Need Alignment soon, Please Help!
05-31-2003, 07:18 AM
#1
Need Alignment soon, Please Help!
I installed my KYB/Sprint suspension about a month ago..I will need an alignment soon.. And my question was to the people with Sprint springs or any spring close to the drop of Sprint..Do you need camber bolts to get the camber back to within spec or will it be fine without the bolts?? Help is appreciated. Thanks!
PS: I've heard of people being fine without them but other people needing them...Please help me straighten this out!
PS: I've heard of people being fine without them but other people needing them...Please help me straighten this out!
05-31-2003, 07:33 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 213
Re: Need Alignment soon, Please Help!
Originally posted by ImStockBaby
I installed my KYB/Sprint suspension about a month ago..I will need an alignment soon.. And my question was to the people with Sprint springs or any spring close to the drop of Sprint..Do you need camber bolts to get the camber back to within spec or will it be fine without the bolts?? Help is appreciated. Thanks!
PS: I've heard of people being fine without them but other people needing them...Please help me straighten this out!
I installed my KYB/Sprint suspension about a month ago..I will need an alignment soon.. And my question was to the people with Sprint springs or any spring close to the drop of Sprint..Do you need camber bolts to get the camber back to within spec or will it be fine without the bolts?? Help is appreciated. Thanks!
PS: I've heard of people being fine without them but other people needing them...Please help me straighten this out!
05-31-2003, 07:42 AM
#3
most people do not need them
genepool, you are the first person who i have seen that said the needed them.. most people get them as a "just in case" but they were never needed
genepool, you are the first person who i have seen that said the needed them.. most people get them as a "just in case" but they were never needed
05-31-2003, 07:50 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 408
Since the tie rods don't get taken off the hubs, the toe shouldn't change significantly when the struts are changed. If you are worried about getting enough negative camber, loosen the strut bolts (the ones that connect the struts to the wheel hubs) and put some weight on the outside of the brake rotor by lifting on it with a hydraulic jack. With the pressure applied, tighten the bolts, and make sure they are tight!
This might not make their camber exactly the same, but at least it won't be too far positive, which grinds the outside of the tire off.
I would just recommend this with the stock bolts, as doing it with the 'camber' bolts would be too much.
Good Luck!
This might not make their camber exactly the same, but at least it won't be too far positive, which grinds the outside of the tire off.
I would just recommend this with the stock bolts, as doing it with the 'camber' bolts would be too much.
Good Luck!
05-31-2003, 08:39 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 213
I didn't have a problem with positive camber, it was too negative (1.2). I definitely noticed inside wear of my tires after 3,000 miles. I figured $30 in bolts is cheap insurance for replacing tires that are at least $125 a peace.
05-31-2003, 01:36 PM
#6
Originally posted by n2oMike
Since the tie rods don't get taken off the hubs, the toe shouldn't change significantly when the struts are changed. If you are worried about getting enough negative camber, loosen the strut bolts (the ones that connect the struts to the wheel hubs) and put some weight on the outside of the brake rotor by lifting on it with a hydraulic jack. With the pressure applied, tighten the bolts, and make sure they are tight!
This might not make their camber exactly the same, but at least it won't be too far positive, which grinds the outside of the tire off.
I would just recommend this with the stock bolts, as doing it with the 'camber' bolts would be too much.
Good Luck!
Since the tie rods don't get taken off the hubs, the toe shouldn't change significantly when the struts are changed. If you are worried about getting enough negative camber, loosen the strut bolts (the ones that connect the struts to the wheel hubs) and put some weight on the outside of the brake rotor by lifting on it with a hydraulic jack. With the pressure applied, tighten the bolts, and make sure they are tight!
This might not make their camber exactly the same, but at least it won't be too far positive, which grinds the outside of the tire off.
I would just recommend this with the stock bolts, as doing it with the 'camber' bolts would be too much.
Good Luck!
redmaxpa007: Your car seems about as low as mine, the alignment guys had no trouble with adjusting camber and toe?
06-01-2003, 09:00 AM
#8
you won't need them. I just lowered my car yesterday with the same setup sprint/agx and then I took it to the alignment and didn't need the camber adjusted. But if you want I can sell you a brand new Eibach camber bolts kit.
06-01-2003, 10:13 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 590
Re: Need Alignment soon, Please Help!
Originally posted by ImStockBaby
I installed my KYB/Sprint suspension about a month ago..I will need an alignment soon.. And my question was to the people with Sprint springs or any spring close to the drop of Sprint..Do you need camber bolts to get the camber back to within spec or will it be fine without the bolts?? Help is appreciated. Thanks!
PS: I've heard of people being fine without them but other people needing them...Please help me straighten this out!
I installed my KYB/Sprint suspension about a month ago..I will need an alignment soon.. And my question was to the people with Sprint springs or any spring close to the drop of Sprint..Do you need camber bolts to get the camber back to within spec or will it be fine without the bolts?? Help is appreciated. Thanks!
PS: I've heard of people being fine without them but other people needing them...Please help me straighten this out!
Just get the $40 bolts, install them and let the alignment guys futz with them if you're out of spec. I wish I did, I've got one wheel at -1.7 degrees camber......
Also your toe WILL be out of spec since you dropped it. That needs to be fixed....
-RMB
06-02-2003, 05:58 PM
#10
BAH!@#
Im a little confused, there have been alot of people saying camber bolts are NOT needed and yet in the Haynes manual (Pg. 10-17) says Camber is NOT adjustable, forcing you to get the bolts??
Someone please help, i dont want to spend $30 on bolts and later find out i didnt need them..
The wheel of yours that is out of spec wouldn't happen to be the front passenger side wheel would it?? Because on my car you can tell with the naked eye is has EXTREME negitive camber but the driver side isn't so bad.
Someone please help, i dont want to spend $30 on bolts and later find out i didnt need them..
Just get the $40 bolts, install them and let the alignment guys futz with them if you're out of spec. I wish I did, I've got one wheel at -1.7 degrees camber......
-RMB
-RMB
06-02-2003, 06:09 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 213
Originally posted by optimus310
you won't need them. I just lowered my car yesterday with the same setup sprint/agx and then I took it to the alignment and didn't need the camber adjusted. But if you want I can sell you a brand new Eibach camber bolts kit.
you won't need them. I just lowered my car yesterday with the same setup sprint/agx and then I took it to the alignment and didn't need the camber adjusted. But if you want I can sell you a brand new Eibach camber bolts kit.
06-02-2003, 06:15 PM
#12
Ok i am going to get the bolts..they are only 10 bucks each (pt# 13035420)at www.gmpperformance.com (btw, anyone have any buying experiences with them?) It's a bolt by Ingalls that is adjustable -1 to +1..I think this is what I need. Genepool u did a good job convincing me to buy them now that u mentioned the price of new tires
06-02-2003, 08:21 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 590
Re: BAH!@#
Originally posted by ImStockBaby
Im a little confused, there have been alot of people saying camber bolts are NOT needed and yet in the Haynes manual (Pg. 10-17) says Camber is NOT adjustable, forcing you to get the bolts??
Someone please help, i dont want to spend $30 on bolts and later find out i didnt need them..
The wheel of yours that is out of spec wouldn't happen to be the front passenger side wheel would it?? Because on my car you can tell with the naked eye is has EXTREME negitive camber but the driver side isn't so bad.
Im a little confused, there have been alot of people saying camber bolts are NOT needed and yet in the Haynes manual (Pg. 10-17) says Camber is NOT adjustable, forcing you to get the bolts??
Someone please help, i dont want to spend $30 on bolts and later find out i didnt need them..
The wheel of yours that is out of spec wouldn't happen to be the front passenger side wheel would it?? Because on my car you can tell with the naked eye is has EXTREME negitive camber but the driver side isn't so bad.
-RMB
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