Knock sensor (Round 4)
06-25-2003, 09:18 AM
#1
Knock sensor (Round 4)
After installing my intake (weapon-r), I get increased power but the same hesitation as always. For the FIRST TIME since I started checking my ECU, I'm getting an 03-04 (knock sensor) code. I read another post that says the knock sensor doesn't just check for timing, it checks for unmetered air entering the engine as well. Is this true? Will properly installing an intake cause a 03 04 code to be generated? Please advise. Thanks.
06-25-2003, 10:27 AM
#4
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 35
For a fee of $15 I can send you a Knock Sensor bypass. It is a 5 minute instal. The thing is that you will have to run 93 octane all of the time. I have one on my car and it works great, I get knock on 87 octane so I use 93. No probs.
Email me if interested.
KingGSX@hotmail.com
Email me if interested.
KingGSX@hotmail.com
06-25-2003, 01:09 PM
#6
Re: Knock sensor (Round 4)
Originally posted by RichMax
After installing my intake (weapon-r), I get increased power but the same hesitation as always. For the FIRST TIME since I started checking my ECU, I'm getting an 03-04 (knock sensor) code. I read another post that says the knock sensor doesn't just check for timing, it checks for unmetered air entering the engine as well. Is this true? Will properly installing an intake cause a 03 04 code to be generated? Please advise. Thanks.
After installing my intake (weapon-r), I get increased power but the same hesitation as always. For the FIRST TIME since I started checking my ECU, I'm getting an 03-04 (knock sensor) code. I read another post that says the knock sensor doesn't just check for timing, it checks for unmetered air entering the engine as well. Is this true? Will properly installing an intake cause a 03 04 code to be generated? Please advise. Thanks.
In my post, I said NISSAN said it checked unmetered air. Obviously it has nothing to do with the air intake system. thats why i was so pi$$ed off. Nissan will tell you anything they have to in order to not fix your car.
06-25-2003, 03:42 PM
#7
I'm looking for my knock sensor (1999 Maxima GXE) and directly in my line of sight blocking my view of the knock sensor (standing at the driver's side looking towards the intake manifold) there is a bulbous dull gold colored object bolted to the intake manifold. Am I in the right place? if so, can I remove the bulbous object so that I can replace the sensor? If I can remove it, how? Thanks.
06-25-2003, 03:44 PM
#8
www.motorvate.ca -click engine on the left side, then go to KS.
06-25-2003, 03:45 PM
#9
Originally posted by Tim 95 GLE
For a fee of $15 I can send you a Knock Sensor bypass. It is a 5 minute instal. The thing is that you will have to run 93 octane all of the time. I have one on my car and it works great, I get knock on 87 octane so I use 93. No probs.
Email me if interested.
KingGSX@hotmail.com
For a fee of $15 I can send you a Knock Sensor bypass. It is a 5 minute instal. The thing is that you will have to run 93 octane all of the time. I have one on my car and it works great, I get knock on 87 octane so I use 93. No probs.
Email me if interested.
KingGSX@hotmail.com
06-25-2003, 04:03 PM
#10
There is an object present in my car which is NOT in the photos on motorvate.ca- thus my question. It looks stock, but it is completely blocking my view of the knock sensor. It is NOT IN THE PHOTOS ON MOTORVATE. ANyone with a 1999 or newer max have any idea what I'm talking about? It's about the size of a very small tennis ball and appears to be mounted on a bracket which is also not in the photos for the ks writeup.
06-25-2003, 05:41 PM
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
It is unlikely that your intake caused the knock sensor to go bad. It is however possible that if you caused your engine to run really rough so that it was shaking at idle or running either due to the fact you forgot to hook up your MAF or an air leak in your intake manifold, that you could have aggravated it to failure.
The shop manual says to pull the intake manifold. I managed to squeeze my hand down there (prepare for cuts and bleeding) and managed to replace it in 15 minutes. Do not drop the new sensor cos they go bad very easily. I dropped the old one which was only marginally failing to begin with and it just when open circuit. The best thing to do before you go through all that and spending over $100 is to measure the terminal resitance. I can't remember how exactly I did it though I think there is somewhere higher up on the harness. If it is a large resistance, then it is failing. I can't remember the spec but the Haynes manual has it. It IS likely to be the knock sensor itself though.
The shop manual says to pull the intake manifold. I managed to squeeze my hand down there (prepare for cuts and bleeding) and managed to replace it in 15 minutes. Do not drop the new sensor cos they go bad very easily. I dropped the old one which was only marginally failing to begin with and it just when open circuit. The best thing to do before you go through all that and spending over $100 is to measure the terminal resitance. I can't remember how exactly I did it though I think there is somewhere higher up on the harness. If it is a large resistance, then it is failing. I can't remember the spec but the Haynes manual has it. It IS likely to be the knock sensor itself though.
06-25-2003, 05:59 PM
#12
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
It's very likely your intake is causing the KS code.
Intake = More air flow
More air flow = More power from increased air/fuel mixture.
Increased air/fuel mixture in your combustion chamber = more heat, more possibility of detonation because you are now pushing your engine harder.
Detonation = Ping and knock
Now apply this to a 90 degree day and you have a perfect reason for your engine to ping under hard accelleration. Summer time is when your more prone to engine ping. The KS is there to stop that from happening. Just because your getting the KS code doesn't mean there's anything wrong with your car. It's just experiancing some ping under a hot, heavy load. The KS is doing what it's supposed to do. Stop that from happening and causing damage to your engine.
The KS code, 03-04 is set when the sensor detects ping and knock and generates a signal outside of it's acceptable voltage "safe" range. It does not mean your KS is bad. Your timing is only momentarally set back for protection, but only while that signal is present from your KS. It does not keep your timing retarded for any length of time at all. The code is there in that case to alert you that your car indeed pings.
Intake = More air flow
More air flow = More power from increased air/fuel mixture.
Increased air/fuel mixture in your combustion chamber = more heat, more possibility of detonation because you are now pushing your engine harder.
Detonation = Ping and knock
Now apply this to a 90 degree day and you have a perfect reason for your engine to ping under hard accelleration. Summer time is when your more prone to engine ping. The KS is there to stop that from happening. Just because your getting the KS code doesn't mean there's anything wrong with your car. It's just experiancing some ping under a hot, heavy load. The KS is doing what it's supposed to do. Stop that from happening and causing damage to your engine.
The KS code, 03-04 is set when the sensor detects ping and knock and generates a signal outside of it's acceptable voltage "safe" range. It does not mean your KS is bad. Your timing is only momentarally set back for protection, but only while that signal is present from your KS. It does not keep your timing retarded for any length of time at all. The code is there in that case to alert you that your car indeed pings.
06-25-2003, 07:12 PM
#13
Thanks thus far. Here is what I can tell you for certain:
Intake has been installed for 1 1/2 weeks.
Gas Mileage, which was already not too good (300 miles/tank for 80%city 20% highway driving, occasional racing red light to red light
)
is now a bit worse (280 miles/tank, same conditions) I would have figured the ECU would have adjusted to the increased air flow by now. However, I am on my second tank with the intake and mileage is looking to be about the same horrible 280 miles/tank. I DO get hesitation.
Among my recent codes:
right front heated O2 sensor which I cleared (has not appeared again)
Cylinder 6 misfire (cleared, has not appeared again)
14 06 (Undefined)
Knock sensor
All the above codes have been cleared.
Betond that, there is definetly something in my engine bay not shown in any of the Haynes manuals, (or in any of your own pics of your own engine bays, for that matter, including the motorvate.ca write-up) Again, it is a small, tennis ball-sized object connected to a mechanism which moves a lot like the trottle opener under the hood. It's definitely there, and I haven't seen it on any of you guys' photos. It blocks my view of the knock sensor, and all physical access (Unless you have a pipe cleaner and are satisfied with touching something you can't see). I'm loooking for someone with a 99.5+ Max- they may know what I'm talking about.
Intake has been installed for 1 1/2 weeks.
Gas Mileage, which was already not too good (300 miles/tank for 80%city 20% highway driving, occasional racing red light to red light
)is now a bit worse (280 miles/tank, same conditions) I would have figured the ECU would have adjusted to the increased air flow by now. However, I am on my second tank with the intake and mileage is looking to be about the same horrible 280 miles/tank. I DO get hesitation.
Among my recent codes:
right front heated O2 sensor which I cleared (has not appeared again)
Cylinder 6 misfire (cleared, has not appeared again)
14 06 (Undefined)
Knock sensor
All the above codes have been cleared.
Betond that, there is definetly something in my engine bay not shown in any of the Haynes manuals, (or in any of your own pics of your own engine bays, for that matter, including the motorvate.ca write-up) Again, it is a small, tennis ball-sized object connected to a mechanism which moves a lot like the trottle opener under the hood. It's definitely there, and I haven't seen it on any of you guys' photos. It blocks my view of the knock sensor, and all physical access (Unless you have a pipe cleaner and are satisfied with touching something you can't see). I'm loooking for someone with a 99.5+ Max- they may know what I'm talking about.
07-12-2003, 12:39 PM
#14
Dyno plot says I have the most area under the Administrator curve
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,060
Originally posted by RichMax
I'm loooking for someone with a 99.5+ Max- they may know what I'm talking about.
I'm loooking for someone with a 99.5+ Max- they may know what I'm talking about.
Yeah I've got a 1999 and I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. Bulbous thingy about a half tennis ball shape/size and is completely blocking the view of and access to the KS. This bulbous thingy isn't in ANY pictures: Motorvate.ca, SkippyMax (or is it SkippyNet), and it's not in the Haynes manual either, which references the 95 Maxima.
Do you have a Cali-spec? (4 O2 sensors?)
I do, and this bulb thing-a-ma-jig seems to have lines running from the extra 02 sensors into some other junk (which is also not in the other pictures that you have to get out of the way also. So if you have a 1999 Max, and possibly a Cali-spec with this Bulb thingy that is in the way, you either have to get all of this extra garbage out of the way too, or remove the upper intake manifold, or both.
On cars like this, the KS replacement is definitely NOT a 15 minute job.
I'm up at my parent's place in PA now (big driveway, garage, lots o tools) and it felt pretty weak all the way up from the DC area. Cleaned up the grounds to the sensor (referenced at motorvate.ca) and that seemed to help a little. Took a test drive after that and checked ignition advance on my OBD-II scanner and it was a TON better and more responsive than previously after ground cleaning, so that seemed to help. Still getting the 0304 KS code though, even after clearning, so it looks like the sensor is definitely going bad, but not completely dead yet. I was hoping it was just the grounds, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Gonna have to replace the sensor too, and deal with all of this extra crap that's in the way.
My dad is old-school and doesn't trust himself with all of these new electronics and sensor doo-dads, and our family mechanic (brilliant guy) is busy this weekend, so I'm just gonna hold off on replacing it and just rig up the bypass resistor. I at least found the KS sub-harnass connector in the Haynes manual - that hasn't changed!!! lol You either put a 470k or 550k ohm resistor across this thing (I forget which) and that will simulate a 100% working knock sensor. So I'll just bypass her until I can get home again when our mech engineer family mechanic friend is free and we can do it the right way.
07-12-2003, 06:14 PM
#15
Originally posted by SteVTEC
Yeah I've got a 1999 and I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. Bulbous thingy about a half tennis ball shape/size and is completely blocking the view of and access to the KS. This bulbous thingy isn't in ANY pictures: Motorvate.ca, SkippyMax (or is it SkippyNet), and it's not in the Haynes manual either, which references the 95 Maxima.
Do you have a Cali-spec? (4 O2 sensors?)
I do, and this bulb thing-a-ma-jig seems to have lines running from the extra 02 sensors into some other junk (which is also not in the other pictures that you have to get out of the way also. So if you have a 1999 Max, and possibly a Cali-spec with this Bulb thingy that is in the way, you either have to get all of this extra garbage out of the way too, or remove the upper intake manifold, or both.
On cars like this, the KS replacement is definitely NOT a 15 minute job.
I'm up at my parent's place in PA now (big driveway, garage, lots o tools) and it felt pretty weak all the way up from the DC area. Cleaned up the grounds to the sensor (referenced at motorvate.ca) and that seemed to help a little. Took a test drive after that and checked ignition advance on my OBD-II scanner and it was a TON better and more responsive than previously after ground cleaning, so that seemed to help. Still getting the 0304 KS code though, even after clearning, so it looks like the sensor is definitely going bad, but not completely dead yet. I was hoping it was just the grounds, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Gonna have to replace the sensor too, and deal with all of this extra crap that's in the way.
My dad is old-school and doesn't trust himself with all of these new electronics and sensor doo-dads, and our family mechanic (brilliant guy) is busy this weekend, so I'm just gonna hold off on replacing it and just rig up the bypass resistor. I at least found the KS sub-harnass connector in the Haynes manual - that hasn't changed!!! lol You either put a 470k or 550k ohm resistor across this thing (I forget which) and that will simulate a 100% working knock sensor. So I'll just bypass her until I can get home again when our mech engineer family mechanic friend is free and we can do it the right way.
Yeah I've got a 1999 and I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. Bulbous thingy about a half tennis ball shape/size and is completely blocking the view of and access to the KS. This bulbous thingy isn't in ANY pictures: Motorvate.ca, SkippyMax (or is it SkippyNet), and it's not in the Haynes manual either, which references the 95 Maxima.
Do you have a Cali-spec? (4 O2 sensors?)
I do, and this bulb thing-a-ma-jig seems to have lines running from the extra 02 sensors into some other junk (which is also not in the other pictures that you have to get out of the way also. So if you have a 1999 Max, and possibly a Cali-spec with this Bulb thingy that is in the way, you either have to get all of this extra garbage out of the way too, or remove the upper intake manifold, or both.
On cars like this, the KS replacement is definitely NOT a 15 minute job.
I'm up at my parent's place in PA now (big driveway, garage, lots o tools) and it felt pretty weak all the way up from the DC area. Cleaned up the grounds to the sensor (referenced at motorvate.ca) and that seemed to help a little. Took a test drive after that and checked ignition advance on my OBD-II scanner and it was a TON better and more responsive than previously after ground cleaning, so that seemed to help. Still getting the 0304 KS code though, even after clearning, so it looks like the sensor is definitely going bad, but not completely dead yet. I was hoping it was just the grounds, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Gonna have to replace the sensor too, and deal with all of this extra crap that's in the way.
My dad is old-school and doesn't trust himself with all of these new electronics and sensor doo-dads, and our family mechanic (brilliant guy) is busy this weekend, so I'm just gonna hold off on replacing it and just rig up the bypass resistor. I at least found the KS sub-harnass connector in the Haynes manual - that hasn't changed!!! lol You either put a 470k or 550k ohm resistor across this thing (I forget which) and that will simulate a 100% working knock sensor. So I'll just bypass her until I can get home again when our mech engineer family mechanic friend is free and we can do it the right way.
07-12-2003, 09:21 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 866
Originally posted by RichMax
Thanks thus far. Here is what I can tell you for certain:
Intake has been installed for 1 1/2 weeks.
Gas Mileage, which was already not too good (300 miles/tank for 80%city 20% highway driving, occasional racing red light to red light)
is now a bit worse (280 miles/tank, same conditions) I would have figured the ECU would have adjusted to the increased air flow by now. However, I am on my second tank with the intake and mileage is looking to be about the same horrible 280 miles/tank. I DO get hesitation.
Among my recent codes:
right front heated O2 sensor which I cleared (has not appeared again)
Cylinder 6 misfire (cleared, has not appeared again)
14 06 (Undefined)
Knock sensor
All the above codes have been cleared.
Betond that, there is definetly something in my engine bay not shown in any of the Haynes manuals, (or in any of your own pics of your own engine bays, for that matter, including the motorvate.ca write-up) Again, it is a small, tennis ball-sized object connected to a mechanism which moves a lot like the trottle opener under the hood. It's definitely there, and I haven't seen it on any of you guys' photos. It blocks my view of the knock sensor, and all physical access (Unless you have a pipe cleaner and are satisfied with touching something you can't see). I'm loooking for someone with a 99.5+ Max- they may know what I'm talking about.
Thanks thus far. Here is what I can tell you for certain:
Intake has been installed for 1 1/2 weeks.
Gas Mileage, which was already not too good (300 miles/tank for 80%city 20% highway driving, occasional racing red light to red light
)is now a bit worse (280 miles/tank, same conditions) I would have figured the ECU would have adjusted to the increased air flow by now. However, I am on my second tank with the intake and mileage is looking to be about the same horrible 280 miles/tank. I DO get hesitation.
Among my recent codes:
right front heated O2 sensor which I cleared (has not appeared again)
Cylinder 6 misfire (cleared, has not appeared again)
14 06 (Undefined)
Knock sensor
All the above codes have been cleared.
Betond that, there is definetly something in my engine bay not shown in any of the Haynes manuals, (or in any of your own pics of your own engine bays, for that matter, including the motorvate.ca write-up) Again, it is a small, tennis ball-sized object connected to a mechanism which moves a lot like the trottle opener under the hood. It's definitely there, and I haven't seen it on any of you guys' photos. It blocks my view of the knock sensor, and all physical access (Unless you have a pipe cleaner and are satisfied with touching something you can't see). I'm loooking for someone with a 99.5+ Max- they may know what I'm talking about.
For your knock sensor, test it as described in the Haynes manual. There is also a write up on here by Daniel B Martin about it. Good stuff, and easy to do. This could save you a lot of headache (and blood from the stumps you used to call hands before a knock sensor change). Going off memory, if resistance is infinite or very high, KS is bad. Also, check the connection (only one wire to a knock sensor), and along the harness.
Just guessing here, but couldn't the unidentified thing you're describing be the swirl valve or whatever it's called on 99's? I think njmaxseltd had posted something previously about it (someone did a mod to bypass it).
Dave
07-13-2003, 08:32 AM
#18
Originally posted by mAxPwEr4Us
I have a 95GXE and my KS have been bad for almost 5 months now... i have the money to buy new KS, but i wanna know if its worth it or should i just get the that guy is selling for $15
I have a 95GXE and my KS have been bad for almost 5 months now... i have the money to buy new KS, but i wanna know if its worth it or should i just get the that guy is selling for $15
Scenario 1- LEts say you install the resistor, and your girlfriend drives your car. She puts mid-grade in your car, and you now have a VERY good chance of getting engine damage from MULTIPLE engine knocks.
Scenario 2- you replace your knock sensor with a resistor without knowing whether or not your engine is actually knocking. In checking my own car, I found an ignition coil was ruined and one of my spark plugs has been literally DRENCHED in fuel every time I drive. Had I replaced my knock sensor with something that never returned an error code to allow the engine computer to correct the problem,I'd have been screwed.
I bought a knock sensor I haven't even opened because my California-spec car will take a bit more effort to replace a knock sensor. I can sell that to you. IF YOU ARE CERTAIN THAT YOU WILL NOT BE GETTING ENGINE KNOCKING for any reason, replace your bad ks with a resistor. Just know that your engine will have NO WAY of knowing whether it is knocking.
07-13-2003, 08:42 AM
#19
I dont know if I can say you are right or wrong, you see, I'm having the same problems, all I'm getting is the Knock Sensor Code, no other codes at all. And because the KS is being triggered, its sending signals to my ECU to retard the timing, which is why my car is acting like crap.
I tested the KS with a DMM, and its fine, read 550k ohms like its suppose to. So I know that the KS is working fine, but something in my engine is causing the pinging/knocking.
I tried the resistor "mod", and believe it or not ti did work. Used basically the same amount oh kohms of resistance and my car ran way better. I did not get a code (remember its a ghost code, so I never got a CEL), and everything improved. The reason why I took it off was because I was afraid of the pinging/knocking that the KS was detecting before, but I have yet to find out what it is.
I wish I knew what it was. I know that the KS is working, butr I dont know hot to check the voltage that the KS sends to teh ECU, because thats how the signal is sent. Anyways, all ignition coils are fine (they were all checked), I have a new fuel filter, bout to change the oil, bout to change the PCV valve, and just recently cleaned my IACV. I plan on taking my whole upper intake manifold off this weekend to thoroughly clean it, and while its off get to teh EGR system as well.
I tested the KS with a DMM, and its fine, read 550k ohms like its suppose to. So I know that the KS is working fine, but something in my engine is causing the pinging/knocking.
I tried the resistor "mod", and believe it or not ti did work. Used basically the same amount oh kohms of resistance and my car ran way better. I did not get a code (remember its a ghost code, so I never got a CEL), and everything improved. The reason why I took it off was because I was afraid of the pinging/knocking that the KS was detecting before, but I have yet to find out what it is.
I wish I knew what it was. I know that the KS is working, butr I dont know hot to check the voltage that the KS sends to teh ECU, because thats how the signal is sent. Anyways, all ignition coils are fine (they were all checked), I have a new fuel filter, bout to change the oil, bout to change the PCV valve, and just recently cleaned my IACV. I plan on taking my whole upper intake manifold off this weekend to thoroughly clean it, and while its off get to teh EGR system as well.
07-13-2003, 11:42 AM
#20
Originally posted by D1NOnly34
I tried the resistor "mod", and believe it or not ti did work. Used basically the same amount oh kohms of resistance and my car ran way better. I did not get a code (remember its a ghost code, so I never got a CEL), and everything improved.
I tried the resistor "mod", and believe it or not ti did work. Used basically the same amount oh kohms of resistance and my car ran way better. I did not get a code (remember its a ghost code, so I never got a CEL), and everything improved.
I wish I knew what it was. I know that the KS is working, butr I dont know hot to check the voltage that the KS sends to teh ECU, because thats how the signal is sent.
I feel sorry for all you Cali spec guys
Next time you're trying to tell someone without a Cali spec about the bulb show them a MEVI picture. The bulb looks the same and attaches to vacuum the same (I believe).-hype
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