ardika

iTrader: (3)

Hi guys,

Have been having the Maxspeed/AGX for close to 1 year now, and as you know it, the front suspension geometry was a bit difficult to set up for normal/street driving.

After a month since installing the Maxspeed, the front values are as follows:

Driver's side camber is -0.6, passenger's side is -1.1, toes are set at +0.05 both sides.

This results in steering wheel has to be "pushed" a little bit to the right due to car veering to the left (passenger's side camber is to blame).

Bought and installed camber bolts in February and I over-corrected it:

Driver's -0.7, passenger's -0.3.

As you might have guessed, the steering wheel has to be pushed a little bit since the car veers to the right.

Went home, tinker with it a little bit and now the setting is:

Driver's -0.7, passenger's -0.8.
Toe corrected to +0.09 for both.

This time, the steering wheel is straight, but I could feel the car is very vulnerable to change of incline of the roads (crown of roads). Like if I am driving the car on a straight highway on the left (passing) lane (where right tires would be a bit higher than my left), I need to steer a bit to the right to compensate. The same thing if I am driving on the right side (steer a bit to the left).

I assume this is normal, but how can you make the Maxima handle like the stock one? I drove my gf's stock SE and it's less susceptible to "crowning".

What is the stock camber settings?

StygianMax

iTrader: (8)

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Camber, in degrees.
-1.00 Minimum
-0.25 Nominal
+0.50 Maximum
+0.75 Maximum left and right difference

REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Camber, in degrees
-1.75 Minimum
-1.00 Nominal
-0.25 Maximum

Look about 1/2 way down this 4th gen FAQ for additional details.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

Thanks StygianMax,

Seems to me that mine is a bit nicer to take corners (-0.7/-0.8), but directional stability would be "not that good".

Hmm....-0.25 eh?

This would not be that "hot" entering the apex, but it would be more stabil going straight.

Such dilemma.

Thank you for pointing this FAQ to me!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by StygianMax
[B]

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Camber, in degrees.
-1.00 Minimum
-0.25 Nominal
+0.50 Maximum
+0.75 Maximum left and right difference

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Your alignemnt specs are just fine.

Crowing is caused by agressive tires. Low profile, 45 series Z rated tires will follow the crown much more then stock tires will.

Your girlfriends probably has a nice highway tire on her car. My Dunlop Sport A2's in stock size don't follow the crown. My Dunlop SP8000 in 235/45/ZR17 will follow the crown and pull the steering wheel pretty hard on really deep ruts.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

Hello Tom,

Hey...I know you will somehow "notice" this post....

My tires are now Blizzak WS-15 225/60/15. My girfriend's are Avid H4 225/50/16.

My Dunlop SP9090 234/45/17 will act exactly like your SP8000.

I guess I just need to decide either the -.7 or -.3. Summer is coming...so I am thinking to keep it the way they are. Now, if we could do something about the weather, it would be nicer (the sp9090 is ready to put back, but we are having pretty heavy snow here in Milwaukee).

Hopefully I could put the 9090 before my next trip in NYC (2 weeks from now).



Thanks Tom!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

You just jogged my memory. When I went back to stock ride height for winter I had my camber set by the shop at -.8 both sides. That was max amount I can get with the play in the bolt holes. I did notice a bit more wonder even with the stock tire back on the car. I went back to the alignment shop about a month later and had them pull the camber back just a hair, I think I'm at -.4 both sides now and the car tracks perfectly.

You might want to tweak that camber just a bit more then have the toe set again. The handling is great at -.8 but the tracking does tend to suffer slightly. The average driver probably wouldn't notice it, guys like you and me will.

ardika

iTrader: (3)

I always know we are different breed.

I remember when you are helping MaxGurl on changing her suspension. I took mine apart 4 times also (one involving an officer telling me that the parking lot of DMV is not suitable for changing suspension on my car).

About that handling though, I usually travel the same road over and over again, each time with a slightly different setup (psi, camber, load) so I definitely notice that.

A friend of mine just drove my car this past weekend and he said he never knew Blizzak could take corner like that. However, he mentioned that my steering is lacking the "on-center" feel.

Ah, the great -.7 camber...

ZeRo MaX

iTrader: (4)

how did u measure the setting so quick?

i'm not an expert at wheel alignment as you can see...

ardika

iTrader: (3)

Zero Max,

The numbers you quoted me is not measured with the alignment machine. However, once you tinker around with the bolts for a while (plus learning to take apart your suspension more than 3 times), you learn quite a bit about alignment.

Oh, hanging out with the mechanic at the alignment shops also helps in figuring out how much is .01 correction (you know, eyeballing alignment).



It's not a virtue really...it just gets to you. Like once you look at a particular bolt and could guess the bolt size (some guys could even know whether the bolt is metric or US).