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Knock sensor (Round 5)

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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 03:00 PM
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Knock sensor (Round 5)

Anyone able to detail how a resistor should be wired to the knock sensor connector on the electrical harness? I'm assuming one end goes to the negative, and one to the positve.
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 03:01 PM
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r u tryin to replace the knock sensor with a resistor?
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 03:05 PM
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Yep...
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 03:11 PM
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do u already have the resistor? what kind are u using?
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 03:14 PM
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470kOhm+ 2X 47kOhm The wire tests at 555.6 kOhms of resistance. You done this before?
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 03:26 PM
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nope but i looked into it, didnt get much info, which i was dissappointed in, i might have do this though bc my ks seems to be finished
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 04:40 PM
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I just did it and will make a larger post in a second... I have one of the newest 30 DE-K engines out there, so some people's engines might be in worse shape. I felt extra power from the minute I started the car... It does seem to shudder a littl bit.. but I hear no knocking or pinging. The drawback is that I don't know how knocking/pinging sounds... I'm now getting 0505 codes as well (no error present)..... and so far am loving it....
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 05:19 PM
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cool!! the shuddering could be knock, might want to up the resistance a bit... or should it be lowered? hmmm please let us know how u did it pics if possible
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 05:52 PM
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my method was simple- I've seen it detailed once elsewhere...
I soldered the resistors one after the other into a length of 3 inches. I unplugged the female knock sensor connector from the male one, and plugged the resistor into the tterminals of the knock sensor cable. I'll try and have pics tomorrow, but the end result leaves the plug-in harness (then end connected directly to the knock sensor) connected to nothing. The female knock sensor connector should have one end of the resistor wire plugged into each hole (where it normally would have been connected to the knock senor harness via the two prongs inside it). Still checking for codes....
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 05:58 PM
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By the way.. keep in mind that upping the resistance on the bypass has no effect on engine knock at all. The reistance affects what the ECU "sees" and the higher it is the worse (no resistance AND infinite resistance trigger an 0304 and retarded timing) So the resistor only "blinds" the engine to knocking (or a bad knock sensor) Both of which are fine if you have no engine knock (I don't, I just get the code all the time, even after just STARTING the car....
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 07:38 PM
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jeez, well cool! pics would be great thanx again!
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 11:25 PM
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maybe you are getting the MIL light JUST after you start the car since the code has been stored in the ECU from a previous time which set it off. I think it was something like 40 complete drive cycles before the ECU tests again to see if the defect is still there (even if it knows its still there), and may store the code again (triggering the light) for another 40 cycles until the thing is fixed.
Old Jul 19, 2003 | 01:37 PM
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any pics or a writeup yet? thanx
Old Jul 20, 2003 | 01:51 PM
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i bypassed mine today 1 470k and 2 39k resistors, what was the color code onthe 470k? yellow violet yellow? i think that was it and the 39k was orange white orange, n e ways power is back and i was happpyyyyy drivin today, anyone have any ideas on the long term reliability of the bypass?
Old Jul 20, 2003 | 02:55 PM
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details plz
Old Jul 20, 2003 | 03:18 PM
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its so easy wire the three resistors in series and then disconnect the harness and get the ends of the resistors in the ends of the harness that is dangling, not the one connected to the ks, and poof ur set
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