 75 shot is definately gonna make things fun........
04-07-2003, 05:12 PM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,383
Originally posted by i30krab
As far as the VQ30DE goes, I have done the following mods:
I think this is as much as has been done to this motor.
-JWT cams and ECU reprogram.
-9:1 pistons, valve springs, valve retainers from the VQ30DET.
-oil pump from the new 3.5 L motor
-exhaust manifolds opened up by removing 1 lb. of metal from each side.
-Cylinder heads CC'd and gasket matched and ported.
-intake manifold extrude honed and ported and gasket matched
-exhaust manifold gasket matched.
-370 fuel injectors and mass air sensor from 300ZXTT.
-Super charger with mustang impeller and 3.125 pulley.
-Air to water after cooler
-Water injection.
-75 shot of N2O.
-Full 3" exhaust.
-fully built tranny.
I dynoed the other day and hit 340hp and 290 ft lbs of torqe without the N2O. The nitrous wasn't hooked up but I hope to reach 400hp with the nitrous next week!!
As far as the VQ30DE goes, I have done the following mods:
I think this is as much as has been done to this motor.
-JWT cams and ECU reprogram.
-9:1 pistons, valve springs, valve retainers from the VQ30DET.
-oil pump from the new 3.5 L motor
-exhaust manifolds opened up by removing 1 lb. of metal from each side.
-Cylinder heads CC'd and gasket matched and ported.
-intake manifold extrude honed and ported and gasket matched
-exhaust manifold gasket matched.
-370 fuel injectors and mass air sensor from 300ZXTT.
-Super charger with mustang impeller and 3.125 pulley.
-Air to water after cooler
-Water injection.
-75 shot of N2O.
-Full 3" exhaust.
-fully built tranny.
I dynoed the other day and hit 340hp and 290 ft lbs of torqe without the N2O. The nitrous wasn't hooked up but I hope to reach 400hp with the nitrous next week!!
04-07-2003, 05:15 PM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,383
Originally posted by krismax
I have the pathy TB on my max also, i have not started the car yet because of other projects. You do not have to strip the car to make it light, for instance the stillin intake bracket is steel i made one out of aluminum. My bracket is 70% lighter, it also looks alot better ,little things add up. The goal for my max is 2500lbs and 250 flywheel HP. Ive got the weight reduction all mapped out,12.9 here i come.
I have the pathy TB on my max also, i have not started the car yet because of other projects. You do not have to strip the car to make it light, for instance the stillin intake bracket is steel i made one out of aluminum. My bracket is 70% lighter, it also looks alot better ,little things add up. The goal for my max is 2500lbs and 250 flywheel HP. Ive got the weight reduction all mapped out,12.9 here i come.
04-07-2003, 05:51 PM
#61
Originally posted by maxmale
how hard was it to incorparate the pathfinder 3.5 tb to the max.
how hard was it to incorparate the pathfinder 3.5 tb to the max.
04-07-2003, 05:56 PM
#62
Originally posted by krismax
Things need to be machined,i could make extra if there is interest. This proves there is no aftermarket support. I will find out on thursday how it feels,and works
Things need to be machined,i could make extra if there is interest. This proves there is no aftermarket support. I will find out on thursday how it feels,and works
I would be interested - if the price is right and it shows gains.
04-07-2003, 06:10 PM
#63
Originally posted by maxmale
man i seriously need to know where you got the cams, pistons, valve springs, and valve retainers. and an estimate of what they cost for each. pleeaassee...
man i seriously need to know where you got the cams, pistons, valve springs, and valve retainers. and an estimate of what they cost for each. pleeaassee...
People get all crazy about the cost of cams for the Maxima, but I think they are very reasonably priced. First off, the Max has 4-count em- FOUR camshafts. Most tuner cars, cars that cams are readily available for, have 2. B series hondas - 2. H Series hondas - 2, K-series hondas - 2, 2jz's-2. BMW I-6's, SR20's - 2, RB motors - 2, 4G63 - 2. You get the picture.
You look at a set of decent cams and you are looking at at LEAST $400 per cam. A set of respected tuner cams like Jun, Spoon, Mugen, etc will run you $600 per cam. Hell STOCK Type-R cams are $325 a piece.
A little math tells you that the Maxima JWT cams are $300 per shaft. That's a steal.
04-07-2003, 06:15 PM
#64
Originally posted by iansw
I would be interested - if the price is right and it shows gains.
I would be interested - if the price is right and it shows gains.
04-07-2003, 06:18 PM
#65
Originally posted by krismax
Didnt mardigras max get 30-35 more at the wheels from it? My car is not put back together yet, prob on thur ,then i will run it sat or sun at the track. Does 90-95 shipped sound fair, thats with three seperate alumanum spacers or plates some hose clamps couple fittings,coupling.get your own gaskets thou.It may be a coulple weeks ,i need to test and refine my setup
Didnt mardigras max get 30-35 more at the wheels from it? My car is not put back together yet, prob on thur ,then i will run it sat or sun at the track. Does 90-95 shipped sound fair, thats with three seperate alumanum spacers or plates some hose clamps couple fittings,coupling.get your own gaskets thou.It may be a coulple weeks ,i need to test and refine my setup
04-07-2003, 07:05 PM
#66
Originally posted by krismax
Didnt mardigras max get 30-35 more at the wheels from it? My car is not put back together yet, prob on thur ,then i will run it sat or sun at the track. Does 90-95 shipped sound fair, thats with three seperate alumanum spacers or plates some hose clamps couple fittings,coupling.get your own gaskets thou.It may be a coulple weeks ,i need to test and refine my setup
Didnt mardigras max get 30-35 more at the wheels from it? My car is not put back together yet, prob on thur ,then i will run it sat or sun at the track. Does 90-95 shipped sound fair, thats with three seperate alumanum spacers or plates some hose clamps couple fittings,coupling.get your own gaskets thou.It may be a coulple weeks ,i need to test and refine my setup
How do you make the butterfly flap bigger? Just use a Pathfinder one, I suppose - but thought I'd ask.
IanS
04-07-2003, 07:31 PM
#67
Originally posted by iansw
SOunds like a decent price if it works.
How do you make the butterfly flap bigger? Just use a Pathfinder one, I suppose - but thought I'd ask.
IanS
SOunds like a decent price if it works.
How do you make the butterfly flap bigger? Just use a Pathfinder one, I suppose - but thought I'd ask.
IanS
04-07-2003, 07:32 PM
#68
Originally posted by krismax
You have to use the entire pathfinder TB, the stock one is taken off and put aside nothing is used from stock TB.That price does not supply the pathfinder TB.
You have to use the entire pathfinder TB, the stock one is taken off and put aside nothing is used from stock TB.That price does not supply the pathfinder TB.
So that is just the adapting plates?
04-07-2003, 11:40 PM
#71
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
12s in a NA 4th gen Maxima? That really shouldn't be terribly hard.
Neal has run a 13.6@101mph with a 1.9 60' on slicks. What else could he do:
1) If neal could pull a low to mid 1.8 60', he'd shed .2 instantly. 2) Pull off the bumper reinforcements and he'd shed another 50lbs. 3) Get a "Dynabatt" battery (60+ degree weahter use only) and he'd shed another 25lbs (Neal, you should consider this).
4) Run draglite skinnies in the rear to reduce drag.
5) New clutch to handle the launches.
6) Spring/Strut blockers in the rear.
With all this, I could easily see 13.2-13.3@101-102mph with a higher 1.8 60' (6000rpms launch and a prayer).
Now tap into the motor:
1) Full catback (he's ordering one) at least .1 and 1mph
2) UDP (it works) at least .1 and 1mph
3) JWT cams with valve springs. Unfortunately NO ONE has dynoed with these alone. I don't know their characteristics, but seeing it's JWT, I'd expect at least 15-20fwhp gained throughout much of the powerband. Chances are these would elevate the powerband to 4500-7500rpms which is a good thing. 8000rpm fuel-cut would be good. Expect a .2-.3 drop in ET and a gain of 2-3mph.
4) Extrude-hone the MEVI and lower intake manifold. While not giving much more peak power, KevenSE proved that this mod fattens up the VQs powerbands (more important than peak power). This alone might be worth a solid .1
5) Pathfinder TB? Results are pending on this one. With the increase in useable RPM with the MEVI/JWT ECU combo, this thing might even show gains with NA.
The mods above should be good for at least .5 seconds and 4mph. Now you're looking at potential 12.8s@105mph.
If you REALLY want to get crazy:
1) Modify your belt to only run the alternator (~2-3hp)
2) Yank the front sway bar (20lbs)
3) Yank the power steering belt (~2-3hp)
Pull everything into the mix and you should have a SOLID and RELIABLE VQ pumping out ~220-230fwhp and ~210-220fwtq that's running on pump gas and a reprogrammed OEM ECU. 12-second performance should be easily attainable with pretty minimal mods when you consider what's really involved. The only thing that's been changed on the motor interally is the cams and valve springs. Everything else is a bolt-on or a weight reduction. I guess it depends on how bad someone wants it and how serious they are.
Dave
Neal has run a 13.6@101mph with a 1.9 60' on slicks. What else could he do:
1) If neal could pull a low to mid 1.8 60', he'd shed .2 instantly. 2) Pull off the bumper reinforcements and he'd shed another 50lbs. 3) Get a "Dynabatt" battery (60+ degree weahter use only) and he'd shed another 25lbs (Neal, you should consider this).
4) Run draglite skinnies in the rear to reduce drag.
5) New clutch to handle the launches.
6) Spring/Strut blockers in the rear.
With all this, I could easily see 13.2-13.3@101-102mph with a higher 1.8 60' (6000rpms launch and a prayer).
Now tap into the motor:
1) Full catback (he's ordering one) at least .1 and 1mph
2) UDP (it works) at least .1 and 1mph
3) JWT cams with valve springs. Unfortunately NO ONE has dynoed with these alone. I don't know their characteristics, but seeing it's JWT, I'd expect at least 15-20fwhp gained throughout much of the powerband. Chances are these would elevate the powerband to 4500-7500rpms which is a good thing. 8000rpm fuel-cut would be good. Expect a .2-.3 drop in ET and a gain of 2-3mph.
4) Extrude-hone the MEVI and lower intake manifold. While not giving much more peak power, KevenSE proved that this mod fattens up the VQs powerbands (more important than peak power). This alone might be worth a solid .1
5) Pathfinder TB? Results are pending on this one. With the increase in useable RPM with the MEVI/JWT ECU combo, this thing might even show gains with NA.
The mods above should be good for at least .5 seconds and 4mph. Now you're looking at potential 12.8s@105mph.
If you REALLY want to get crazy:
1) Modify your belt to only run the alternator (~2-3hp)
2) Yank the front sway bar (20lbs)
3) Yank the power steering belt (~2-3hp)
Pull everything into the mix and you should have a SOLID and RELIABLE VQ pumping out ~220-230fwhp and ~210-220fwtq that's running on pump gas and a reprogrammed OEM ECU. 12-second performance should be easily attainable with pretty minimal mods when you consider what's really involved. The only thing that's been changed on the motor interally is the cams and valve springs. Everything else is a bolt-on or a weight reduction. I guess it depends on how bad someone wants it and how serious they are.
Dave
04-08-2003, 05:52 AM
#72
Originally posted by iansw
What year Pathfinder? MT or Auto? (seems to be a difference on car-part.com)
So that is just the adapting plates?
What year Pathfinder? MT or Auto? (seems to be a difference on car-part.com)
So that is just the adapting plates?
I will only be doing this for 3 or 4 people a month , im not looking to start a business . I doing this for people who care about that little extra HP, and would like this.
04-08-2003, 08:54 AM
#73
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by krismax
I just got a 2001 3.5 TB i didnt think there was a difference?
I will only be doing this for 3 or 4 people a month , im not looking to start a business . I doing this for people who care about that little extra HP, and would like this.
I just got a 2001 3.5 TB i didnt think there was a difference?
I will only be doing this for 3 or 4 people a month , im not looking to start a business . I doing this for people who care about that little extra HP, and would like this.
Dave
04-08-2003, 08:57 AM
#74
Originally posted by krismax
I just got a 2001 3.5 TB i didnt think there was a difference?
I will only be doing this for 3 or 4 people a month , im not looking to start a business . I doing this for people who care about that little extra HP, and would like this.
I just got a 2001 3.5 TB i didnt think there was a difference?
I will only be doing this for 3 or 4 people a month , im not looking to start a business . I doing this for people who care about that little extra HP, and would like this.
That's cool - I'm still interested....I'm wondering if being boosted will show gains on top of what NA would.
04-08-2003, 09:00 AM
#75
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 77
Pull everything into the mix and you should have a SOLID and RELIABLE VQ pumping out ~220-230fwhp and ~210-220fwtq that's running on pump gas and a reprogrammed OEM ECU. 12-second performance should be easily attainable with pretty minimal mods when you consider what's really involved. The only thing that's been changed on the motor interally is the cams and valve springs. Everything else is a bolt-on or a weight reduction. I guess it depends on how bad someone wants it and how serious they are.
Dave [/B]
Dave [/B]
What does 3rd gear top out at in the max, 105mph? Do you need to hit 4th in the 1/4?
Back to class
04-08-2003, 11:12 AM
#76
Originally posted by VR6RACER
Sounds a little easier said then done. I dont doubt a max getting into 12's will take much, but a VEry good "launcher" will be needed. Other then some nice bogarts, a couple hundred lbs removed, 230whp should for surely get you that low with decent trap speed too with the high duration cams giving it a better top end.
What does 3rd gear top out at in the max, 105mph? Do you need to hit 4th in the 1/4?
Back to class
Sounds a little easier said then done. I dont doubt a max getting into 12's will take much, but a VEry good "launcher" will be needed. Other then some nice bogarts, a couple hundred lbs removed, 230whp should for surely get you that low with decent trap speed too with the high duration cams giving it a better top end.
What does 3rd gear top out at in the max, 105mph? Do you need to hit 4th in the 1/4?
Back to class
04-08-2003, 12:05 PM
#77
Originally posted by Nealoc187
I'm doing about 102 at the end of the traps with my RPMs at an indicated 6700-6800 on my slicks. My slicks are taller than stock tires are. On stock tires I can run 3rd to about 107, on slicks it would be an indicated 107, but more like 110mph. Shifting to 4th wont be a problem if I was trapping say 105-106.
I'm doing about 102 at the end of the traps with my RPMs at an indicated 6700-6800 on my slicks. My slicks are taller than stock tires are. On stock tires I can run 3rd to about 107, on slicks it would be an indicated 107, but more like 110mph. Shifting to 4th wont be a problem if I was trapping say 105-106.
04-08-2003, 12:17 PM
#78
Originally posted by nismos14
in stock form is 3rd gear good enough or do we have to shift to 4th b 4 we pass the finish line?
in stock form is 3rd gear good enough or do we have to shift to 4th b 4 we pass the finish line?
04-08-2003, 01:12 PM
#80
Originally posted by Dave B
I guess the big question is have you dynoed prior to installing this throttle body? Many people will demand proof that it works before they buy into it. Not trying to be an a$$, but I can see people asking for it, like me
Dave
I guess the big question is have you dynoed prior to installing this throttle body? Many people will demand proof that it works before they buy into it. Not trying to be an a$$, but I can see people asking for it, like me
Dave
I will probably dyno in May both stock and pathfinder on the same day. I find it funny how people dont think it will do anything ,a NA civic gains 7-8 at the wheels going from about 60mm to 68. How on gods green earth could somebody like neal not at least gain 5-7 fwhp. $200 investment not bad . But i will dyno so we will find out ,and i will test it on a track that goes downhill . And if that fails i'll look at my scan tool and see if lbs per minute (air)change, in different stages of RPM. Chris