I have my VI installed but its working backwards. There is vaccum to the actuator before the RPM switch goes off. When the RPM goes off, the actuator gets no vaccum. =( Whats wrong!?

 

sounds like you have the solenoid vacuum backwards.

Vac Line one
vac source - check valve - canister in

Vac Line two
canister out - switched port of solenoid

Vac Line three
switch out to actuator


Sounds like you switched the solenoid ports (2 & 3)


you might also want to indicate which solonoid and cannister you are using and what exactly you are seeing (position of actuator)

 

I think the vaccum switch is broken. No matter how I reverse the tubes, there is vaccum going straight through. This is the GM switch.

 

Bah, after some testing. I think the GM switches require a relay. Power must be given to keep the VI off, then power must be cut to turn the VI on. I think. This sucks.

 

You've wired it wrong. The switched ground from the harlan is not corrected to the right wire. There's nothing wrong with your vacuum switch if the VI is actuation, you've just hooked it up backwards.

 

Here is the thing. When I unplug all the wires from the switch... vaccum still goes through.

 

I have a GM switch.
What is happening is that you have one of the vaccum lines hooked up to the vent. This way when the switch is non activated, the vaccum is passing through the vent and out to the VI. causing the vaccum inlet to act as a vent when the switch is activated.

 

But, there are only two possible holes. One is covered by foam. That is the vent. I don't have anything plugged in there. The silver nipple goes to the vaccum source. And the non covered nipple next to the foam one is connected to the actuator. I'm not the only one with this problem. A-Ron max has the same problem. We got our VIs installed by two different people.

 

well you will not be able to make this work properly with a relay. It "will" work but olny for a finite amount of time. You see the switch will spend 99% of it's time energized, and avter a little while you will burn out the coil in the solenoid.

 

Bah, so I'm going to say the problem is the switch. Where can I get another type?

 

no no...remove the foam...the silver is the vent. the one with the foam and bracket receives the hose from the canister and then the other black fitting goes to the actuator.



EDIT -- included picture of GM with silver venting.

--Paul

 

here is what my GM switch looks like. It is off a '87 S-10
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...9/287228_6.jpg

Can you not use the opening with foam in it? the foam should not effect anything, unless you can not get a hose on it.

 

My switch looks a little different.
http://www.joemutt.com/zumble/VI/VI_install_kit.jpg

 

i have used this switch on mine and another i just installed over the weekend...it works. just remove the foam.

--Paul

 

You're supposed to remove the foam? Plug something in to the foam port? Please give details. The car is still sitting in the garage ready to be worked on. "Delco Remy" switch?

 

yes remove the foam...the hoses go as follows...

-vacuum source to check valve to canister (check valve on napa can is the larger of the two).
-canister to inlet with foam removed.
-other black inlet (common port) to actuator.

the silver inlet is the vent to open air.

--Paul

 

It worked!! Thank you!!! John's illustration on his site was very misleading!! WOOO!!!! Thank you! =)

 

you're welcome, glad to hear you got it working.

--Paul

 

congrats!

 

I still haven't driven it yet with the VI functional. I will tonight though. My RPM switch is mounted in the engine bay so I hope I don't have any RPM switch problems.

 

I just hope I get my harlen switch soon. It's been 1 month now.

 

You don't have a RPM switch? Hey, you can always get a MSD window switch. Just set the upper window to like 8000 rpm or something.