CV Boots Question
CV Boots Question
I've noticed the CV Boots on my 95 Maxima are split and cracked. I don't know much about them, how to fix this, etc, so any information on this would be greatly appreciated.
Has anyone done this and can give me some tips on it? I have access to a garage to do it myself, but if it's something that's better having a "real" mechanic do, I'd like to know.
Thanks!
~Jennie
Has anyone done this and can give me some tips on it? I have access to a garage to do it myself, but if it's something that's better having a "real" mechanic do, I'd like to know.
Thanks!
~Jennie
check this out..ive had the same problem for about a month as im saving up to get that problem fixed...your cracked CV boots is an indication that you need new axles (axles come with new CV boot already on them) you just cant replace the boot since the joint will npt last without the grease for about a day..after that the joint deteriorates no matter what since the cracked boot indicates loss of grease..you need 2 new axles..currently my car makes nice grinding and groaning noise and recently..my car now makes a rattling noise right at the left boot..ill keep you updated on new noises as the joins continue to wear out
btw..welcome to the org..
btw..welcome to the org..
Yesterday I purchased a CV boot kit for my 97 at Napa for 14.98 PN# 5426. It came with directions on how to clean the CV joint with just soapy water. I assume dish soap would work best as it is designed to "take grease out of your way". You need to remove tires, calipers and rotors to access the CV shaft I think. I don't have alot of time to work on my car, I will try to do it this week. Also, the kit comes with new special CV grease and clamps for the boot.
Dunno if I helped you at all, but this is my 1¢
(_8*(l)
Dunno if I helped you at all, but this is my 1¢
(_8*(l)
Thanks for the info, guys. Although I'm not sure I'm happy to hear that I may have to replace my axles.
I have yet to hear any scary noises, and you can still see grease in the boot itself, so I think I'll go with the $14.95 fix first. If I have problems after that, I'll replace the axle (if just the boots don't fix it, I'll need a new one anyway... what have I got to lose?).
Has anyone else had this problem? The more input, the better!
Thanks,
~Jennie
I have yet to hear any scary noises, and you can still see grease in the boot itself, so I think I'll go with the $14.95 fix first. If I have problems after that, I'll replace the axle (if just the boots don't fix it, I'll need a new one anyway... what have I got to lose?).Has anyone else had this problem? The more input, the better!

Thanks,
~Jennie
CV Axle.
I paid $70 for my passenger side cv axle (Pep Boys), and that included returning the core.
I followed these instructions and the job was rather quite easy.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401 (It was primarily for changing cv boots, but is a guide to get the wheel disassembled.)
Though, on page 2 of that url, where it says "Use a large screw driver to pry out the inner CV ". STOP right there. Do not try and pry it out. With my part from Pecker boys, I just removed three 12mm bolts (take off using a 6-7" wrench, no sockets; it's a bit of a pain on the top bolt, but 1/4 turns and 10 minutes later gets it going; I had to keep rotating the wrench), and voila the whole thing just slid right out. The damn haynes manual even suggest using a screwdriver to pry out the cv joint, Which is stupid in this case, since the new part comes with both cv shafts, and only bolting it on is required.
I even tried to pry it off using a screwdriver, but was pretty scared since it wasn't budging. When I went to pep boys, they gave me the the wrong cv shaft (Didn't have a reference as what to remove, doh). When I opened up the wheel, I noticed I didn't have the right CV shaft, but I proceeded anyway. I got stuck on trying to "Pry, and being careful at the same time (oxymoron!)", so I went to Pep Boys, returned the wrong one, got the right cv shaft, and boy did I have a smile on my face when I saw 3 female holes on the shaft. The 3 holes for the 12mm bolts I was talking about.
Hope that helps your budget.
Izzy
I followed these instructions and the job was rather quite easy.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401 (It was primarily for changing cv boots, but is a guide to get the wheel disassembled.)
Though, on page 2 of that url, where it says "Use a large screw driver to pry out the inner CV ". STOP right there. Do not try and pry it out. With my part from Pecker boys, I just removed three 12mm bolts (take off using a 6-7" wrench, no sockets; it's a bit of a pain on the top bolt, but 1/4 turns and 10 minutes later gets it going; I had to keep rotating the wrench), and voila the whole thing just slid right out. The damn haynes manual even suggest using a screwdriver to pry out the cv joint, Which is stupid in this case, since the new part comes with both cv shafts, and only bolting it on is required.
I even tried to pry it off using a screwdriver, but was pretty scared since it wasn't budging. When I went to pep boys, they gave me the the wrong cv shaft (Didn't have a reference as what to remove, doh). When I opened up the wheel, I noticed I didn't have the right CV shaft, but I proceeded anyway. I got stuck on trying to "Pry, and being careful at the same time (oxymoron!)", so I went to Pep Boys, returned the wrong one, got the right cv shaft, and boy did I have a smile on my face when I saw 3 female holes on the shaft. The 3 holes for the 12mm bolts I was talking about.
Hope that helps your budget.
Izzy
I went to a junkyard and got the whole driveaxle for $100. The donor car only has 40000 miles on it. it took me about an hour with the haynes manual.
The haynes manual suggest that if you are replacing the left side axle to first take out the right and the use a large screwdriver to knock out the left side. since I was changing both, it was made a lot easier.
By the way, if you have a cracked cv joint on one side, it is suggested that you change them both. Also, when putting the left sie on, you need to put a little force in order for it to pop back in.
The haynes manual suggest that if you are replacing the left side axle to first take out the right and the use a large screwdriver to knock out the left side. since I was changing both, it was made a lot easier.
By the way, if you have a cracked cv joint on one side, it is suggested that you change them both. Also, when putting the left sie on, you need to put a little force in order for it to pop back in.
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