D1NOnly34

iTrader: (4)

I seem to be having some problems with all this. I went to radioshack and bought a pack of 470k resistors and 22k resistors (they didnt have 47k resistors). I was told that the impedance for the factory KS was 535k-540k ohms. So my thoughts were that I would have one 470k resistor and three 22k resistors, equaling 536k ohms. Well, thats what I did. I wired the resistors in series like i said above, one 470k and three 22k. Then on one side I had a wire to connect into teh harness of teh KS, then the other to connect to teh ground. Before I actually connected everything, I started to think, this doesnt make sense. Basically what we are trying to do is "bypass" the KS, and to do this we are just adding resistors. Now it makes no sense to have a wire connected at one end to the KS and the other end to a ground, because then how would a signal be sent to the ecu to advance the timing when it heard a knock/ping in the engine?? So by connecting the wire with resistors to a ground point.
Am I using the right amount of resistors? the way I have it connecte dnow, is that the wire with resistors that I made is just connected to teh existing wire that was there, because that makes more sense. Let me know guys. Thanks =P

big_al

I think you disconnect KS wire harness and plug the resistors to the side that goes to the ECU/Ground wire. not to the KS

D1NOnly34

iTrader: (4)

I just finished talking to another org member. He told me that I was suppose to disconnect the harness that is on the KS itself, leaving the KS all by itself and not connected to anything. This is beginning to make a little more sense. Now does the original wire stay with that harness? Do i disconnect it? Where do I connect the new wire with the resistors, in the same hole as the original wire? And from there it is grounded right? Maybe it looks something like this:

=====-470k-22k-22k-22k-====[harness on KS itself]
========original wire======[harness on KS itself]

My harness looks like this: [o o] where the left hole is the one with the wire and the right is not available for a connection to be made.

Again KS is not conencted at all anymore, just screwed onto the engine right?

I hope this isnt really confusing, i'm such a n00b.

philly96maxima

maybe this is related...I only use 93 octane, but i seem to notice slight pinging every so often,,not when accelerating hard but bye just accelerating normally...first off I shouldnt even hear pinging with 93 octane..right? and secondly the kk sensor shoulde correct this,shouldnt it?..I am not getting any codes...any input on this? the car is a 96 auto with 120k miles and well maintained,,,one thing the pllatinum plugs have 60K miles on them,,could this be a cause?

2KxSEx

Philly96,

Speaking from personal experience it might be one of your coil packs.

Later

D1NOnly34

iTrader: (4)

I cant belive it, but I am finally 05 05. My car runs wayyyyyy better. I can actually peel out, smooth acceleration at both low and high end, and no fluctuating idling so far.. Car sounds better, so I think I will put my intake back on. I cant belive this actually worked. I took teh car around the block a couple of times and its been 05 05. Now I have a serious question. Say something goes wrong in the fitire (GOD forbid), what will happen? I wont be able to find out will I? Or will I just get the code like normal, but instead of retarded timing my car will run normally?

D1NOnly34

iTrader: (4)

I got another question, how much resistance should we have? Right now I have 536k ohms of resistance (one 470k ohm resistor and three 22k ohm resistors.) I was driving and felt that my idle still "jerks" a little bit, but not as much as before, and my performance has gotten better. I was searching around the older threads and looking that the normal factory specs for the KS is 550k ohms, perhaps those 14k ohms are still causing that slight hesitation at idle? We want these resistors to act like the KS so wouldnt we want them to have teh exact same resistance as the KS too? Just a thought thanks

thnikkamax

iTrader: (2)

hmmm so i take it you only do this "patch" when you have a knock sensor code? Or do you get any gain from doing this to a knock with no code being thrown?

Ninos_Maxima

iTrader: (5)

Need Pics please!!!

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

n e one ever get pics?

MaximaVQ97

iTrader: (4)

if anyone had pics of this process ..it would be greatly appricateed

thanks

-anthony

ch13f

Yeah, if anyone has some pictures of the finished job or could take some that would be really really helpful. It doesn't seem all that difficult but I have absolutly no clue where to begin.

ivelweyz

The resistance of the KS with the car on is different than what it is with the car off. It seems to get cut by 150k with the car running...

s0ber

iTrader: (7)

not all of us are electronically advanced here

Sounds simple enough but I still have no idea where/how/what to plug it into lol

s0ber

iTrader: (7)

okay im gained a little more information but still confused im going to post a graphic to help clear this up....



This would be if I was using 1/2W 1M resisters... part# 271-1134 from radioshack... is this dragram right? and where would I connect the otehr side of the resistor?!

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Disconnect the wiring harness from the KS. Attach one end of the resistor to the signal wire that normally leads to the KS. After you connect one end of the resistor to the KS signal wire, connect the other end of the resistor to ground. The KS will now be totally out of the loop and the ecu will only see the resistor and think you have a good KS. This is for diagnostic purposes only, and it is not advisable to run permanently like this.

s0ber

iTrader: (7)

ok thanks that cleared it up pretty much for me