Ok. The dealer i took my car to the other day got on the phone with me and we went over the specifics of my car, the car they spent 15 mins with and turned up my fast-idle screw. Here what ive found out.
My Car also had a compression test by the computer.
Cyl-bank1 -65
Cyl-bank2 -27
Cyl-bank3 -64
Cyl-bank4 -66
Cyl-bank5 -106
Cyl-bank6 -107

Obviously there is something wrong with this situation. Cylinder banks 1 through 4 had very bad comression, Mechanic advisor said this could be due to a vacume leak . The Dealer also Agreeded to Look at this car once again and possibly test for some vacume leaks. I did somewhat tell the dealer i would go farther w/ this $96.00 for 15min charge they did last week so thats the reason they are willing to look at it again for free.

This shows how much power i think some of us are losing due to a rough idle. I wish finding the problem was easier though.

 

Tell them to use a real compression tester (the one that hooks into the spark plug) and test again. That would eliminate the vacuum varible. How is the power? Good? if so, those readings are probably inaccurate

 

Power? eh NO Good, not a bit.

the test came from the computer they put on it. ? How would i find the vacume leak though.?

 

1) tell them to use a spark plug tester to get REAL compression results
2) then after reviewing the results search for the vacuum leak manually or use carb cleaner etc.. to find the leak.

If the power is down and if your compression might be indeed bad, indicating alot of problems(ie.. torched rings).

 

I agree with Jeff. Tell them to stop being lazy and gay and to test it with a REAL compression tester. And afterwards, if the compression is good, then check for vacuum leaks.

 

where can i get one of these REAL compression testers. Can you rent one from say auto-store.

 

You Can buy one for less than $40 and if you can change plugs you can do this. I bought mine from advance and it has a 3" round face and a bleed off button and a sleeve slide disconnect.