DIY alignment
09-23-2003, 07:41 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 89
DIY alignment
So I lowered (Maxspeed) my 95 SE awhile ago but did'nt get
an alignment done then as my tires were dead anyway. I just
got new wheels and tires so an alignment was in order. I have
the FSM and noted there is a procedure to measure toe-in with
only a pencil and tape measure and rolling the car forward.
Actually this procedure is well known and has been around
since day one. In the past I have used another method using
a home-made jig, but it is awkward with a large margin of error.
Then, the other day, I'm in CostCo and see a 18" carpenters
level with a laser for $29 CDN. The light bulb goes on, and I
immediately see how this level would make a DIY toe-in
adjustment easy. So, briefly, here's what I did.
Hold level horizontal across outer edge of wheel rim and project
laser forward to a long stick placed horizontally directly in
front of the car. Mark that spot on the stick and go to the other
wheel. Project the beam forward and mark that spot on the stick
(the marks will now be about 6 feet apart). Now move the stick
to a spot some distance in front of the car (I used 16 feet).
With the level on the first wheel again, move the stick sideways
until the beam lines up with the first mark. Go to the other
side and mark the laser spot. Measure the distance between the
2 marks from the second wheel. Using trig and the value from the
FSM, I calculated the distance needed to be about 0.5" @16 Feet.
It was then a simple task to turn the tie rod ends to get the
desired toe-in.
I drove the car and repeated the measurement several times to
check for consistancy and it appears to be repeatable.
I was planning on a professional alignment anyway to reassure
me that my method was sound so I had that done. After the shop
alignment, I measured again and found they had set it to 0.8"
toe-in using my setup. I believe my method gets the toe-in to
within the range specified by the FSM.
Now, I can do my own toe-in with minimal hassle. I also
adjusted my camber (due to drop) but that's another story.
Sorry this is so long, but I thought there might be some
interest. Reply to this thread if you want more info.
an alignment done then as my tires were dead anyway. I just
got new wheels and tires so an alignment was in order. I have
the FSM and noted there is a procedure to measure toe-in with
only a pencil and tape measure and rolling the car forward.
Actually this procedure is well known and has been around
since day one. In the past I have used another method using
a home-made jig, but it is awkward with a large margin of error.
Then, the other day, I'm in CostCo and see a 18" carpenters
level with a laser for $29 CDN. The light bulb goes on, and I
immediately see how this level would make a DIY toe-in
adjustment easy. So, briefly, here's what I did.
Hold level horizontal across outer edge of wheel rim and project
laser forward to a long stick placed horizontally directly in
front of the car. Mark that spot on the stick and go to the other
wheel. Project the beam forward and mark that spot on the stick
(the marks will now be about 6 feet apart). Now move the stick
to a spot some distance in front of the car (I used 16 feet).
With the level on the first wheel again, move the stick sideways
until the beam lines up with the first mark. Go to the other
side and mark the laser spot. Measure the distance between the
2 marks from the second wheel. Using trig and the value from the
FSM, I calculated the distance needed to be about 0.5" @16 Feet.
It was then a simple task to turn the tie rod ends to get the
desired toe-in.
I drove the car and repeated the measurement several times to
check for consistancy and it appears to be repeatable.
I was planning on a professional alignment anyway to reassure
me that my method was sound so I had that done. After the shop
alignment, I measured again and found they had set it to 0.8"
toe-in using my setup. I believe my method gets the toe-in to
within the range specified by the FSM.
Now, I can do my own toe-in with minimal hassle. I also
adjusted my camber (due to drop) but that's another story.
Sorry this is so long, but I thought there might be some
interest. Reply to this thread if you want more info.
09-23-2003, 07:48 PM
#2
U wanna try me young boy?
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
As long as the weight of the car was on the tires when you did this, I would say it's pretty good.
You may also want to roll the car 1/2 turn of the front wheels forward and repeat the measurement to ensure there is no variation at the same distance to the stick (at 16 feet the laser points should be exactly the same distance apart before and after you roll the car 2 feet forward. This will help diagnose/eliminate bent wheel problems.)
Also make sure the level contacts the wheels not the tires.
You may also want to roll the car 1/2 turn of the front wheels forward and repeat the measurement to ensure there is no variation at the same distance to the stick (at 16 feet the laser points should be exactly the same distance apart before and after you roll the car 2 feet forward. This will help diagnose/eliminate bent wheel problems.)
Also make sure the level contacts the wheels not the tires.
09-23-2003, 08:12 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by Scruit
As long as the weight of the car was on the tires when you did this, I would say it's pretty good.
You may also want to roll the car 1/2 turn of the front wheels forward and repeat the measurement to ensure there is no variation at the same distance to the stick (at 16 feet the laser points should be exactly the same distance apart before and after you roll the car 2 feet forward. This will help diagnose/eliminate bent wheel problems.)
Also make sure the level contacts the wheels not the tires.
You may also want to roll the car 1/2 turn of the front wheels forward and repeat the measurement to ensure there is no variation at the same distance to the stick (at 16 feet the laser points should be exactly the same distance apart before and after you roll the car 2 feet forward. This will help diagnose/eliminate bent wheel problems.)
Also make sure the level contacts the wheels not the tires.
of the tires weren't in the way. Also had to verify that the level/laser
itself was aligned. With 2 people, it could be done fairly quickly as well.
I did the adjustment with the car on the ground. There was just enough
room to feel where to put the wrenches while laying beside the car.
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